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XJ750 Dash Modification

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by cds1984, Dec 11, 2014.

  1. cds1984

    cds1984 Well-Known Member

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    Since the CMS is so groovy and yet lacking a couple of extra bits like a Voltmeter and a brake actuation LED, I thought to myself... fix this I can.

    Found these groovy little resin filled volt meters(2.5 - 30v) on ebay local for decent price. (ebay desc was/is
    Waterproof Mini Digital LED DC 2.5-30V Volt Voltage Meter Voltmeter Self-Powered)
    [​IMG]

    Hooked the voltmeter to the power terminals on the tachometer and the brake LED indicator neg also to the neg here(so nice and simple connection with ring terminals) and one external connection out to the brake NO(normally open) side.
    One cut, solder and heatshrink. Although I did insert the connection by using a bullet terminal set so it can be removed and the connection remade without it easily, if need be.

    RTV silicone to glue that puppy in(needs a bit of a clean up now that its dry... as does the whole dash by the looks of the picture... damn sun!)

    The dash now looks like this. I'm hoping the voltmeter isn't too bright at night, but that remains to be seen.

    [​IMG]

    So now, I'll always know if my charging system is working and I'll always know if my brake light switches are sending power to the brake light!

    For all those people that believe that more IS more :)
     
    cds1984, Dec 11, 2014
    #1
  2. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

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    That is a really awesome spot for the Volt meter. I really need to put on my Seca and I need to take apart the gauges anyway.

    As for the brake light switch, at a stop, I just put is in Neutral and hit each brake. If the neutral light doesn't dim, I know something isn't working ;)
     
    ManBot13, Dec 12, 2014
    #2
  3. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    does it read a voltage while the engine is cranking over, hooked up like that?
     
    Polock, Dec 12, 2014
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  4. cds1984

    cds1984 Well-Known Member

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    The positive for the tach hits the fuse after the main switch and the neg is common so... if there is any flow left for the gauges after the starter solenoid connects the battery directly to the starter motor... then it should.
    But, I'll check it out in a bit and report.

    Oh, BTW I did (obviously) put in a current limiting resistor for the brake actuation LED, just in case anyone was wondering.
    4.7KOhm 1/4W worked a charm.
     
    cds1984, Dec 13, 2014
    #4
  5. cds1984

    cds1984 Well-Known Member

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    On cranking it drops to 10.05 after a brief flash of about 5ish on initial button press.


    Photo of Idling on cold start. My phone seems to be hell bent on a flash to make it clear or blurry as hell on the bright bits... if I use HDR+ (whatever that is) at any rate. it looks good in the dark.

    [​IMG]
     
    cds1984, Dec 13, 2014
    #5

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