Valve Shim Pad double check

Hello all, recently picked up an 82 650 Midnight Maxim. front brakes were locked and have been rebuild along with the carbs #4 float needle was stuck and the rest were not bad. took them to the "prayer circle" of cleaning instead of church until more supplies are gathered and rack can be broken down. along with the plethora of info and to-do's on here I thought it best to open this up for a valve shim pad double check using the combined terrifying knowledge. numbers are in order cyl.1-4 in mm

exhaust- .13 (y260) (y255 needed) .18, .18, .15 (y270) (y265 needed)
intake- .12, .11, .12, .09(y280) (y275 needed)

This is taken from the Haynes manual and if I'm not mistaken this midnight maxim is the 650LH. The next issue I have is this is my first time actually using feeler gauges and taking valve clearance the ARES feeler gauges I have jumped a few sizes these were taken by using two gauges .04+.07 to get the reading any combo of 2 gauges that equaled .12 would not insert inbetween the lobe and pad I TRIPLE checked each one using different combos and no results changed I also moved the lobes without the feelers present to find the absolute largest clearance I could. Is this acceptable? or do I start my hunt for some better gauges.

Last tangent, I have read here that in-spec is in-spec. BUT would the replacement of intake #2 pad be worth it? or wait until next clearance check?

ill get some pictures up soon the white/black repaint is done terribly but looks good if you squint real hard.

 

I would definitely get a set of gauges with the sizes I needed. They are inexpensive and will last a lifetime.

As for the actual adjustments, I always correct any that are out of spec. If you are not going to correct them, why both checking them?

 

I'll start looking for some that are closer maybe .01-.03mm difference.

Seems S.O.P to check every clearance, #2 being as tight as it is I worried of near future issues I did not hook up the bucket hold-down tool (I don't trust my snausage fingers with zip-ties) to that cylinder. Re-checking the charts provided however a new pad (down) would put it out of spec (0.16) and no in-between sizes are provided.

Springing for quality gasket to get use out of for next interval.

 

Tip: 0.05mm, which is both the interval between adjacent shim sizes (Y275 vs Y280, for instance) and the width of the "in-spec" range (0.10-15mm on intake, 0.15-20mm on exhaust) is 0.001969 inch, which is more than close enough to just call it 0.002 inch. So a set of inch feeler gauges at 0.001" intervals is quite satisfactory for the purpose. As is defining "in-spec" as 0.004-6" on intake and 0.006-8" on exhaust.

Keep in mind that you can't measure the clearance exactly; you can only determine a range it falls within. For instance, when I measured my #4 intake, the 0.004" feeler fit but the 0.005" did not. This means the actual clearance is somewhere between 0.102 and 0.127mm, putting it in the lower half of the "in-spec" range. I could leave the Y280 shim in place for now (since the measurement is still in range), or I could go down one shim size (0.05mm/0.002") to a Y275 and put the clearance somewhere in the 0.152-0.177mm range. Now, if you take the numbers literally this means the valve will be a tiny bit loose, but this is in fact what the Yamaha service manual recommends. If you instead view the numbers as a bracket (a feeler if an 0.10mm feeler doesn't fit, it's too tight; if a feeler larger than 0.15mm fits, it's too loose), it makes sense.