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XJ650 Starting issues

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by RideAlong420, Oct 10, 2025.

  1. RideAlong420

    RideAlong420 Member

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    I thought that this was only the case on XJ550 models, otherwise you wouldn't use that bolt.

    Are you saying adding an oil cooler on the XJ650 Maxim will introduce that bolt back into the system?
     
  2. cds1984

    cds1984 Well-Known Member

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    Good question.
    I have both xj750 and xj900 and they both use that block addon for the oil cooler. You physically can't remove the engine from the frame without removing it first.
    My knowledge is reduced to those two models.
    I don't imagine it would be different for the other models but it could be.
     
  3. RideAlong420

    RideAlong420 Member

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    Also in the case of adding anti seize to the bolt that goes in for the spin on kit, how do you account for the torque spec where some of it has loctite and the other part has anti seize?

    Instructions say set it to 20! Foot pounds, but with anti seize that is what, 25% less right? Also the base bolt is 11 so I'm a bit concerned if the threads can handle 20 unless it can get into the threads in the back that this bolt can't reach by itself

    I'm assuming the remaining threads in the crankcase are tapered or something, because I guess I don't quite understand why it can't be hand tightened further, otherwise
     
  4. cds1984

    cds1984 Well-Known Member

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    Kinda an idea of the oil cooler block with a transac 4into1 system. You can see the block in one pic.
    PXL_20260707_162653040.jpg PXL_20260707_162748289.jpg
     
  5. cds1984

    cds1984 Well-Known Member

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    I have never seen a tapered thread in these engines. Definitely don't assume that.
     
  6. RideAlong420

    RideAlong420 Member

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    I guess I'm not sure why it can't be tightened further (by two finger)

    The length of the threads on the bolt I think, I would need to double check, is shorter than the available threads in the oil filter hole. That image I attached went in super smooth and with no issues. Doesn't wiggle, doesn't feel cross threaded, feels like a brand new bolt in a brand new nut of the correct sizes and fitment.

    I'll double check the length of the threads with my caliper tonight.

    I will say the new bolt and the OEM bolt are different overall lengths, the new one with the larger head is a few mm longer overall.

    Take a look at the attachment: this is the old bolt. It has this weird "taper" like maybe it was stretched? Idk if this is normal for this bolt. The new one doesn't look like it shares that same shape.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. cds1984

    cds1984 Well-Known Member

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    When you create a thread on a bolt with a die it is tapered at its end point. Like the tap pic I sent earlier but the inverse. The meat is stripped away but there will be a taper at the end of both tools if not going all the way. Maybe the bolt just doesn't need to go all the way in and that is confusing the issue. Measure it against the oil filter umm, cowling thing, I guess. No real issue with having too much thread if it doesn't bottom out before it tightens that down.
     
  8. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Correct, but........for bikes without the factory oil cooler, then that special union bolt is not used (well, it's used on all XJ550 engines, but that's another story.....),. No-oil-cooler equipped XJ650/XJ750 models (which is 99.5% of what was available in North America) didn't come with an oil cooler, hence no union bolt. The entire rest of the world always used an oil cooler on XJ550, XJ650, and XJ750 models (and many others). Only the XJ650 Turbo an the XJ900 used it here in the USA, and Canadian-only 1982 XJ650RJC Seca models (the red bikes) had them stock.......but those bikes were really "leftover" UK/Euro 4K0 or 4K1 models.
     

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