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Current issues with the new 750 Seca.. (pictures)

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Chorca, Apr 24, 2009.

  1. Chorca

    Chorca Member

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    Hehe, thanks to everyone who's cheerin' me on about this, after messing around with it and seeing just what can be done, I'm very confident I can whip this thing back into shape. I know myself I'm very competent at electronics and such, so electrical problems shouldn't be a big issue for me. It's the other stuff that I'm kind of new to, like all the carb tuning and such.
     
  2. RangerG

    RangerG Member

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    I'd be tempted to keep the air filter and run away from the rest of it. I wish you the best of luck. When you are successful at restoring this bike to a safe, fun ride, you will be very proud of yourself.
     
  3. Thee_oddball

    Thee_oddball Member

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    cracks on tires are NOT good, any on the front REPLACE IT! as for your boot on the carbs , they are like mine, cracked on the outside but MAYBE ok on the inside...they are however $80 (at least the ones i found)...so if its running with no problems right now let them be till you have the extra money. now i noticed you forks are pretty rusted at the top, i would take a wire brush to the effected areas and clean all the rust of them and then cover the areas with spray in bed liner till you can buy new tubes, as for the rubber bushing between the tank and the frame you can make one out of several layers of cut vinyl till you can find and OEM or used one, as for the electrical ..."hodgepodge" just get some proper connectors and a nice pair of wire strippers...pinch connectors are the easiest to work with. have fun
     
  4. Chorca

    Chorca Member

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    Yeah, it's having issues.. Idles at 4000RPM when it's warmed up, so there's definately a leak somewhere.. I'm pretty sure they've never been changed too. Most of this will get sorted out I'm sure when I start tearing into it.

    I haven't started yet because I'm moving in about seven days and the last thing I need is bike parts all over the place to lose! I'll start work again in a couple weeks and then we'll really see what I need and such.

    Thanks for the help!
     
  5. Chorca

    Chorca Member

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    Updates on the 750!

    Well, got the new Mac 4-into-1 exhaust in, along with some new brakes and a Bridgestone Spitfire 130/90-18 rear tire. Threw the new exhaust on and wow it sounds much quieter, and better! I like the all black look of the pipes on the bike and the single exhaust looks pretty nice. I'm going to throw the rear tire on there tonight (taking it to a shop for mounting/balancing) and then putting the rear brakes on as well..

    I kinda forgot there's two front discs and only ordered one set of front brakes, so that'll hafta wait a little bit before I can get them in.. the old ones work pretty well though. Need to get ahold of one of those spin-on adaptors and get the oil changed in both the engine and final drive.

    If nothing else tonight, I ordered in some aircraft grade polarizing film from www.polarization.com and I'm going to try and repair the instrument cluster so that I can actually read what the computer is complaining about and fix it.. The warning light is getting a little annoying riding at night...

    I'll post pictures when I get home tonight.
     
  6. Stamplicker

    Stamplicker Member

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    Did the previous owner look like this guy??

    [​IMG]
     
  7. nsosh5

    nsosh5 Member

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    wow wow wow just remember it wont be done tomorrow or next week just remember time and patience.
     
  8. ManBot13

    ManBot13 Well-Known Member

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    That's the rear brake switch right? I thought that you bend it to adjust it. Mine was bent a little and it seemed that bending it a little more was the only way to keep it on there and make sure it accuated the switch.

    Was I wrong to assume this?
     
  9. tennsouthernbelle

    tennsouthernbelle Member

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    But but it has an airbox, AND and NEW air filter!!

    I'm the optimist of the group.

    The rest of it I'm just wondering WTF do people THINK?! I just answered my own question, the majority don't think... anyway..

    When you figure out the slow leak on the tire thing let me know. Mine does the same thing. It's been mounted, re-mounted, the wheel wire brushed and mounted again... damn thing STILL leaks.
     
  10. 85MaximXX

    85MaximXX Member

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    tires are shot He may have had them put on in Sept.(of 99') Don't ride too far on those plz. Pic 6 look like someone destroyed the scre there is still a rass somehting in there. Good luck THat is going to be surgery to get the old out and save the threads.

    The spring pic looks like it goes to the brake light switch a sure sign it was sticking probably from the pads being so badly worn. The good news most of the stuff you pictured isn't that hard of a fix but it will take some time.

    I hope you at least got a good deal on the bike
     
  11. Chorca

    Chorca Member

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    It was $650. Not terrible.. but as I go I find more interesting things..

    Had to wait on the new tire and such so I decided to pull the instrument cluster and fix the LCD polarizer. Popped the headlight out, disconnected the wires, tugged the bucket back and I see something interesting on the back of the instrument cluster.

    " '81 XJ750 Seca " written in white paint pen. Aparrantly it was a pull from a junkyard. Soooo.. I don't even know what the actual mileage is. The cluster works though, and after pulling it apart and replacing the LCD's polarizer with a much better one, it's clear as day. Now I can actually see what problems the warning light is flashing about.

    So on to those problems. Lost my key, so in the meantime a friend took the ignition switch (with key code intact) to a locksmith at his work, got a set of new keys made for free, which was pretty cool.

    While that was happening, I decided to play around with the sensors here and see what's wrong.. Looks like it's complaining about the battery, oil pressure, and brake fluid. I hooked the brake fluid sensor back up and from what I can see the reservoir is full of fluid, so the sensor leads must be too corroded or the sensor failed.
    The oil pressure sensor is in place and I think it's hooked up, but i'll hafta check again.. It might be bad too, there's oil in the bike.
    The battery was probably the least problematic. The PO had done the "tie to positive" fix to it.. with bare crimp connectors.. but without a resistor. So i pulled all that off, gonna redo with some heat shrink and a resistor.

    So I go to pop the locks to see if the others work with the new keys, and the gas cap is being stubborn, so i put some WD-40 in it and it starts to work again, great! Then I try the seat lock, and shoot it with WD-40 as well, but i can't seem to get the key to slide in fully.. it's being blocked somewhere. The mechanism won't turn either, I don't think the last pin is being pushed in properly. It's the correct key blank and all, and it worked with the old key, but for some reason I can't get it to operate.

    I think there might be something jammed inside, so I pulled the seat lock out (with the old remove pins, unbolt latch, remove lock method) and disassembled it completely, but I hafta now figure out how to get the tumbler out.

    It's after this time I also take a look at the Haynes electrical diagram and see what those wires that are stuffed back inside the headlight all taped up are for. Someone cut the clutch switch wires flush with the clutch and shorted them, then stuffed them into the headlight. I'm also missing my sidestand switch. Hooray for safety!
     
  12. Ltdave

    Ltdave Member

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    i had a similar issue with my 550 maxim. in fact still do...

    when i had the bike at MiCarl's shop he spun the wheel with a dial indicator (i assume) and he found there was a flat spot on the rim. ALMOST put it in the "junk: do not use" category...

    you might have a slightly bent rim or bead allowing it to slow leak. i think thats my issue...
     

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