XJ650 Starting issues

I thought that this was only the case on XJ550 models, otherwise you wouldn't use that bolt.

Are you saying adding an oil cooler on the XJ650 Maxim will introduce that bolt back into the system?

 

Good question.
I have both xj750 and xj900 and they both use that block addon for the oil cooler. You physically can't remove the engine from the frame without removing it first.
My knowledge is reduced to those two models.
I don't imagine it would be different for the other models but it could be.

 

Also in the case of adding anti seize to the bolt that goes in for the spin on kit, how do you account for the torque spec where some of it has loctite and the other part has anti seize?

Instructions say set it to 20! Foot pounds, but with anti seize that is what, 25% less right? Also the base bolt is 11 so I'm a bit concerned if the threads can handle 20 unless it can get into the threads in the back that this bolt can't reach by itself

I'm assuming the remaining threads in the crankcase are tapered or something, because I guess I don't quite understand why it can't be hand tightened further, otherwise

 

Kinda an idea of the oil cooler block with a transac 4into1 system. You can see the block in one pic.

 

I have never seen a tapered thread in these engines. Definitely don't assume that.

 

I guess I'm not sure why it can't be tightened further (by two finger)

The length of the threads on the bolt I think, I would need to double check, is shorter than the available threads in the oil filter hole. That image I attached went in super smooth and with no issues. Doesn't wiggle, doesn't feel cross threaded, feels like a brand new bolt in a brand new nut of the correct sizes and fitment.

I'll double check the length of the threads with my caliper tonight.

I will say the new bolt and the OEM bolt are different overall lengths, the new one with the larger head is a few mm longer overall.

Take a look at the attachment: this is the old bolt. It has this weird "taper" like maybe it was stretched? Idk if this is normal for this bolt. The new one doesn't look like it shares that same shape.

 

When you create a thread on a bolt with a die it is tapered at its end point. Like the tap pic I sent earlier but the inverse. The meat is stripped away but there will be a taper at the end of both tools if not going all the way. Maybe the bolt just doesn't need to go all the way in and that is confusing the issue. Measure it against the oil filter umm, cowling thing, I guess. No real issue with having too much thread if it doesn't bottom out before it tightens that down.

 

Correct, but........for bikes without the factory oil cooler, then that special union bolt is not used (well, it's used on all XJ550 engines, but that's another story.....),. No-oil-cooler equipped XJ650/XJ750 models (which is 99.5% of what was available in North America) didn't come with an oil cooler, hence no union bolt. The entire rest of the world always used an oil cooler on XJ550, XJ650, and XJ750 models (and many others). Only the XJ650 Turbo an the XJ900 used it here in the USA, and Canadian-only 1982 XJ650RJC Seca models (the red bikes) had them stock.......but those bikes were really "leftover" UK/Euro 4K0 or 4K1 models.

 

Looking at the rear brake axle bolt, is it supposed to look bent like this?

Looking at the manual it seems pretty straight in the photo.

I'm not sure what I have to do to replace this rod, it looks like it is connected to a spring...

It doesn't look like it's a part that Len carries, and looking on eBay, it seems like I can find this part and it seems like the rod itself is held in with a bolt that's then held in with a cotter pin, that I seemingly might be able to remove without also removing the swing arm, but I am not sure, and I really don't want to have to remove the swingarm as well or replace the entire assembly

 

you can straighten that, as long as its not bent in the threads

 

I'm not really sure, I'll have to find out when I disassemble it.

So I got the oil can delivered, And I'm noticing a couple of things, namely the hollow bolt, only seems to fit about 12 mm and change into the filter hole. I've tried both the old bolt filter and the new bolt, and those both fit around 15.6ish millimeters inside of the hole. Of course this is only finger tightening. Now, the oil filter itself, absolutely fits between the headers, and I seem to have enough hand leverage in order to get the oil can to touch the hollow bolt, but because header 3 is just a little too close to the notches on the outside of the oil can, and because the bolt is too far out, I'm not confident that I can get it on the hollow bolt without accidentally cross threading on the oil can.

Without removing the headers, which is a separate can of worms, I'm not sure that I can get the oil can on, unless the bolt can go in much farther. However, while I don't think that I'm cross threading the hollow bolt, it's weird to me that it doesn't go farther into the hole like I would expect it to. I've been using blue tack to stick into the oil filter hole, to see if I can get at any loose fragments, and it's pretty much coming up clean, so I don't think that there is a metal fragment in there that's keeping it from turning.

 

Eyeball measurements, but I think I would just need like 5 mm more clearance...

Can I take a ball peen hammer and dent the exhaust header? Lol

 

Realizing that I don't have the clearance to put in the spin-on, because header number 3 is just like slightly too much in the way, I tried again with the original oil filter assembly.
I'm confident in that I was doing it very carefully and making sure I wasn't cross threading, and I was able to finger tighten it down until the rubber of the filter touched the aluminum, and then the friction of the rubber against the aluminum, and the spring of the filter, prevented me really from hand tightening it down any further, so I got the socket and tightened it by hand, until the filter housing was. Maybe maybe three or 4 mm? Away from closing off and it got tight. So I take my torque wrench, and I stop at 8 ft lb and it's still not closed off, there's about maybe 3 mm left. I use the blue tack again to see if there are any metal fragments, and two half Moon threads come off.

I think I give up on trying to do this myself and just have the tech do it.

 

Depending on what the shop quotes me, to fix the oil filter threads, I may just do it myself. $355 for the kit and sell it on eBay for a loss after using it because I doubt I'll need a M20x1.5 ever again is certainly cheaper than what a shop would want.

I've been doing a lot of reading on the process of doing a time sert, and I believe I could plug the hole with a rag. At that point it's just a matter of, center stand, put the bike on jacks on the frame to keep it elevated, take the front tire off and forks, take off the stupid headers, cut myself a big enough block of wood and hold it in place to use as a drill guide, coat drill bit in grease with slow motion, drill indent, tap threads, use insert tool, clean hole and remove rag, that should prevent the metal fragments from getting inside, can also use tweezers and more blutac because that worked exceptionally well to remove fragments too so far in case something got stuck behind something else.

I figure what do I have to loose? A bike that doesn't ******* run anyways? This entire thing has been way too much project creep and I haven't even got to the parts of the bike I actually wanted to do because I'm getting caught up on some PO's abuse and dumb ******* choices, and 30 years of aging and lack of maintenance when I just wanted to ride. I should have just bought a new bike so I could ride this and putter around with this on the side instead of this being the only way I can ride anything.

 

Sucks pretty much.
Try to do the right thing and end up wishing you didn't bother looking at it.
Perfect is great. But if your going to commit to doing the helicoil (or whatever it's called) just go for broke and tighten it up till it seals.

If it works out, ride around and forget about it, just like the PO.

If not then you are back to the original issue.

 

Well that's basically what I did, I'm almost certain that I did it correctly, and as soon as I started to tighten it down, more threads started coming out.

From talking to another DIYer friend, once the threads behave the way they've been, it just snowballs.

 

Ouch and damn.
Yes... Forward is the only option.
Don't forget that it'll be great when you hit powerband in second gear! Eventually.

 

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/tech-topic-the-real-costs-of-maintenance.14581

Well, that certainly is an exciting, ambitious plan.....and one that I wouldn't ever recommend, but you seem to have a greater level of experience and ingenuity than most people. But if I were to attempt to do this, (almost) # 1 on my list of things to do would be to drop the oil pan because no matter how hard you try, you'll very likely get some type of metal shavings down in there, and you most definitely don't want them to remain there, as they could make the issues that you have now seem minor......

The issue with time-serts or heli-coils is that they require extreme precision when drilling the guide hole....it has to be perfectly in alignment with the axis of the original hole, or otherwise the insert --- once installed --- will end up "cocked" a bit, and then whatever fastener that goes into that newly threaded hole will be (slightly) cocked, and applying torque to it will --- if the fastener is somehow constrained to only go in "straight" ---- it will rip threads out again (from the softer metal, the fastener or the time-sert/helicoil) and you're right back where you started. In the case of the oil filter (stock or spin-on kit), there's really not that sort of constraint to the angle of the fastener that will be introduced, but an off-angle may very likely not allow the filter cover (stock system) or adapter plate (spin-on kit) to be firmly snugged down, as the cinching force of the fastener now has some amount of "sideways" component to it instead of just "straight".......which, depending on the offset, may or may not cause minor or major issues....

Note: I'm not trying to discourage you, just making sure that you fully understand the risks involved. If you are able to pull this off (no pun intended......) successfully, then I would suggest also buying some Powerball lottery tickets for the big drawing, as you'll be the most skilled and luckiest dude around........!

Sadly, yes.

 

22mm drill bit probably for the insert.
Good point.
That is a hell of a thing to use by hand in metal if your not a rock climber or someone with phenomenal hand and arm strength plus a damn good eye.

We can always bog it up or weld it up and try again. Surely. Although engine is definitely out at this point and stripped.

I'm not being negative also. Stupid issue to have really. That is one PO that needs a good telling off.

 

Yeah, I should have told myself that last year and just bought a new bike.

Yeah, I'm aware of all that, but the difference is $350 or probably at least over $1000 for an engine out job. It's not the drain pan, it's the oil filter, which is part of the lower crank case. I think my saving grace in this situation is that the oil channel appears to go up into the engine and I should be able to block fragments with a rag (or cotton balls or anything really) and a combination of that, plus a greased drill bit, to catch the rest of the swarth. I don't see what pulling the drain pan would do, though doing so would allow me to check the thread on that too and repair as needed.

The side project is going to be to remove the headers without causing more damage...

Yeah, I actually do rock climb, though I haven't been in a few months. My arms have certainly gotten weaker, unfortunately. I should go back to the gym to train up my muscles for more wrenching. I also paint miniature figurines on the side, so my eyes are pretty good. I guess the question is whether my drill can hold a drill bit that size, or if there's a way to use another tool...

 

Yes, I know that this particular operation you are considering has to do with the filter housing threads in the lower crankcase. But that passage which is the oil return passage OUT of the filter leads into an oil gallery and then directly to the crankshaft main journal and rod bearings, as well as up to the cams, etc. This main oil gallery runs side-to-side in the lower crankcase, and can be accessed by remove those two large, hex-cap plugs that sit directly under the large round "YICS" crank-end engine covers (actually called "(oil) pump covers" by Yamaha). So removing those end plugs (careful; they're some kind of cast, weak pot-metal that fractures easily) and somehow blocking off that passage would go a long way to making sure that nothing gets in there.....because anything metallic that gets in there is going directly to the crank bearings, which is never a good thing (and possibly even worse if it goes to the cam bearings).

Typically, to bore a perfectly aligned hole thru an existing hole (which is what you are trying to do), the object to be drilled will need to be jigged up on a drill press table (if drilling vertically) or on a line-boring table (if drilling horizontally), the absolute center of the existing hole and its axis determined and "everything else" (in this case the lower crankcase), which --- if still attached to the rest of the engine --- then the entire engine would need to be positioned, and then the drilling / tapping / heli-coil or the like inserted. That's the only real way to insure that the new hole and insert are "square" and positioned properly.

If trying to do it with the engine still in the bike, you'll be drilling "kinda upwards" and from a semi-upside-down perspective. I'm not saying that's impossible ..... and you've talked about making up some type of fixture to insure a straight penetration ..... so maybe it can be done successfully, but if I were a betting man, I'd take the other side of that bet (and that is in no way a comment on you or your skills; I'd take the other side of that bet if a practiced, experienced machinist attempted to that, too).

The surest way to do this job is this:

a) remove engine from bike (not all that hard, and the best way to do that is to lay the bike on its side after you've disconnected the shaft drive, etc.......you can find threads on this topic on the forums)

b) flip the engine upside down and remove the lower crankcase. This is a sorta pain to do, but it means you don't have to carry the entire engine to a shop, and you don't have to disturb the cylinder head, pistons, rods, or crank.

c) take the lower crankcase to the machine shop (I'd pop out the crank main journal bearings that will still be in this lower crankcase section, just for safekeeping, and make sure you note which bearing came from which position.....they might be all different from each other!). Jigging up the (rather small) lower crankcase section will be infinitely easier for a shop to do than dealing with an entire engine.

d) also to consider, and which I think you already noted: the cost of the proper sized heli-coil or time-sert insert is cheap; it's the special driver tool for installing the insert which is the expensive part of the ordeal (and driver tools tend to be specific to each size threads kit). So, if you can find a shop that already has the proper sized "kit" for that size threads, then really all you should be paying for is the cost of an insert, some "amoritization" fee for the use of the tool, plus the labor. I would think this would be much less than $1,000.00. In fact, if you can find a used driver tool (for whichever style insert you plan to use) on eBay, etc......then you can take that to ANY machine shop (along with purchasing a few of the correct sized insets) and really get the cost down.


NOTE: the above is free advice, so please consider it as such.....

 

I really do appreciate the advice, by the way.

I guess I'm not understanding something about the oil return passage.



This, from this angle at least, seems to just go "up". Perhaps it also goes to the left and right, but it's hard to tell from this image exclusively. The idea I had was, "if the passageway was plugged, stuffed with something that would prevent the shavings from getting past, whether it was with a rag, or something else that suitably prevents debris from getting back into the crankcase, then there wouldn't be fragments to worry about getting into the crank, because it's plugged up. There is a separate hole to the bottom right, outside of where I need to screw in, but that also can be taped off or blocked. Maybe even cover the visible end of the rag with some dollups of grease, and when you're done, pull out the whole rag and the action should catch any stray fragments and clean out the hole in one smooth motion"

You can see an example of what I'm talking about here:
https://teamghettoracing.com/mechanical/other-mechanical/thread-repair-timesert-install-sump/

They cover the drill bit, the counter sink, and the tap, all in grease, which appears to do a very good job absorbing the metal fragments, along with lubricating the drill & tap. (also you could technically use the tap guide in the kit as a way to center the drill bit as well, though I was thinking of something that I could feasibly fashion into a guide that could be secured to the bike so it's one less hand to need...on hand...)

While this link specifically is for an oil pan, I have seen multiple people so far, at least claim, that this worked for them, on other bikes. Maybe even flush some oil through the system to make sure afterwards. Hypothetically, if this was enough, then the problem is less "is there metal fragments in the crank" and "did I make the hole straight enough", where I've also read from various folks that the existing hole itself would potentially act like a pilot hole, and help to center the bit as well. As I've not actually tried this myself, I can't claim the truth of that, but it seems to make logical sense, up to a point.

In any case, even if I wasn't to do that, I don't think I currently can do this in the "correct" way. I live in an apartment complex, and the bike is parked in my spot of the parking lot. Even if I hypothetically could remove the engine to take off the lower half of the crank case, I couldn't leave the engine there while I bring it to a machine shop and have them do it. I could possibly remove the engine, flip it over on the grass, crack the lower half open and cover the engine with a blanket, while I drill in the hole myself, and then carefully put everything back and hope and pray I don't break something else. As long as the engine is put back into the bike by the end of the day. I'm confident about a lot of things, but I am not confident about that.

Try as a girl might, I have biker friends locally, but no one who has a garage for me to set up shop to do this. So, I feel like I have a few options:

1. try my idea and see if it works
2. pay the local mechanic to do all this for me. They would probably do all the steps you are suggesting, and I can't imagine it'd be a dollar less than $1000. I could easily see it balloon into $2000. And there's so much project creep here: what if they open it up and find plastic fragments from the chain guides? what if the starter gears are dogged? Suddenly one issue becomes an entire engine rebuild. (do I have any evidence this is the case and I just don't know it? no, but anything can happen when you have anxiety)
3. pay a storage unit for at least a month, and also pay to tow the bike there, so I can work in an area with battery lights, but no drill press, unless I want to own a drill press I can't use anywhere else, because no garage, and no shed, and I'd have to try and resell or continue paying for a storage unit until I can get rid of it
4. give up

I wouldn't spend all this effort to give up and sell the bike when it has sentimental value, though I'm going to have to come up with a solution to put the bike somewhere over the winter because it can't stay in the parking lot over winter either. I possibly could beg favors from friends to help with the towing, but past that I'm kind of on my own.

I fully accept that my idea is risky, and yeah doing it this way is cutting corners. If I had a garage or some sort of space that I could putter with each of these steps over the course of a couple weeks, then yeah I would do this exactly the way that you're suggesting. I just don't currently have that option available to me. If you are suitably convinced that my idea won't work, I really only have two options. I either pay for the repair shop to do it for me, or try to get a storage unit and do it in there instead.

 

Well, you sure have all the stars aligned against you......I guess it's a matter of asking "what's the worse outcome?" and of course the answer is that the procedure fails or possibly even causes more harm than good. So then your options are to give up totally on this project and move on to something else, or source a used replacement engine from somewhere....650 engines are somewhat common. There's risks with a used engine, of course, but due diligence can eliminate many potential problems.

I feel for you, it's a tough situation and decision to make (especially with the cost of a time-sert set).

Well good luck and best wishes for whichever way you end up going. And that was a pretty good and thorough article that you linked to.

 

I elected to not bother doing it myself and have the shop do it properly, since the risk of having the shavings go inside the cavity, even with my best efforts, would still have a (small) chance of a metal shaving getting in there, even if I plugged the hole, and even if I used grease on the drill and tap to capture the fragments. and even if I pulled the fabric through, there could still be shavings caught that make its way back into the engine. Add onto the other issue of "am I confident I can get a 90° laying in a parking lot to make sure the hole isn't off-center or cut into the aluminum?" and the answer to that is a strong "maybe?" and both of the consequences of being wrong is either 1. a new engine or 2. lower crankcase shell for the same year and make, to make sure it aligns properly (which you can't seem to easily get just that part, at that point you kinda just need to get a whole new engine, and then you're back at square 1.) In the case of both of these situations resulting in the same consequence, I will let a professional deal with all that, instead of me. (now if the scenario was different; if I had a garage and could do this in a regulated space where I can tackle this slowly over the course of a few seasons, I would probably elect to just buying a 750 engine and rebuild it from the ground up. That's like $400+another $400 or so for freight shipping since these suckers are like 180 pounds, though)

So the shop will handle the responsibility of fixing the oil filter hole, and, barring any surprises like worn starter clutch gears or dissolving chain guides that would only be apparent once the cases are split, I have other things to work on once the bike is back (assuming late august at this point, if not late september depending on what they say)

So I have a few other questions in the interim:

• The footpegs rubbers are all ratty, and I can pull them off by hand. The rubber of the passenger pegs is better but they're split at the seam, and I'd like to replace them entirely to black painted metal pegs
  • I see they're connected with what looks like rivets, can I punch these out and install different ones? Which ones would fit? Googling designs I see a couple I want but I have no idea about dimensions, or fitment
• How do I get the footrest mounting bracket off? The paint is coming off and I would like to repaint it. I see it is connected to a rod that holds the rear of the engine up.
  • Is there a way to support the engine with the brackets off? Can I use a car hydraulic jack on the underside to hold it in place, or would that put too much pressure/damage on the oil pan or other part of the engine. Would running a ratchet strap around the engine to the top of the frame work instead?
• How do I get the grab bar off? This also needs to be repainted.
  • The shocks connect to the grab bar, and the swing arm, so how do I hold the rear half of the bike up while changing shocks or replacing the grab bar? Is the service stand enough for this?
• Rear shocks I want to upgrade to heavy duty, full black, progressive shocks series 412. I read the OEM shocks are 12.5 but ones online I can find are either 12" or 13"
  • Would it be better to get 13"? I'm 5'8" and can already flat foot the bike as is, but the bike overall feels lower than it should (might be because of the 4-1 mac exhaust someone installed), so I don't mind the bike being raised more, though I don't know how to do that.
• The underside of the rear chrome fender (and technically the front, as well) is rusted to hell. I was planning on keeping the outside chrome (still in good shape) and sanding down the underside and spraypainting it black to contain the rust further.
  • Would regular paint + clearcoat be good or should I get some other material? I don't care what the underside of the fenders look like, just that rust stays away for a while.
• I want to upgrade the horns to hi/low dual horns on the XJ catalog, has anyone done this, and any issues with doing so?
• I may want to consider getting progressive shocks, for the forks. Does anyone know where to get ones for XJ650 forks? I've also heard that getting an "emulator valve" will help as well, but I'm not sure if it's worth it
• The chrome on the rear axle rod is flaking off, I'd like to fix that but I don't know how
  • The rod itself seems fine, no scoring on it. When I replaced the rear tire, I made sure to cover it with grease, and put some grease on the inside of the rear tire races, and also took the left and right bearing dust covers off and put a little more grease in there (one was almost dry) but I couldn't get at the middle bearing, but it always seems installing the axle rods on the front or back scrape off half of the grease from installing
• I want to replace the grips and install end-bar mirrors, but I am not sure how to do this

 

Long list.
I'll only answer a couple.
The rear shocks give the default height.
If you use the centre stand and they are less than normal you have to lift a lot more weight to get it on the stand. Inversely too long and ... Well you get it.
I think the idea is to keep the uni joint as straight as possible in normal riding conditions.

Fenders, dead on. Clear up the rust and paint them with thick ugly hardcore paint. In other words attempt to rock proof them like the underside of a car.

Footrest mounting bracket bolt will slip out with a bit of a jiggle unless it's rusted in of course. Most if not all of the weight is at the front on the engine mounts.

Horns... Umm yeah. I had two... At some point. They worked. Can't remember the last time I beeped anything mind you. Sorry not helpful.

Grab bar... On centre stand you can stick a piece of wood under the tyre, jiggle it and remove the shocks. Then, I guess, fiddle with that. Same in reverse putting the shocks back on, or just lift the wheel one handed of course.

 

I was restoring my '72 CB350F and it had rust on the underside of the fenders. I got some rust remover and brushed it on, let sit, help it a bit with a wire brush. Repeat, rinse with water... etc. Once clean enough, still some residual rust showing... wipe down with acetone or alcohol to ensure clean, mask it off and spray it with a silver paint....... final touch, is get some clear LeakSeal spray, it goes on kinda thick, couple of coats and let dry. Leaves a very durable rubber-like finish and looks cloudy silver when you're done. Nobody will know, lol.

I had to buy a new replica front fender, and I gave it the FlexSeal treatment as well. Looks/feels great.





Painted silver




Final with FlexSeal clear........

 

Yeah that's basically what I'm going to do, and the underside of your fenders looks like mine

 

I got the bike back, here's what the shop said (trimmed for brevity):

"There were plenty of good threads left to install the spin-on filter adaptor; I don't think that is going to give you any issues." (they used a tap to clean the existing threads)
"The running issues seem to be due to fouled plugs, but I'm not sure as to how they became fouled. I checked the sync and tune on the carbs; they needed a very minor adjustment, but not enough to explain any running issues. I cleaned the plugs and took the bike for a 7+ mile test ride, going through a wide speed range and all gears. I had no issues at all; the bike ran great from idle through full throttle in all gears. After the test ride, I pulled the plugs, and they showed no indication of a rich running condition and no fouling at all."

(the plugs are new, as are the ignition coils)

Here's an outline of everything I've done or had done on the bike so far since I've had it:
- I've done a valve clearance, those are, to the best of my knowledge, now in spec, they were not in spec. 6/8 of them were out of spec, and intake #4 was 3 shims out of alignment. I'll do another valve clearance in about 1000 miles to re-test, and then shift back to every 5000 miles.
- went over entire wiring harness, cleaning everything and checking for faults, don't see any
- removed carbs, cleaned carbs in ultrasonic, upgraded from 40->41, had 112 already but replaced with new ones anyways (new ones have the # etched on the face, not just the sides, I like that more), replaced floats to all-metal variants, float levels have been set, new o-rings, new seals, etc. (bike has airbox and a 80's 4-1 Mac exhaust header)
- upgraded to spin-on oil filter, not seeing any leaks around that section, however (see below)
- final drive oil has been changed (last october?)
- final drive to rim splines have been greased, and o-ring changed
- carbs have been sync'd with a tool, not just bench sync'd, though I don't think it's been color tuned and I don't know if they've blanked the yics port or not. The shop's comment is that she could be running a "little rich" but any adjustment one way or another from where it currently is makes it run worse so they set it to a good level instead.
- added inline fuel filter
- auto petcock has been checked to see if it's working good, shop says it is
- replaced fusebox with blade fuses
- both tires have been replaced with Dec 8, 2025 tires.
- rear tire brake shoes have been replaced (had OEM brakes with lots of material but replaced cause asbestos, lol), along with new nuts and bolts, and new grease
- rear tire shroud was rusty, sanded it down and repainted it
- rear drum cover clear coat was failing and corrosion was coming through. sanded down and repainted.
- tried to clean the rear tire rim as best as I could, and repainted. It's not perfect but I think when I go to change the rear tires, when those have eventually run their course, I'm gonna bring the rim to a sandblast booth and knock the hell out of it. the corrosion was seeping through the paint, and the texture on the rim is bumpy, which I'm not a fan of.
- front brake pads have been replaced
- new stainless steel brake lines, and flushed
- new front brake assembly; master cylinder + lever + rear brake cable
- tech rebuilt caliper (though the paint is peeling and I may end up opting to take that to a shop to powdercoat it). it's missing its dust shroud, and parts of the exposed parts of the piston have surface rust, so it would give me a good excuse to rebuild it.
- front tires has new hi-performance wheel bearings (wasn't a problem but replaced them anyways, probably should have waited)
- new AGM battery
- new in-spec spark plugs, caps, and ignition coils
- made more copies of the keys, only had 1
- cleaned bike, checking for leaks of any kind, or anything is torn or various debris where it shouldn't be
- both front forks have been rebuilt, left fork inner tube has been replaced
- added gaiter boots for the forks to prevent rocks and debris
- new engine oil (twice), most recent time has "Motul 3000 10W-40" in it.

(maybe I'm missing something but that's what I can remember)

I go to pick up the bike, it basically starts within the very first second of touching the starter, and seems to idle well with the choke slightly on. I stall it on an incline (oops ) but otherwise get it home fine.

I am noticing something I have not noticed before, like a buzzing or a slight whistling. I am unsure where it's from. I did notice that the muffler seems to have some rust that has eaten through the lower part, I will probably just clean that spot and jb weld it, since this muffler is basically one of one at this point. I have not seen a single Gemini muffler, anywhere, and I like the noise.

As for the buzzing, I know these bikes can be noisy, even brand new some magazines back then were talking about it. But this is a very obvious buzzing while riding the bike. You let off the gas and it stops, and you start to hear it around 3000 rpm or so. I didn't push the engine to see when it stops. Do we think that's engine mounts, or something else?

I will say, the bike otherwise is running extremely good. I think this is the cleanest I've ever had her run with me.

However besides that, there is one thing that I am seeing that is making me go HRMM



Why is this wet? I did see this area looking like this a previous time, so I cleaned it up and I thought it was dry but maybe I was wrong. You see it's wet on the top left and middle hole.

 

You can see the spin-on filter is installed and what kind of clearances I was working with. Shop says they were able to install it per the instructions provided here, without any issues, and install the filter without removing the headers.

 

That is the crank oil channel plug.
It looks like someone put an oily hex key in it to me.
Degrease and check it later.
If it leaks it will be around the sides, as it has an o ring under its edge. Or the edge will crack off and will leak. You'd have to drill a hole in the Hex socket to make it leak from inside I reckon.

 

The thing that concerns me is I've seen it oily like that before. I'm pretty sure that I noticed that and cleaned it.

Based on visual evidence of the bike, I think the bike had gotten dropped on its right side, at some point in the '80s. There's scrape marks on the right side of the tank, there's scrape marks on the right side of the headlight, there's scrape marks on the right side of the tachometer, there's a crack on the right side oil pump cover (which does nothing) And my assumption is that that crash is what made the previous owner include a really cheap and janky angle iron in place of actual crash guards. This crank oil channel plug is on that same side. I'm also wondering if all of that RTV underneath the valve cover has something to do with it?

 

It's a weird sort of thing.
Looks robust externally but basically it keeps the channel sealed with an oring on the fairly weak edges.
I've had a cracked one which leaked but I had a replacement so not a big deal.
Remove with a big Allen key, shouldn't be hard since it's well lubed internally.
One of the easier things to remove but really not removed for any particular reason normally.

 

Well she just had oil change so I'm not going to do another one for a little while. I'm going to keep an eye on it and just make sure it's not worse. And if it continues, then I'll just do an oil change early and then get the o-ring from Len. No biggie.

What about the comment about the whistling or the buzzing that I mentioned? What could that be about, and is there something I should do for further testing?

 

The XJ has the definite whistling from the gears. Kinda like a signature. I'm not sure if thats what you are experiencing though as it's not like a buzzing as far as I know.
Generally you could hear an XJ750 going down the road... back in the 80's easily, because of the whistle they make just cruising.

 

I rode it a few miles again today, I can start the bike still within the first second of pressing the button, I don't have to even touch the throttle anymore to start it. That's exactly what I want it to do.

I was listening pretty intently and it sounds and feels like I can tell that the motor is rotating, it has this particular like, whistling sound of either the crankcase or the pistons, but definitely sounds like a "rotational" sound. However there is another sound overlayed around certain rpms that sounds like something is buzzing, like a vibrating sound, and not a rotational sound. IDK what that is.

not related to that, the Shop was saying that bikes from this era have notoriously "soft" suspension, so I think that'll be a later project. The ride seems pretty soft which is fine, but I'll be interested in getting new shocks and new fork springs. I just don't know where to get stiffer progressive springs from. Len doesn't carry them so I'll have to find someone else, and it seems like they either have the 650 seca springs, or they have the 750 maxim springs. Not sure how to compensate for that in the 650 maxim forks. They also said don't bother with emulators, since I'm not racing. Which is true. I only am interested in going exploring and city driving with this

I know I can get 12" progressive 412-series heavy duty shocks, which should fit. iirc the shocks are 11.5 OEM but I can only find 12" or 13" shocks.

 

If you had pods, they make funky sound on acceleration and some particular RPMs.
Maybe something vibrating. My horn was vibrating against the fairing bracket, which drove me nuts, at a certain rpm till I tracked it down.

 

I also notice that sometimes it's very easy to upshift (but not downshift) into the wrong gear. On my way home tonight I'm pretty sure I went from 2-4 accidentally, or at least I thought I heard two clicks when I did one upward motion. Doesn't happen on downward strokes. It also doesn't happen all the time. Nothing made any Bad Noises but it still made me nervous

 

This might help.

Generally a little blip of the throttle after pulling the clutch before shifting down.
Pretty much the engine needs to be going a bit faster than it was with the higher(number) gear for the gear dogs to align easily.

Well thats my story and I'm sticking to it!

As for up, I used to wear steel cap boots and never noticed up issues. After wearing non steel caps It became very obvious about the up sweet spot and not bruising the crap out of the top of your foot.

 

I bought some riding boots



but it seems to happen with any boots. It's not every time. Just some times I click up and I could have sworn I heard two clicks.

 

Never two clicks here. Just the occasional (embarrassing) high rev after shifting into neutral instead of 2nd.

 

Rev bombing the intersection is a time honored tradition

 

I don't have to pin the throttle anymore to start the bike, I just turn the key to on, and it starts before I can do One Mississippi. I rode the bike again yesterday and I got off the bike and as soon as I was off I wanted to get back on the bike, but it was like 11pm.

I love that the bike starts with no issues at all now, and doesn't fight me at intersections (except when I try to pull from stopped in second gear instead of first...)

 

I'm starting to think of changing the various lights to LEDs, I've been driving a lot at night lately and I'm noticing how dim the OEM headlight is unless I flip it to High (of course that isn't great for other's eyeballs...) Like, it's...functional, but I'll be honest. It sucks.

Increasing the wattage (even slightly) converting from sealed->modular is making me think of cost savings to reduce strain on the alternator, which logically is putting me in the direction of LEDs.

Pouring over the catalog, I see various dashboard lights can be upgraded, but for the turn signals it looks like I'd want to pick up a diode wires kit, flasher (and an aftermarket holder since I'd be picking flasher that keeps the auto-cancelling relay), and the turn signals.

However, I can't seem to find any info on what LEDs to use for the brake light and the license plate bulbs. Sounds like a red LED for the brake, and white for the license plate, but what size are they? is it a wedge bulb?

looking at the manual, it maxes out at 205.8w @ 12v for lightbulb usage? that's 17.15A just for the damn light bulbs, with a 19A alternator. even assuming only one blinker would run at any time, that's still almost 125w lol. Upgrading it to LEDs will be good for my bike then.

 

The best way to upgrade the power of your headlight is to use a relay (and special harness). The light output from incandescent (non-LED) bulbs varies significantly depending on the input voltage...and this is true whether it's a super-duper halogen bulb or otherwise. Almost all automotive headlight (and, really, all others, too) bulbs are rated for output at a current draw of 12.8 volts DC (VDC). But are you actually getting 12.8 VDC at your headlight (or other bulbs)? Probably not....and if you want to check for yourself, hook up a voltmeter and read the voltage drops while the engine is running at various speeds. Do you get 12.8 VDC (or above)? Probably not. And that's where the problems begin.........

http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/volt_drop_test.html

and here’s an easy-to-understand guide to how to perform a voltage-drop test:

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/330


Most standard headlight bulbs are rated at 55/60W (low/high beam) output at 12.8 VDC....which is actually pretty bright. The problem is that all the connectors and contacts between your battery and the headlight bulbs "steals' (drops) voltage...and that's true even when your bike is brand new, never mind the corrosion that has built up in all those connectors over the 40+ years of unprotected exposure to the elements......and voltage drop vs. light output is NOT a straight-line relationship. A 10% voltage drop (from 12.8 to 11.5 VDC) reduces light output by about 30% (so your 55/60W bulb becomes a 38/42W bulb)!

A headlight relay harness connects your headlight directly to the battery, and the handlebar switch just controls the relay (whether the relay sends battery voltage to the low- or high-beam terminal of the bulb), and relays can be switched with very low voltage inputs....so even if the voltage coming out of the headlight switch is 11.8 (or 9.4, or....you get it), the relay gets switched and provides full battery voltage to the headlight.


A better-design HEADLIGHT (the fluted glass lense and the chromed reflector shell) can help "put" the light where it's most useful, but won't change the output ("how much light").....but they can help put the light that is being output in the right place, so that the light that's being output isn't "wasted" by going to the wrong (or less useful) places.

BULBS can help a little bit; there are differences in output between a standard bulb and a halogen-gas filled bulb, but in the overall scheme of things, those are somewhat small differences compared to the voltage available to the bulb.

Any type of "colored" bulb (which is typically due to the color "temperature" of the bulb) typically can only decrease the light output. Although there are arguments concerning how sensitive the human eye is to red vs. blue light at night-time, most of the "colored" bulbs are just a marketing gimmick....although you may think it makes you look "cool" to others.

BTW, motorcycles originally were equipped with "anti-vibratory" bulbs (or "high-vibration-tolerant" bulbs) which have thicker filaments and stronger support guide wires. The thicker filament requires more voltage to produce a similar light output, as more of the available voltage is converted to heat (instead of to light). But they tend to last twice as long as non-specialty bulbs.

Lot more info in the section titled HEADLIGHTS: in the electrical section (about halfway down the page,

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/thre...ection-d-electrical-system.44641/#post-395220

 

I was reading somewhere here to get a red light for the brake light because it would help since it's behind the red refractor. That also seems to be the design behind the LED instrument cluster lights on the catalog too (high beam indicator is a blue led bulb)

I was leaning towards getting an LED headlight, various different quality options, good and bad there, but my oem 60w high beam is about 5amps (assuming it's getting no power reduction, as you say) and the one I was looking at was 5w, or a 91.67% amp reduction. Too bad the lenses don't have the old style lense though.

I was in traffic the other night, just idling because of construction, and staring off into the distance of the truck in front of me, I noticed my headlight dimmed considerably when the engine revv'd down a bit. It was idling steady and just randomly lost maybe a little bit of power, but I was idling for a few minutes at that point (not that much, just enough to be obvious that the light dimmed). I revv'd the bike a bit and it steadied out again. That's what started this line of thinking

 

I bought a simple, I think it's h4, led replacement and it works.
But... It has a fan attached and it required some remodeling of the housing. Cut a hole basically for it to stick out of.
Converted the indicators also.
But different indicators completely.
All in all works well.
Although doing the dash lights with led was too bright and I went back to incandescent bulbs.

 

Ahh the CMS though... I have a 750 dash.
It is not happy with the lack of brake light voltage being returned and flashes the warning light constantly.
Fixed it by removing the globe for the warning light.
So yeah, if you are a purist, a bit evil.
If you really only want a fuel gauge, like me, no prob.

 

I did consider buying a used 750 dash but I'd want to reset the odometer to match what mine currently is, but I probably will just go third party so I can get a fuel gauge that works with these resistive senders. Any suggestions? Thinking something ACEWELL since that's what Mezzo did

 

I installed a toolbag to the front, a phone mount, and a voltmeter/phone charger.

Unsure if I like the toolbag in the front there, the bottom part of the headlight assembly pushes into the top of the bag, and it seems to take up a lot of space for potential airflow when I eventually upgrade it to install an oil cooler (probably next year).

While I have the upgraded spin-on filter installed, I do realize you have to take the oil filter off, the nut holding the plate, the plate (but not the bolt), install the oil cooler block, then the plate on top, then the nut, and replace an oil filter. Part of my anxiety here is that the extra, what, inch? of the oil cooler block will potentially do two things: bump the passthrough bolt, and prevent the oil filter from being installed due to the headers. But, I'm not sure. That's probably a next year thing to worry about.

The voltmeter works fine though, and charges my phone! The phone mount seems reasonably secure but I might replace it with something else.

I don't see any leaks, that crankcase hex bolt is dry as a bone. However I noticed that a lot of the black-oxide bolts I installed are already starting to get surface rust, which is unfortunate.

edit: I noticed that the rubber dampers that hold the instrument cluster are rotted away along with the right side bolt holding it in place, is installed backwards...

 

No suggestions. I'd like to replace my dash also but haven't found anything that is either too sparse or too spaceshipish.