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Work up to now, feedback on proposed next steps, please?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by huckersteve, Jul 14, 2008.

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How crazy should I get with my Street Fighter/Bobber design ethic on this bike?

  1. Mild- Keep it looking like a Maxim.

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  2. Moderate- Don't lose your head but give 'Er some flair.

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  1. huckersteve

    huckersteve Member

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    Hey Ladies and Germs,

    First off thank-you all for this amazing forum. Not only has it been crucial in getting my little $300 gem running more than smoothly, I have gained an appreciation for the wonderful bikes these XJ's are, and feel like I'm a member not only of the motorcycling community, but of a little special club all our own, of XJ owners and riders. The info I get here never ceases to amaze and inspire me to feel like there's nothing about my bike I can't take on. Thank-you all for being here and for always striving to help a fellow rider, this is a really cool place.

    This thread is about what I've done up to now and things I want to do. I'm hoping for your feedback and advice regarding realizing my ever evolving vision of what I want my Maxim to become. Without further ado:

    Here's my little buddy, 1980 Maxim 650 (XJ650G), just clicked 30k miles, got it a couple months ago with 26,500 on her. I won't bore you all with the before pics, but it's a familiar story. Cracked tires, cracked and blown out rattle can paint job, non working tach, seized front brake caliper, ditry old fuel, clogged and bogging throttle response, non working brake lights, surface rust on everything, but she started right up and ran. She was just beautiful, and just what I needed.

    [​IMG]

    So far I have:

    Cleaned out the fuel lines my own special way, (probably very poorly and dangerously) by running premium fuel and some carb cleaner additive for the first few weeks. I know now this was dumb, the additives at least, but so far no ill effects knock on wood! Oh yeah, and by riding it like I stole it everywhere to blow any old crud out of my carbs/lines.

    Got new Dunlop 404's installed. (Yay!)

    Rebuilt front brake caliper in my Bro in Law's garage, which was fun. Working like a charm. New pads at the same time of course.

    Thoroughly cleaned and detailed entire bike. Repainted from horrible yellow to what you see above.

    Re-wired fuses with modern Buss blade fuses, re-connected brake light.

    New brake and clutch levers, new right hand mirror, New grips. :)

    Discovered my idle adjuster and no longer have to run my bike partially choked while warm to achieve smooth idle.

    Now so far that's all. Have not even changed the oil yet, though I have topped it up once. No leaks at all. Have yet to pull my plugs but of course I will be during stage two of my bike improvement program.

    SO- Next things planned:

    Pull plugs and inspect.

    Replace what looks to be 35 year old "Air Filter" which is actually AN EMPTY FRAME OF DECOMPOSED FOAM, WITH NO INTERNAL PAPER BAFFLE with a new, real unit.

    Have seat re-upholstered. (taking suggestions on ways to get a sporty profile/bobber look for this one)

    Rebuild headset (bicycle term) steerer bearings, change fork oil.

    Invert low rise handlebars for a more aggressive riding position

    Somehow cut down factory 4 into 2 exhaust pipes to approx. half length? Can I do this safely and if so, HOW? I'd imagine it will change some things back pressure wise please advise..

    Thermal wrap on headers.

    Replace inline fuel filter. (only baby Jesus knows how long it's been on there)

    Seek out and mount up some upgraded rear shocks, hoping to score a piggyback style somewhere, somehow..

    Upgrade front headlight to a modern looking white spectrum type (sylvania style?)

    Fabricate a new fuel filler cap for my tank as mine currently will not lock closed or latch at all! (Anybody got an old one they'll sell me so I don't have to MacGuyver one up?)

    Take off carbs (yipe!) and inspect/clean/sync them. (Should I screw with this if my bike starts/runs/idles perfectly or just count my blessings and leave those dastardly devices to themselves?)

    Finally, YES, change the oil/oil filter and transmission oils ASAP.


    Okay I know it's a frickin' long post so the three of you who finally make it through the whole thing can have your way with me, all help is appreciated I love you guys.

    -S

    Edit: DANGIT! There was one more poll option there! WILD- New front end off a Seca, Solo seat, no fenders, custom pipes, the whole nine yards! Please respond accordingly or if a mod, help me add this option to my poll!
     
  2. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    What is wrong with your existing fuel cap? Has it been "popped" with a screwdriver or is the mechanism not functioning? I've had a few caps respond to a good cleaning and relubricating the innards.
    Seca front end is nice but make sure you are ready for the misery of a lousy master cylinder access problem.
     
  3. huckersteve

    huckersteve Member

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    I saw that! my friend has one and it's silly! Maybe I'll make a NEW master cylinder assembly and sell it to all Seca owners around the world for millyuns!!

    As to my fuel cap- it's a goner. missing bits inside the jammy inside. You get the idea.
     
  4. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I don't think inverting the handlebars is going to work.
    You'll likely run the ends into the tank, is my guess.

    When you start tinkering with exhaust and intake ... you throw-open the door to needing to make adjustments to the way the Carbs are jetted.

    Before you cut-up the Silencers ... if they are in good condition ... sell them to a Member needing Stock Mufflers and put Harley Pipes on your bike.
     
  5. huckersteve

    huckersteve Member

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    Thanks Rick- you're right inverting my bars would likely cause interference with my tank. I have bigger fish to fry now however. I stripped my oil drain plug hole tonight big time. I cross threaded the darn thing putting it back in after draining, despite taking my time and getting it started by hand without apparent problems.

    Now what I need to know is- can I do a helicoil on this thing and somehow salvage my sump? I'm feeling pretty stupid right about now. I managed to half-ass thread it back in there and start the bike after refilling it with oil, but there is definelty a leak now where there was none before and I have zero confidence in it holding out under anything other than idle conditions.

    Needless to say I was crushed at the realization of my own clumsiness.

    SIDE NOTE: my exhausts have leaks on both sides from corrosion. I am thinking I am good to go for chopping up my pipes, as they are likely useless to any other members..
     
  6. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I spent a good deal of time discussing this repair job with Technical Department Reps at Yamaha and BDK (Black and Decker -- HeliCoil Div)

    Welding is a chancy, last-resort, but ... still an option on that part of the case.

    It will require being welded by a highly experienced professional capable of joining Cast Aluminum and Billet with a bead that is oil tight.

    After throughly examining the situation the Joint Recommended Procedure to be tried before welding is a HeliCoil Insert.

    You will need the following:

    Metric sized drill: 20.25 mm (.796 in -- 51/64th)

    Tap: HeliCoil Insert Cutting -- Part Number: 5476-20 / Tap

    Tool; HeliCoil Inserting Large sized Insert:
    Part Number -- 7753-20

    HeliCoil Insert / Special sized:
    Insert Part Number: 3745-20-CN 200

    Bolt threads:
    M20 X 1.5
    Length of threaded area at end of bolt = 2.0 cm
    Bolt depth into threaded area with Filter Housing flush to mount and bolt tightened finger tight: 15.5 mm of the 20 mm cut at end of bolt.

    Insert is rated for above the 11 FtLbs of recommended torque.

    Contact:

    Emhart Teknologies
    A Div of Black and Decker
    Industrial Division
    50 Shelton Technology Center
    P.O. Box 859
    Shelton, CT 06484 USA

    Tel. 203-924-9341
    Fax. 203-925-3109

    Email: emhart.teknologies @ bdk.com

    Get that bike fixed right.
    Good luck.
    B&D Tech says it WILL work!
     
  7. RangerG

    RangerG Member

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    It sounds like you are well on your way to having a wonderful bike to play with. My thoughts would be to mount a lower set of bars and get the seat recovered and lowered a bit. It looks like they stuffed a pillow in there. I'm thinking of trying a gel pad insert in my own seat.
    Your headers don't look too bad other than a couple dents. I'd probably go the Harley muffler route. There has to be a million Harley mufflers out there because I can't recall ever seeing or hearing a stock Harley running.
    I'd be leary about taking the carbs apart. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. All the other mods and upgrades sound very wise. Have fun.
     
  8. Ass.Fault

    Ass.Fault Active Member

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    Yes, yes you did.
    Rick you are a machine, I am thinking maybe cloned from used xj oil :wink:

    Seriously Rick, you make this forum all it is...and Thanks :)
     
  9. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    The information I supplied about that HeliCoil Job isn't for the Oil Drain Plug.

    My Bad!

    Those measurements are for the Oil FILTER Bolt.
    Disregard the information with Part Numbers and Sizes.

    You can still repair the Oil Drain Plug with a HeliCoil, too.
    Obviously, the HeliCoil isn't going to be the same one used for the Oil Filter Bolt.

    Contact the folks at Emhart and discuss with them what you need to do.
    You need a HeliCoil and tooling to repair the Oil Drain Plug.

    The Oil Drain Plug is: M14 X 1.5 (Metric, but NOT as fine a thread pitch)

    The Tap, Inserting Tool and HeliCoil will all be different from the Part Numbers listed in my previous Post regarding a HeliCoil Insert to repair the stripped-out threads of the Oil FILTER Bolt.

    Sorry about the confusion!

    Check-out this Kit, too. There are two M14X1.5 Kits -- One specifically for aluminum!

    Link:
    http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html
     
  10. huckersteve

    huckersteve Member

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    Rick- Thank-you so much. Even having made a mistake, and having to correct it, your knowledge and willingness to go out of your way to help me is awesome and I am pumped to attempt this fix.

    I will be looking into this over the next couple of days and effect my repair by this weekend. I will certainly post back here to let you know how it goes, or if I run into any more challenges.

    I was able to temporarily stop the leakage today with the help of a local mechanic, and the creative application of two washers and an O-Ring. That got me home from work without a drop of oil lost, 30 miles.

    I'm going out to take pics of my headers and silencers now which I will post here later. I'm thinking headers are all good, silencers are probably hammered enough to chop up. Will of course not proceed until you guys get a look.

    Another note- I hate my seat more than you guys do- who has the Photoshop skillz to show me an improved version of my baby? Something sportier, with less of a futon mattress quality?
     
  11. huckersteve

    huckersteve Member

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    Update since last post:

    Have NOT repaired oil drain plug. Need to but am scared! LOL

    However-

    Replaced headlight with new white spectrum Halogen sealed bulb. Pretty nice result for $18.50!

    Replaced instrument gauges. Tach now working!

    Repaired front broken Blinky light, Yay!

    Replaced left hand control switch- Hi-Beam now accessible! (Thanks Gamuru!)

    Re-Repaired rear brake light switch. All lights now working perfectly, better than ever in fact.
     
  12. huckersteve

    huckersteve Member

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    First post here in a while, sorry! I've been riding, just not coming online to the forum in a while since the bike is running lol!


    Okay guys, another update for you: I have STILL not fixed the oil drain threads! I'm ashamed of myself, I've been riding, and pouring oil in the top of the bike and letting it leak out the bottom for MONTHS. I am a bad person I know it.. I am here to tell you I am getting a helicoil kit this week and will attempt to effect repair at long last, and change all fluids.

    I have also again lost brake light functionality, though I retain rear runnning light illumination, and have been (dangerously) getting by with hand signals.

    Hand signals are also alas, needed for turning now as all turn light functionality disappeared shortly after installing the still functioning white spectrum 55/60w headlamp a few months back. The increased brightness at night is noticeable over the stock, yellow-casting original.

    My exhaust leaks continue to bother me and I believe the corrosion is slowly worsening- I am currently looking locally for exhaust parts to remedy this.

    I have yet to re-finish my seat but I may try to do so myself- can't imagine I could do any worse than the last guy did!

    Anyhow- thanks as always for reading, and for the great forum! I'm headed out for a ride right now, so all these things and more will have to wait till after I get home tonight!
     
  13. SLKid

    SLKid Active Member

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    Oh my goodness! You've been riding your bike for THAT long without cleaning the carbs or anything!!?? Holy crap! That gives me a lot of hope for my poor bike with 8k miles! I've done a lot of work inside the carbs and oil changes and air filters ect ect. What she needs is what you did! a Makeover. You just gave me a lot of hope dude. Thanks
     
  14. huckersteve

    huckersteve Member

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    Yep, I just keep topping up the oil and she keeps starting right up and riding. It's a real reliable bike. My friend is going to assist me with the needed helicoil work this week, then I'll be able to concentrate on some of the other stuff I need to do as well. There's also a rumor about a ride to CA in April for a motorcycle event, which I just may go for, so I better get her ship shape before that!

    Good luck with your project!
     

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