where is that really good valve adjustment thread??

I need to get in and check the valves on my 82 Maxim, and i seem to remeber there being a good thread with info on doing the valve adjustment. I want to think it was written by Rick but all my searches are only turning up threads for the 85 and 86 Maxims and Xs.

I have put 6000 miles on the bike since I have owned it and have never checked the valves. My valve cover is leaking and since I figure i'll be in there replacing the gasket, i might as well check and adjust the valves as well.

So, can someone point me to the thread or a good tutorial on doing the valve adjustments?

and then maybe make it a sticky so its easy to find later?

 

Not really tutorial:

Photo of #4 intake came shim and bucket


Photo measuring clearance #4 intake valve:


Pretty easy to check. Note position of cam lobe.

Record all the clearances. (Check at room temperature).

If you have one out of tolerance you will need to pull it and read the number stamped on the bottom.

To pull a shim out - Rotate the shim bucket until the small gap in the bucket is toward the center of the head (The shim bucket looks like a bright ring in the 2nd picture, right under the feeler gauge. If you look carefully you can see the gap at about 6 O'clock).

Turn the engine until the cam lifts the valve. You need to capture the valve open - there is a tool that bolts to the holes the cam cover uses and holds the edge of the shim bucket (J.C. Whitney sells them) - some people use a piece of solid 14 GA wire with insulation through the spark plug hole and up behind the valve to keep it from closing. I didn't think to take a photo of the tool in place.

Rotate the engine until the lobe is up away from the shim like the pictures. NOTE: IF YOU ARE USING THE SHIM TOOL DO NOT ROTATE THE LOBE INTO THE TOOL. YOU WILL BREAK THE HEAD. PAY ATTENTION THAT THE LOBE ROTATES AWAY FROM THE TOOL.

You can use a small screwdriver in the gap in the shim cup to pop the shim out. Read the numbers off the back and record. Put shim back for now. Rotate cam to open valve, remove whatever rig you used to hold the valve open.

Now, for the ones out of tolerance calculate the thickness of shim you need instead of the one in there. You may be able to use some of the shims in a different location.

Order necessary shims.

Replace.

 

The BEST resource for dealing with advanced maintenance issues, such as Valve Clearances and Adjusting the Valves by replacing the Shims is:

Not on a CD
Not in a Motorcycle Chat Forum
Not online ...

The Very Best Source of the information you need for some jobs is:

The Factory Workshop Manual for the Bike you own.

Spend the money and order yourself a Factory Workshop Manual.
Read it.
It covers every possible maintenance topic ... with Do's and Don'ts.

You will find that the Manual "Pays for itself" ... the very first time you use it and get some job done you'd have paid for without it!

 

The Standard Valve Bucket Tool ... used to keep the Valve Bucket Depressed while exchanging the Valve Shims ...

Does NOT work on XJ750 Maxim Engines.

Your Best course of action is to loosen the Cam Bearing Caps and lift the Cam ... ever so slightly to extract the Shim to be replaced.

Loosen the Cam Bearing Caps ... DON'T Remove them.

If the Cam escapes it's relative position and rotates toward the center of the Head ... the Cam Chain becomes SLACKED and the AUTO Tensioner will immediately take-up that Slack.

You will have to REMOVE and RESET the Cam Chain Tensioner in order to rotate the Cam back to its rightful position in the bearing.

This will involve having to remove the Carbs to get at the Tensioner and reseal the Gasket-ed surface where the Tensioner mates to the rear of the Block.

Note:
The Old School Trick for getting the Bolt Cap back on the Tensioner is:
Center Punch ... Dead Center ... the Bolt Cap.
Drill a "Dimple" into the Center of that Cap.

When you are ready to try to re-install the Bolt Cap ... have an Assistant HOLD Tension against the Bolt with the Point of a Phillips Screwdriver ... allowing you to start its threads into the Tensioner Housing and ROTATE the Bolt Cap WITH the assistant defeating the pressure of the two tension springs with the tip of the screwdriver.