Wiring help please

Hi all, i have Bought a half done project xj600 1990 ish per diversion in parts, so i never had the luxury of dismantling the bike meticulously bit by bit, i am continuing with the cafe racer style the previous owner gave up on, it has been converted from mono shock to twin shock, but thats by the by. I am putting it back together and get to the wiring, i am wanting to have the bike as minimal as possible, just headlights blinkers, horn and maybe a bulb for the Speedo , If i cut things out like the side stand switch and clutch switch etc will i have to then connect them wires to continue the circuit at the block? Also i have 2 wires that don't seem to go anywhere , both from the engine , one white that i think is the oil level sensor and one dark blue that is in a group that goes to the ignitor box please help and see picture thanks Ben

 

the blue one should go back to the neutral position sensor

diagrams may help



white /green to reed switch?

 

Ahh thank you , so i could in effect do away with both these wires?

 

how does your vin start?

JYA 49F
JYA 4BR

 

neutral switch yes , is the wire white green ?
I am looking at 2 different shop manuals for xj600

 

Just full white, the oil level sensor one,
Vin number is 51j041321

 

Yes i have one for reed switch, that I'm unsure about if i need which is white/green but the other is in the photo full white with the black rubber coating with bullet connector on

 

Bump

 

reed switch is for the auto cancell in the blinkers.

the only white wire i find on the wiring diagram are 3 for the alternator.

you do not need the oil sensor to run but is a nice warning system to have,

 

Ahh so blue nuteral, don't need.
White I think is oil sensor don't need
And white green reed switch for self cancelling indicators don't need
Thank you

 

find the 3 white wires from the alternator befor cuttin the white wire

 

Yeah have found then cheers

 

Ok so, I have everything hooked up, ignition on, sidestand switch bypassed correctly (I think ). Clutch switch works and is pulled in. Battery is charged, solenoid has been checked and works. Starter motor has been tested with jump leads, kill switch in the correct on position fuses are all new and good.

yet when I press the start button, nothing no click from solenoid and even when solenoid has been bypassed (screwdriver over both large terminals) the starter motor dose not engage please help!!

 

Shorting the two large terminals is effectively testing the starter. Either the starter is bad, the battery is dead, or you don't have it connected properly.

Do you get any sparks when you short the two large terminals?

Well, this would be a different issue than above, unless the battery or battery terminal connections have a problem.

 

Apply 12 volts to the small terminals on the starter solenoid to test the solenoid itself.
Work backwards from there.

 

Yeah I get sparks when shorting the large terminals, battery Is new and have read 12.5 volts at the solenoid when connected.
Is there nothing else in between the solenoid and starter motor that could stop it working when the terminals are sorted?

To test the solenoid I checked the ohms over the two small terminals and checked the workshop manual and got 3.7 which was within the correct values but will directly apply power to the small terminals just to check

 

So the idiot I am didn't have the starter connect correctly, duh!
Now when I press the start button I get clicks but dose not start , I have put the battery on charge as it was reading only 11.5 v. I have tested the horn and that works fine on the button, I connected the original indicators and they work correctly, but I have some bar end ones that I have from flebay that when connected the blow the 10a fuse instantly. I put a 20a fuse in and tried them, the indicator relay clicks like mad very quickly and the indicator lights up but dose not flash ? What's going wrong here ?
Thanks

 

11.5 seems low for a charged battery.

 

I took it off at 11.5 and put it on charge

 

Battery is charged showing 12.72v , when I press the start button the solenoid clicks quickly but the starter motor dose not kick in? Help

 

that is a sign of bad solinoid can you spin the starter by jumping the posts with a screw driver?


if starter spins you need a new solenoid.

 

No starter dose not spin when jumping the posts

 

that would be a bad starter
could be a broken wire inside the starter

 

Sounds like the starter might have to come out for a bench/road 'spin'...

 

I have had jump leads from the battery directly to the starter and that spins fine

 

Then it's either bad solenoid....'clicking', or very weak battery.....

Does the engine turn over, in gear (4th/5th will be easier to turn it)

 

Dose not turn over in 5th, battery has just been charged, and solenoid I have checked the ohms with multimeter and is within the right ohms stated

 

Can you wire up your 'good' known car battery?

I would undo the battery, from the bike/car and connect to bike terminals using jumper cables.....then see if it spins

 

You can't turn the engine over, at all??

What about the big nut....from memory?, on the end casing where the pickups live?, can you tuen it over, with a spanner/wrench, at all??

 

Take the plugs out, then try turning it over....by hand

 

I have turned it over with jump leads to the starter , just got My car battery out going to try that, thank you for your help but please read the rest of the post we seem to be answering the same questions over and over.

 

Tried car battery and still the same

 

So the starter works if you take the solenoid out of the equation? If you remove the wire from the starter side of the solenoid and conned the "red" "+" jumper cable to it and touch the "black" or "-" jumper to the frame of the bike, it should spin the starter. If that works and the "click noise is there from the starter button when it is all wired "normal" then I am stumped. Others can correct me, but it you have the "click" sound when you push the starter button then the starter circuit is working, the starter should spin.

 

Tried that and nothing, just clicking from solenoid when start button pushed, and clicking from the blue /black box

 

If that is not the main fuse then it's a bad idea to up that fuse from 10 amp to 20 amp and risk burning the wiring within the harness. The fleabay flasher may attach wires to ground, so polarity of the wiring would be important. Provide a link to the one's you bought and that might help. As for the flasher clicking away it is hard to make a judgement as it seems you were going for minimal wiring, but that sounds like a stock flasher with low wattage bulbs. Not totally sure on your bike as it is newer, but typically you must use the 27 watt bulbs with the stock flasher relay to work correctly.

Checking the relay coil on the starter solenoid just tells you the coil is present. It will not tell you if the solenoid is mechanically bound or if the high current contacts are any good and can provide enough current to the starter for it to work correctly.

Knowing what was wrong and what you did to correct this could be helpful

You need to make this the first priority to troubleshoot. If the starter does not spin when shorting the two large post on the solenoid then:

Battery is too weak to spin the starter - check with voltmeter when solenoid post are shorted

Starter is defective - usually poor brush contact which can sometimes be temporarily repaired by tapping on the starter with a plastic mallet

Starter is shorted to ground - usually caused by incorrect hookup or damage to terminal insulators on the starter input post

Incorrect or missing wiring

Edit or motor is locked up, it is confusing on your stated results if it turns over manually

 

It was the only other fuse I had and will be changed back
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291348036238 this are the indicators
I have another solenoid from a cagiva mito 125 around year 2000 would this work as a substitute?
Black wire bolted to the engine casing that also goes to the starter was not connected to the solenoid see pic

I have used my daily car battery as my power source so not battery issue
Have jumped from battery directly to starter and is fine
What do you mean by starter shorted to ground?

 

Can't make that out totally, but if that smaller black wire you have attached to the solenoid goes to the engine case that is wrong. That wire would be a ground wire to connect the motor to the frame.

The large black wire on the solenoid should go to the post on the starter, that is the high current 12V supply. You could clip your meter on the starter post and when you short the two large terminals on the solenoid that should go to battery voltage.

As in shorted to ground, meaning incorrect or missing insulators at the starter post is usually the cause or a defective starter. Usually verified with a bench test as the resistance of the starter is so low it can not be measured with a standard DMM.

 

Rebuild the starter. A kit is less han $30 shipped.

Yes you have other issues, but the starter is clearly in need of service.

 

Good news I had the black from the solenoid going to the battery not to the starter, duh and the big back from the engine going to the starter . I'm an idiot but have learnt that lesson haha just the indicators and light to sort now

 

And yes they only have one wire and rely on a grounded handlebar for the other side. So, you must be sure you connect the hot side to the red wire, otherwise you will blow a fuse.

They are also LED, so you will need to get a non load dependent flasher relay.

 

The rear are led too Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262906997547 this is them, do you have any recommendations for the new relay? Thanks

 

https://www.amazon.com/AUDEW-Electr...=1495299396&sr=8-3&keywords=led+flasher+relay

Love this one and you can change the speed.

 

The rear are led too Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262906997547 this is them, do you have any recommendations for the new relay? Thanks

 

That is not too specific, so picking an aftermarket relay to work with LED's may not be that easy. Take a look at yours and maybe post a photo of the bottom. It looks like that era combined the starter cutoff relay and the auto cancel with the flasher, so finding a plug and play may not be that easy. If you don't mind cutting wires and maybe adding terminals the number of options increases, and the one Timbox recommended would likely be fine.

 

I have already got rid of the reed switch ( self cancelling) I don't mind I've cut and soldered Alot already.
And have already ordered that relay anyway.
I have found with the headlight I have bought which is also LED , it has a black and red for high beam and a seperate red and black for the main beam, but on the high/low switch it only turns either high or low beam not both when high beam is selected

 

That is the normal wiring and usually OK with an LED bulb. Got a link to the LED bulb you are using? Or a data sheet on it? Perhaps the black wires are a common ground?

 

Rooster53
" - but typically you must use the 27 watt bulbs with the stock flasher relay to work correctly."
Ah but - most UK-located bikes and cars use only 20 watt bulbs for indicators. Not sure how easily you can buy US-spec 27 watt type in the UK ?
And, yes, with LEDs you just introduce the new need for a device to fool the flasher unit.

 

@XJ900 uk

I suspect the UK bikes would have a different part number for the OEM flasher to work with the 21 watt bulbs, and also for the CMS brake and tail circuit.

Strange they are different between the UK and the States. I guess the sun must not be as bright over there. The headlight is the same, so it gets just as dark

I don't have a service manual for the OP's bike, but 27W was a guess with the OEM flasher, I think it might have been originally equipped with 24W, but like you stated it is a moot point since the OP is converting to LED.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152069872209