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Brainstorming things that affect fuel consumption

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by tabaka45, Oct 23, 2012.

  1. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Good luck!
     
  2. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    Tabaka45,

    If what I suggest works you owe me a years worth of Miller beer. I prefer Genuine Draft but Lite will be just fine. Reason being...why are you fighting with something you KNOW better than? Experienced riders, like yourself, know that if your valves keep leaking, they'll probably keep leaking until you...REPLACE THE VALVES! Okay, I'm done...you can cuss me now :D. Seriously tho, I read in one of the threads the "orientation" of the valve on the tang, especially on some of the Aftermarket Kits, may cause the the valve to twist in such the way it will not seat properly as the floats rise (I don't know why). Whichever valve continues to "leak" you may want to try spinning that valve 180 degrees (on the tang)and see if it stops. Hope this helps.

    Gary
     
  3. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    I don't know about a "years worth", you might be a heavy drinker. I admit to being a little hard headed about trying the valves again, but my Mom always said that I was. In any case, it's too late now. They are back on the bike, sync'ed and colortuned--about 2 turns out now. Over the last three days there have been no leaks with a free flowing fuel source. Just for the heck of it I did a clear tube test on each carb with the bike running and all levels were good. The next thing is a test ride of about 40 miles with a chop test of the plugs somewhere during the ride. If there is still a problem, then I get all new valves and needles.
     
  4. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    I posted the following under the subject "float valve assemblies- metal vs rubber tip", but wanted to post it here also since many of you have followed my progression. I'm interested in your comments.


    I ordered float valve assemblies from Chacal and inadvertently ordered the metal tip needles when I meant to order the OEM style rubber tip needles. I think I am going to return them and get the rubber tipped needles. However, I might be convinced to keep the metal tipped ones if anyone has any real good experience with them. My concern is that they will not seal as well as the rubber tipped ones will.

    I really would like to have some comments and opinions on this. I'm tired of removing the carbs.
     
  5. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    New, ... they're equal.

    They'll both do the job.

    But, ... I like the Spring-loaded Viton-tipped,, too.
     
  6. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    The holidays are over and it seems that I'm back at square 1. I installed new metal float seats and needles, rechecked the float levels, and I'm still getting about 30 mpg. About 1/2 in town and 1/2 on the road. It's really frustrating because the bike runs so well. I'm obviously missing something. BigFitz, RickCoMatic, Chacal, et. al., if you were in my position, where would you start?

    the PO, or someone, had been into the carbs when I bought it, because the pilot screw caps were gone. Although the jets have the stock numbers, I'm wondering if perhaps they were slightly drilled. I assume that could decrease the mpg, but 30 is just too low in any case. Although I have not broken the rack, everything in the carbs except the floats and jets are new.
     
  7. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    That's definitely low. I get 33 on my Venture and am pulling my hair out trying to figure out why it's so poor. My fuel levels are spot on, compression at new spec, valve lash is done, brand new computerized ignition system, brakes not dragging, plugs have nice color etc. etc. etc. Runs beautifully.

    Interestingly the mileage fell off when I replaced the badly leaking slide diaphragms.

    About the only thing left for me is possibly the needle jets/jet needles are worn (90K miles) and may be allowing a tad too much fuel. That's on my project list for this winter. If that doesn't do the trick I'm going to replace the main jets on the chance that some PO may have reamed them oversize.
     
  8. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    Tabaka, you have been agonizing over this subject for almost a year now. If your bike is running good to excellent stop worrying about it and consider yourself blessed your bike runs great.
    You have gone over everything and the bike still runs great. Have you thought that just maybe the quality of the fuel in your area is just crap like it is everywhere else? The gas you buy today is a far cry from what we used to get even three years ago. You may be dealing with something that is beyond your control, unless of course you can refine gasoline to the specs from back in 1985.
    I have had to completely change how I deal with small engines and storage. The gas goes bad in a matter of a few months. It never ever used to be like that 20 years ago. I have to drain my carbs on my bikes because the fuel evaporates and the jets turn green and the float bowls gunk up. That never happened 20 years ago either. I'm just saying the gas is garbage and I think that's where your problem lies.

    MN
     
  9. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    It might just be an intangible.
    The Fuel.
    Not as powerful diluted with ethanol and additives to reduce carbon emissions.

    Seems like you've looked under every rock on the beach.
     
  10. MercuryMan

    MercuryMan Active Member

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    True E10 gas is total crap-adding it to our fuel is a joke. It increases NOx emissions, raises exhaust temperature, drops power by 10-30%, and fuel economy by 5-15%--It does reduce carbon emissions but they aren't as bad as the NOx. It also serves to drive up the price of corn worldwide which happens to be a major food source for poor people-GREAT F'ing Idea!!

    Your mpg at 30 for mixed riding is just about 25% less than you should be getting so E10 or crappy gas could be half that missing economy. Try this-top off your tank with ethanol free gas, use the web to find it-there is a search tool which will find a station near you that sells straight gas. Do so with your tank almost empty or put in some E10 remedy. Then go ride for 30-40 miles straight highway or freeway around 60-70mph. Stop fill up and check again-let's see what that tells you.

    Can't remember if we looked under this rock, but you're sure you don't have a slow leak anywhere right? and your gas cap is closing well yes? And you don't have anyone in your house who is an unrepentant practical joker?
     
  11. KrS14

    KrS14 Active Member

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    Have we entertained the idea that your odometer might be off? That would screw with your numbers big time. Just a thought :)
     
  12. tabaka45

    tabaka45 Well-Known Member

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    Haven't checked it with a gps, but I did with the highway mile markers and it appears to be right on. If the weather is good tomorrow, I'm going the risk a 70 mile trip and I'll check it again.
     

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