1982 XJ550 Maxim rebuild

Got to hate it when those little gremlins move things in the shop. It will show up, has to be there right...?

 

Especially as expensive as those head gaskets are!

 

Found it!





Why??? One freakin valve cover hole has no sign of any threads. Good thing I have the Time-Sert master kit still around.




Resized the hole and counter-sunk it for the insert.



An M6x1.0 steel insert and some red Loctite. Permanent repair in less than 10 mins.



Stripped the tank today. Barely any rust.

 

Re: head studs. I would think that it would be more economical, and perhaps a better practice, to use the plain studs and powdercoat them. I've been thinking about that since at some point the studs on my engine will need to be replaced (likely when I have the original cases repaired).

 

Have them melonited, cheaper and will not flake off. It will also strenghten the threads.

 

The reason I was thinking about powdercoating is that I can do it at home on small parts. Well, if I ever get a spare oven to do it in.

Which brings up the thought.....I can already rust-blue things at home....hmm....

 

Hot blue it, don't buff it and you have traditional black phosphate that bolts get. Cold blue is shallow and will likely rust from repeat condensation. A friend of mine has an old oven in his shop just for powder coating his parts. Snag one from the scrap yard/craigslist that has a good door for cheap. If you have a good place to electro-dust the parts you could do parts for people on here. I thought about it but I have no time to devote to it right now.

 

I'm not talking about cold bluing with the rub-on stuff. Traditional rust bluing is quite durable, and has better rust resistance than hot bluing if done correctly. The downside is that it can take several weeks to get rust blue to a deep finish.
The studs shouldn't contact the sides of the holes for the bluing to wear anyway.

I don't currently have roomin the garage for an oven, but an upcoming move may remedy that.

 

The donor front rim looks amazing. Going to clean it with steel wool and clear coat it as-is. The bearings and seals are getting replaced. Then a new stem and tire.

 

Case front got some engine paint. Will do sides and rear next weekend.

 

Now youe going to have to paint the valve cover too. See what sprucing things up gets you? More work

 

I painted it already. seems the gloss is fading on it, might have to coat it again.

 

Maybe not. What I see as wear and chips might just be reflections from the light.

 

Yeah, some of it has chipped off already from banging it around. Not a durable finish apparently. I'll probably redo it later at this point. I just want it all back together so I can break it in and adjust the lifter shims. The case has rough corrosion surfaces in some areas but I'm not going to tear the case apart and sand every nook and cranny, it'll just get beat up on the road anyway there.

 

Front wheel is dry. Just installed new bearings and seals. Might put the tire on and balance tomorrow night.

 

Well, I don't give much chance of the front caliper of coming back to the world of functionality. The pads are horrible, the grease port is corroded and there was water in the fluid bay long enough to make rust soup.

 

I've brought worse back from the dead. Use a grease gun to pop the piston out. Likely all you'll need is a new piston and seals to set it all right.

 

Looks like the piston was pAinted into the caliper, a brass brush and some fogging oil, you can probly save it
May not need to even replace stuff, carefull with front brakes tho

 

The piston has been marred up at this point so I am in for a full rebuild or replace now. It will not budge at all. Going to torch the piston well tomorrow night and try to get it broke free.

 

If its that badmaybe save the trouble and find a good used one?