So who here has done cam timing on a DOHC?

The FSM says to set the T mark to make the Left piston TDC. I do and the the exhaust cam timing mark is spot on the arrow (like it should be) however the intake one is left of center to the arrow. that is the only way it will work to keep the cam lobes off of the valve seats. is it right? I can get a full revolution out of the motor this way and it seems alright but every once and a while it kinda sticks a bit. I can take a pic tonite for reference, does anyone know what I mean?

 

Both cam dots should be on the arrows (unless you have aftermarket cams or some other non-stock setup that won't work with the dots on the arrows).

I just did all this the other day so it is fresh in my memory:
Here is the quick and dirty. A detailed method is described in your manual.

To set/reset the timing:
1. unbolt both camshafts from the engine
2. unbolt the sprockets from the cams
3. rotate the engine manually until the 'T' mark aligns with the pointer
4. Place the cams loosely in the engine (with sprockets loose) and place chain on the sprockets. Make sure the cam dots align with the arrow
5. Gradually tighten down the cams then torque. The idea being to bring the cams down level
6. Make any final adjustments so the cam dots align perfectly with the arrow
7. Pulling all cam chain slack on the exhaust cam, lift both sprockets onto the cams. The sprocket holes probably don't line up so you will need to pull the sprockets off and rotate the sprocket (not the cam!) until the bolt holes align. Then put on bolt in on each cam.
8. Place the cam chain guide (the thing between the two cams) back in there
9. rotate the engine to the C mark and adjust your cam chain tension
10. now rotate the engine (always manually) one full rev and your cam dots should still be aligned with the arrows. If not, start again.

 

Is it sort of like this?
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=20022.html

If so, cam chain stretch is to blame

 

no, its nothing like that. It is because I put the intake cam in the only way it would fit but I guess after reading the post above that I should force the cam down properly by tightening the cam cap to depress the cam lobe into the valve keeper. that should square me away. thanks fella

 

Have an Assistant help you place the Exhaust Cam, Sprocket and Chain ... Precisely ON ALL MARKS.

The Cam might need to be MOVED a Degree or two to LINE-UP TDC at the Crank with ALL the Slack pulled-out of the Chain.

There are HEX FLATS on the Cam shaft.
Hold the Cam Shaft with its TIMING MARKER Positioned CORRECTLY.

LOCK the Crank Shaft at TOP DEAD.
Bring the Chain up.
Put the Sprocket on
Lay the Chain on
Lift the Chain and rotate the Sprocket one tooth at a time until the Exhaust Cam is TIMED.
The Crank reads ---> Perfect.
The Cam Mark ---> Perfect.
PERFECT!!!
Bolt the Sproket to the Cam ... Tightly, ... with a 6-Point Wrench
Time the INTAKE Cam Shaft
MOUNT the Intake Sprocket
Tighten the Bolts
Bring the Chain over the Sprocket
At this point ALL Marks should be PERFECT.

Place Shop Rags over the two Cams and Lay-out the Torque Wrench.

Install the Tensioner
Hand Tighten all the Camshaft Sprocket Bolts (Check)
Release the Tensioner ... Observe ALL MARKS.

Yes! ... You did it.
No. ... Start Over. You'll be glad the Sprockets aren't torqued.

Yes! ... Prove it.
Rotate the Engine through 4 Complete revolutions and check the Marks.
Proof is GOOD!!!
Torque Cam Sprockets
Move the Crankshaft to get a good angle on each Bolt.

Thank the person who acted the role of Crank Shaft Lock***

 

the exhaust cam drops in perfectly with the left piston at TDC. The intake cams far lobe hits the valve seat when trying to line up perfectly. So I take it that is how I tighten it down with the cam cap to depress the valve? I guess so.

 

YUP !,..... at any one time a valve is going to be open ,opening or closing somewhere on the motor, so you will have to tighten down the caps against a spring. There is never a position when all are closed......Cheers, Murray

 

Yes.

A Tightened-down Bearing Cap is going to depress some Valves and start to contact some others.

This is why the Cam Shaft has HEX FLATS which allow you to manipulate the Cam Shaft with a 17mm Wrench, to maintain its TIMING INDICATOR on the Timing Mark as the Sprocket and Chain is attached and positioned.

 

petty unbelievable that the FSM is so pisspoor that it doesn't even mention anything about that...

 

It does mention it in a round about way. When the FSM talks about tightening the cam caps "evenly" they are implying that the cams are not sitting level (as would be the case if it was in a position where no valves would be depressed/opened).