What type of oil...

Was going to do an oil change tonight, for the first time. The bike is relatively new to me, so I want to make sure all fluids in it are topped up and "fresh".

Just wondering, what kind of oil would you recomend for an old 82 maxim. I'd rather have a few suggestions before I wander into the store...thanks!

 

10w40 semi synthetic be sure to change you oil filter as well, the filter housing is right between the down pipes. Just crack the bolt of the housing and the filter will be underneath, not sure how much oil you will need to put it but it should tell you next to you oil filling plug. The draining plug is located on the underside of the bike look for a plug held in with to 10mm bolts and a wire leading from it.

Hope this has helped and if there is any thing I have missed/got wrong I am sure one of the other members will help. One last thing I tend to add about 300-400ml extra oil to keep the warning light coming on.

 

MOTORCYCLE oil. Conventional 20W50 or 10W40; just don't use automobile oil. If you can find 20W40, all the better, but 20W50 is fine.

Automotive oil standards have changed; car oil now contains "friction modifiers" that are incompatible with our clutches and starter clutches; as are most synthetics.

Castrol 4T is readily available these days, as are a couple of other brands of motorcycle-specific oil.

 

Question.... ive always used castrol gtx 20/50 in my yz race bikes with no ill effects on the clutch... if standard car oil is no bueno why did it not mess with my clutch? i ask because i used castrol 20/50 gtx in my bike but i havent really used it much. will it be ok for a couple hundred miles or do i NEED to drain it now? thanx!

Jay

 

The API standards have changed in just the last few years; now ALL "car" oil, including our beloved Castrol GTX, contains friction modifiers that don't play well with our stuff.

Personally, I've run GTX 20W50 in my Norton since new; but had to switch to Castrol 4T a couple seasons back because that bike's clutch was not happy all of a sudden.

Castrol GTX is now up to API Service 'SM', while 4T is still only API 'SG', but is also JASO 'MA' spec. And that's what matters. JASO specs are new, and were something insisted upon by the powersports industry as car oil began to play havoc with people's toys.

You now need to pay attention to oil having a JASO spec; high API specs (above SG) spell trouble, especially for the starter clutch. Look in your manual at how that contraption actually works, you'll understand.

Ain't technology grand?

 

Fitz,

Thanks for the explanation. Honestly I hadn't looked at the progression of oil specs, but I have to say this jives exactly with my experience. I don't know when they added more modifiers, but I do know this--when I first got my bike (I think in 2004) I used GTX and it worked great. Then, over the years I have continued using GTX and in the last 2-3 years my clutch slips like crazy under full power, and my starter clutch clucks like a barnyard full of hens.

Anyway, I'll have to try 4T like you say. I plan to add seafoam to what's in there right now and clean things out and see if the clutch performance restores.

 

NNOOOOO!!!

NO SEAFOAM IN CRANKCASE.

SeaFoam is a "witches' brew" of solvents, nothing more. It won't clean anything out; it can potentially cause damage. These are high RPM plain-bearing engines; you don't want to dump a bunch of solvents in the oil. The best way to "clean out" an XJ motor is repeated short-mileage oil changes, until the oil starts staying clean. Not snake oil.

If your clutch continues to slip, maybe it's time for some new friction plates and springs, depending on the miles on the bike. The original clutch wouldn't generally last past 20K~25K miles or so.

 

I use Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 in my Maxim. It is designed specifically for these bikes (4 stroke, wet clutch) and it works great. I won't use anything else. It costs more but it is great stuff.

 

I've been "evaluating" Castrol ACT>EVO X-Tra 4T 20W40 semi-synthetic and so far I like it. It's likewise touted as being for wet-clutch bikes, and I've had no issues whatsoever. I'm also seeing ZERO oil consumption, despite quite a bit of high-speed riding lately.

 

Interesting. I don't know how many miles are on it, but I did pull the clutch a little while back. I had new friction plates ready to put in, but the old ones were well within spec, so I just replaced the springs. I have to assume this is an oil issue.

Do you have experience switching from an oil causing slip to one that restores clutch performance? Does the performance come back?

Also, I'm aware of what SeaFoam is, but it should not cause damage to run in through the oil briefly, if the oil is then drained and replaced. Have you had damage from doing this?

 

Yes, and yes, the clutch returned to normal.

I've never had any damage but then again I won't run solvent in my motor oil and never have. I HAVE seen engines damaged by the use of similar products though.

 

Do you guys get HPR oils over there?

I run HPR GAS (LPG) spec oil. Suitable for both cars and bikes.

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/m ... ls/hpr_gas


HPR oils have a good reputation over here in Aust

 

I added lucas oil stabilizer to my cranck case as per the instructions when I first got my bike. My fresh oil turned black. I figure just a dirty little poorly maintained engine. I have since change oil and filter several times till it stayed clean. But I am currently using auto oil and I do hear that clicking pygmy_goat mentioned. Guess I see another oil change in my future. But I'm glad I have had ZERO clutch slippage.

 

I was just at my dealer last week and he had 10-40 Yamalube...
Whats your spin on this oil??? Is it any good??? I bought it for now because I could not find any Casterol. Do I nned to switch??

 

Yamalube is motorcycle oil; you're fine.

It's a top quality motorcycle oil, made for Yamaha by some company or another and packaged in real expensive Yamaha-labeled bottles. You're paying extra for the Yamaha name is all.

 

As I figured...
I will have to find a place that sells the Casterol. I used to use the GTX back in the 80's and it was the bees knees back then. As with anything good they have to change it. I'm glad I found this website so I didn't pour it into this bike!

 

It wasn't Castrol's choice, per se. The Industry Standard service ratings for automotive oils, the "API" specs, have changed quite a bit.

That's what prompted the powersports manufacturers to demand their own specification from the American Petroleum Institute, and we now have JASO standards.

From the JASO website:

"JASO MA
Japanese standard for special oil which can be used in 4-stroke motorcycle engine with one oil system for engine, gearbox and wet clutch system. Fluid is non-friction modified."

The JASO "MB" standard is NOT for our bikes; it's too slippery.