Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Bix, Jul 11, 2019.
Since I'm waiting on parts to arrive now for re assembly I figured the next step was to check valve shims. Realizing my set of feeler gauges wasn't accurate enough ( jumped from .10-.13 and from .15-.18.) and without a feeler gauge for every size I don't feel comfortable confirming any numbers, but I did go ahead and give checking them a "test run". Since I have never done this before. Seems alot scarier than it is. Also have to replace two of these rubber seals on the inner screws.
I added photo of what position I put the came lobe in just to be sure, because some of the numbers are way out of spec. I'm going to check them all again and compare results once I get a new set of feeler gauges.
I did have a small amount of blackish oil stuck to the magnet when I drained the oil. I know any amount of that is place for caution but how much should I be worried? I forgot to snap a pic before I wiped it off on my finger tips to feel it.
When I turned the motor over with the wrench, it acted totally normal and smooth
P.s is some surface rust on the sides of the cam shaft normal over time in a humid rainforest like environment, like mine haha?
Also got the insides and outsides of these nice and clean. Ran q tips in them until they came out clean.
You're on a roll! Valve position looks fine. Fuel pipes look great. It's not uncommon for valve clearances to be really small ("tight") if they haven't been done in quite some time (i.e. the previous owners ignored checking/adjusting them), as valve clearances DECREASE over time. Tight valves, especially exhaust valves, are a Very Bad Thing (it's much easier to burn an exhaust valve). Since the previous owner(s) neglected this basic task, they probably neglected everything else, too, so go over the bike with a fine-tooth comb (inspect/adjust steering head bearings, swingarm bearings, wheel bearings, , inspect all brakes, probably needs master cylinder and calipers rebuilt, change engine oil, fork oil, and final drive fluid).
Yea it definitely shows that neglect was had for sure with clearances that low. Poor bike couldnt exhale..!
Brake pads on the front are newish, fluid inside the master cylinder was crystal clear when I got it and still is.., someone had installed the stainless lines on it so I'm assuming that was all done at once. I picked up some EBC rear pads for it so that'll get done, got 10w fork oil with oil seals and dust seals.
I definitely do need to check wheel bearings, head tube bearings, final drive fluid flush ect.
Good thing she's off the road for awhile. The master list can get done while she sits in hibernation.
As for the .13 intake valves. Should you set the limits at the biggest gap, so you have the most time before having to do them again or should they be right in the middle of the tolerance?
As long as the valve clearance are anywhere within the specified range, you're okay; and besides, shims are only available in 0.05mm size increments (actually, older model BMW's also used the same size shim and they came in odd size increments, but they are only available used, and are hard to find and can be expensive...…..). Spec is spec, so for your intakes, you're going to have (after replacing shim #1), you'll have 0.15 - 0.13 - 0.13 - 0.13mm for the 4 intakes.....this is fine. In an ideal world, you'd want all of them the same (anywhere within the specified range), but in reality, it's not worth the effort and will not produce any useful or meaningful positive results.
I wouldn't feel too bad about it - some neglect yes but there have been quite a few members that have found valves with no clearance. I think sometimes PO's are afraid of the valve adjustment and worried that they will screw something up - especially if they had not joined xjbikes for the encouragement and advice to make the bike safe and reliable. Those stainless steel front lines are a real bonus and at least something positive as far as TLC for the bike.
you will have no choice as it is determined by the shim size.
your intake .10 will be set to .15
exhaust .15 will be .20 exhaust .09 and.07 will become .19 and .17
metal filings on drain plug is normal unless you find a lot every time you change oil better on plug than in motor
A lot is kind of subjective, maybe this would help. Do you consider this a lot or about normal? I'm not sure there is a right answer but it never hurts to ask.
okay awesome, i know some other threads ive read people have had very low readings also.. just couldn't remember if there was anything else you could do, besides change the shim. Yea the SS lines were a big motivator to buying this bike. Some things were shotty and unknown, but there was some good parts on it atleast, like the SS lines, newer tires and what not. I paid about 1000 bucks for it, took a gamble, and seems to be what i paid for so far haha.
Thank you for bringing this up, Im also interested if thats a little, or a lot. I had about that much on mine as well.
also interested in knowing what is normally wearing and causing this, or is it multiple parts that make contact just slowly wearing down over time.. USUALLY, that is?
drain plug would be from transmission gears, chains (internal) and the gears they connect to
shim clearances change as the valve beats itself into the valve seats
Bigfitz's AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT with Pics - parts I & II
In-spec is in-spec. No micromanaging required.
GO ahead and dip the carb bodies while you're wating on parts (follow the reccomendations on the can). Spray cleaner never gets them as clean as a good dip will.
if you've never had the oil pan off and cleaned it out, there's no way to know if the iron on the magnet is new or was just hanging around in the back of the pan
that picture looks fine to me
Is this something I should do while I have the time to inspect? I know in cars / trucks you don't take the oil pans off for shits n giggles but since this one is so small and accessible might as well?
Or does the motor have to be removed from the frame to do so
I picked up some gunk brand hydro seal parts cleaner, and I'll soak them as per your advice!
i think it could be done in the frame, i don't think it would be easy. it's not that hard to pull the motor but it is a heavy s o b
It's a slippery slope, if you pull the motor you may as well go ahead and take care of the primary chain guide and rebuild the starter clutch. And, speaking of the chain guide, I guess I can imagine / speculate that some of the metal filings might be coming from the chain grinding away at the oil nozzle - I really prefer not to think about that.