Maxim X in boxes

Hi Everyone
Im new here, but will stay a bit restoring my new old lady. I bought in Germany (I'm living in Poland) Maxim X that is dissasembled and stored in boxes. According to the owner (still not get it on site) all parts are there because he wanted to restore Maxim but he got not time fo that and only whathe did is dissasembled everything. So now all that bunch of everything will come to me and I'll restore it to the original. I need some information from where I can download service manual (better for free) and eventually all other information that may be helpful for me.
I'm very familiar with motorcycles ad did restore few bike from 80 s to previous charm.

Piotr

 

Welcome to the board. You have a lot of work ahead of you, I wish you luck on what could be a monumental project.

 

Get one at Emanual On Line 20.00 bucks PDF

 

Is this bike from Canada or USA?
Canada is 750cc with 11,000 red-line, USA is 700cc with 10,000 red-line, otherwise the manuals will be the same for most stuff.
The frame sticker should identify it, also the cylinder block will have the displacement embossed on the cam chain bulge between 2-3.
Also your tachometer will be 10,000 or 11,000 redline.

 

Welcome to the forum , see my post Johnny Cash bike , this started out as an engine and frame and a pile of parts bought for 120$ , it is running and have a totally rode it 4 miles ...still have more work to do but it is fun .Good luck keep us updated with pics on your progress .

 

I hope next week will have Maxim in my garage, in boxex but stil. Looks like this is US version XJ700X Maxim X 1985.

 

i once did same as you , bought a honda cx500 in boxes, all parts seemed to be there, was'nt till i got it home that i realised that most of the bolts wer'nt there. especially the special ones like the engine bolts and fine thread ones. these were a nightmare to find ,as most bike dismantlers throw the bolts away. this was the worst part of the build. check when you pick it up ,that the bolts are there.

 

Well, hoping for the best expecting the worst! I take under consideration that some shits may happen but I buy it from german guy so that counts for plus as they are very serious and honest. But all can happens...will see next week.

 

Try this site. Has a bunch of really good information and you can find service manual as well under unpublished archives. http://www.maxim-x.com/notes.html

 

Thanks, but I did already find that site and read it very carrefuly.

 

You have all of the experience here, ask questions. The resources Hap has on maxim-x is invaluable, too. There are many of us who have built bikes from boxes..... I, for one, am building an X from nothing but a bare frame. It’s getting close to done.

 

Hi. Still not got it in my garage but the german guy send me over pictures with stuff ready to pick up. On the first pic is Maxim before dismantling.

 

I have question: (started to assably my Maxim, just arrived today) is there everything, mean on the pic? I see on right side 6 mm thread hole and nothing there.

 

looks like the pointer for the timing marks 9 10 11

 

This website is one of many showing exploded views of your bike

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1985/maxim-x-xj700xn

 

But this pointer is only for adjusting I guess, no problem with normal use without?

 

If you're putting this together from parts you should make sure your valves are in tolerance.
If you need to change shims the cam shafts need to come out and the pointer is needed to reference the crank position in relation to the cams.

 

Well, but engine was not dissasebled, was mounted completely to the frame. Previous owner wanted to polish left cover and he broke the bolt, that is why cover was out. I already repair the thread and all looks ok. Mileage is only 32000 km.

 

Good to hear the engine is intact.
I still suggest you go through the process of measuring (and adjusting if req'd) valves.
At 32,000 kms it's doubtful it was ever done. Yamaha recommend checking every 42,000 kms (26,600 miles).
In my own experience I swapped shims at half that distance, probably around 15,000 kms.
You can eye ball it without the pointer but you can probably make one easy enough.
Is your speedo/odometer actually in kms?

 

Is teh Maxim-X head like my FZ750? If so I had a horrific time with the valve shims over the summer. Must have had the cams out 3 times which is no joke as there are about 40+ bolts to torque up every time and also getting a torque wrench onto the cam sprockets is also a nightmare requiring wobble ends an the like. Why 3 times? I foolishly didn't measuring teh shims myslef an relied on teh sizes stamped on, not realising that several had been ground to size (quite neatly I might add). A lot of headscratch ensued when after re-assembley some clearances had worsened as I moved the 'bad' shims about. I thought I might have bent a cam and bought some plastiguage too. The diddly cap shims are hard to find now too.

 

Or if it is the 86 model year then it won't have a pointer but I am not sure if this applies to all countries.

https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/1986-maxim-700-timing-marks.45970/

 

Ignition timing is not adjustable on these. Pointer is useful for timing cams in if they have to be removed etc. but you would probably do that procedure without the pointer.

Regardless of the miles, that the PO said, etc. I would always check the clearances/document the shims if they are unknown to you.

 

Well I learned something today. My service manual is 1985, I had no idea they would have changed this.
@PiotrS can you tell us when the date of manufacture is from the steering neck decal?
Let's verify for sure if you have a 700 or a 750, you referenced kms before.

 

Yes

 

Valve clearance adjustment is my forthcomming task. First of all must asambled everything and make it run. So far I do not have spark on plugs but must first buy new battery and replace sparkplugs. I connect with wires and starter cranks but slowly and no spark. Looks also like there is a mess in coils, one is original a nd second definitely not mounted with zip. I have also a small problem because previous owner broke two bolts in a head that keeps pipes. Must slowly put all puzzles together because today I become slightly mad.

 

Can not take a photo of the decal but will do surely tomorrow. But it is US version because front turn signals are with tail lights. But from the other hand tacho is in km.

 

Probably because you can find TDC with a pencil in the #1 spark plug hole.
The pointers tend to get bumped out of adjustment anyway. They are nice to have, but they can't be relied on unless you are the only person working on the machine.

 

That is a common problem, but still very nasty.
Lots of discussion on here dealing with that.

From the parts schematic it looked like the pointer is slotted so besides bending it there is potential to mount it off kilter anyway.
A little off topic but here are pics of the process I went through to find exactly 28 degrees BTDC when I put electronic ignition on my BSA.
I bought the TDC tool but borrowed the dial indicator.

 

So here we go, steering decal. What we can say about the bike having regard that information?

 

But now, I face a problem. Lets start from beginning.
There i no spark from both coils. When I push starter button lights go off and no cranks. I checked side stand sensor and clutch sensor and both works fine. There is also no any kind of connection on starter relay (small wire) when push the start button. when I connect (using wrench) both red big wires from battery, it cranks. Battery is brand new btw. So I stuck and have no idea where to looking for problem. Starter ralay can be also malfunctional but it should not have any influence for sparks. So please help where to looking for my "missing sparks"? Because of all symphtoms I assume it is something that cuts off spark to not alloud starting.

 

Another question as I'm looking for spark: where is located starting cicuit cut off relay? And what does this relay, is this very malfunctionable? It s cutting off when motocycle has accident or what?

 

You should have an integrated unit that combines the starter cutoff relay, the flasher relay, and the auto cancel unit, it will be labeled 41R-71 but that will be hidden under the mounting grommet. To test the starter cutoff section see below:



You can disable the safety ignition cutoff for troubleshooting by removing the sidestand relay, which should be located under the left side cover and have a blue marking.

It would also be prudent to do the resistance checks on the ignition coils and pick-up coils found in the manual.

 

The starting circuit cut off relay is directly above the carbs.
There is a pretty good write up in the OEM manual troubleshooting the starting system on these. There is a test shown you can do for this relay. The electrical guru’s here on the forum should know what it actually does.

 

@Rooster53 answers the question faster than I can suggest he would. Best forum on the net.
@PiotrS you are now in good hands.
Just follow @Rooster53 advice.
Do you have a manual for the X?

 

https://dissingermotostorage.z13.web.core.windows.net/

1985 xj700 Maxim USA - it may be a bit of a hybrid seeing how the reluctor appears to be from a 1986 with no timing pointer.

In order for the starter to engage you need working components - starter switch, starter solenoid, starter cutoff relay, starter, and safety switches. The three safety switches are the side stand switch, neutral switch, and clutch switch.

The logic for the starter to engage when the starter button is depressed is bike in neutral OR bike in gear with clutch pulled in AND side stand up.

The logic for the ignition cutoff (spark) for the bike to run is bike in neutral OR bike in gear AND side stand up.

 

You should have gutted a spark plug, threaded it m8 (or welded a nut on the top), and used a bolt with a rounded end to stop the piston just below tdc...

 

Poitr,
What are the 9 digits on the cover behind the oil fill cap? Might be a 1986 engine in a 1985 frame.

Also, a couple of troubleshooting pages that may help are attached.

 

I got the manual and will follow the instruction. For now I do left for a weekend so I'm not able to read 9 digits, but will shut a pic and send over on Monday.

 

@Rooster53 I remember the side stand relay. Correct me if I;m wrong: throwing that relay to rubbish I'l bypass cut off rely and also kick stand security?

 

I have also problem with identification of where exactly expansion tank should be located? I was browsing manual and could not find it because of pics poor quality. I have also qustion regarding pain in the ass which is broken muffler bolts in head. I have two broken and there is few opportunieties how to fix them but maybe yo have some already working ideas? I was intend to drill inside 4,5mm hole and to try rebuild the thread with thread maker. Another possibility is to drill 8mm hole and use heli coli for 6 mm. Any suggestion will be welcommed.

 

I find the exploded parts views helpful:
https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/500426c5f8700209bc788702/frame

If there is any stud left to weld a nut on, that would be your best option.

Tony

 

Well we don't normally recommend that the side stand relay be thrown away as most here believe it could save your life. Therefore, it is best to remove for troubleshooting and then correct the faults and reinstall.

The starter cutoff relay is a separate relay and is not related to the sidestand relay.

A working neutral switch, diode block, and wiring will enable the starter cutoff relay and the sidestand relay so sometimes it is best to get the bike cranking / running in neutral with a working neutral switch. In neutral bike cranking and no spark would be a good example of pulling the sidestand relay to see if ignition is being disabled because of a faulty relay or wiring.

Note: the diode block is located under the left side cover

Any issues after cranking / running in neutral can then be addressed.

 

Nooo—- disconnect and bypass it temporarily.

 

Exactly!!

 

I do not intend to remove relay for good, only temporarily to exclude kick stand problems. Tomorrow will spend few hours to looking for spark and therefore I do collect all information that can help me. Previous owner claims that the bike was running flawesly before dismantling and that was standing few years like that. So having regard this information I may start looking for a bad corroded connection somehow. Diode block looks for me suspicious, but I have no idea what it does and if that can have any influence on missing spark. I was trying to disconnect the socket from diode but all is so corroded and I can not pull it out because plastic socket cracks and brakes when I do try lift with screwdriver.

 

Thanks, I was suspect the extension tank may be in that place but now I know for sure.

Studs are broken exactly on the sme level as the aluminium head part. So the quetion is if I cn try to weld nut on that without harming head parts. Or, maybe, I can grind alluminum arround the stud to get his 2-3 mm to weld the nut?

 

If the head is still off of the engine:

Option 1 - take it to a machine shop and have them do it

Option 2 - look into the “remove with Alum” discussions

 

Unfortunatelly all is mounted on the frame and engine is fully assebled.

 

Then option #3 -
Pull the engine and take it to a machine shop

 

I do still did not found the spark, have checked allmost everything and nothing. Side stand, clutch, neutral all works. What I did find out is that there is no signal "+" to cut off unit (above carbs), but can not figure out where to looking for. Also there is no signal "-" that switch on starter relay.
Another issue is oil warning light: pulb is ok but no light when turning key on, maybe it has something in common with missing spark.

BTW, oil sensor is beneath in the bottom o sump?