XJ550 Seca, Electrical gremlins working overtime.

So, now, Bike is back together. BUT, it won't crank at all.

I'm starting to suspect there is a lot wrong, but the thing is that it's hooked up with the stock harness and everything is connected.

Anyway, thinking it was my starter solenoid/relay (after fixing the ground to my starter button) I bought a new one, but it made no difference at all.
So..
Now I figured I'm left with the safety cut off relay.
If it is the SCO-Relay, should the starter work just by removing it? (ie is it bypassed so easily or should I connect any wires to each other to bypass it's function?)

The solenoid has two wires going in, one from the starter-button and the other red/white from I'm guessing the SCO-Relay?
How would I "hot wire" it to check the new Starter solenoid?
Should both wires go to ground (-) or should the red/white go to positive (+)?


And secondly, My neutral switch is reversed (light on when in gear, and light off when in neutral and/or when the clutch-lever is puller) .. What could be the issue here? Faulty ground or have I possibly reversed something somewhere?!

I'm sorry if my writings is scrambled, I have been pulling my hair out over this issue all day.. tired and somewhat fed up!

 

Okey, the culprit has been found.
It was the Cutoff-relay that didn't close the circuit.

WHY it doesn't close is still a mystery to me, it probably has to do with the neutral switch.

 

The neutral switch thing almost makes me think maybe your diode block isn't plugged in?

Are you working from the factory wiring and circuit diagrams? If not, PM me with your email address.

 

Hmm, What does the diode block look like on the bike and where is it supposed to be located? Should the diode block give other symptoms if it doesn't work?

I have the factory service manual and a separate wiring diagram so I should be able to identify it tomorrow.

I do have to say that my bike did not come with the side stand switch and/or relay.

Thank you for helping!

 

The diode block plugs into a connector in the headlight shell. The diodes contained in it are part of different circuits, gathered together into one neat point of failure. Look at the circuit diagram as opposed to the wiring diagram to see where the diodes are in the scheme of things.

See pic below. The red circles indicate the connectors that need to be unplugged to remove the cluster; just below the lower-most one you'll notice a flat, rubber-looking block with wires coming out of it laying in the bottom of the shell. That is the diode block.

 

Okey, as I suspected, only difference is My diode block only has three wires to it, but I guess that is because of the lack of the side stand-relay etc.

Another thing I noticed today when I got the bike running is that my oil-light stays on while the bike is running, Guessing the same culprit? (or is the oil-light dependent on the cut-off relay that I'm currently bypassing?)

I'll have to do a diagnostic on the diode block and see if it works properly.


Btw, getting a flat spot around 4/5k rpm, The jets are (I'm guessing) tuned for pods and 4-1 exhaust, I have added the airbox again (with a stock paper filter) but haven't changed the jets (wanted to see how it behaved), so My first thought is a to rich mixture because of the bigger main jets, Am I somewhat correct in my theory?

 

Damn,

The service manual I have don't specify how to measure the diode block or what numbers it suppose to have. Any hints?

 

I'll look in the books when I get home. If I can't find anything, I'll disconnect one of mine and throw a meter on it.

 

You are a superstar bigfitz!

 

Golly. This IS perplexing. (Books useless.)

According to Len's "Ultimate relay, switch, sensor and diodes" guide, the diode blocks came with 3, 5, 6 or 7 wires coming out of them, depending on model.

The USA-market 550s "should" have 7 wires, black with a red tracer stripe, another black with a red tracer stripe, blue with a white tracer stripe, blue with a yellow tracer stripe, solid sky blue, solid white, and another solid white wire, all terminating into a 9-space female connector shell.

Mine (in my '83 anyway) has 7 wires; but they're black with a red tracer, white with a green tracer, blue with a white stripe, and solid white, solid yellow, solid green and solid light blue. And, as Len suggested, they do not match the harness wires they mate with.

Careful examination after sliding the rubber boot off reveals a circuit board with components on it (the diodes) "potted" in black epoxy. The black w/red wire seems to be offset from the rest of them (common maybe?) but the overall configuration makes NO sense without "un-potting" the board and I'm not going to do that.

I'm getting no sensible readings but it's impossible to tell which pairs are the diodes. I should be looking at 3 pairs but then what is the seventh wire for? Unless the diode that's shown " in" the cutoff relay is really external to it and I've got 4 diodes in there.

You've got three wires, right? which probably indicates two diodes; but which two? Look in your circuit diagram. On your bike I'm thinking it's probably the one in the clutch/neutral switch circuit and maybe the one for the headlight relay (if your have one of those.)

My next step is to draw up a chart and take readings/reversed readings on each possible pair of connectors; however that will do YOU no good since we don't know which of your three wires correspond to which of my 7.

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. :?