1. Hello Guest. You have limited privileges and you can't "SEARCH" the forums. Please "Log In" or "Sign Up" for additional functionality. Click HERE to proceed.

bleeding brakes,clutch switch,etc

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by cruiserlover, May 3, 2018.

  1. cruiserlover

    cruiserlover Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    231
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    denton texas
    the 82 650 maxim that was going to be my rider has now become my parts bike.I have spent 700 on parts and havent even assembled it yet.I bought a running rideable fairly good looking 81 yesterday.What that bike needed my 82 has.The kid had an ugly carved down seat.I put my real seat on.His headlight was missing,plus no pigtail to connect one.I had that.I will install my mufflers since he has none and I hate the noise plus its hard on the engine.

    There was no front brake action.He had stripped out the screws on the mc cover.I drilled and pried and finally got the cover off.it was empty.I took my mc off and installed it.Same exact mc.But since all the lines were removed and it was probably already full of air now its really full of air.Plus with the mc mounted on the handlebars it sits at a weird angle.Making it impossible to get the mc to sit level and keep the fluid level or even measureable.I dont know why it was designed that way.I do have the word UP pointing up. I will have to find my mighty vac.I never used it but looks like now I will. I am way impatient.I think the vac will get the air out quicker.I started the bike once, then turned it off.I decided to just push the bike a few feet and try the brake.no stopping at all.So more bleeding tomorrow.Twice now I started the bike,actually probably 3 or 4.Runs great,idling in neutral.Once i put it in gear it dies.The clutch switch i traced inside the headlight shell.Its wires terminate in a green connector.I was wondering if I simply unplugged the connector if that would take the clutch switch out of the equation.Or the sidestand switch.I havent figured out which connector it is yet.same question- disconnect the connector and it wont interfere? I realize the bike could be started in gear and lurch forward with these switches bypassed.After dying about 5 times yesterday finally the bike did move forward which is a mistake with no brakes.If the safety switches were the problem why would it have ever moved forward.

    Last question the brake switch from the brake lever side of the brake master cylinder was plugged into a connector on the 82, now transplanted to the 81 lever and all.It has a blue with yellow stripe and a brown, both with bullet connectors.There is no female bullet inside the headlight to plug the blue yellow into,and there are at least 2 brown female places to plug the brown one into.I dont know if it matters which brown I plug into.I have no place for the blue yellow. Is this switch to activate the brake light? For sure it needs to work if so.Plus I dont need another safety switch interfering.I am so happy to have a running bike.All I need is brakes.All input appreciated. one last thing, the clutch switch has the blue yellow switch and connects to a green connector.On the 82 the brake switch had the blue yellow and green connector.confusing.
     
  2. cruiserlover

    cruiserlover Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    231
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    denton texas
    no responses.hmm.the ignorant looking dragbars the kid mounted is why the master cylinder wouldnt level.There was not a long enough straight section to mount it to.Now to find my mightyvac.
     
  3. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    975
    Likes Received:
    283
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    North, FL
    If you truly have a 1981 it will not have a side stand switch, it was added in 1982 on the 650.

    The clutch switch is active when the contacts close (clutch pulled in) allowing the starter to engage while in gear.

    Once again, if you truly have a 1981 it does not contain the ignition cutoff safety circuit (no B/W wire to the TCI). Is the bike lurching forward when you put it in gear as if the clutch is not disengaging?

    I don't own a 650, but the diagrams show a Brown and a Green/Yellow for the front brake switch. So yes, you will need to find that corresponding G/Y connector for the front brake switch to activate the brake light.
     
  4. cruiserlover

    cruiserlover Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    231
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    denton texas
    thanks a bunch.Glad to know there is no sidestand switch.Yes it is an 81. I have looked and the green yellow wire is inside the green connector that comes from the clutch.Its on the brake side on the 82. I cant figure out why some people do what they do.the kid had rerouted the clutch cable across the handlebars, down the right side of the bike, then down to the clutch.It left no slack whatsoever.What happens is like a clutch switch problem.the bike starts, runs great.When I put it in gear it dies.
     
  5. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    975
    Likes Received:
    283
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    North, FL
    Well that can't be an electrical issue as stated above. If it is a 1981 there is not an ignition cutoff as part of the safety circuit.

    So is it?

    Did you visually verify this? It would not be the first time the stated year and actual bike did not match.
     
  6. cruiserlover

    cruiserlover Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    231
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    denton texas
    no.just going by the title.I will look for the plates on the frame. I know now if its the clutch switch it isnt anymore necessarily. I disconnected the connector inside the headlight bucket.I have a new problem now.The kid had put some dragstyle handlebars.I hated them for a lot of reasons.I put the buckhorns on from the 82.I actually dont mind them now that they are on.But now getting the clutch cable and throttle cable adjusted is driving me nuts. Until I get that right nothing else can be checked out. the throttle side has no recoil, its just loose, no wind up and release by twisting.the cable comes through the sleeve, the barrel goes in the hole, the cable fits into the slot.The white throttle sleeve where the cable is attached is pressed down into the groove.both halves screwed on.Still the grip just turns around at will,no spring or tautness.I have had it apart many times.The cables would have to stretch much further to reach these handlebars than the dragbars so i expected everything to be too tight.If that portion is correct then down by the carbs is the only adjustment left.On the clutch side the guy had the cable stretching across from left to right, very taut.I rerouted it properly, under the tank down the left side and over to the clutch cable attachment.I never unhooked it from the external attachment down on the clutch.I did rotate the hex adjuster a few times, turned the adjustment screw on the handlebars, there isnt enough slack so more adjusting needed. Until I get these cables right there isnt a way to see if its a safety switch or not.I have reinstalled cables many times successfully.But I never followed someone else who had changed from stock so much. The throttle sleeve was working just fine on the 82.It still should.
     
  7. cruiserlover

    cruiserlover Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    231
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    denton texas
    rooster, the bike does not lurch forward as in the clutch is not releasing.It just dies as soon as i push down the shifter from neutral to first. No lurching.
     
  8. Cragybar

    Cragybar New Member

    Messages:
    11
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    3
    Location:
    Mullingar ireland
    Sorry to interrupt on my 81 uk spec there was a clutch switch and a side stand switch may be worth a quick look. I know this cos on a very bumpy road one day the bloody thing started popping an missing..... Found that the side stand spring had gone weak and was allowing it to bounce.... as for your brakes I hate bleeding xj brakes. Used to free flow them untill clear then cable tie them on over night may sound silly but by the next morning they are perfect 2 pumps of the lever and away you go.
     
    cruiserlover likes this.
  9. cruiserlover

    cruiserlover Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    231
    Likes Received:
    19
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    denton texas
    I got the stock bars mounted.pia.
     
  10. PJC750

    PJC750 Member

    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Northeast
    I have an 81 XJ750 (USA, According to my title) and yes it does does have a side stand switch. Mine craps out as soon as I put it in first. I adjusted the clutch cable so I "think" I am fully engaging the lever(pulled against the handlebar).
    I have tried giving it more gas..but I think I should be able to ease into gear no? Thanks for the help.
     
  11. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Burbon. Moderator Premium Member

    Messages:
    14,461
    Likes Received:
    4,215
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    The Great American Desert
    Correct. The 750 came with a sidestand switch from the beginning of production.
    The switch on the clutch lever only prevents you from starting the bike while in gear without the clutch pulled in. It won't kill the engine once it's running. You may need to undo that clutch cable adjustment if you find that there is slipage, or excessive clunking when shifting into first.

    Clean and lubricate the side stand switch. It's probably stuck.
    If that doesn't to it, then remove the sidestand relay (temporarily). It's located under the left side cover, just below the voltage regulator.

    It would also be helpful if you put the year, model, and submodel (Maxim or Seca) in your signature. That makes it easier to know exactly what bike you're asking questions about.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2018 at 9:33 PM
  12. PJC750

    PJC750 Member

    Messages:
    31
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Northeast
    Will fix signature.
    Clutch is 1 down(1st) and 3 up correct?
    I adjusted the clutch cable nuts to remove some slack I perceived, thinking the clutch actuating arm wasn't coming up "high enough" when I pulled the lever. Pulling on the clutch lever should begin pulling the arm up right away,no?(I may need to replace the spring down there too.)
    Will there still be a 'clunk', when I kick it down(into 1st), if the hand lever is pulled in??

    I am looking for electrical diagram for 81 xj750, I see the minimum posted but not that nice color one I have seen floating around.
     
  13. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Burbon. Moderator Premium Member

    Messages:
    14,461
    Likes Received:
    4,215
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    The Great American Desert
    The transmission is 1 down, 4 up.
    There should be no slack in the clutch throwout arm (on the clutch case cover), but about 2mm of slack at the lever.
    The spring on that arm only needs to be replaced if it is broken in two pieces.
    There is a clunk that's inherent in the transmission design, but adjusting the cable properly minimizes that.
    Clutch cable adjust
    Nobody has made a colorful electrical diagram for the Seca 750 that I know of. The one in the FSM or the Haynes is fine, you just have to get used to reading it (welcome to the 80's). I find that photocopies and highliters make working through a circuit a bit easier.

    Please take the time to start a thread for your machine if you have not already done so, and keep all of your questions (related to getting your bike roadworthy) in that thread. That will make it much easier for us to keep track of what needs done, and what has been done, so we don't have you repeating work unnecessarily.
     

Share This Page