A bit of progress

I pushed the bike into the working garage today, after the wife pulled her van out.
Proceded to pull the battery out, which the positive battery bolt started to fight with me. A couple shots of wd-40, and some working it back and forth, I finally won. The case of the battery is cracked, and will be getting recycled, as I have bought a new one. I have to clean the connections up real good before I put the new one in/
Next I started taking the carbs off. What fun this was. Not real hard, just a bit of pushing and pulling. Some of the air box to carb boots have hardened. So I Took the 2 air box bolts out, which gave me some room to slide the boots off. took the throttle and enrichment cables off, gave them a little wiggle and off the came. Ya Hoo!

Looked inside the manifolds, and the left and right ones both have a small flap of rubber that has peeled away from the rest of it. No holes through them, but I need to some how repair, replace these. Sugestions?

It appears someone has had the manifolds and carbs off before. There is orange gaskets or sealer between the manifols and head, has cap screws holding the manifolds on. and 2 of the airbox to carb boots had zip ties instead of screw clamps. But the mixture screws still have their caps covering them.
Next step is to fire up the vacuum cleaner and clean more of the acorns and leaves out. Then put the better set of carbs on. Finish the wiring and charge the new battery and see how she runs, before going any further.
Sorry this is long, but I'm making progress and it feels good.

 

Here's a few pictures.

 

Sorry about the intake picture quality, I don't know why they are coming out like that. I'll have to try the other camera and see if they come out any better.

 

In these you can see the crap I need to clean out.

 

Hmm, Maybe I should have pushed it off a cliff.
Naahhh.

Looked inside the manifolds, and the left and right ones both have a small flap of rubber that has peeled away from the rest of it. No holes through them, but I need to some how repair, replace these. Sugestions?

 

Hey Stormin, I have OEM and repro intake manifolds ("rubber boots") available and in-stock:



HCP535LH OEM Yamaha rubber intake Manifold Boot, used on the two left cylinders (#1 and #2). Manifold only; you must order all accessory pieces (boot-to-head gaskets, nipple plug caps, bolts, etc.) separate. Fits all 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim, 650 Midnight Maxim, and 1982 XJ650 Seca (not turbo) models. Each:
$ 41.00

HCP536RH OEM Yamaha rubber intake Manifold Boot, used on the two right cylinders (#3 and #4). Manifold only; you must order all accessory pieces (boot-to-head gaskets, nipple plug caps, bolts, etc.) separate. Fits all 1980-83 XJ650 Maxim, 650 Midnight Maxim, and 1982 XJ650 Seca (not turbo) models. Each:
$ 37.00

HCP535SET4 OEM Yamaha rubber intake Manifold Boots, complete
set of 4 intake manifold boots (2 left and 2 right). Manifolds only; you
must order all accessory pieces (boot-to-head gaskets, nipple plug caps,2
bolts, etc.) separate. Fits all 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim, 650 Midnight Maxim,
and 1982 XJ650 Seca (not turbo) models. Set of 4:
$ 144.00


HCP77 Reproduction Yamaha rubber intake Manifold Boots,
complete set of 4 intake manifold boots (2 left and 2 right).
OEM quality at a better price! Includes a set of 4 intake
manifold-to-head gaskets. Fits all 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim,
650 Midnight Maxim, and 1982 XJ650 Seca (not turbo) models.
Set of 4:
$ 119.00


>> NOTE: these repro manifolds are excellent quality,
basically indistinguishable from the originals. However, the gaskets
that come with them are a very thin paper style, much less substantial
than the originals. You might want to buy some of the original gaskets
when ordering the repro kit.......


HCP544SET4 OEM intake manifold-to-head Gasket, used on all
XJ650 (except turbo), all XJ700 non-X, and all XJ750 models.
Set of 4:
$ 18.00


HCP548SET8 OEM intake manifold boot-to-head Bolt, black
alloy steel allen head hex-drive bolt. Use 2 per manifold, 8 per
engine. Set of 8:
$ 8.50


http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... t=135.html

 

109 views and one comment lol 8O

 

I'll pipe in. Change those intake manifolds out for new ones and get the correct clamps on the boots. A zip-tie might get you home but I would not rely upon it.
Your making good progress but beware, your going to want to clean/refurbish the whole bike the more you dig in!

 

Well, what can we say .... fix it ... it's a beautiful thing!

 

I got my intake boots on bike bandit for $79 last year.

 

We're all speechless, what can we say?

 

Why?
Cause it looks like it was buried in the vault in Oklahoma along with that 57 Chrysler?

 

The pic of your bike with the tank & seat off looks just as sad as my XJ750 did at the beginning of Oct.

Hang in there. A vacuum cleaner, lots of elbow grease & tlc will work wonders on the appearance at least

 

And don't forget a few hundred bucks worth of parts, shop towels, various solvents, and various lubricants. They always forget to tell you about that part...

 

Little more progress tonight as it's almost 11 pm and still 45 deg out.
Put the new carbs on, and got the bracket for the enrichment cable apart and moved it to the bracket on the other carb set. Looked at the fuse box again, and need break out the soldering gun and get a few connectors to finish that up.
Broke out the rag, and started cleaning more of the crap off the bike. the exhaust shines pretty well for having sat outside so long and also having rust pits in it. the rear fender didn't fair so well, as it is rusting a bit more where everything was collecting and holding the moisture against it.
I might be ready to start it before the end of the week and see how it sounds.

 

Take your time and don't rush it. You're better off doing the tough stuff than working-around something just to get it fired-up.

Once you hear the engine start (or not) ... it becomes obsessive to focus all the energy on getting that engine to run that you start taking short-cuts on things, just to hear it go.

The best course of action is to get the details you need all done to have it run and then you concentrate on tuning ... which is an all-focus-consuming adventure.

However you wind-up doing it ... I hope you nail it and it runs good!

 

I'm hoping hearing the engine run, will give me more motivation to get the rest of it all fixed up.
By the look of the indicator on the rear hub, there shoulld be no linings left on the shoes.
I stopped at the parts store today and picked up a shutoff valve for the fuel, and the connectors I need to finish the fuse box.

 

:lol:
More progress.
Read it here. -------> Progress

 

Looks like I'm done for now.
It got way to cold out to do anything.
I also was without power begining of last week for 3 days.
That was bad, and it was my responsibility, my lines are buried from the pole to the house, and guess where the line burned out?

 

I went into the Hot Stove Mode, myself. No need to buy Gas for a few months, now ... just Kerosene for the Heater at an astronomical $3.45 per Gallon.

I can't keep these old bones in the shop without the heat, though. And I have several little projects to do.

Clean the inside glass of the instrument panels.
Swap the shocks around to make adjusting the Pre-Loads easier.
Paint the Center Stand ... (try geting that thing off the bike without pulling the exhaust ... ain't gonna happen!
Coat the Exhaust Header Donuts.

Then, when Santa leaves me my new Handlebars and "Back-Off" Rear Brake Modulator ... install the Bars and wire-in the long-awaited-for Brake light Modulator.

And then, ... polish-up some of the Aluminum Covers and Cases.

I need the heat.
I'll be glad when the NCAA Final Four is on TV; too.
That means "It's getting close to 'Road-Time' again"!

 

Hey Rick.
How did that brake light modulator work out?

 

So 1 more thing done and 999 more things to do.
Today the master cylinder is rebuilt. I think the worst part of doing the rebuild was getting the snap ring back in.
So that's set. Next up is the caliper rebuild. Have the kit and the new pads already. Still have to get the two brake lines, then the front brake will be all set to go.
I have the new shoes and springs for the rear brakes, but I'm not sure I want to pull the rear wheel off just yet as I still need to get tires. Not sure if I want to pull 5 he rear wheel off twice. Haven't looked at the manual yet to see how it comes off with the shaft drive.

 

simple.....

put the bike on the center stand

1. remove the cotter pin and castle nut, and big washer on the left side of the axle
2. remove the pinch bolt on the right side of the axle
3. remove the brake rod nut, and the brake cover stay cotter pin, nut, and washer
4. rotate the brake cover backward so that the brake rod disconnects from the barrel and brake lever
(slide the barrel back onto the rod, put the nut back on so you don't lose it or the spring)
5. pull the axle out from the right side of the brake cover, don't lose the spacer

Now, kneel down by the right side of the bike and just simply pull the whole wheel/tire/brake cover assembly straight toward you. It will slide off the splines with only about and inch or so of motion, and drop to the floor. roll it out from under the bike, once the cover clears the swing arm, you can remove that. You'll probably have to tug at the tire a bit as it is a tight fit to pass the shocks.

Re-installation is simply the opposite....Push hard to get the tire to clear the shocks, then put the brake cover/shoes back in.... lift the rim up into place, and rotate/rotate/rotate until the splines line up. (tip--keep the tranny in gear, otherwise, the rear gear will rotate as well and you'll never get it to line up. Keeping it gear keeps the rear gear from turning.

I can have the back tire/rim off in less than 5 min, and back on in about the same.

These are easier and quicker than a chain-drive assembly.

Dave F

 

Everything Dave said + remove the cotter pin/nut/bolt from the brake hub stabilizer bar and rotate it down out of the way. Reminder: never re-use cotter pins. Your local auto parts store should sell a inexpensive cotter pin kit with all the pins you'll need. Hope this helps.

Gary H.

Edit: oops, spoke too soon. I think Dave mentions this in #3. My bad.

 

And, you'll probably want to remove the license plate too, so that's out of the way.

 

That's awesome guys. Thanks.
Wish I had tomorrow off I would have the back brakes done. But got mandated to work tomorrow.

 

Yeah, I did mention it, but that's ok.... Doesn't hurt to mention again.

I do sometimes take the license off, other times just ease it out, other times when I feel real energetic I put a piece of wood under the center stand at that give s the clearance too----

 

Going to soak the bolts and nuts first before trying to take them off. So there is no funny left hand thread on any of this?
Any torque specs for the axle nut, and axle pinch bolt when I reassembled?

 

standard direction for the threads.....righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. You can go for spec torques if you want, but I do it like I do on my cars:

Here's my approach--
1. After the rim is on, and the axle is in, having made sure the long spacer is still inside the rear gear, and the washer/spacer/collar is against the outside of the brake cover, brake stay arm is re-installed, rear brake linkage is hooked up------I put the transmission in neutral and tighten down the washer and castle nut until it's quite snug but not strong-armed, all while rotating the rim. the spacer inside will prevent the rim from binding up, but I can "feel" when the drag starts although it's really just about imperceptible. Then, I back the nut of about half a turn, maybe a bit more, then snug it one more time. Then I back it off just one 'notch' and put the cotter pin in.

2. now, around to the right side of the bike to snug down the pinch bolt. I take that down til it's snug and I see the gap tighten against the axle shoulder, then torque it a bit more so it's good and snug.

3. Finally, I set the brake pedal so that the rim stops almost instantly when I press on the pedal. Usually only about half an inch motion. When the bike is on the ground, it translates to more like an inch of motion, but I like a very close brake pedal.

dave F

 

Similar to doing an older cars front brake drum rotor wheel bearing adj.
What type of oil do you use on the clutch cable?

 

I let kroil run down through.

 

I must be the only one who pulls the right shock to get the wheel out

 

Must be.....

 

On the clutch cable?
Thought that was a Penetrating oil?

 

Exactly. It's an oil, a lubricant, and it penetrates.

 

Good to know. Thanks

 

Pulled the rear wheel off. Took a bit of wiggling to get it loose from the spline.
I think it was time to change the shoes. This must be why the adjuster was cranked all the way.
Check those brake shoes!
Yes I read the post on them delaminating

 

Should the spring on the pedal return the pedal to the up position with the rod disconnected? I would think so, but mine doesn't.

 

Still looking for kroil. Local hardware store and auto parts store doesn't carry it.
Do you use the Silicon, graphite, aero kroil?

 

I think the "spring on the pedal" is the one for the brake light switch, and is not meant to pull the pedal up.
The spring on the rod adds resistance to bring the pedal up to the resting position.

I found the Kroil through Eastwood.
http://www.eastwood.com/kroil-penetrating-oil.html

Tony

 

There is the little spring on the brake switch, but there is the big coiled spring on the back of the Parker pedal pivot shaft----- THAT one is the pedal return spring. If gypsy isn't working right, either it's broken, or more likely --- the pivot shaft is way dry and/or full of corrosion and dirt. It must be pulled, cleaned, and greased.

Dave F

 

That's the one. I will pull the shaft out soon and clean and grease it. I got it to return to the up position. But still a little drag to it.
New brake shoes are in and it's all back together. The original springs are a bit bigger. Can't wait to take it for a ride down the driveway tomorrow.

 

Looks better.

 

So I forgot to point out the return spring on the pivot. Glad Hogfiddles picked up on that.

Note to self: Only post advise while sober, and look at the bike before doing so.

Good thing you checked those rear brake shoes.

 

Had to check them. The bike was sitting way to long. I am going through the brakes front and rear. Then it's on to the rest of my list.

 

Do I understand this thread right? The first posts where in 2007 and we're getting updates now?

If so, there's precedent for my project taking a while! Old bikes are so low on the priority list for a family man I tell yah!

Thanks Stormin.

P.S. That's about the same condition my 650 was in when I got it back. You HAVE to take those down to the frame IMHO. Like mine.

 

Yes you are correct. Started this thread in 2007. Things happened and we moved so the bike was in storage for 7 years. Somewhere in October I got to see and sat on my friends harley. A couple weeks later the xj is finally out of storage and progress is being made.
Tomorrow the front caliper will come off and get rebuilt and new pads put on.
Shooting for spring to have all the mechanicals worked out and have it back on the road. It won't be pretty yet, but it will be mine.
Took it down the driveway a few times today, it felt good.
Before I drove it I noticed that the left side upper shock acorn nut and washer were missing. Where it went and why it was missing is beyond me. I didn't take it off, and the threads are clean. Not like it had been missing long. Went to the hardware store and got a nut and washer to hold it for now. But now I need to find the correct ones.

 

Today I took the caliper completely off. It's been just hanging out on the side of the wheel for a week.
Had to clean the bleeder screw out because it was packed full of crap.
Used the grease gun trick on the bleeder screw with the hose side plugged. Pushed that piston right out.
Lol. Now the grease gun is stuck on the bleeder screw.
I'll get it off, I just think it's funny. On to cleaning up the caliper this weekend.

 

Didn't get to clean the caliper up yet. I did put new front coil springs on my wife's van.
Looks like the caliper needs a good cleaning.

 

Uh... Yeah it does!!