1982 XJ550R Seca - suggestions on purchasing wiring harnesses/fuse box?

First time posting here but longtime lurker - the community has inadvertently been tremendously helpful with my 82 650 Maxim. Just yesterday I purchased a new project bike - a 1982 Xj550R Seca.

Im diagnosing some electrical issues right now (bike won’t start but I get clicking sound from the solonoid - thinking it’s a shot starter) but wanted to see where you all would recommend I purchase a new harness and fuse box replacement for the bike. This is literally my first dive into doing electrical work, so I wasn’t sure if this is something you just buy a bunch of wire yourself, with some shielding, and go to town - or purchase a harness for the bike.

I have found a couple nifty wiring diagrams and plan to get the bike to full running order before hitting/replacing electrical.. but I need to know what the smart move would be for the harness and fuse situation.

I’ve seen a lot of good information on the M Box setups but want to make sure there aren’t any other affordable options before jumping onto it.

Any recommendations?

 

Here’s a couple photos of the bike - and how the previous owner decided to handle to the fuse situation.

 

Nice bike. What makes you think it needs a re-wire? Most folk update the fuse box to a blade type. You can of course clean up all the connections with contact cleaner. and a toothbrush.

 

Chacal at XJ4Ever has a nice fuse panel built to fit right in where the old one was and most of the big box auto parts stores have similar fuse panels for less than $15. It is not a hard project and makes such a difference in how the bike runs and operates. A great place to start and when done you likely will not want/need to do a complete rewire. Put like A100man said there are a lot of connections that need to be cleaned. Cleaning is much more productive than trying to fabricate a new harness.
You got yourself a pretty little bike there. Congrats!
John

 

Welcome!
I agree with everyone else. I got my bike in similar condition as yours. The 1st thing I replaced is the old glass type fuse box, because I had no headlight! Once you replace that, you'll have a much easier time diagnosing any electrical problems you have, because you know your fuse box is good. Check the battery, too. It might look fine without a load on it, but not have enough juice to do more than make the relay click.
Just my 2 cents, start with a new blade type fuse box, and REPLACE ALL BRAKE PADS and LINES! (<important) And go from there. Every wear item will probably need replaced.

Also, introduce yourself to Chacal! (Len) He runs xj4ever.com, where you'll find everything you need in one place. Also, read his articles on the home page, the church of clean for your carbs, and the true cost of ownership article, so you know what you're getting into with a 40 year old motorcycle.

Good luck and have fun!

 

ditto! Fuse box and battery were my first upgrades. Ever light got brighter and it started better!

 

Thanks everyone! Tremendously helpful so far.

I replaced the battery as soon as I got the bike home - I’ll just need to replace the fuse box then. I assumed that if I was going to replace the fuse situation, I might as well re-wire. I’m okay with less work and a much cheaper Option though!

When it comes to installing a blade style fuse box, is there a standard method for wiring it up - that even a novice could figure it out? I’m waiting for my Clymer XJ book to arrive to figure a lot of this stuff out.

 

The DYI section of the forum has a ton of writeups.
HOW TO: Install an aftermarket fuse box

 

I've replaced the fuse box on every pre-84 Yamaha I ever had. I've used boxes from local parts stores. There is rarely a need to rewire the whole bike, unless a previous owner hacked up the wiring.

I really don't understand the following M-Units have. You spend a bunch of money and a not-insignificant amount of work to get what amounts to just some fancy blinky lights and to add a computer network (that's what CAN BUS is) to a 30-40 year old bike that runs perfectly fine without it. Sure, you can run just one thin wire to your handlebar controls, but that wire is a datalink, which is subject to RF interference...

 

Back a whole 10 years or so ago, there used to be Radio Shack stores, and they carried fuse holder clips that are virtually identical to the ones in the original fuse box except with solder tabs. I rebuilt the original fuse boxes in both of my 550 Secas at a cost of less than $4 and they've been fine since. Now that Radio Shack is deceased, somebody must offer those fuse holders. I'll poke about and see what I can find if you want to go the 'minimal modification' route.

 

Also: re: the Clymer book-- it's OK, but a tad generic and has some just plain wrong info in it (your bike doesn't have points, for instance.) If you plan to become a long-term Seca 550 owner, jump on eBay and find a factory book. The only book is for the XJ550RH, they didn't do one for the RJ or RK. They come in both the bound, retail format; or in loose-leaf form ready to pop into 3-ring binder. This was the version supplied to dealers, there is no difference in content. I prefer the loose-leaf version myself, it stays open on the workbench easier. Beware sellers passing off the Maxim supplement as the actual book.

 

Thanks, Fitz. I would really appreciate that - I tried going to my local bike shop for suggestions and it was a load of confusion between both of us. He just wanted to try and find an original fuse box to replace it, I want to do the minimal amount to get it running.

Also got exactly 0 info on how to fix or replace my bad starter..

 

A couple more quick notes: first off, I apologize, the info in regard to service manuals was woefully incomplete and very un Fitz-like.
Factory full XJ550RH manual says LIT-11616-02-29 in lower left corner of cover, and 4U8-28197-10 in lower right corner.
Maxim supplement "XJ550H Supplementary Service Manual" is LIT-11616-02-29, and 5K5-28197-10. This manual is ONLY useful if you have a 550 Maxim, it only covers the differences from the RH (the Seca.)

Replacing the starter is easy, fixing it is anywhere from a pain to "lost cause, replace" depending on what you find. Don't assume, disassemble and diagnose.

Most local shops will know exactly as much as you do about the bike unless you get really lucky. The main hurdle to owning a 40-year old motorcycle is, well, it's 40 years old. At this point, it is a DIY proposition for sure. If you're not already a reasonably experienced mechanic, you will become one.

 

What I used from Radio Shack were similar to these; https://www.parts-express.com/littelfuse-3ag-agc-fuseholder--071-500 I popped the clips out and slid 'em into the Yamaha fuse box. Had to very carefully un-crimp the wires as cutting them would have sacrificed critical length needed for soldering.

The downside is still having glass fuses. Good luck finding those these days unless you already have a drawerful...

 

well said - I’ll keep that in mind. I just got home and plan to dive into disassembling the starter after dinner. When tested at the shop, it hesitated to even start.. and when it did.. it was turning far slower than what would be expected out of it. Looking for good threads/videos/chapters now to make sure I do it right.

sad to hear Clymer isn’t the ideal book, since I just bought it locally. Bought the bike to learn and learn I shall!

 

Chacal still carries them. There are also a few suppliers of reproduction fuseboxes now (including our favorite parts guy). I'd still recommend a modern upgrade though, unless it's a show bike.

 

I think Yamaha has those available for download now. I know they offer the 750 manuals online.

FYI, your inbox is full. You may want to clear it out when you have the time.

 

I’ll check with him on a fuse box. Might also need to look into starter options. I have not ever looked at the inside of a starter but I’m guessing it shouldn’t look like this..

 

It looks to me like all it needs is a good cleaning (electric motor cleaner only) and new brushes.

 

There is no particular reason to chase after an original style box, unless you are doing a museum-quality restoration. There is a pretty good reason not to - like Fitz said, glass fuses are hard to find.

I was trying to find a picture of what I did on my 550 - it came out looking great and worked excellent. Didn't find it. I can tell you it was a side-terminal one.

 

Hardware store. Auto parts store. Amazon. The things are all over the place still, because we love our classic cars.
Their real disadvantage is being slightly more prone to failure from vibration.

 

I went ahead and ordered an updated kit from Chacal, which I’ll attempt to get installed early next week. The goal isn’t really to get things true to OEM - just update only the necessities that I personally desire (electrical continuity/cleanliness/safety, braided brake lines, LED/better lamps and lights, etc). More of the auxiliary components to make an old bike “newish”.

 

Pick up some side cover grommets (and tab covers) soon too. I see in one of your pics that one of your side cover grommets is half gone. Seca 500 side covers are like gold; you don't want to take a chance on losing either of them.

 

Good idea. I noticed when replacing the battery that the previous owner dremeled a small hole in the top of the side cover and used a zip tie to keep it braces against the frame. The clip area (c shaped clamps on the panels) are worn or broken away, sadly.

 

a-way-to-fix-a-broken-side-cover-tab-post-mount.7883
securing-side-covers-anyone-got-pics-tips.31073

ABS is fairly easy to repair, thankfully.

 

wow there are some nifty DIY fixes in here. Thanks for the info!!

 

I have a more detailed thread saved...somewhere. Exactly where is still a mystery to me though.

 

None of which really matters when you blow a fuse on a ride in the sticks.

Having them available at the gas station in the middle of nowhere is the true measure.

Of course, ATO/ATC fuses are less likely to blow in the first place.

 

There are (3) spots in the stock fusebox lid for spares, it's prudent to keep those stocked.

My 1974 Norton has ONE 17A fuse. A glass one, in an inline fuse holder right off the battery. It still has the ORIGINAL Lucas fuse, with a little paper (?!) label inside that says Lucas 17A on it. Never blown, or broken. The little paper label does have a slight scorch mark from where it is close to the fuse wire, so it must have gotten warm at some point...

 

similar to @bigfitz52 approach I've attached pics of my FZ600 fusebox restoration. I was able to find a 4 fuse block replacement.
I cut a hole in the bottom of the OEM box just slightly larger than the new block so the epoxy flows into the cracks.
Lay wax paper underneath and it just slides away leaving a nice smooth surface on the bottom once the epoxy dries.
The replacement block allows use of standard glass fuses, the OEM Yamaha are a Japanese standard, slightly shorter and even harder to find.

 

My new fuse kit comes in tomorrow from Chacal and XJ4ever, but I just realized the wiring for my headlight fuse is missing somewhere. Something tells me that my installation tomorrow is going to be a nightmare haha.

I like the look of your restoration! Super solid.

 

on ebay from time to time you will see an original style fuse box replacment it comes with 2 connectors so you can add a connector to harness and unplug the unit.
it costs as much as an aftermarket replacement kit or good inline blade fuse holders, sometimes it is on sale for a good price.
good for the Restoration crowd who do showes but I like the blade style fuses as you can find them every where.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-Rep...097772?hash=item5dafb908ec:g:KaMAAOSw1EZeqHPP

I do like the connector setup, but how often are you going to need to replace the fuse box? you can do a similar connector set up with inline blade fuses too. makes for a cleaner look

 

It would be handy to pull the fusebox while parked overnight away from home, or if you have a less-than-sensable teenager. No joyrides that way.