1981 650H "Restoration"

Sounds sweet, looks like a brand new bike!!!!

 

Badge fit and finish work today... Rear shocks are "in the mail" and when they arrive -- I need to remove and polish the grab bar too... Rear brake replaced then too... Really dying to ride it... soon -- maybe this week end.

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Exemplary. Beautiful work, you should be proud.

 

+1.........looking really good. Love that colour!

 

That yellow is gorgeous in the sun! This bike is hurting my eyes, it is so shiny.

 

superb work!!

What tires did you go with?

 

as well as what grips are those?

 

Very nice - love how clean the engine etc is.

 

Thnk you gentlemen for the encouragement!

Rear shocks, tires, brakes, polish back grab bar -- all next not yet done...

Shocks, brakes, polish Grab -- all this week end

Oh, I still haven't put in the new Fuse box (from Len) -- wanted to "get her running" before changing an important variable (e.g. if I changed the fuse box before firing it up, and if it wouldn't have started or ran poorly, then I'd not know if it was my mechanical work (head/piston-ring, cam, shim or carb work, etc.) -- or --- if was an electrical issuse that I caused by installing a new fuz box -- so -- the old fuse and eletrical worked fine, I wanted to leave that possible "variable" constant)

Grips are these:

Avon Grips

 

Great looking build. Love the color, such a nice change from the average black or red. I do have one observation; do they carry the spark plug wires in yellow, or are you going to put more red accents on the bike, say paint the black stripe on the grab rail and the lettering on the plant cases red??....just my $.02.......

 

Really good observation - thank you - I ordered plug wires in red on a whim... I don't believe they are avail in yellow - black probably would've been a more conservative choice - I need to think about a change to black or I like your idea (very much ) for the grab bar trim line - I dunno maybe the red is distraction and I should just get rid of it - I do not want red letters on the motor - Also, there are still a few other details I don't quite like - stay tuned more to come... (After the weekend)

Any and all input is welcome

Thanks

 

--- I think I like the look of these "carbon" turny's
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Don't try this at home kids... The new turn signals clearly make the bike faster I'll have to get a dyno test to measure the difference
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We have yellow plug wire (zero-resistance) in stock...........

 

Thanks -- Didn't know that -- Mine have magically turned black -- see 2nd and 3rd pictures above -- I thought about yellow, but my (above)friend alerted me to the whisker-like look of the red, and I didn't like the idea in yellow either --

However, the grab bar black-stripe will become yellow -- and the stripe on the foot-peg aluminum bar will be yellow ---

Also, my new rear shocks are delayed getting here, so I can't finish the rear-end this week end --- GRRRR

Finally, the bike went for a ride this morning!!!!!!!!!!!

 

How are the cams performing?

 

Len,

I just came back from a lunch run to a quaint little place in Wanamaker, PA (a general store with great soups, sandwiches, fresh pies, and fresh ground coffee)... This run on top of the run I did this morning totals about 50 miles today. I'll continue by saying that I am very glad to have upgraded the front brake "system" given the new performance. I can't stop smiling... ...

As advertised, the cam specs are repeated here: Megacycle cams; part number: 256-00 specs are (I) .354" 254° 108° (E) .354" 254° 108° (stock pistons and springs; mid-range boost; some top-end) ---

...the low and "mid-range" is bolstered... it is not working as hard as it used to. I never liked the RPM range I was experiencing for the "power" returned, and the higher-shrill tone of the bike as a result.

It now has a more "throaty" or "snorty" sound, there is clearly more air moving through the system (bigger gulps, I suppose)... Twisting the throttle immediately raises the front end -- it sits a bit -- growls, then hold-on tightly...

I took it out on the highway for only a 6-mile stretch, overtook a few semis, and wound it up to 80... then got off at the next exit. There is more confidence now in its muscle and brawn out there.

I don't how else to describe first impressions except with goofy adjectives and adverbs, but it is no doubt a more "spirited" bike with "grunt-like" torque.

I still have more work to do and a few more "beauty pictures" after the final work, but this project is soon over, and with plenty of time to spare for spring riding and summer delights after that.

p.s. no plug chops today... was having too much fun, but I do need to see how she's burning
p.p.s. if you want to see what I've put into the whole bike over the winter, refer back to my first post, page 1

 

Good job young man!

 

Maybe, maybe, 1/2 of this assertion is true...

 

Put another 50mi on yesterday -- Question? - Len? (anyone?, Buehler?) - Do these new "organic" brake pads I've put on the front produce MORE dust than the "older" ones?

Maybe it is just because I now stick my nose up close to the engine all the time having spent all darn winter rebuilding and polishing this hunk of metal, but there seems to be brake dust everywhere?

Thanks

--- Brake dust on everything ? (even noticed "it" on my left pant-leg yesterday) -- Gotta hit this with compressed air
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...

 

New brake pads (especially the organics) will tend to dust a bit when new. Break them in gently:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showth ... p?t=765359

 

Did you use EBC's pads to go with the EBC rotors?

 

Fitz, yes, thanks and,

OK Len -- Thanks for the data... That explains that... I've been easy on them...

Just shot the bike with some compressed air after today's spin, particularly the cylinder head and rear assembly

 

OK, XJers -- an update regarding my tuning -- Ignorance was bliss till I finally got in several plug chops -- and -- I am running lean mid-range… I have completed several 5 - 5.5k chops and I am pulling border-line gray-white.

So, first thought, "let me get a little more fuel in the bowls…" -- So I took carbs off -- set floats up about 1mm -- quick level check (top of the spec range) -- carbs back on -- Ohhhh it's definitely "juicy" on the low end (yeh, yeah, no jokes please) -- well forget that for now let's see if we had any effect on mid-range -- so I double checked synch and reset mixture via color tune -- Then: Out for another set of chops… No good -- and all I've done is richen and slop up the low end with hesitation and spit getting out of the hole -- should’ve guessed this was not the right route… OK, Carbs off, levels back to mid-range of the 3mm -- reset mixture - and chop again -- still lean of course (at 5k).

So… I have a few options, and going up a size in the main jet is probably the right route -- I ordered a set of 4 116's (running 114s)… In the mean time (Len's got 'em in the mail today), I was thinking about ways to get the needle up a bit on these HSC32 Hitachis which do not have clips…

Note the needle size is Y-10

So, back under the tank and I get the hat's off. After some inspection I discover that a perfectly fitting, thin washer can be placed 'round the needle shaft and seated under the plastic retainer (of the needle) - this then all sits in the bottom of the piston… thereby raising the needle about .75mm (in this case).

Back out and chop again with needles raised -- some improvement but only slightly gray-brown now -- still too lean. Therefore, I'll put in the 116's when they get here in a few days and will try them with the needle still raised to start the new round of testing.

Further, just as a note on "tips and tricks" -- the use of the hex-head bolts on the hats and bowl-bottoms has REALLY paid off -- the hats are removable easily while still on the bike with the tank raised but not removed.. -- And the bowls come off quickly and without beggaring up those Japanese-size Phillips-head screws.
Here are a few pics of the needle operation:
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One other tip - I am running the JBM Industries diaphrams which DO NOT have a seating tab for correct piston orientation -- we all know the breather holes are engine-side, but when the carbs are on the bike and the tank is raised the hole is blind -- so I put a red dot between the breather holes on the top of the piston to show me the dead-front of the orientation...
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OK, now, if you've disassembled carbs this will make sense -- for the carbs bodies where the needle won't go into the emulsion tube (when the needle is attached to the piston -- you know how the needles tilt to the engine-side of the throat? - there is a tab in the bottom of the piston that causes this tilt -- well, if the needle is screwed into the piston, SOME of the needles simply don't "hit" the emulsion opening when you drop in the piston -- not a problem when the carbs are off because you can stick a finger in the air-box side of the throat and guide the needle in -- But hey we can't do that here -- INSTEAD drop in the piston in w/out the needle "screwed" into the piston, then drop the needle and the washer in - it will fall "perpendicularly" (carefully) and it quickly finds the emulsion tube hole -- THEN come in with the spring and the plastic retaining nut as seen here:
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If you're lean in MID range only it's not the mains. Unless you're on it hard I doubt it's the mains.

Go up to "Euro" spec on the pilots (talk to Len) and see where you're at.

 

Thanks Fitz chopped at 5000 and 5500 also went richer on pilot mixture to no avail pilot is 42 ... Whatsa Euro pilot?

I could try two shims under the needle "in the meantime"

 

From my knowledge the needle controls the mid range. Shimming the needle is fairley common practice to eliminate dead spots, or lean spots, I found from tuning 4-1's and pods.

 

Thanks! -- The "mid" IMHO is likely the confluence of pilot, needle and main... But the general recommendation seems to be to go after mid-range by needle changes -- coming up on the needle (as shown on last page) has helped but I need to do a few more chops...

I complicated things by changing the float levels to top-of-range... It really screwed up low end (not idle) but 2k to 5k acceleration was clearly too rich with burbling stumbling and worsening as the motor became hotter...

So I went back to mid range on the floats and that still wasn't enough... It appears my pilot was too rich. --- I.O.W., on the pilot, while I was still in the blue range, I was too close to yellow (in the "range" of "white to yellow"). I've now put the pilot between "yellow and white" (at about 2 1/2 turns out now), and the latest test drive Wednesdy night was MUCH improved (lower end).

In short, I am changing too many things and need to slow down...

So, I am at mid-range on pilot tune and floats, AND my needle is still raised by the shim washer I explained on the prior page.

I HAVE NOT changed the mains from 114 to 116 and will not do that until I can get back out and do a few more mid-range chops, and another "top-end" test (to the best of my ability while being safe). My preliminary conclusion to adjust mains up to 116 may not be correct.

Please note, I am not dissatisfied with the bike's performance. In fact my earlier post is still how I feel... It is better than new with just terriffic and scary pull mid-to-top range... I don't have numbers, but it is taking my breath away with how quick it is mid to top end.

So, more chops mid-range, a few more "feel" tests (I want to ensure there is no surging when coming quickly off the throttle at top-end), etc... And a final decison on whether or not to try the 116's that are in the mail and may arrive today.

Stay tuned, I am dialing it in.

Thanks all

p.s. pilot is 42

 

What else can one do on a snowy day in PA -- no riding -- no tuning -- gives me time to finish up "the rear end" of the bike -- new shocks are on, new LIPO battery is in (LIPO battery weighs in at 2lbs)... The lead I removed tipped the scales near 10lbs)... finished grab bar... next: brakes and fuz box.

I'll post a pic of the rear later...

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p.s. between the lipo battery and the ebc rotor, (and taking out the security chain) I've taken over 10lbs off of the bike... NOW, if the rider could just shed 10lbs!!
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Folks,

The bike (cosmetically) is finished… Still have some tuning to do, but I believe it is minor tweaking, and I am sorting through it. I did some final assembly late last night (grab bar, tuning rear shocks, and other minor items).

Took her out today for some brisk-weather riding under a clear, blue, beautiful sky here in NE PA -- perfect for final "beauty shots"…

This site has been great; I could not have completed this project without ALL of the great resources and the knowledgeable, sharing people who hang here.

Thanks so much!!

Video if you wish:
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Maxim XJ650H, 1981 Final
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Those are 12.5" Progressive 430 rear shocks, but if you use the Part Finder on the Progressive site, they will lead you to 430-HD shocks for the 650 -- I don't know why... The HD are Heavy Duty and more expensive than non-HD shocks, so I looked around and found (at a good price) 4007s (430-4007B) with 70-120lb springs (the HD's are a heavier spring -- they are 90-130lb)... They are a great feel and IMHO perfect for this bike... I have them set mid-to-lighter end of their adjustment… For reference, I weigh 185
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Fantastic work. Absolutely splendid!

 

Great job, looks sweet.

 

Thank you... It's been a great project...

Frost said: "The fact is the sweetest dream that labor knows..."

 

Congrats, looks great!

 

I am liking the color more all the time, it looks great. A bit off topic, but does anyone know if the chrome air box covers from a 650 will fit on a 750 bike?

 

Im loving that grab bar!!! Looks like you matched the yellow pretty well. I wish I had known you were interested in doing that, I could have sent out whatever paint I had left and you may have been able to find a place that could have put the paint in an aerosol can.

 

Not just the grab bar. Notice the stripping on the rear brake/footpeg bracket as well. Great attention to detail on this build. Well worth the time.

 

Zach, I didn't know I was going to add that detail until I assembled it and stood back to consider the lines... I just didn't "see" it back in December.

You did an awesome, professional job... The dark flecked clear can not be appreciated in photos.

Thank you

p.s. the trim paint is VHT high temp paint - their yellow - I bet they matched "corvette yellow" purposely

p.p.s. plug wires don't exactly match but I'm not too concerned... That is actually heat shrink tube (for electrical wire)... So it will strip off in a minute should I want to go to black.

 

Coach
A totaly awesome job you did on that bike. It looks fantastic.

I do not by any means want to nit pick. Just a minor obersvation in pic 135. Look at the fork emblem compared to the rest of the bike. My eye is saying that the black background should be yellow to match the rest of the bike. Just like you did with the grab bar, foot pegs, and badges.

Also. The yellow plug wires are a definate improvement over the red, and make the color scheme more complete.
Ghost

 

That's a good observation. I can do that ... What about the "Yamaha" on the clutch and shift covers...? Or is that suddenly "over-the-top"

My wife suggested the rims - outer circles to be yellow but I resisted that thought it would no longer look vintage...

One more nit pick... I'd like to lower the rear end unsprung? Those are 12.5" shocks as specified and those are 430s but they are not the HDs they are the 4007s (430-4007B) with 70-120lb (the HD's are a heavier spring -- they are 90-130lb)... They are a great feel but how to "lower" I dunno... BTW, if you look around you can find great deals on these

 

How about some chrome trim for the edge of the tank? I don't like the look of bare edges on my tanks when I can at all help it.

So, once you have it all dialed in, you can ride it up for the carb clinic, right!?!?

Dave F

 

Sir David... You betcha... I'll be there for the clinic please keep me posted... RE: tank trim - please look closely to see I have the black tank trim installed all the way round under there ... I am sorry but I like the black I chose for that trim. RE: Dialed in -- it's there -- I've nailed the bottom end -- pulls like a mule now no hesitationan rips up through 6 and 7... small shims and right float levels did the trick (should never have changed float levels)... The shim may, in the end be unnecessary, they make a minor color difference on the mid-to-top chops... I will do one more experiment (I am an addicted tinkerer) -- I am going to pull the shims and try the 116's I've received as mains... 114's are in there now... I like the "idea" of running without a shim, and want to see what happens -- if it pulls better top end or if I've crossed THE line... I'll report on final tweaks.

Thank you

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Off topic,

But did anyone notice the date on the covered bridge on the prior page picture (I thought I might get a comment)? No? Civil war "era"! (1869) It spans about 150 feet of the Maiden Creek (Ontelaunee Trail) leading to Virginville, PA. Huge, hand-cut/hewn timbers from 1869 still at work (in it) making up the strcutural components... Yup, city slicker here...

 

Hey is that the "haunted" bridge in Gettysburg?

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dreibelbis_Station_Bridge

http://www.berkshistory.org/bridges/

Click on "The Dreibelbis Bridge"

 

Oh it's not. Doesn't have that house in the background. Looks very similar. We always go there at night so I guess I wouldn't really know whats around it.

 

Almost thought it was the one on the tulpahocken creek near blue marsh. But you cant cross that one. Didn't realize there was another near by.

 

Hello my local friend... there are many fuctioning covered bridges in Berks county... Don't know too much of the back roads out your way though...

Thanks

 

Hey Coach, Ok.......I couldn't see it in the other pics.

Talk to you soon......

Davef