Steber's Cantankerous Wiring Conundrum

check your new relay for hot and load markings load would be to the control

brown wire is the hot wire

 

I sort of lucked out that when I plugged the electronic flasher into the stock plug it really only goes in 2 ways. One works, the other didn't. Actually I did pay attention to the wire colors and installed accordingly I just don't remember what they are off the top of my head

 

Both these grounds get hooked up to the coil bracket bolt, one to each bolt, correct? They were up towards the top of the main harness. Pretty sure I can mount them anywhere to the frame, just for some reason (up top) I only remember one?

I know theirs some they mount to the case/battery but Im confident thats not these.

 

I only have one on my coil have always thought it was from the voltage regulator, but yes any good bolt source to frame shuch as the coil mounts will do.
now I have to go look to see if I have 2 on my 550s.
going to work now .

 

I'll trace them back further later on and see where they all tie into. their are two ground junction areas in the harness, not sure if one leads to each.

Now I'm working on the main ground off the battery, i seem to remember it ran to the engine on engine case bolt 28/29 (i think) at any rate, theirs a smaller gauge ground that breaks off on this as well looks like it attached to a bolt somewhere, since the thicker goes to the engine case, should i just find a spot on the frame to attach it, eliminate it, or what? Its hard to visualize the part of the frame i chopped off, and i knew i'd face a few of these 'that part of the frame isn't there any more', so I didnt bother to take too many picture of this.. hindsight i should have atleast took more than i did.

 

Doesn't have to be exactly like factory as long as it's wired correctly. The heavy wire from the battery should go to the engine, the starter is the highest amp draw from the battery. From there you do need a cable from the engine to the frame. You can run a heavier wire (12ga) up to the same point that you hook those ground wires too, just make sure the frame connection is clean.

 

The larger wires that attach to the eyelet terminals can be thought of as the backbone that provides the ground or return for all the circuits. Those larger wires will have taped areas within the main harness bundle where other grounds are crimped to the backbone and covered with tape. Every circuit ( headlight, tail light, brake light, horn, TCI, flashers, indicator bulbs, regulator, relays, switches, etc) will tie to the backbone in order to find a return to the frame, which is tied to battery negative through both the engine and the alternate single ground from engine to frame on some bikes. If you shorten or lengthen any of the ground wires be sure to pay attention as to what gauge wire was originally used to provide a return for that particular circuit. For example, the regulator typically has a direct path of 14ga wire to chassis ground.

 

Are the engine mounts a good enough source of a connection of the ground? Granted the two eyelets mount to the frame (I'll place one on each coil bolt), so I guess the third eyelet on the bottom should mount to frame too, the smaller 14 gauge that is. I have been very cautious of the wire guage. Going to have to shorten the larger thick gauge on the starter solenoid to starter and also lengthen the other side of the solenoid to the battery for positive. I think the ground circuit was long enough to make the reaches. I don't have any size terminals to crimp so I'll have to make a run for those. I have an old amp power cable I might use as the new line for the battery to starter solenoid.. it's too short and not fond of it being black, and my new wire is red. I'd have to maybe strand count, but it looks heavy duty enough.

 

the small wire goes to a bolt that holds battery box in place bottom front of box.
iirc it is 6 ga wire you can check in chacals catalog he has a wiring section that gives all that info in the electrical section

 

no

 

Also not there, but what I take from this is small one is frame mounted as suspected. So the closest frame bolt I can fit will work.

That's for humoring my questions, most answers I just like the reinsurance. Some are curiosity, like the frame and engine being ground by engine bolts. Obviously theirs rubber engine mounts so if I thought about it harder that would have made sense sooner.

 

is the battery box bolt location gone?
the lower mounting bolt may ground the motor but rust and grime ,corrision may not make a good ground to frame

 

This is what's left in this area. Thinking where I have it zip tied will work, obviously with a clean metal to metal connection.

 

BAND, BATTERY
4J2-82131-01-00

$15.41
$10.90

 

that is the ground location for the battery box

 

Perfect. I know I relocated this bracket lower when I chopped. Glad it worked out to be proper. I'm welding my ignition switch bracket on the tank hopefully today and then I can finally put some fuel to to old girl and see how cantankerous she really is.

 

Well, knock on wood, all wiring is in order. Bike starts! A few issues to tune out. *cough* but wiring seems correct as it purred nicely.

 

Pics/video or it didn't happen....haha

 

Nothing fancy, just making sure it started to be honest, didn't even throw the pods on. Just wanted to test to make sure the bike started.

But ask and you shall receive

https://goo.gl/photos/AE32iudFeZdHvvxQ7

 

Very cool! Has to be a good feeling after all the work you have put in. There's light at the end of the tunnel