To Rebuild or Not to Rebuild

Yes, the brushes and holders were all new as well as the battery.

 

Pull the starter off, and spray some carb cleaner forward into the starter clutch. My prefrence is to let it sit overnight with the starter off (indoors) to allow the carb cleaner to evaporate before putting the starter back on. The other way (which will clean out all of the sludge from the sump as well) is to dose the oil with Seafoam (directions on the container) and ride the bike. I like to do an oil change after 50-100 miles to get some fresh oil in.

 

I kind of like the second way. It says to put one ounce of Seafoam per quart of oil. I'm also guessing that the second way means I wouldn't have to pull the starter off, yes?

 

Correct. The downside is that if there is sludge buildup in the roller channels it might take a bit longer to clean out that way. You should know if that's the cause within a few good rides though.

 

I still have yet to do the Seafoam clean but meanwhile is it possible the starter is staying in the "on" position making that ridiculous whirring/screeching sound?

 

Could be. If the starter button is sticky and contacting the switch...

 

Hmmm, is that the only way? I'm reading things about bad relays, bad solenoids, ect.
Is the starter solenoid and starter relay the same thing? If not, could you tell me where both of them are located?

 

If the starter is not disengaging it will turn into a generator. This can easily be verified by placing a DMM on the output of the solenoid (the one with two large screws that connects directly to the battery). One side of the solenoid (input) that connects to the battery will always be 12V, the other side should be zero volts when the bike is running. If there is an internal mechanical issue with the starter clutch and it is not freewheeling the terminal that should be zero volts will change increasing in value as the motor is revved. This scenario does not cause an electrical issue but does place sufficient load on the engine to affect idle speed.

The other issue can be that the solenoid is sticking closed or commanded closed by a defective starter button, in the case of a sticking solenoid the starter will keep spinning even when the key is turned off. If the starter button is at fault the starter will stop spinning when the key is turned off - you can also look for an oil light in this case as the starter button sticking should illuminate the oil light. This scenario can cause damage to the electrical system as the generated voltage from the starter is fed back into the electrical system as an unregulated voltage supply.

 

After removing the starter solenoid this little plug came out of nowhere. I cannot find the male. Does anybody know where this is suppose to go to? As a reminder I have a Seca XJ550

 

Well, I have determined that the issue is not the starter motor staying engaged. I changed out the solenoid and I unhooked the starter motor while the bike was on idle and the sound was still there. I also put SeaFoam in the crankcase to clean it out a bit and then refreshed with new oil. Sound is still there. The sound, I'm afraid to say, is coming from inside the engine. The only interesting thing about this sound is that it only comes on when I stop. As soon as I apply gas the sound seems to go away but once I stop again the sound comes on. Also, the sound builds up like a siren. If you have any clue what this might be please let me know. I will try to include a video as well. Thanks.

 

I'd drop the oil and inspect the clutch.

 

I STAND CORRECTED. It was in fact the starter motor. I bought a whole engine block off an old Maxim and have been using parts off of it so I thought, what the heck, let's swap out the starter motor. The situation has been rectified. That isn't the clincher though because changing out the starter motor also remedied another situation that has plagued me since owning this bike, IT FIXED THE CHARGING SYSTEM!! For the first time in two years the charging system responds the way it's suppose to. When I gas it you can see the needle on the voltmeter go up immediately. It's never done that. It would take a good ten seconds of building up speed before it would get to full charging output. It also STAYS at full charging output on the voltmeter while I ride where as before it would go down even after 10minutes of riding. I tried everything! I tried swapping out the rotor, stator, RR, cleaned wires, new brushes, you name it, I did it. For some reason the starter must have been constantly drawing from the battery but that would mean the starter solenoid would also have to be on too, righ? However, when I changed out the solenoid I was still having the same issue. I would love someone to explain this to me.

 

Hello. I'm having a little trouble trying to figure out how to replace the front left turn signal. The PO had changed it once before with a heavy metal casing one (the original Seca 550 turn signals are plastic.) I found a plastic light that looks like the original, however, it looks like it might have a different wire set up. The one on my bike that I'm replacing (the metal one) has three wires coming out of it one of which looks like a ground that connects to the screw that holds the socket housing and the other one I found only has two, one of which connects to a metal ring that lies at the base of the spring inside the socket housing. I decided to hook it up the way it's already done on my bike and the funny thing is is that it works as a signal light but it doesn't turn on with the key. Seca 550 has running signal lights. Is it possible that the metal light acted as ground and so that's why the wiring set up isn't working with the plastic?

 

should only be 2 wires ground and hot. 3 wire light you are describing a light that has a dual filament bulb and has a light on as a running light

seca 550 does not have running lights single filament bulb.

there are "spare" hots and grounds in the bucket for a bike with a faring

 

Well this is kind of interesting because all four of my indicator lights turn on when I turn the key.

 

if there is 3 wires you have a dual filiment buld on the holder . could be someone wanted more visibility (to be seen) at night and put them on from another bike .
got a photo?

do they stay solid and also flash?

 

I mod most of my bikes for all running lights just for car to see me. I think it helps but to each their own.

Do you have a multi/volt meter? A 12 VDC test light? Using those to test the wires running to each light will tell you if you have just turn lights or running lights. As stated above if you have three (3) wires running to each light, you can bet it has been modded.

 

First I should say that all four lights are not running lights just the front two and yes they have been modded. I figured it all out and Im good to go. The bulb is a dual filament bulb. I'm curious about these extra spare hots and grounds in the bucket. Do all XJ's have these?

 

yes they are for when you put a cowling on the front

you should pick up that 81 you know of for parts

 

Happy 2020. Nice to be back on here. I finally found all the pieces to the exhaust and waiting on new gaskets. I've been using an old 4 into 1 Kerker and I'm curious how the bike is going to perform with the original exhaust. Having said that, when installing the muffler gaskets is there anything special like including a sealant or something of that nature that I should know about?

 

If your bike was setup for a 4-1 and now you are going back to a stock set up, you have to wonder a few things. Have you looked at the main jets to see if they are stock? Has the air box been modified for the 4-1? As long as it is all stock you should be good.

 

Everything is stock so not worried there but now I'm curious if I should have modified things for the Kerker.

 

A color tune will tell you what is going on inside each cylinder. That and when you take it out if it runs out of throttle or backfires when you let off the throttle. These signs should tell you that it is either too lean, needs to have bigger jets or the fuel level is wrong and starving the engine at WOT. Many posts on how to adjust your carbs for 4-1 exhaust, opening up air box or even changing the air filter. That is if you want the bike to run the best it can. If you are just into riding her and can deal with some of those issues, ride and have fun.

 

color tune is good for seting mixture and the pilott jet circuit. the instructions say you can rev it up for a brief time to see the main jets.

just pull your spark plugs and see what they look like

 

I'm not sure what you mean by running out of throttle but the only issue I had with the throttle is that it would sometimes just not go when I'd take off in first. But quickly releasing the throttle and opening it up again solved that and I just got use to doing that. The spark plugs look great. No sign of rich or lean mixture at all.

 

Could you recommend a good two part epoxy? Would JB Weld work?

 

I would think any two part "clear" drying epoxy would work. Just make sure you clean those pits really well as you don't want active rust under the epoxy. Good luck with that and let me know how that goes, I have to do it too.

 

I honestly don't know any epoxy's.

 

I've used JB weld with great success. If you use a clear epoxy be sure to get one that is rated for constant UV light exposure without yellowing or cracking.

 

My old charging problem has returned on my Seca 550. I didn't ride it for a week and when I turned it on, there it was. It idles fine at around 12.10v but when I open the throttle it goes up to maybe around 12.30v. I tried swapping out the battery and I checked the brushes, those are fine. I ohmed out the stator and rotor, all good. I checked the output from the stator, that's okay. All roads seem to lead to the RR. I did a diode check on it and it checked out fine , however, I think I read somewhere that an RR can be faulty even if the diode check is fine. Any thoughts?

 

Update. It's not the RR. I'm curious about the diode block assembly? If this is faulty can it have an effect on the charging system?

 

this is the bike you put running lights on correct?
the extra wattage constanyly drawing may be the issue remove the bulbs and see what you get


The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide
For all XJ-series models, the maximum available charging output VOLTAGE should be as follows (all values are approximate):

* approximately 500-2000 rpms: 1.8 volts gradually increasing to 14.2 volts
* 2000+ rpms: 14.2 volts up to about 14.8 volts, with a maximum of 14.8 volts (all models except XJ700-X and XJ750-X)

If your charging voltages are too low, suspect the alternator brushes first, then perform the alternator stator and rotor checks as described in the Alternator Section.

If your charging voltages are too high, suspect your Regulator - Rectifier unit first, and perhaps dirty or corroded electrical terminals. The procedure for checking these is too detailed to describe here, and you should consult your service manual for additional details.
t.

diode block controls safety relays oil light test nothing to do with charging.

the photo you posted on FB of your brushes did not look good post it here for second opinion.

do you reconize my avatar?

 

5) Check the condition of your main circuit terminals.....they should be zestfully clean and uncorroded, or you're primed for a variety of problems......not only will your circuits not be getting full power out of your battery, but to add insult to injury, your charging system may think that the battery needs more juice, and so it starts cranking out amps like there's no tomorrow. It's pretty safe to say that neither of those two occurrences qualify as a Good Thing (tm), so...........start at the beginning, and inspect and clean (and then protect, like with di-electric grease or equivalent) all the [/b] terminal connection points[/b]:

* the positive battery post connection to the positive battery cable.
* the positive battery cable connection to the starter relay (or "solenoid").
* the main harness terminal connector from the starter relay.
* the main lead from the starter relay to the starter motor (both ends).
* the "main fuse" contacts inside the fusebox.
* the battery ground cable contacts at both the engine case and at the negative battery post (poor ground are just as bad as poor positive feeds; after all, it takes two to tango, or to complete a circuit, and electricity doesn't care where the restriction occurs).

 

Ha! Yes I do recognize you.

I already changed the brushes and cleaned the copper rings and it did not change anything. I also changed the battery. No change. The funny thing is that my bike was charging fine for the last year or so. Rode great even with the running signal lights. It was my daily driver. I then got sick and didn't ride for a week. When I got better and started the bike the charging issue started. I do park my bike outside and I put a cover on it every time, however, every morning there is a little bit of moisture on the seat even though I cover it up. Daily riding probably wicks away the moisture but I'm guessing that not riding for a week allowed moisture to cause just enough corrosion to develop on a terminal causing some sort of resistance.

The last time I had a charging issue with this bike one of the game changers to figuring it out was changing the starter motor. It was a shot in the dark and I happened to have had an extra starter motor so I just tried it even though I wasn't necessarily having trouble starting the bike. I think what I inadvertently did was in swapping the starter I probably loosened a little corrosion at the connection terminal thus providing less resistance. So, time to go through all the connections. Thanks for posting the steps to cleaning those connections. I will get on it immediately.

 

Success!
Not only that but the bike is charging better!!! I cleaned all the connections from the list up above from XJ550H. I did notice some holes in the sheathing of the ground wire to the battery which I wrapped with electrical tape. I also think I never cleaned the connections to the solenoid or the harness that combines the starter solenoid and positive battery terminal. I had an ah ha moment last night when it occurred to me that I never factored in the STARTING issues I've been having with my bike that I failed to mention here. Occasionally, when I would try to start it up the bike would hesitate for a second before actually turning over. So, I'm guessing there was a little corrosion near the solenoid circuit that I failed to notice. I just figured if the bike is starting those connections should be fine and I didn't think the charging and starting issues were related.
One area of concern is that after all the cleaning, when I started the bike it did not immediately charge to spec. I decided to go for a ride because I hadn't ridden it in a while and again the volt meter in the cluster was only reaching up to 12volts. However, after maybe a half a mile of riding I looked down at the cluster and there it was pointing to 14+ volts!! The needle also stayed consistent where as before I was getting the Mexican jumping bean effect. The bike also feels like it runs a little smoother but that could be anything.
For those who have read my posts in the past the charging system on my bike has been the bane of my existence for the last couple years partly because I was new to bikes but ego also got in the way. I just assumed some people were wrong about MY charging system. Thanks to XJ550H for chiming in on this one and I am once again thankful to XJBikes for all the help and support. By for now but I'm sure I'll be back again soon.

 

Anybody have any “tricks” or can suggest some tools that can get the metal connectors out of the harness. I know there’s a little tab that needs to be pushed back but actually doing it is pretty difficult.

 

Paper clip will work or a dental pic on the side that has the little safety ear. If you look close you will see a locking tab on the copper connector, come in from the wire side with the before mentioned tools and it should work.

 

Another thing to try, if you have one, is a small flat head jewelers screwdriver.

 

I used a dental pick. It turns out the connectors were melted to the plastic harness and were stuck in there.

 

As the days are starting to warm up I'm noticing that my Seca 550 doesn't quite sound as smooth during the day as it does on a cool evening. It's not a huge problem but I can tell. I understand that this might be a slightly rich fuel mixture condition. Everything is pretty well tuned on the bike. Air filter looks good. Spark plugs are looking good. I was thinking of turning all my mixture screws a quarter turn in. Think this would be a good step or should I consider something else?

 

cool cold air is denser bike could just be running better because of that.

 

That's why some vehicles have intercoolers.

 

I still can't seem to find a text book style of adjusting the mixture screws on carbs. I've tried using the Colortune but when I turn the mixture screws litterally nothing changes color. I understand that turning the mixture screws can affect idle so I began at 2 full turns out, synched the carbs, and then began turning Carb #1's mixture screw out until the idle became higher then I would turn it back in to see when the idle would go lower and I basically would find that happy balance. Is this a good way of going about this procedure? When I did this to the first three carbs the idle would change, however, on Carb #4 there seemed to be no difference how far in or out I would go. It just didn't affect the idle at all. I synched the carbs up one more time and the bike runs great but I just wish I knew a correct procedure on doing this job.

 

Tuning by ear is a time-tested method, but it does take a good ear to do it well on a multi-carb engine.

Check the plug on carb#4. Look for where the color change is on the ground strap, and for flecks of aluminum (an indication of being too lean).
Generally speaking 2 3/4 turns out will get you a good running machine, but you'll be just on the rich side which will impact fuel economy a tad.

Also be sure that #4 is actually firing by feeling for heat coming off of the #4 header. An XJ will run all day on 3 and you wouldn't hardly know it if you never heard one run on all 4.