1982 XJ650 Maxim Build

I really like it. I plasti-dipped the emblems on my car cause they were gold on a red car, not a fan. and also the grill of my car was fading and I dipped it too, everything holding up great on the car. I plan on priming the tank on the XJ650 after I strip it and dipping it also. And probably dip the wheels and side covers to match the tank. Great thing about it is if I don't like it afterwards just peel it off and paint or whatever. Oh, I dipped the carb diaphram covers black also.

I ordered some metallic anthricite grey palsti-dip and glossifier and that's what I'm gonna do the tank, covers, and wheels in.

 

Well I got the kids to sleep a little early so I decided to get started on checking and adjusting valve clearances. Pulled the valve cover off and got side tracked cleaning it up and wet sanding the machined parts. Plus I have to pick up an impact driver tomorrow to get the point cover off to be able to turn the motor over by hand. I also pulled the plugs out and looked at them and spritzed a little fogging oil in the cylinders. Onl4 #4 plug looked off it looked like 4 was running a little lean.

IMG_1447 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1448 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1449 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

I'm gonna try and find some high temp touch up paint and fix the couple chips in the valve cover paint, there's only a few spots and it's really not in bad shape.

 

This might help.

VALVE COVER REFURB: Step-by-step with pics

 

Thanks

 

Got to checking my valve clearances tonight, didn't have time to check the shim values but I've found out all of my valve clearances are out of spec. My feeler gauge goes .01 to .1 then jumps to .15 in .05 increments after that so I can't be exact between .1 and .15, do they make gauges that have all the values between .1 and .2mm?

If I said .01 that one fit the .15 did not but on all of them the .1 was tight

Intake: #1 = 0.1 #2 = 0.1 #3 = 0.1 and #4 = .08
Exhaust: #1 = 0.09 #2 = 0.1 #3 = 0.1 and #4 = .09

Nevermind found one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HUOA2B0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A19KOWFDWL0LJE

 

Feeler gauges are stackable. You stack them to "make" the ones that are not in the set (e.g. 0.01 + 0.10 = 0.11). For our purposes this practice is more than accurate enough.

 

Duh, lol. I feel dumb now. Thanks

 

Feel smart. You learned

 

I'll try to get a more accurate measurement and pop the existing shims tomorrow after work.

 

I lied, I decided to go ahead and check the shim values tonight after the kids went to bed. Checked my .1mm gaps with a .07 and .04 for .11 and couldn't get them in so they really are .1mm

In #1 is 0.1mm and 290 shim
In #2 is 0.1mm and 290 shim
In #3 is 0.1mm and 290 shim
In #4 is 0.08mm and 285 shim

If I'm reading the chart Correctly I need to lower them all by one size 1-3 to 285 and 4 to 280

Ex #1 is 0.09mm and 280 shim
Ex #2 is 0.1mm and 275 shim
Ex #3 is 0.1mm and 280 shim
Ex #4 is 0.09mm and 280 shim

lower all 4 by 2 sizes to 270, 265, 270, 270


I can move the 285 from In#4 to In#1 and the 280 from Ex#1 to In#4 and I need to purchase 2 285 shims 3 270 shims and a 265 shim right? lol

 

You need to go to the next digit----

.1mm could mean anything from .10mm to .19m. Which, depending on what valve , could be within spec, or way out of spec

 

.1 means .10

I tried .11 and could not get them to fit

 

Oh,now I get it

 

So I pulled the intake manifolds off last night to check them for vacuum leaks and make sure they were ok to re-use. I found one that has a small crack around the vacuum port. I clamped the manifold in my hands and blew into the vacuum port and it didn't seem like there was a leak. Do you think this is ok to use or should I get a new one. The other 3 all look fine except for the gaskets so I will be ordering a new set of gaskets from chacal.

IMG_1460 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

 

That intake looks pretty good, I'd clean it up and coat with black RTV and move on.

 

Stretch a bicycle inner tube around the RTV ^^^ and winner, winner . . .

 

Look inside.... I doubt those go all the way through

 

No they don't seem to go through. I'll go ahead and put some RTV on the top as suggested and re-use.

Thanks

 

sorry. the sign on the door said Hangout Lounge

 

Yeah set myself up for that one

 

Progress was made today. Checked the wet float heights on my carbs they were all at 4mm so don't need to be adjusted.

Also went over to my buddies where the tank has been soaking in his electrolysis tank.

IMG_1462 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

This is what is looked like after pulling out and hitting with the air nozzle a bit.

IMG_1463 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

And then after the first round with the DA sander

IMG_1465 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

And after a couple more rounds of lower grit sanding

IMG_1467 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

Waiting on my new valve shims to come in and my manifold gaskets, then I will get to fire her up and see if she runs right. I did notice while working on the bike the other day that the right side muffler has a completely through rust hole on the bottom. Kinda by accident stuck my hand there and it went right through. Should I not even worry about wet tuning until I can get a new exhaust on it? I'm assuming I can running sync the carbs just not colortune the mix yet.

 

Go ahead and to the full tune. More practice is more better, and you'll be getting it pretty close to what it will end up at.

 

Ok, I believe I have everything I need on order for the tuning. Got a colortune plug, vacuum gauges, and a YICS tool on order, my shims arrive today and manifold gaskets soon so I'm hoping to fire it up later this week or this weekend.

Do I colortune or vacuum sync first? Also I asked before I think but didn't get any responses whats the starting point for the idle mix on the fine pitch screws? 2.5-3 turns out from soft bottom? Color tuning and vacuum sync are done at idle correct?

Oh and got the tank underside primed and painted and the topside primer today too.I'll hit this with some wet sanding tomorrow so it's all nice and smooth and then top coat.

IMG_1472 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

 

That will be fine.

Yes!

We recommend doing the synch first, to get everything settled and even.

Then, do a colortune on cylinder 1, re-synch the engine, then do the colortune of cylinder 2, re-synch the engine, etc. The idea being that adjustments to each individual cylinder will increase or decrease the power output of (at least) that cylinder..........and thus the need to re-synch. The purpose of synch is to adjust the power output of each cylinder to the lowest common denominator (i.e. the lowest power-output cylinder). Sad but true (and necessary)........

P.S. recommend a large cooling fan blowing across the front of the engine while doing the procedure, and, let the engine cool down for 5-10 minutes between each cylinder colortune/synch operation.

If you want to be super-anal, then repeat the entire colortune/synch procedure a 2nd time, it should purr like a contented kitten at that point.


Make sure your valve clearances are in spec before doing any of the above, or you'll just being doing it all again once they are.

Tank looks good.

 

Thanks, Chacal

Is the synch procedure started with the bike at normal operating temp? I'm assuming it needs to be warmed up and off choke for this.

 

Yes!

 

thanks again

 

Once you spends hours doing all that stuff, here's what an 82 650 Maxim sounds like:

 

I'm sure mine won't sound quite as nice with a giant hole in one of the mufflers but hopefully it will run well enough for me to say it's good enough to continue re-building it.

After it's running well I'm moving onto bearings, brakes, tires, electrical, and anything else that needs to me addressed so that it's road worthy. Then new exhaust and other cosmetics down the road.

 

Got my valve shims and manifold gaskets in today. Only got time to get the shims installed, clearances re-checked, and the valve cover reinstalled. So my new clearance numbers are:

In: #1 0.13mm, #2 0.15mm, #3 0.15mm, #4 0.14mm

Ex: #1 0.20mm, #2 0.18mm, #3 0.20mm, #4 0.19mm

 

You're ready to rock and roll............

 

Got the primer wet sanded and the tank dipped today, need to pick up the gloss top coat and do that tomorrow and it will be done.

IMG_1476 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

IMG_1475 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

 

Carbs re-installed into the bike and all the cables hooked back up. I tell you what I think the hardest part of the whole carb removal/cleaning/re-build/re-installation process is getting the damn airbox boots shoved back into the box for removal and back on for install

IMG_1477 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

Onto the next issue. I bought new plugs for the bike because why not they're cheap, right. So I saw on here and other places that the correct plugs are BP7ES. Well I took the old ones out and they are BPR7ES and the plug tops are different and my plug boots do not plug onto the new plugs. So which ones wrong the plug wires or the plugs?

IMG_1478 by Justin Schwab, on Flickr

 

So I just looked it up and the top part should screw off the spark plug. Never done that one before. Still question remains which plug is right?

 

The genuine plug is BP7ES.
Remove the plug top terminal and install it.

BPR 7 ES is a built-in resistor of 5 kΩ in BP 7 ES for noise reduction. You can use both.
The spark has high voltage and low current, even if there is resistance there is quite little influence on the strength of the spark.

 

the resistor plug may have been used if the plug caps are resistor and po went with non resistive caps



Pick-up coils:
1982-84 XJ650 Maxim: 650 ohms +/- 20% = 520 ohms to 780 ohms acceptable range
Ignition Coils:

Primary side (input from main wiring harness):
2.5 ohms +/- 10% = 2.25 ohms - 2.75 ohms acceptable range

Secondary side (spark plug wires, without their end caps):
11K ohms +/- 20% = 8,800 ohms - 13,200 ohms acceptable range


Spark plug caps:
5K +/- 20% = 4,000 to 6,000 ohms per cap acceptable range

Spark plugs:
0 ohms per plug

 

should be non resistor plug
ohm out your combined spark plug wires and caps if you get 20K go to non resistor plug. if combined you get 11k go with resistor plug



the top does screw off and save them if you need to replace the plug caps you will need them

 

While the resistance won't effect the strength of the spark, the extra resistance will effect the duration of the spark (spark duration is a tuning tool on these machines, in part because of how TCI functions). While the bike will run with incorrect resistance, it won't run quite as well as it should.

 

I measured the discharge waveform of register plug and non register plug with oscilloscope using stock coil, cable, TCI. As a result, I found that using a resistor plug reduces the duration and maximum voltage by about 10%.

But actually I was not able to feel the difference on ride.

I have put a register plug in GPz400F which is specified to use non register plug. At this time, clearly the condition of the engine went bad. I think that if the design of the ignition system of the stock is poor, it may be affected.

I think that it is best to follow it if it specifyied a non-register plug at genuine, but if you mention about XJ, I think that there is no particular problem even if register plug is inserted.

 

I'm not sure that this is true? Increased resistance should lower the peak voltage because it "spreads out" (or "slows down" the RATE of discharge) the available voltage over a longer duration of time, for example (disregard figures used, they are ridiculous and just to make it easy on the math):

non-resistive plug: total energy of 100kV discharged over 5 seconds = 20kV per second average
resistive plug: total energy of 100kV discharged over 10 seconds = 10kV per second average

Are you sure the duration was reduced? I can understand the total voltage reduction.



http://www.ultralightnews.com/enginetroublshooting/resistorcapsandplugs.htm

 

It is interesting data. Certainly in theory I might be wrong.

I looked for the measured data, but I could not find it. I'll measure it again and report the result.

 

Maybe a dumb question but how do you measure the plug wires? The end attached to coil doesn't seem to come off.

 

each coil has 2 spark plug wire measure from end to end .you can leave the plug caps on they unscrew .

 

So I measured the wires from end to end 1-4 and 2-3 on separate coils. I didn't get anything like what you said, I got 31.5K on 1-4 and 10M on 2-3 does this mean my coils are bad?

 

did that include the spark plug caps?
trim back the wires about a 3/8 of an inch on each end and retry

31.5k and 10M is bad coils. and by M you mean megohms ?

 

Yeah that was with the caps on and yes 10M is megaohms

 

the caps unscrew so take them off and remeasure, the resistors in the caps could have failed

so you will be looking for 11k on the coils and 5 k on the caps also test the primary side of the coils

way back when M was equal to K

 

Pulled the caps off and measured to coils directly from the wires.

Both coils secondary measure 11K
Also measured primary on both reads 2.5

Measured the plug caps and 2 and 3 both read 5K

1 cap reads 8.6K and 4 cap reads 11.8K

Put the caps back on 2-3 and measured 21K through everything, maybe corroded connection is why I got bogus before. Still my 1 and 4 caps need to be replaced correct?

Do we know the correct NGK part number for the resistor caps that fit #1 and #4 plugs?

 

yes sounds like wrong caps or resistors are failing our supporting vendor sells the correct after market nkg caps .
he also sells reolacment resistors for the oem caps but you are better off buying the nkg unless you are going for factory restoretion

www.xj4ever.com or this link
XJ4Ever - Supporting Vendor look under electrical

or just start a conversation with member chacal he is xj4ever

to many choices for me to give you a part number