HOW TO: Test your starter circuit

Start with the bike on the center stand with side stand up and the transmission in neutral. You will also want the ignition switch turned to on and the kill switch turned to on. The numbers in the picture coincide with the steps listed below.

​

1. Test the voltage at the battery. It should read at least 12.5 volts. Charge and retest as needed.

2. Using an old screwdriver, short across the two large terminals at the starter solenoid. This will bypass the solenoid and allow the starter to crank the engine. If the starter doesn't crank, perform a continuity test between the negative battery terminal and the engine case. If you read no resistance (or almost no resistance), repair or replace the starter. Otherwise, repair or replace the ground cables and retest.

​

3. Locate the pigtail from the starter solenoid and unplug it. Using a jumper lead, hook the Red/White wire from the solenoid to the battery's positive terminal. Using another jumper lead, hook one end to the solenoid's Blue/White wire. Momentarily touch the other end of this lead to the battery's negative terminal. If the solenoid is functioning properly, the solenoid should click and the starter should begin cranking the engine. Repeat this step several times to ensure the integrity of the solenoid. If nothing happens, repair or replace the starter solenoid.

(h/t the bap3826)​

4. If the solenoid checks out, hook your continuity tester between the battery's ground terminal and the Blue/White wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter solenoid (solenoid pigtail unplugged). It should read an open state while the starter button is not pressed. When you push in the starter button, the tester should then read a closed state. If there's no change, inspect, clean, or replace the starter button switch and its ground and retest.

5. Using your voltmeter, hook its ground wire to the battery's negative terminal and its positive wire to the Red/White wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter solenoid (solenoid pigtail unplugged). The meter should read 12 volts (approx.) if the bike is in neutral, and/or the clutch lever is squeezed and side stand is up with the key on and the kill switch on. If not, inspect the wire coming from the starter circuit cut-off relay for any breaks or chaffing. If the wire looks good, go to the next step.

6. Remove the left-hand side cover to gain access to the starter circuit cut-off relay (NOTE: your relay's location may be located elsewhere such as under the fuel tank). Using your voltmeter, hook its ground wire to the battery's negative terminal and its positive wire to the Red/White wire coming from the kill switch (starter circuit cut-off relay pigtail unplugged). The meter should read 12 volts (approx.) if the ignition switch is on and the kill switch is on. If not, you will need to inspect, clean or replace the 20A Main fuse, the ignition switch, the kill switch, or the wiring between them. If you measure 12 volts (approx.), go to the next step.

(h/t the bap3826)​

7. Hook your continuity tester between the battery's ground terminal and the Sky Blue wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter circuit cut-off relay (relay pigtail unplugged). It should read an open state while the transmission is in gear. When you shift into neutral, the tester should then read a closed state. If there's no change, inspect, clean, or replace the neutral switch and its ground and retest. If it checks out, proceed to the next step.

8. Hook your continuity tester between the battery's ground terminal and the Black/Yellow wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter circuit cut-off relay (relay pigtail unplugged). It should read an open state while the clutch lever is released and/or the side stand is down. When you squeeze the clutch lever and the side stand is up, the tester should then read a closed state. If there's no change, inspect, clean, or replace the clutch and side stand switches and their grounds and retest. If they check out, proceed to the next step. (Note: some models may not have a side stand switch.)

9. If all previous tests have passed, replace the starter circuit cut-off relay and try to start the bike again. If it still doesn't start, have your bike exorcised of demons by a Catholic priest and retest as there's really nothing else that would keep your bike from cranking over.

 

as you wrote...."
4. If the solenoid checks out, hook your continuity tester between the battery's ground terminal and the Blue/White wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter solenoid (solenoid pigtail unplugged). It should read an open state while the starter button is not pressed. When you push in the starter button, the tester should then read a closed state. If there's no change, inspect, clean, or replace the starter button switch and its ground and retest.

Solenoid checks out. The solenoid pig tail on the harness side, with ig. "on", in neutral, KS up, I get a couple volts shy of batt voltage- 10.5 at r/w, the SAME at the blue/w wire, but it made my test light dimmer than r/w. Putting my analog ohm meter on it, I get about 60 ohms between blue/w and earth, which DOSNT change when I push the starter button.... I have taken the starter button out of the casing & cleaned it w/ contact cleaner, & the contacts are bright & shiney. does this ring any bells? If it were me, Id just run the push button leads directly to the solenoid, cutting out all the "safties"- managed toride 35 years without them. But its not my bike, & is getting sold, & its endless idiot "features" have to be intact.....

 

...except the Dark Side of the Force.

 

I unplugged the relay under the left side cover. r/w- batt voltage. in neutral, kickstand up, clutch pulled in or out, zero volts on the blue wire with black trace (the other two wires are all black or all white)
To see if indeed its the relay, I made a jumper wire & commected the r/w & the blu/w wire on the harness side. Turn on ignition: headlight came on. Push button- nothing, nothing at all......
the harness on the bike is in good shape, not ratty or oil soaked.
going back into the switch, Im getting only about 7 volts at the blue/w soldered terminal....i had before just checked it with a light. it goes to zero when I push the button.
So, low voltage at the button, AND voltage on both legs of the starter solenoid pig tail, with the ground leg showing 60 ohms.....
Imbeginning to fear its some internal short in the charging system or something else dangerously expensive.

 

That sounds like the headlight relay wires. I think you're looking at the wrong harness.

 

its the one mounted under the ignitor, as per the pic...but its not a Maxim, so there may be a difference there.
the machine has the cylindrical starter relay, next to the starter, the one I mentioned, under the ignitor, & an identicle one on top of the frame, under the rear of the tank. i deduced the under-tank one was tied to the ks & clutch lever. I think.
I guess the next step is getting under the instrument cluster, to .........what?
I dunno.
see why the push button hot wire only got 6 volts.....the lead goes under there....i dread opening that up....
way back when she bought the bike in the first place, I was doing a bunch of service & put a on/off switch in the headlamp ground lead, so you have a way of turning off the headlight in case of some low voltage situation- you can get home by killing the headlamp.
this thing is giving me a headache. Its a damn favor, too: no $ execpt for parts. You'd think Id have that "never volunteer" thing down after the Army, but noooooooo.

 

and I just found another identicle relay, next to the coils, under the frame backbone. This one clicks when I cycle the kill switch.

 

OK- I see why the blue/w wire at the start button shows 6-7 volts- the current is passing thru a relay coil. As you said, the starter button is the tip of the tail, not the snout....so Im thinkin the problem lies in the odd reading I get at the starter solenoid proper: I get batt voltage (minus a tad) on the r/w wire, but voltage is ALSO present at what should be the ground wire, with 60 odd Ohms of resistance between the ostensible ground wire & ground, which dosnt change when I push the button.

When I/we suss this out, itll make a dandy addition to your starter FAQ......

 

Relays are in different positions on different models. My factory manual incorrectly identifies them.

On my 82 650 Maxim that relay just behind the coils is the sidestand relay, and it does indeed give a healthy click.

There will be a connector where the wire from the start button plugs into the harness (likely behind the headlamp). Based on your readings (and assuming the switch itself is in good shape) I bet you find a problem near that connector. Maybe the thing is unplugged and laying up against the housing giving you that ground with 60 ohms resistance. Or maybe it is corroded and you have an additional short somewhere.

MUTT, which Maxim do you have? Please put the info in your signature line.

 

its not a Maxim, its the Seca, which I THINK has a different frame. Its a short run factory cafe bike, with rear sets & low bars.
Aint got the chops to figure out how to post a sig line.....
Next stop: headlight bucket........

 

While you're in there use your meter to check the wire up to the start button. Infinite resistance without pressing the button, 0 ohms when button is pressed.

You're not using an auto ranging meter are you? If so, you might be mistaken about that 60 ohm reading.

 

dont know what you mean by "auto ranging". Its an analogue (dial) type, served me well some 20 years. I take the ohms to be a ballpark figure....plus minus a few %
The start push button has been cleaned w/ contac points cleaner, its got a zero ohm ground side.

 

MUTT, did you perform step three? And, if so, what happened?

1. If the starter solenoid did nothing, it's toast. Replace it and retest.

2. If the starter engaged and cranked the engine, then we'll set up to check the starter button.

3. To test the starter button, hook a jumper wire between the solenoid pigtail's Red/White wire and the battery's positive terminal. Hook another jumper wire between the solenoid pigtail's Blue/White wire and the bike's Blue/White wire that the solenoid pigtail would normally plug into. Making sure the bike is in neutral, press the starter button.

The starter should crank the engine over as we've bypassed all the safety features except the starter button. If the starter doesn't crank, you've got a problem with your starter button, its wiring, or its grounds.

 

Those are two COMPLETELY DIFFERENT Relays.
One is a Standard Relay for a High Amp Open-Closed Circuit.
The other is the SAFETY Relay.

The Contacts on the Safety Relay are not the same configuration as a Power Relay.

I did the Comparison on these two a long time ago when I had the pattern saved on my PC. I don't have much of anything saved on the PC on this MAC.

Search: "Safety Relay"
Author: "Rickcomatic"

You'll see the patterns are different and why they test differently with the Multimeter.

(As you look at the relay's spade connections ... with the locking slot at the top ... there's four HORIZONTAL spades. Two rows of two.

The generic relay gets its low-voltage triggering current -- across the TOP two. Those two are Side-by-side.

The Safety relay, viewed the same way, gets the low volts across the two spades on the LEFT. Both LEFT side ones. Over and under.)

 

yup- I did Step 3, & the engine turned over every time.
Im gonna bypass all this stuff & run a wire between the blue & w wire at the cylindrical starter relay, and the blue/w lead in the headlamp bucket that goes to the start button. I guess whatever the problem is will remain a mystery.....

 

MUTT, don't give up now! Success is just around the corner.

Did you do this next step?

Likewise, if you don't want to bother with all that, you could hook a test light between the battery's positve terminal and the bike's Blue/White wire that the solenoid pigtail would normally plug into. The test light should not be on until you press the starter button. If it is, then you've got a short somewhere. If it never turns on or turns on but it's real dim, you've got issues with your switch/wires/grounds.

Bypassing the wire from the solenoid to the headlight bucket connection may work--as long as the problem is in that piece of wire running between those two points. If the problem is in the switch or its ground, you've wasted your time. Remember, at this point, we're still looking for problems; not solutions. Solutions can only be had once the problem has been correctly identified. Doing it your way only results in throwing money, time, and parts at the bike in the hopes that something will fix it.

Saying, "The bike won't start" may be factually correct, but it involves way too many details to accurately diagnose the problem. Therefore, we must break that larger problem down into more manageable sizes. In this case, we're looking at a starter circuit comprised of several separate parts. We can further break down that problem by testing at some halfway point in the circuit. In our case, that would be the starter solenoid. If we can determine the problem exists either before or after the solenoid, we've effectively eliminated half the potential culprits. In other words, we're breaking our problem down through the process of elimination.

We've only got a finite number of pieces that can cause our problem. By eliminating each piece, we'll eventually run into the offending part(s). We can either find them by starting at the battery and sequentually checking every piece along the circuit--which would be very time consuming--or we can divide the circuit up and eliminate whole sections through testing. Using the evidence given by you (having to stab the starter button repeatedly), I suspect that the problem is with the starter button or at least on that side of the starter solenoid.

You've tested the solenoid and you said it tested good. That means we've got but two directions to go. Either the starter solenoid isn't getting power on the Red/White wire from the starter circuit cut-off relay, or the problem is with the starter button/wiring/ground. From your original complaint, I would chose to look in this direction first. To confirm this direction, we would complete Step 5 from above. Power on the Red/White wire? Yes? Look at the starter button, etc. No? Look at the starter circuit cut-off relay, etc.

Yeah, it's just that easy. A big problem broken into smaller and smaller problems until you find the culprit. Once the culprit is found, you can come up with a solution and get back to riding.

 

I do/have belonged to many m/c forums.

This one is the BEES KNEES

So many helpful, knowledgeable folks willing to help someone with a problem.

 

Also, rule-out a couple of Gremlins that bite these Bikes in particular.

The Clutch Safety Switch can suddenly go bad or become intermittent. The Switch can either hang-up and send a signal to the Safety Circuit that the Clutch Lever isn't pulled ... or, it can "Shift" from being loose in there and not be operating as it should at all.

Likewise, the Side Stand Switch often gets hung-up; too. The Switch is dependent on the Activating Rod which can become stuck in its travel and keep the Side Stand Switch OPEN ... even though the Side Stand is UP.

The Rod protrudes through a drilled passage above the Side Stand Pivot Bolt. The passage sometimes gets closed-off with dirt and debris that the Rod does not have its full travel to let the Switch Close.

In BOTH Cases, the Safety Circuit is fooled and the Bike will fail to Start and/or the Starter Motor is disabled until those two switches are working properly.

 

Oh fer jeezum crow.
The bright, shiney, cleaned with contact cleaner, blown with air, dry, push button contacts pass just enough juice to read on my multimeter do not, actually, conduct enough electricity to catch the solenoids attention. .
jeez. i cant make these any brighter or shiner, so i need another button.
Dealer sez every warehouse in the Republic has a few in stock, attached to the housing- 91 bucks.
Think ill try to fix this one, or find some generic replacement (hah!)
Thanks for all the heavy duty noodling.....

 

Has anyone tried these guys for parts? PartsNMore

I haven't myself; but a friend has and says they're good. They have starter switches for $6.00 (for a 650 anyway). Of course, there is a minimum order of $35.00 so you'd have to order some other items.

Bruce

 

Gamurur, your information was excellent. Searched the forum and this thread came up as a result.

Found the problem with my bike-starter relay. Saved me a lot of time.

Thanks again,

-MaximXJ

 

Hello, New to the forum, and not a good "rench turner"..My xj700X, won't start, after riding a few miles. Starter or solenoid will "click", and sometimes will startup, but I can let it sit overnight, and it will turn the motor over although not very robustly, and fire up fine. New battery, and it started good for a couple of months after the battery repalced. Seems like when it is started in the am it is fine, but the motor heat kills the starter is this possible?..I read and re-read the testing the starter circuit, but, I'm not very good with a test meter, would appreciate an educated guess as to my trouble.. thanks for any responses..

 

Just picked up a 83 Maxim for cheap, but could not start it first since there was no battery. I picked up a battery at Sears (type 14L-A2). filled the cells and charged it at least 4 hours per instructions. Installed the battery and cranking over engine over. I hear the solenoid clicking and the starter trying to run when I turn on the ignition key and hit the start button, but it's not cranking the engine. Holding in the clutch doesn't help. Kickstand is up. Could the engine be seized. No foot crank so I'm not sure how to crank the engine by hand. Rear tire is flat and will not hold air, so I couldn't push start it. Is it OK to push start shaft drives? Manual is in the mail, so I'm relying on this forum for information in the mean time. By the way, what's the trick to removing the rear wheel so I can deal with the flat tire.

 

ok got a question. i think Ive pinpointed it down to my starter solenoid. I just want to make sure. I have 12.7v at the battery. I go to hit the starter button and the starter solenoid clicks but wont turn the starter. I short the starter solenoid posts with a screw driver and it starts no problem. does this mean the starter solenoid is bad?
also, i have traced the blue/white wire from the starter button back through the bike and all connections are good.
I would appreciate any help
BTW this how to thread is GREAT!! I now have something to do to my bike without completely ripping it apart.
thanks
joshw

 

If it starts when you short the solenoid then it is probably your problem...

 

12.7 Volts don't mean nothing!
There's almost 10 Volts in a Smoke Detector Battery!

You need AMPS to Crank the Starter.
See if the Battery passes a Load Test.

Charge it full.
Bring it to a Garage or Auto parts Store.
See what it has in terms of Cranking Amps!

 

The Amp Hour rating tells you how much amperage is available when discharged evenly over a 20 hour period. The amp hour rating is cumulative, so in order to know how many constant amps the battery will output for 20 hours, you have to divide the amp hour rating by 20. Example: If a battery has an amp hour rating of 75, dividing by 20 = 3.75. Such a battery can carry a 3.75 amp load for 20 hours before dropping to 10.5 volts. (10.5 volts is the fully discharged level, at which point the battery needs to be recharged.) A battery with an amp hour rating of 55 will carry a 2.75 amp load for 20 hours before dropping to 10.5 volts.
Ergo, we need to ask is your battery fit for purpose?

 

Wiz, you frighten me sometimes...

The "checks ok for continuity but won't carry enough juice to do anything" has bit me a couple of times.

 

i have charged the battery to 100% using a maintenance free charger and a battery that was made for motorcycles. load test at auto zone says the battery is "like new, you shouldn't have a problem starting".
ha if only he knew
ok so my battery checks out but still same problem
?solenoid?
thanks for the help

 

Guys all good advice but he said it clicks but won't start - starts fine if he shorts the solenoid. So battery is fine

Its the solenoid. Josh there is a lot of current passes through the solenoid and it tends to arc. If you took it apart ( not easy) you would see the contacts are pitted and blackened. You can file them clean but you have to unsolder the tiny wires which break easy to get it apart. I got a used one off ebay and it works great. I also repaired my old one. It is a pain.

 

My money's on Bill's diagnosis. If you performed step three on the previous page and the starter still didn't crank, the solenoid is most certainly bad and needs to be replaced.

 

hey guys thanks for the help, once again the xj forums have given me transportation.
"one fresh solenoid commin' up!"

 

Gamaru,

great write-up, but there is an error that cost me several hours of frustration. On the XJ650, the starter cut-off relay is under the gas tank, not under the rectifier. The one under the rectifier is something else completely

 

I've been told that depending on which bike, model, and year your relay's location will vary. Sorry about the frustration and loss of time. I'll edit the original post to warn future readers about the pitfall.

 

ALL RELAYS, ALL THE TIME, OR.....:

How to tell one small can-style relay from another:



Headlight Latching Relays:

hlr1) OEM headlight system HEADLIGHT RELAY. This relay prevents the headlight from coming on while the starter motor is being engaged, thus allowing maximum battery voltage to be used by the starter and the ignition system. However, it is dependant on voltage draw in order to energize and "latch" into the on position, and thus if the engine gets spinning fast enough during the starting process (whether the engine fires or not), enough voltage will be produced by the alternator (which increases its output with RPM's) to clamp this relay, and thus pass current to the headlamp. Also, once latched on, on some models the headlight circuit remains on until the ignition switch is turned fully off.....thus, if you (for example) stall the bike, and hit the starter button, this relay will remain latched and the headlight WILL remain lit during the starting process. Only by turning the key to the off position can you de-energize this relay (and thus turn the headlight off).

Identification: The Headlight Relay is a small square metal "can" relay, and has a small yellow paint "dot" or yellow locking tab, and has the following 4 wires connected to it:

- XJ550 all models and XJ650 all models except Turbo: a solid black wire, a solid white wire, a blue wire with a black tracer stripe, and a red wire with a yellow tracer stripe.

- XJ750 Seca models: a solid black wire, a white wire with a blue tracer stripe, a blue wire with a black tracer stripe, and a red wire with a yellow tracer stripe.

NOTE: original relays were always a square metal can style, although they may have been replaced by an automotive style plastic relay.




ssr1) OEM safety system SIDESTAND SAFETY SWITCH RELAY.

Identification: The Sidestand Safety Switch Relay is a small square metal "can" relay, has a blue paint "dot" by the locking tab, and has the following 4 wires connected to it:

- XJ550 all models, 1982-84 XJ650 all model, XJ700 all models, XJ750 all models, XJ900RK Seca models, and XJ1100 models: a solid black wire, a red wire with a white tracer stripe, a black wire with a white tracer stripe, and a blue wire with a yellow tracer stripe.

NOTE: original relays were always a square metal can style, although they may have been replaced by an automotive style plastic relay.






nss1) OEM safety system NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH RELAY. This relay is also called a starting circuit cut-off relay or an ignition cut-off relay, depending which manual you are reading!

Identification: The Neutral Safety Switch Relay is a small square metal "can" relay, has no paint "dot" by the locking tab, and has the following 4 wires connected to it:

- XJ550 all models, XJ650 all model, XJ750 all models, and XJ1100: a solid light blue wire, a red wire with a white tracer stripe, another red wire with a white tracer stripe, and a black wire with a yellow tracer stripe.

- XJ900RK Seca models: two solid light blue wires ganged together into one terminal slot, two red wires with a white tracer stripe ganged together into one terminal slot, a white wire with a red tracer stripe, and a black wire with a yellow tracer stripe.

NOTE: original relays were always a square metal can style, although they may have been replaced by an automotive style plastic relay. THIS RELAY IS A SPECIALIZED DESIGN AND THE USE OF A STANDARD RELAY IS DANGEROUS!-----it will allow the safety function to be defeated and could result in different operation from what is intended.





Turn Signal Relays and Cancellers:

tsrs1) OEM turn signal system FLASHER and SELF-CANCELLER RELAY. In order to design a "self-canceling" turn signal system, Yamaha chose to use a simple but very different style turn signal Flasher than what is used in almost all other vehicle applications. Of course, the unique design of this flasher unit makes it, let's say, "pricey" to say the least! However, if you want your self-canceling feature to work then you'll have to use this original flasher. NOTE: you can use generic aftermarket mechanical or solid-state flashers in place of the original flasher, but the aftermarket flashers will prevent the self-canceller feature from operating.

Also, if you substitute LED bulbs in your turn signals for the standard incandescent bulbs, then the stock flasher (which is mechanical) will not see enough of an electrical load to be able to flash correctly, if at all. In such a situation, the stock flasher is not defective, it is just designed to operate at a much higher voltage draw than LED lights provide. In such a situation, you would have to replace the stock flasher with an aftermarket solid-state flasher, which will also defeat the self-canceller feature of the original system.

Identification: The Flasher is contained in a large, rectangular black hard-plastic "box" housing, and has the following 3 wires connected to it: a solid brown wire, a brown wire with a white tracer stripe, and a yellow wire with a green tracer stripe. This applies to all models except XJ700 models. NOTE: except for the XJ700 models, all XJ550, 650, 750, 900RK, and 1100 models used the same flasher internals, BUT, the plastic external "case" (which is removable, by the way) differs by the location of the mounting "tab" or "hook": the 550/1100 models have the hook on the TOP of the plastic case, while the 650/760/900 models have the hook on the big, flat "side" of the case.

The Self-Canceller Relay is a rectangular, sealed, rubber-coated box with 6 wires coming out of it into a connector: a solid tan wire, two (2) white wires with a green tracer stripe, a yellow wire with a green tracer stripe, a yellow wire with a red tracer stripe, and a white wire with a red tracer stripe.

By the way, the self-canceller operates off both time AND distance measurements to determine when it should cancel the flashers.....a minimum of 10 seconds time and 150 meters (about 400 feet) distance. BOTH criteria must be met before the canceller releases the signal flasher.




Finally, note that the entire bike's "safety" system (depending on model) is made up of the sidestand SWITCH, the sidestand safety RELAY, the neutral SWITCH, the neutral switch RELAY, the clutch hand lever position SWITCH, and a DIODE BLOCK or two to run the whole shooting match.



Also, some people refer to the STARTER SOLENOID as a STARTER RELAY, and either one is correct, since within that one unit is both a relay and a solenoid, but of course there is no mistaking this round fellow for one of the square style relays.

 

I believe that on my 650, the one under the rectifier, is the headlight latching relay. The relay has the yellow "locking tab" although it doesn't really lock.

I was a bit confused working on the starter (cut-off) relay. Having two matching red/white wires, I wasn't sure which one to test per the instructions, so I just tested them both. <grin>

 

Just remember, you identify the RELAY by what color paint dot (or no color at all) is present on or around the tab.

You identify the CIRCUIT by seeing what combination of wire colors are present at the connector.

Many of these can-style relays will physically fasten into another circuits connector.

A more logical fail-safe approach would have been to use different shaped terminal for each unique relay, so there could be no accidental "interchanging" of them.

 

I know this is an old thread, but It has great info and this is an issue I am currently dealing with. My bike has a peculiar problem, with multiple parts, which I'm not sure if they are linked together or not. On some occasions, the starter will not engage at all and I have to mash the starter button to get it to do anything. When this happens, it will act like the switch is dirty/corroded and needs some care. Other times, it will engage the starter and the starter will stay engaged long after I release the button. Sometimes even after the bike has started. When this happens, it makes no difference what I do. I can shut off the kill switch, turn off the key, mash the starter button in case it is stuck, nothing stops it. It will randomly stop itself once its done having its fit.

I have replaced the starter switch internals from an extra horn switch I had laying around and it did not change the constant engagement, but seems to have helped the intermittent lack of response. I also pulled the solenoid and hook up a jumper to both terminals. It clicks and releases as I make contact as normal. I originally thought it was the solenoid, but now I'm not sure. Anyone have some guidance on how I can disassemble it and clean it? Or a better idea on what it could be?

 

It's the solenoid - get a new one for around $20.00

If you tap on it while it's stuck "closed", it should release.
Internally, the plunger is making a welded contact that the spring is supposed to overcome. Everything is dirty in there and it can't conveniently be cleaned.

 

I appreciate the feedback. Thank you for the help. In the mean time, is there a way to open it up and clean it out? I have read that a few people on here have done it, but I cant find any how to. I will order one, but I JUST got it legal yesterday, I would like to ride it this weekend. Maybe I will just rig something safe until I can.

 

Leave the side-cover at home and keep a 1/2 inch wrench in your hip pocket (for crossing the solenoid). To clean it, you have to un-solder, and re-solder some contact, and it doesn't seem to be worth the effort.

 

I picked one up at Napa that I made work. All go good now. Now I gotta figure out the surging idle. Thought I had it ironed out when I balanced the carbs, but not so much

 

Disclaimer: I am new to motorcycles (especially diagnosing electrical).

In step two you describe arcing the solenoid. I tried that step and I get no spark or click from the solenoid. The solenoid does click when I use the starter button. Does that mean I have an issue with the solenoid or the starter?

It seems to me that the the solenoid is not being bypassed when I use a screwdriver. Is that possible?

It seems that step 3 would help me diagnose the solenoid, but I don't fully understand how to perform it. Are you talking about using jumper cables? Or is a jumper lead something more specific? Can I use jumper cables from a car? It seems like they would be too bog for this application.

With most solenoids costing $10, I'd rather just buy one and try it out as opposed to buying anymore tools (aka jumper leads).

Thanks for your help.

 

I believe the problem is your starter. I had the same conditions, click on starter press, but shorting solenoid posts gave me nothing. Rebuilt my starter and all was well.

 

Okay...

I got a new starter on. Now, when I bypass the solenoid with a screwdriver the starter will turn over. However, when I try and start from the start button all I get is a click in the solenoid relay. No starter action.

Does this mean I need a new relay? I have not performed #3 because I didn't understand how to do it, but now I think I have figured it out. You are proposing taking a piece of wire and connecting he pigtail to the battery? Essentially giving the relay direct juice from the battery.

For the record, this is all with a new battery.

Help!

 

I Realize the age of this thread /post but just to help clarify when you short your starter solenoid you look at it you will see two nuts that hold the thick cables on, these nuts are larger than any other nut or screw heads that can be seen. And are usually the same size as each other. What you want to do is take a insulated screw driver hold it in a semi horizontal ( laying flat ) position and touch both of these large nuts at the same time, You will get sparks, And be sure the bike is ready to start ,Like clutch in, or in neutral gear, side stand up ,etc. Be ready as it should cause your engine to start turning just like a normal start.

 

Been riding my bicycle to work for two weeks. Found this HOW TO, and just got it running as easy as pie. Just perfect. Thanks.

 

To Misterhare : if you are still having trouble and from your last post yes it sounds like your solenoid is indeed one of your problems replace that thing and try again, Maybe that is all you need.

 

bump, please make this a sticky

 

This is great help.
I've just picked up a Xj600 s 4br
It's a non runner and with this info, I've been able to cross solinoid which makes engine crank. I've now found there's no earth getting to the blue and white wire.
Checking the starter relay it's full of water and the blue and white terminal is broken off.
I've ordered new relay