XJ Valve Adjustment

My valve train is noisy. I have the Haynes service manual. It shows the use of a holding tool to do the job. It does not show the tool or how to make one.
Can anyone help with info on where to purchase one or how to make one.

 

Chacal sells them (PM or email info @ XJ4ever.com, take the spaces out of the email address) I got mine from Bike Bandit before I discovered this site, they run around $15-$20. Or you can bend a piece of #12 insulated wire (house wiring, the heavier stuff) and stick it down the sparkplug hole to hold the valve open. I PERSONALLY DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS METHOD. Others find it perfectly satisfactory. Two things when using "the tool," one is VERY IMPORTANT: Be sure to only rotate the cam AWAY from the tool when it is bolted in place. There is enough mechanical advantage to crack the head if the cam pushes against the tool. I also discovered that the tool works much better if the cam lobe is EXACTLY centered on the bucket when installing the tool. Be sure to replace the rubber donuts on the bolts when you replace the valve cover gasket. They are KEY in getting the right hold-down pressure on the gasket itself.

 

... must you replace the valve cover gasket? or is it reusable?

if you listen to my far left pipe you can hear (what seems to me) valve tick

that is about the only time you can hear it though

and for the chain tensioner you lust loosen the bolt right?

 

you can re-use the gasket, if it's in good condition.
you must get the cam chain in the right possition before you loosen the hex nut.
remove the left cover to the crankshaft, turn the square nut anti-clockwise until the C lines up with the pointer, loosen the lock nut & tap housing, re-tighten lock nut.

 

You will probably need to replace the valve cover gasket the first time you do the procedure. Chances are it's the original and crispy at best. You should also replace the composite brass and rubber "donuts" that go on the bolts. Not only are they important as seals, they are what actually applies the pressure to hold the cover down. The bolts themselves have collars that stop them from being overtightened. Once the gasket and 'donuts" have been replaced, it should be reusable for many more adjustment cycles to come.

For the camchain tensioner: Remove the ignition cover (left side of crankcase end) turn crank CCW (forward) until the "C" mark on the plate aligns with the pointer. Loosen the lockNUT on the side of the tensioner with a 12mm deep socket. Then loosen the bolt, if it was really in need of adjusting you will hear it "click." Rap on the other side of the tensioner a couple times to be sure the plunger isn't being reluctant. Re-tighten the bolt (10mm) and torque to 6nm (52 inch/lbs); re-tighten the nut and torque to 9nm (78in/lb.) Note that these torque values represent "snug" and "slightly more snug."

 

My bike has almost 18,000 miles.
I have had the valve cover off 4 times figuring out how to do the check and adjustment process.
So far no runs, no drips and no errors.

 

Paint the Mating Surfaces of the Gasket and the Head with a light Oil ... like Marvel Mystery Oil ... so that the Gasket will "Flatten and Spread" evenly when the Cover is Bolted-down, again, and it won't leak.

 

I'm surprised no one mentioned the valve train is normally fairly noisy although I strongly recommended checking the valves anyway so you know the condition.

 

I re-used my original valve cover gasket. If it's in good shape and not torn, it is reusable. Just put a light coat of red RTV silicone on the bottom side of the gasket and let it harden for 5 minutes. Then put everything back together, but only hand tight. You want the RTV to form a gasket, and set up to a semi-hard form. Then go back in 30 minutes and tighten it down to specs.
I've used this method on numerous occasions with great success. I always make sure I put a thick enough layer of silicone on so it squeezes out just a bit to the outside. That way I know it is completely sealed. Be careful so you don't make it squeeze out to the inside of the engine however, which could cause problems. This can be accomplished by laying down a layer thin to the inside and thick to the outside. I takes a bit of practice to get it just right.
Another suggestion is to let it sit over night before running the engine. This will allow it to harden, so any beads of silicone that may have sqeezed out on the inside from getting into the valve train. Good luck!

 

I have never used a sealant on the Valve Cover. You don't need it.

Use an Artists-style paint brush and brush-on a coating of light Oil on the Mating Surface on the top of the engine.

Do the same for the bottom of the Neoprene Gasket on the Cover.

Tighten down the Cover slowly so that the Gasket will "Flatten-out" as the Oil lets it adjust itself under load.

 

Interesting idea with the oil idea!
I guess I don't have much faith in how close the tolerance is between surfaces when trying to seal somthing on an engine. I guess I will keep up using sealant witht he luck I have with it. PD