valve shim swap

Let's see if these make sense to anyone else.

Valve specs.

Gauged #1(E) .178, #2(E) .0762, #3(E) .203, #4(E) .178
shims #1(E) (2.85), #2(E) (2.85), #3(E)(2.75), #4(E) (2.85)

Gauged #1(I) .1016, #2(I) .127, #3(I) .203, #4(I) .0762
shims #1(I) (2.80), #2(I) (2.75), #3(I) (2.80), #4(I) (2.90)

swap 2E - 4I, 4I - 3I, 3I - 3E, 3E - 2E

82 XJ650, Maxim

 

First let's list which valves are not in specs:

E#2 too tight by two increments so you'll need a 275 shim

E#3 is a bit loose but not by much I wouldn't touch it

I#3 is too loose by one increment, you'll need a 285 shim

I#4 is too tight by one increment, you'Ll need a 285 shim

I think the only ones you can swap is E#2 to either I#3 or I#4, but you will have to buy one 285 and one 275.

I could be easier to tell for sure if you'd measured with metric gauges, you wouldN,t have those confusing digits at the end of each reading. (for example 0.0203, the 3 at the end doesn't help at all).

 

i don't know what those measurements are in. what kind of gauge measures
.0762 ?

 

Looks like the result of a conversion calculation

 

After swapping some shims around here's what I get,

E1) .16, E2) .20, E3) .16, E4) .18

i1) .13, i2) .13, i3).08, i4).13

i3 is a little tight, it's got a 285 in it now, going down to 280

Bought a compression tester, but doesn't seem to be working right. The gauge doesn't hold the compression. Tried it on my car, same deal.

 

Good job on the shims.

Take the compression tester back and get one with an obvious "Schrader valve" (release valve) on the fitting just below the gauge head.

It will probably run you a couple bux more than the one you got.

 

Got one from Sears. Seems to work better, at least it's holding the pressure.
#1) 130
#2) 125
#3) 128
#4) 130

 

That's high enough and even enough that it should run ok. Getting a little tired but still within rideable reason.