Valve cover oil leak

Hello I have an oil leak from the valve cover gasket. This is not a small leak. It tends to leave a puddle of oil on the floor. I changed the gasket over the winter and I ran it in the garage for a little while and I had no problem. I took the bike out of storage and did a test run for about 4 blocks. When i got back the leak was back. It looks like the gasket was forced out on the corner. This is exactly what happened last year and why I replaced it. It is almost like there was a build up of pressure under the valve cover that pushed the gasket out.
What I am asking is if any one has seen this before and what the reason may be?
Just for some bike info. The bike is a 1985 xj700 maxim

 

What method are using to install the gasket? From what I've read, it's best to attatch the gasket to the cover using gasket sealant, then coat the bottom of the gasket with a light film of motor oil. This ensures everything is lined up & secure. Then tighten the bolts to 7.2 ft/lbs. Yours looks like the mount hole in the gasket was misaligned, & is sticking out. Hope this helps.

 

When you replaced it...did you replace the "donuts" that go around the bolts that hold it on? You know, the rubber spacers? Because if you didn't, the old squashed ones may not be able to tighten enough to get the cover on there snug. But for sure it shouldn't do that bulging out thing, that's a disaster.

Mine leaks at those ear things on the right side, but not enough to leave a puddle, that's for sure.

 

That looks like it is over tightened which seems impossible if the correct bolt and donut is used. that gasket is probably shot now, so when you install a new one be sure to use a good gasket adhesive and I'd check the bolt for damage. Good luck.

 

The Valve Cover (Cam Cover) is precision engineered to NOT leak.

The Gasket needs to be correctly installed and held tight by the Special Fasteners which incorporate a "Rubber Donut" Compression Bushing.

When the Rubber Donuts lose their elasticity, ... the Cover isn't going to get enough "Down-force" to remain Oil Tight.

The Cover is Engineered to be REUSED after Periodic Maintenance to the Valves.

To alleviate any Leak, ...
a) Replace the Rubber Compression Bushings a.k.a. "Donuts" on the Cover Fasteners.
b) Replace the Gasket if worn-out or damaged.

Since the Cam Cover Gasket fits with such nice precision and needs to be treated such that you can remove the Cam Cover and not damage the Gasket when doing adjustments and inspections, ... take your time getting the New one on just-right and it will last you for years.

Get the Cover meticulously clean where the Gasket will fit.
Make sure the Gasket "Lip Locating Channel" is thoroughly cleaned.

Clean the Channel and where the Gasket goes surgically clean.
Get your Mom's Elmers Glue.
Cut a Carb Cleaner Tube's end at a 45-Degree angle.

Smear >> Lightly Coat >> Lightly apply.

Smear some Elmers in the Channel using your Handy-Dandy Carb Tube which fits the channel Like a glove.
Don't waste time.
Get the Gasket Mounted in there and Position it before the Elmers dries.
SEAT the Gasket.
Wipe-off any Elmers the oozes out on to a moist Paper towel you have tucked into the band of your pants.
Position the Gasket PERFECTLY!
Let dry.
Good show.
Now, get an artist Paint Brush.
Paint the Gasket with a nice thin coat of Oil.
Paint the Engine Surface where the Gasket will touch with a thin coat of Oil.
Put the Cover on and POSITION IT.
Tighten down ....>>>> Slowly! Letting the Gasket SPREAD-OUT as you Tighten.
Torque to spex
It will NOT leak.

Where this article states Elmer Glue, ... any NON-hardening / NON-permanent bonding / Temporary adhesive will do.
You need to be able to get the Cover ON without the Gasket Falling-off.

 

Head out to your local airfield and see if you can find someone that'll give you some expired Hylomar....best gasket sealer on the planet. Also make sure you torque the bolts evenly, ie. torque the first bolt to 1/2 the spec, move across and diagonal to the opposite bolt and torque that to 1/2, work your way around until you have all the bolts down 1/2 way, then do the same to full torque.

 

That Gasket is NOT supposed to require Sealant.

The Precision Fit is Key.
With a properly positioned Gasket (In good condition), ... and Cover Fastner Rubber Donuts with adequate resiliency, ... just SMEARING both Mating Surfaces with light Oil ... so the Gasket Compresses and "Spreads-out" renders the Joint leak-proof and most-of-all ... Re-usable!

 

Thanks for the gasket advice guys. ours leaks a little and this will likely come in handy for the winter (I dont care if it drools some during the riding months).

 

Well it has been a while since I last posted. I took it in to a shop. They installed a new gasket and I rode the bike for about a hundred miles and then had to park it till yesterday. And the gasket seems to be leaking in the same area again. I hope the shop will warranty their work. If they don't I have no idea what to do next. Any one have any ideas.
The bike is a 85 maxim 700

 

Hopefully they will fix it! perhaps they re-used the existing gasket? Anyway, if they won't fix it, buy a proper one from Chacal and follow Rick's helpful instructions

 

REPLACE the "donuts" (the metal and rubber composite washers on the bolts.) As Rick pointed out, THEY are what do the work of pushing the cover down against the gasket/head. Even a new gasket will leak if the donuts are compressed and baked hard.

A properly installed gasket with new "donuts" won't leak.

These things: (Pic comparing old, compressed ones to new ones.)

 

I can try that again. I did replace the donuts the when I replaced the gasket. And I would assume and I know that may be a stretch but you would think that the shop did it when they installed the new gasket. I will have to ask them.
Do you suggest that I check the torque on the bolts?
Thanks for the ideas.

 

The bolts have stop collars. All they have to be is 7.2 ft/lb; the tightness of the bolts has nothing to do with compressing the gasket.

 

So I am bringing it back to the shop to get them to repair their work. Just from what I see it is in the same area that it was before. I had used a straight edge on the valve cover in that area and it is flat. I am wondering could the head be warped in that area and if it is what are my options. The shop I brought it to did replace the gasket and the donuts last time. I am hoping that they can fix it for good this time but I am not so sure.

 

Maybe it's just me (and most others on this site), but it seems that your first problem is that you took your bike to a shop to have them do the repairs.
Now I'm not saying that the mechanic who worked on your bike is a bad mechanic...but I would say, he's probably not an expert on Yamaha XJ's of this particular vintage...in fact, more than likely your bike was the first one he's ever worked on...
Changing a gasket and donuts on these bikes is not difficult (there are some great tutorials in the FAQ section) and for the cost of having a shop do it, you could have done it yourself...plus bought whatever tools and extra materials you might have needed and had a couple of bucks left over. Not to mention, if it still leaked, YOU'D now know what needed to be done to make it right. There are quite a few very knowledgeable Yamaha XJ "expert" on this site who will patiently walk you through just about any process you can imagine.
Screw the mechanic...do it yourself...just follow the tutorial, listen to the experts (doesn't take long to figure out which guys know thier shit and which one's are full of it)..and pump your fist in the air after you repaired something you never thought you'd be able to!
Good Luck

 

I'm inclined to think that A: they didn't actually replace the donuts;

or B: they damaged that one getting it on the bolt. (I've torn them up myself installing them, it's not unheard of.)

 

That job is a pita. I used new doughnuts and the new gasket squished out on a corner and leaked. I took it apart, cleaned the rtv off the top part of the gasket and it did it again. I broke the gasket on the third try and put the broke off piece in place and used extra rtv in that spot. It leaks a drop or two every 150-200 miles or so but I can live with that. Someone posted how they did this and they used red high tack gasket cement on the cover before they put the gasket in place. They polished the bare aluminum fins also in the tutorial. The proper gasket cement on the top part of the gasket was where I went wrong. Rtv made the gasket squeeze out and get cut.

 

The job doesn't need to be a PITA, you have to do this every 5000 miles when you check your valve clearances.

Those things (red high-tack and polishing the fins) were in two different articles. (I know that because I wrote them.)

RTV is a bad choice, unless you use it to glue the gasket to the cover and then WAIT a couple of days.

-A NEW gasket DOES NOT need sealant; the reason to use high-tack is because it positively glues it in place with a minimal amount of sealer and works quickly; plus it stays pliable even when fully cured. It's only a "cheat," but it works. The only reason we use a sealant at all is to glue it to the cover, because:

The whole key to this is getting the gasket properly located in the cover. The stop collars on the bolts limit how far everything can be tightened; with new "donuts" a good deal of "squish" gets applied. If the gasket is properly installed in the cover, it won't squeeze out. In the first pic in this thread, you can see nearly the entire bolt hole in the gasket. The ONLY way that's possible is if the bolt missed the hole altogether. That can't happen if the gasket is properly located in the cover.

Get this one figured out-- It's NOT a one-time thing, unless you don't plan to ride more than 5K miles.

 

I don't fault someone for bringing-in a bike for service, maintenance and repairs.
There needs to be a distinction between types of owners.
Some of us are "Wrenchers".
There are some who are not.

It takes tools, time, and experience too tackle fixing bikes.
Some have the tools and talent.
Some don''t.

When you don't and need to pay someone to do the work; you hope you find a business that has experienced and talented mechanics, because labor rates are getting expensive.

 

Nobody was (too seriously) on his case for taking it in.

Rick; I don't care if this is the first XJ the shop ever saw or not-- if they can't figure this one out, the bike shouldn't go back to them. My daughter's !@#$%^&* Ford Zetec has the same kind of valve cover gasket and donuts fercryinoutloud.

OP can find someone else to take his money if he wants. BUT---

All everyone is trying to point out is that this is a part of a basic maintenance (every 5K is "routine" isn't it?) procedure and if a shop can't manage this one they shouldn't be working on anything. They're beyond their pay grade here.

IT AIN'T ROCKET SCIENCE. All you have to do is do it correctly. The dead giveaway is that it still leaks. There can be only one reason for that: it wasn't done right. (Or the cover is cracked which I doubt; and the shop should have spotted that if it were. The head ain't warped on one corner.)

I still think the donuts weren't actually replaced, or they ripped one. They would have had to have ordered them, and if they screwed one up, weren't about to pay shipping for ONE. Wouldn't be the first time a shop 'ahem' distorted reality and then took it to the bank.

 

Well to let you guys know I did replaced it myself two times. The first time I got it in following instructions I found here. It worked for a hundred miles and then in that same area the gasket got pushed out and started leaking. The donuts were all replaced. The reason I did the gasket in the first place is the gasket was being pushed out that corner and the oil was leaking as it is now in a very constant drip. The second time I replaced it I had a helper that told me his side was good and he missed a whole spot which tore up that gasket then I got frustrated and took it in to see if someone else could fix it. Now because it seems to be having the same problem in the same spot I have to believe the cover is warped in some way and I have no idea how that happened. One day the cover was good the next I cannot get a gasket to stay seated in that area. This is why I am getting frustrated besides the fact I only have about two months to ride a year and having it down waiting on parts gets old.

 

I'd say the trick, like bigfitz said, is gluing the gasket to the cover before you try to put it all back together. Changing the donuts was easy enough but the gasket would not stay in the groove of the cover at all on its own. I had rtv laying around and thought I'd get away without having to buy more sealant that would end up laying around but I'll have to buy it and another gasket the next time around.

 

Forgot to add, that is the exact same spot I had problems with my gasket adventure.

 

Since it keeps happening in the same place whether you did it or someone else does, I would be suspicious of the channel in the cover that the gasket sits in. Either you have excess adhesive or a blemish in the metal itself. Unfortunately I think it is dubious to expect your shop is going to take the time to figure this one out considering time is money...

 

I bet that if you got an allan wrench and pulled any of the bolts up, you'd find that the donuts were NOT replaced. I'd even bet the shop doesn't even know HOW to replace the donuts themselves.

We shall see.

Next thing.......here is a suggestion for everyone else to put in their little bag of tricks. I have had numerous times that I would find a gesket that had 'been sliced apart', or otherwise separated (or nearly separated) at one or more of the corners by the half-moons. Turned out in each case, that the metal edge of the head had a very sharp edge from the original machining that was literally slowly cutting it's way through the gasket. So, I use a very fine machinists metal file to just remove the 'burr', but not enough to change the shape of the corners. I do all four points at the half- moons, and haven't had any more gaskets cut, or failures there. FWIW

Dave F

 

A new Cover Gasket, properly installed, shouldn't leak and should be good for several removals of the Valve Cover before needing a new one.
Mine is Original and has been reused over 5 times.
The key is to clean the Gasket Surface and the Head Mating Surface with Alcohol or Carb Cleaner and LUBE BOTH SURFACES before carefully mounting the Cover and Tightening the Fasteners down to finger tight and aligning the Cover just before final torquing.
Pliable Rubber Donuts is a MUST.
The Pressure exerted on the Cover by the "Squished" Donuts creates the Oill Tight Seal.

::: Temporary Measures :::

Install a O-ring between the Collar and Donut.
Add some compression.
If you cannot get the O-ring OVER the Collar or Donut, ... Split the O-ring on a BIAS and thread it below the Collar.

 

What was the name/part number of that red stuff you used Bigfitz?

 

"Stuff" can't eliminate a Valve Cover Leak.
You have to resort to installing the cover with a properly fitted Gasket and Rubber Donuts capable of exerting the necessary force on the Gasket to make it Oil Tight.

Until such time as the Donuts and Gasket are renewed and capable you can try to cheat.

Shoot some PERMATEX "High-Tack Spray-a-Gasket" into a Tuna Can.
Use an Artists Paint Brush to apply two coats to the Gasket and Head Mating Surfaces.

That should hold-back a leak until the New Parts you need to install to permanently stop the leak arrive.

 

Permatex (NAPA) High-Tack Spray-a-gasket; the same stuff Rick is talking about.

I'm using it to prepare a clutch gasket in the pic below; "decant" some into a suitable container and apply with a brush as Rick suggests (and as I did in the valve adjustment article.)

 

I had all new parts from Len when I went to fix the leak.

 

::: What do you use to clean the over-spray off from the cement? :::

 

If you took it to this SHOP you wouldn't have any issues. They specialize in vintage Japanese bikes and cafe racers.

 

brake cleaner or lacquer thinner. Or let it wear off.