Time to hook it back up...Help?

Alright so ive cleaned my carbs and I'm working on cleaning out the gas tank. In afraid the bike do not come with all the hoses and connections. This is my first time hooking it all up. Does anyone have pictures of how their bikes carb/engine/gas lines look? What hoses do I need? Where should they go? Pictures would help a tremendous amout. Thanks!

 

This is just a guide Cafe-Guy94 but my XJ 900f has four thin rubber pipes coming out of the carburetors and two thicker rubber pipes from the T piece joints (they are overflow pipes) and they all go down the back of the carburetors towards the swinging arm. Hope this helps unfortunately I don't have any pictures although there should be some on this forum.

 

Thanks Franz. Ill definately will look some more. I'm a new rider/builder so all the stuff is really new to me. I was looking on YouTube all weekend on how to disassemble and clean ans reassemble my carbs. I just don't know whats missing. I know for a fact I'm missing hoses. I just need a picture or a site to know what I'm looking for.

 

Your carbs are not much like Franz's

IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN

The Information Overload Hour

One thread per bike please.

 

4 mm vacuum hose from carm manifold boot to small nipple on petcock
6mm fuel line from large nipple on petcock to carb fuel tee between carb bodies


HOW TO: Install a fuel filter

 

So I got the hoses ready. I believe this weekend I will finally start it. I'm buying a new battery because mine was dead. I'm hoping and praying it starts. I actually gotta take the carbs off again because my rebuild kit just arrived from eBay. So well see what happens. Thanks for the help guys. I'm hoping to get riding soon.

 

So I'm trying to start the bike now and I'm getting nothing. The lights come on but no action from the engine. I just replaced the spark plugs. But I checked and I'm not getting any spark from the 2 solenoids on the stem. Are they bad do you think? These are the parts I'm worried about. I'm not very sure what they are. I only figure solenoid because they look like they're giving or supposed to give the spark to the plugs.

 

Those are the ignition coils, and you have two different ones (the white one is non-stock, but may be of the correct electrical specification). The wiring to them is sketchy. Check that first.
Also check that the sidestand switch isn't stuck.

 

M

Yeah that's what I was thinking. The wiring looks off. I dont like the tape. It seems sketchy like you said. And the bike doesnt have any side stand. I just ordered one this week. Where would the switch be located though? Maybe its still there even though the stand isn't.

 

Okay so ive gone through all the wiring I can see and I know it doesn't look the best but I've taken all the electrical tape off, cleaned the wires, and crimped them together. 2 of the fuses are getting power but 2 are not.. I tested the starter motor today and it works fine. So I guess is a wiring problem?

 

I'm also having trouble with my throttle cable. It doesnt seem to be pulling the butterflies at all and it doesnt snap back into place? Its all free play. I just bought a 1982 xj650 maxim so I'm not too sure what the PO was doing.

 

is the cable in the holder on top of the carb rack.

 

Yeah its in the holder. And I adjusted it on the cable and its still so tight.

 

I would bet that the nut on the #3 throttle shaft has been overtightened.

 

Thanks for the information. Ill definitely loosen it this weekend. I also bought a new rectifier because when I tested mine I wasnt getting any type of reading. So I'm thinking maybe thats why I'm not getting power to my starter motor.

 

The rectifier has nothing to do with the starting circuit. It's part of the charging circuit.

 

Okay. Then I got bad advise from a friend. Kind of. It still wasn't working so a new one will be good. But I'm still not sure why I'm not getting any power to my starter. It wont even try to turn over. The starter is good. I bench tested it about a week ago.

 

Will it spin when you lay a screwdriver across the two big terminals on the starter solenoid?

 

Have you checked the fuses? Safety relays? Tested for continuity in the start button? RUN switch turned on? Double-check your battery? Ground wire? Voltage at the starter terminal?

 

I havent tried that yet but ill definitely try this weekend.

 

I

Ive checked my fuses and I get power to 2 or 3. It switches. Ill get power to 2. And then to 3. I am checking the relays this weekend as well. I the PO decided to cut the side stand switch out. I'm not sure what else they did. I did check the starter button and it doesn't seem like I'm getting anything at all.The bikes kind of a mess it seems. My battery is good. I've checked it multiple times. Its new and it stays well above 12.5. When it drops below I charge it back up. My ground looks good. I haven't checked the voltage at the starter terminal.

 

Member
So i put the screw driver across the terminals on the selenoid. And I heard the motor turn. Does this mean the ignition is bad?

 

This is just a way to test the starter. If the rest of the electrical system was OK and the key was on the bike should start. In your case the motor turned over so the starter is OK. Now you need to find out if the solenoid is bad, or if the safety circuits or other electrical issues are causing the problem of the starter not engaging when pushing the start button.

This would be a good place to start. All four fuses should have power, and in particular the ignition fuse for starting the bike as it supplies power to the safety circuit and TCI. The main fuse should have power all the time, and the other 3 are switched power via the ignition switch.

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-install-an-aftermarket-fuse-box.6350/

 

Thanks for the info man. How do I check to see if the solenoid is bad? Just with a multimeter check for continuity? And I believe th PO may have had the wrong fuses installed. It doesnt seem to be the same as the thread you shared. Mine are 15 on top 10 for the 2nd 10 for the 3rd and 25 for the fourth. Is there any way for me to know if those are wrong? The bike seems stock to me so I dont think there are any modifications. Or for me to know whats going where? Like a diagram

 

Step 3 in this link:

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-test-your-starter-circuit.7828/

Gamaru's thread is for a 650, I had to look back to see what you have, but I thought I saw 650, which I believe should have a 20 amp main, and 3 10 amps - Ignition, signal, and headlight.

Please add your bike to you signature so we don't have to guess or spend time researching.

One of the first things to do is get a service manual, it will have electrical diagrams and lots of other good information.

 

Could you guys help me out with my fuses again? What does this top fuse connect to? The other 3 shine real bright when I use my light on them and this 4th one used to not shine at all. But now it shines very very dim. I reconnected a wire that was torn apart over by the ignitor box. Still the bike doesnt turn over.

 

Not sure if you have spliced or changed wire colors, but normally how it goes on the 650 Maxim, at least per the Haynes manual;

R input to R output, main fuse input to battery plus and output to ignition switch and Rect/Reg
R/Y input to R/Y output Head fuse
Br input to Br output Signal fuse
R/W input to R/W output Ignition fuse

The R/Y, Br, and R/W inputs should tie together in the harness. If you pull one of the fuses (Head, Signal, or Ignition) the hot side is the input side when the key is set to ON. The input to the main fuse is always hot.

Which might indicate a poor connection somewhere, as in a crimp or a splice.

The largest gauge wires are for sure the main, and I think the headlight would be the next for the largest gauge.

 

Thanks for the reply. All this handy dandy wire work is the previous owners doing. I'm trying to figure out what he did. There's spliced and crimped wires in numerous places on this bike. I'm going through it all this week trying to fix it. The only way the bike turns over is if I cross the terminals on the starter solenoid. I dont have a neutral light or turn signals. They just dont come on.

 

[Q

UOTE="Rooster53, post: 568309, member: 14963"]Not sure if you have spliced or changed wire colors, but normally how it goes on the 650 Maxim, at least per the Haynes manual;

R input to R output, main fuse input to battery plus and output to ignition switch and Rect/Reg
R/Y input to R/Y output Head fuse
Br input to Br output Signal fuse
R/W input to R/W output Ignition fuse

The R/Y, Br, and R/W inputs should tie together in the harness. If you pull one of the fuses (Head, Signal, or Ignition) the hot side is the input side when the key is set to ON. The input to the main fuse is always hot.



Which might indicate a poor connection somewhere, as in a crimp or a splice.

The largest gauge wires are for sure the main, and I think the headlight would be the next for the largest gauge.[/QUOTE]

 

Okay so i got my neutral light and my blinkers back. But still no power to the starter. Or at least its not turning over.

 

I also got power to all 4 fuses.

 

Power to the starter is good if it turns over when shorting the two large terminals, a good start.
So, now you are down to something like a bad solenoid or deployed safety circuit. I would suggest going through the steps in Gamaru's troubleshooting guide, as it is really well written and should guide you right to the problem. Post 25 above step 3 to check the solenoid.

I was writing this while you posted, but since you have power to all four fuses you are likely OK, but just in case.

So, I think what I would do is try to match what is written above for fuse box wire colors, just to make sure you get the fuse box in order.

Pull all the fuses, find the one hot terminal on the fuse box and that will be main in, hopefully a large red wire.
Install the main fuse, hopefully the output side of that fuse has a large red wire going to the ignition switch. Verify none of the other fuse holder terminals are hot at this point. If they are the fuse box is not connected correctly
If all checks so far, turn the key on and verify the Signal, Ignition, and Head fuse have power on one side of the fuse holder terminal
Install the remainder of the fuses one at a time, and verify the output side has 12V when the key is switched to ON.

 

Okay I did as you said. The main has power at all times. Around 12.3 volts. No other fuses had power at that time. Then I installed the other fuses one by one and all the fuses had between 12.1 and 12 volts

 

Sounds good, so looks like you need to try the Gamaru procedure for checking the starter, solenoid, starter switch, and safety circuit. Looks like you can pick up at step 3, checking the solenoid. Just let us know if you get stuck at any step.

 

Thanks for all the help Rooster53 I'm for sure going to go through it all tomorrow and see where those steps get me. But I was taking a quick look at the thread and I see that thw picture has 2 red wires coming from the starter selenoid. One going up and another going down? Mine only has one? Do you have any idea what the 2nd is for? I've attached the photo from off my bike.

 

Thanks for all the help Rooster53 I'm for sure going to go through it all tomorrow and see where those steps get me. But I was taking a quick look at the thread and I see that thw picture has 2 red wires coming from the starter selenoid. One going up and another going down? Mine only has one? Do you have any idea what the 2nd is for? I've attached the photo from off my bike.

 

I can't quite see the solenoid wires in the photo. I see the one large wire and battery terminal and the one smaller wire that likely goes to the main fuse.

Per the Yamaha parts diagram the 82 Maxim should use a solenoid that comes with a pigtail and contains two wires. It is possible that someone has installed an aftermarket solenoid, but I can't quite make it out that well. Perhaps a better picture of the solenoid itself.

And, if it is a one wire solenoid then the polarity matters, as the +12V wire to the internal relay coil is combined with the battery hot side. The single small wire out of the solenoid would then be waiting for a ground to be applied to energize the coil closing the high current contacts.

Edit: The one wire solenoid would also require the starter cutoff relay wiring be modified to move it to the ground side, as opposed to the high side where it normally is to maintain the safety circuit functionality.

 

This is a photo of my selenoid. The diagram on the thread to check your starter circuit shows 2 red wires. One going to the main fuse like you've said and another that does down (towards the starter motor?) On the same terminal. But mine only has the one to the main fuse and then on the other terminal is the black wire that connects to the starter motor.

 

Seems clear in Gamaru's procedure, this it what it says to do.

"3. Locate the pigtail from the starter solenoid and unplug it. Using a jumper lead, hook the Red/White wire from the solenoid to the battery's positive terminal. Using another jumper lead, hook one end to the solenoid's Blue/White wire. Momentarily touch the other end of this lead to the battery's negative terminal. If the solenoid is functioning properly, the solenoid should click and the starter should begin cranking the engine. Repeat this step several times to ensure the integrity of the solenoid. If nothing happens, repair or replace the starter solenoid."

And you have this, so maybe another pic will help:

 

Right I understand what its saying and what to do but on his instructions for step 3 if you look theres 2 red wires coming off the selenoid. On my bike there is only one that is going to the main. Am I missing something? Or is his picture something different than what my bike is?

 

She

Turns over!!! Finally Hahah! After 2 months of buying parts and working on her shes almost a running motorcycle.

 

The second red wire at the solenoid terminal is probably a hookup for a battery tender. You only need the one there for the input to the main fuse.

At step 3 or did you get further and the start button is working? Whichever, you are making progress - a good thing.

 

Thanks. I actually had to change a fuse to a little higher amp fuse and now its turning over with no problems. Next I gotta try to get a spark. Ive checked and I'm not getting any spark. So I'm not too sure what the problem is. But ive been trying to get it to turn over for over a month. Haha. So today is good. Just gotta get this sparking.

 

to add to this clean and dielectric grease the run switch and starter button.

you want to test for voltage 12 volts at the red/white wire on the TCI unit.

the ignition fuse supplies voltage to the run/kill switch then proceeds to the starter circuit cut off relay (you should hear it click when key is turned on).
The relay sends voltage to tci, coils and solinoid.
so with key on check for 12 volts at red white wire at coils primary, tci, and solenoid.

then there is the sidestand switch clutch switch to be checked

remove the side stand relay this will bypass the side stand switch
you can also unplug the black/white wire on the tci it will shut down the ignition it is part of the safety relays

 

Okay so my battery is reading at 12.5 and I'm getting 10.3 volts at the tci, and both ignition coils and 10.3 also at the starter relay

 

is it turning over with the starter button?
if not check the blue/yellow wire on the solinoid connector for continuity to ground when you press the button.
if button is working do a voltage drop test on the battery.
hook your meter to battery press starter button and what voltage do you get ? it needs to be 9.8 to 10 volts to fire the TCI for spark.
if you have good voltage ohm out your pickup coils from the other plug in the tci should be orange wire gray wire and black wire and black white wire.
test is done from orange to black and gray to black.

have you ohmed out your ignition coils and spark plug caps?

also check your spark plugs to make sure they are not fouled

 

Which fuse?
A 30 Amp main and 10 Amps for the other circuits is what you absolutely need to use in order to avoid electrical fires (using lower amp rated fuses is fine in a pinch, but larger is never OK).

If you needed more than a 30 Amp main, you have problems elsewhere that are causing excessive voltage drop.

 

switch the wires to an open slot for the fuse you bumped up and try the correct fuse in the new spot