XJ550 Cafe Racer

Hi guys,

Wanted to make a thread for my project...so here it is

I bought a '82 XJ550, I want to make it a cafe racer. Had some problems with the carbs, some shucked jets...finally I found a sets of carbs from somebody who demolished his XJ550, so I decided so buy the hole set and use the old one for spares. So I cleaned the "new" ones, painted some parts, replaced all the screws, made a stand....so now I have to set the fuel level and that's it. Also I bought some air filters, they didn't fit , so now I'm trying yo find some smaller model or to make some kind of elbows for the inner ones, and I know I'm now suppose to change the air filters but the free space from the air box filter and the filters look great, I'll see about that.
I started also to disassemble the bike, I started with a slow progress, don't have a lot of free time, so it will be a long project.

I also want to post all my problems here during my built hoping that you will help me .

This is it by now. All the best

 

In case you want to get rid of your side covers, let me know.
Good luck with the build

 

I will keep them for now...The parts that I am sure that I will not use are the tail and the seat, so if anyboby wants them, I'll let them go.

 

why dont you just put the filters in a vise and flatten the sides of them so that they fit

 

I don't know, this method will not damage the filters?

 

Tried to set the fuel level in my carbs and I run in to some problems, for 2 carbs the levels was right 3-4 mm from the top of the bowl, but for the other 2 the level is somewhere half a bowl, even though I bent the tang arm down...someone know what could be the problem? Another curios thing for me: when I filled the carbs with fuel, at one point (when they were full) gasoline started to come out through here (see picture) why is that? should the carbs just stop taking fuel when all the floats are up? is true that the auxiliary fuel tank that I used was siting quite high, can that be the problem?

 

When you cleaned the carbs, did you replace the float needles and the gasket that seals the float needle seats?

 

No, I didn't, I just cleaned them. Which are the consequences?

 

Gas overflowing through the carbs.

 

That's bad....so this can be the only problem? if I will change the float needle and the gasket it will solve the problem or the overflow problem can be provoked by other things to?

 

That's bad....so this can be the only problem? if I will change the float needle and the gasket it will solve the problem or the overflow problem can be provoked by other things to?

 

So today I tried to fight with the overflow problem, thinking that might by the float needle or the gasket. Started with the first carb, I removed the bowl and filled the carbs with gas (at one point one carb just threw gas out, no. 3), I just hold the float with my finger no gas was coming out, continued with the 2nd one, still nothing, continued with the 3rd one (at one point carb no 1 threw gas out), and so on with the 4th one...not a drop of gas...So my conclusion is that is not the gaskets or the float needle....what do you guys this? My concern is what will happen when the carbs will be on the bike running, if they will threw gas out, I don't what to make a camp fire . Thanks

 

It's either the float needle/seat is leaking thru the needle, or, thru the brass valve seat itself. The valve seat is a "push-fit" into the carb body, and is sealed with a rubber o-ring around he base of the brass seat. If that o-ring is worn out, or got pinched or twisted while introducing the seat into the carb body, then it will leak fuel and overfill the bowls, even if the NEEDLE is holding firm.

 

Thanks Chacal, I will replace the o-rings to be sure and then try it again. But if this o-ring is damaged, when I removed the float bowl and put gas in the carbs, and rise the float with my finger should not gas come out from that region, or somewhere? Cause it don't.

 

Hi guys...I have some problems disassembling the forks. In the book it says: Remove the rubber cap from the top of each fork. I don't have rubber caps, I got this vent (see photo)! How can I disassemble it? I tried with a wrench but I can't turn it because of course the hole upper fork is turning, and I don't want to put it into a vice, I'm afraid that I will damage the chrome. Waiting for some solutions. Thanks

 

if you have to vise it get a towel or a few rags so you dont hurt the chrome

 

Those are not stock XJ550 forks. You appear to have some aftermarket units.
Hold off doing any work on them until you find out what they are and if parts are available for them.
Are there any markings on the lower fork legs?

 

So I went to see if there is something marked on the forks....There is a code: "Y 4G0-00", I searched it on the web, seems to be a yamaha part, can it be an european version?...Is true that the numbering of what I found it's like: Y 4G0-XXXXX-00, maybe someone will make it clear for me...and maybe someone will give me an idea how can I disassemble the forks.

 

4G0 is the part number prefix for XJ400 models, Euro XJ550 models were 4V8, 4V9, or 5F9 models, but if a bike used parts "borrowed" from an earlier model bike, then of course it would keep the original part number.

If I recall correctly, the XJ550 Euro models used a 4U8 par number for the lower fork tubes.

The XJ550 Euro models used 35mm diameter chrome fork tubes, I don't know what the XJ400 models used, it may be the same and thus no help in identification. The funky top cap is a pretty good indication that the forks have been changed at some time in the past.

 

Yes, this is not the best news for me...Is not a good sign if the forks were changed...most probably an front impact or how knows, but I inspected the neck very carefully and there is no sign of damage, welds and stuff like that. I will measure to see the exact diameter of my forks...but the thing that bothers me is that I can't open them

 

I will try wrap it in some rubber and put it in a vice, maybe it will work.

 

Victory! I manage to unscrew the cap. Now I can go on with changing the seals and oil, and to paint the lower part of the fork. I measured the forks, they are 35 mm in diameter. So I guess XJ400 used the same.

 

hello guys, problems again...I wanted to rebuild the front calipers, they are in very bas state, tried to pull the piston out and noticed that it's jammed, I did it by the book with air, hooked the caliper to the compressor with low pressure at first and nothing...I reached 8 bar and still nothing. The piston is not getting out. So now I should find some spare ones or something similar. The XJ600 has a different caliper or the same one?

 

Method #1: Use a properly threaded bolt to block off the brake line inlet. Hook up a grease gun to the bleed nipple. Commence pumping grease into the caliper. The piston will pop free.

Method #2: fill the caliper with water. Close off both the inlet and the bleed. Place caliper over propane camp stove. Stand well back and wait for the pop.

Do not attempt method #2.

 

That just make me want to try it

 

Do you guys know if the calipers from XJ600 are suitable for XJ550?

 

Hi guys, long time no see. I have two questions...
1. Does anybody know on what other yamaha models they used the front brake caliper that is on the '82 xj550? The ones that I have are jammed, plus a the bleed screw it broken. The 550 is kind of rare here, maybe I can find on some other models
2. Does somebody know how does the rear shocks are dismantling?

Thank you

 

up

 

Here is a link to a list of all the machines that brake caliper was used on. http://www.yamahapartsnation.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/23w-25810-02-00/caliper-assembly-right
The XJ600 caliper is very different and wont' bolt up, but you might be able to use them if you an have an adaptor plate made.

Have you soaked the caliper with the stuck bleed bolt in a penetration oil to try and free the bolt up? Have you tried using a grease gun to pop the pistons out of their bores?

 

Thanks k-moe! I will try that also...I also notice that a pair of second hand calipers are more cheaper that the complete restoration kit for my calipers. I will try the grease gun method. On top of that one bleed screw is broken

 

Used calipers will need to be rebuilt, so only consider them if you can't get your set ready to rebuild. The broken bleed screw can be extracted.

 

Euro spec:
Tube,outer 1 clear buffing
4G0-23126-00-38

Tube,outer 2 clear buffing
4G0-23136-00-38

Caliper assy
4L3-25810-30-00

Caliper assy
4L3-25810-20-00