Oil Filter Bolt Stuck and Sump screw Stripping

Hey guys I was planning on changing my oil for winter and the filter but unfortunately both the Oil filter Bolt is stuck and the Screw to the sump to empty the oil is getting stripped when I tried loosening. Am i Cooked? I just decided welp imma plug in the battery and put some seafoam into crankcase and fuel tank. Although there is an insane amount of rust already in the fuel tank so Ill probably just drain the tank when spring comes instead of letting it run through bcz I'm thinking the Seafoam will get rid of some of the rust so wouldn't want that going through the bike.. Any thoughts? especially about the Oil stuff.

 

No, you are not cooked. Pain in the @$$ maybe, but not cooked.

Aftermarket and used replacements are available for both the oil filter bolt and drain plug, so don't worry about that.

Then the question becomes how to remove the sh!thoused drain plug and oil filter bolt without messing up anything else.

What have you tried so far?

 

If there's a lot of rust I'd be looking at that right away.
If its just surface rust that can be flushed out.
Your bike looks to be in pretty good condition.
Gas tanks for these old bikes are harder to replace than any other part.

 

I've used normal screwdrivers and wrenches, I might just have to take off the exhaust just to get more space to really just go ham.

 

How does one flush it out? I'm not sure if it's surface rust or any other kind But I look into the tank and it's got a generous amount of rust on almost the entire inside. Nothing floating as far as I can see in the fuel

 

Just an ask but you are using 6 point sockets and not a 12 point?

 

If any of the bolts are damaged you might need these. Last resort though.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extractor-...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AJ89NO2A57M1Q

 

Yes 6 point, and the Filter bolt looks like it already had a rough time with the last owner as it's rounded. The drain bolt looks goofy since it has a screw going through it with a Nut its strang. Any attempt to loosen the very thin screw starts stripping the head which means I won't be able to get it off at all if im not careful. Or maybe I forget the screw head and go straight for the nut looking thing that the screw is going through, tbh idk.

 

Don't remove the screw get a six point socket on the drain plug.

 

Yep! Do it.
Almost a pleasure working on the oil filter and sump plug with the headers out of the way.

Six point 1/2" drive socket on the plug and likewise on the filter.

 

Be REALLY careful trying to take the exhaust off as that may cause you more trouble and things to fix than you expect. The exhaust studs on the head get very brittle after all the years of heat cycling and are prone to breaking easily. Especially since they are always rusty from the debris from the front tire splashing on them and then heat cycling some more. To get them loose without breaking they need to be repeatedly soaked with penetrant like WD-40, PB Blaster or Kroil. Kroil has the biggest, best reputation for working and is the most expensive. Heating to glowing and soaking and being slow and gentle with the nuts gives the best results. Breaking the studs is very bad and difficult to repair. Almost as bad as breaking the bolts that hold the rubber carburetor isolators to the head. Sometimes making things 'easier" causes more problems than going slower and more carefully in the first place.

 

Welding a big nut over the bolt head is a fairly certain way. Plus you still have the option of continuing to use them with the new, larger head. If you don't have a welder, consider bribing a friend to bring one over. I definitely wouldn't attempt to pull exhaust unless it is the last option... @Fuller56 warning above!!

 

Welding a big nut over the bolt head is an excellent idea! I think I have a previously buggered unit I can practice on.... just in case you know.

 

I have to say this.
I've never had and issue with the exhaust studs.
Heat and lubricant solves all issues.
Care and attention the rest.

In saying that my comment is based on that normally I do the filter and sump plug with the headers on but the most recent time it was after I replaced the head completely, so the headers were off already and it was so much easier doing the filter and sump plug without them in the way that I took note.

Replace the gaskets and you'll need less torque on the studs also.

 

Much better weather in Oz .

 

an alternative to the welding is just grinding (or filing) the hex to a rectangle so you can put a big adjustable on it.
an alternative to that is to keep grinding until the head is gone.

 

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/24-hours-ago.85206/page-7#post-669769