Clutch Adjustment & Clutch Cable Replacement Procedure

You need the whole throw-out on these XJ Clutches. It is not unusual for the adjustment to be complicated by the improper replacement of the Clutch Throw-out Arm, after any work, which might have made removing it convenient or necessary.

If you are not getting enough Clutch throw-out; it might be necessary to reposition the Throw-out Lever a notch or two Counterclockwise on the splines of the Clutch Throw-out ROD.

Remove the Throw-out Lever from the splined end of the Throw-out ROD. Turn the ROD Clockwise until its motion stops upon contact at the clutch.
Maintain contact at the Clutch by holding the ROD fully Clockwise and reposition the Throw-out LEVER back on the spines to where it's new position removes cable slack.

Make the necessary adjustments to all the lower components and adjustment features until you get ZERO Lash at rest ... and complete movement of the ROD Clockwise when the Clutch Lever is pulled.

 

Clutch Adjustment & Clutch Cable Replacement made simple.
Special to: XJBikes.com
Copyright: November 23, 2006
All Rights Reserved.

By: Rick Massey

Here's my submission to our up-coming Tech Section. There's nothing worse than grinding a pound of gears trying to get the bike into first gear, fighting with the gear change pedal to get into Neutral, having the bike do the "Red Light Creep" and missing a shift. This article will cure those symptoms for you.

Eventually, you'll need to replace the Clutch Cable; too. I have done my best to provide a step-by-step procedure that even the most inexperienced Member should be able to understand and follow when the time comes to swap-out a Clutch Cable.

Following Repair Manual format; here's everything you need to know ... to replace the whole Clutch Cable or simply Adjust your bike's Clutch for smooth riding or Track Day!

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Cable Replacement:
Note the way that the old cable is routed, from the Clutch Lever Perch, around the front, along the frame, through guides, over or under parts, down along the frame, to the mounting point on the Engine Case, below the Carb's, at the rear of the Clutch Case.

(Make notes, a drawing, or stick tape with arrows pointing the way, if you can't remember how it needs to go.)

Down at the Engine Case:
Bend the tab on the Clutch Throw-Out Lever Mount to allow the Lead "Bullet" Cable End, to be removed and release the cable from the Throw-Out Lever's attachment point.

I use a big Crescent Wrench. Push DOWN on the wrench lifting the Throw-Out Lever and maneuver the Cable End Bullet out of its holding bracket. Pad the jaws of the wrench (or any tool you use) with paper towels.

After detaching the Bullet, relax the wrench pressure allowing the Throw-Out Lever to retract. Clean and lube the pivot point of the cable attachment bracket.

At the Cable's End:
Remove the hard rubber Dust Seal. Un-screw it and slide it to the end of the cable along with the nuts and washers collected as the Cable is removed.

With fresh brake fluid or Armoral, lube the Dust Seal for withdrawing the rubber dust seal off the end of the cable, over the Bullet.

Loosen and remove the Lower Hex Locking Nut and Washer (if present).

Push the threaded Adjusting Barrel through the top of the Mount if the Adjusting Barrel does not come loose from the bracket. The barrel might slide right out from the Mount. Other's may need to be withdrawn. Either way; undo the Adjusting Barrel from the Mounting Bracket.

At the Clutch Lever Perch:
Remove the Hex nut on the end of the Clutch Lever Pivot Pin.
Remove the Pivot Pin bolt.
Slide-out the Clutch Lever from the Perch.

Remove the Cable End and Bullet > (or any remains of a broken cable) < from the Clutch Lever.
Line-up the Cable with Slot on the Lever allowing for the removal of the Cable End from the Clutch Lever. Slide the Bullet UP and out of the "Bullet Hole" on the Lever.

Clean-out the channeling and the Pivot Port for the lead Bullet. Put a dab of Waterproof Grease in the "Bullet Hole" and set the Lever aside.

Clean the Knurl Cable End Adjuster and its Locking Ring.
Add NeverSeize to the Knurl's threads.
Place a dab of NeverSeize in the threaded hole for the Knurl on the Perch.
Place the Knurl, with its Locking Ring all the way on, into the Perch's threaded opening.

Spread the NeverSeize along the Perch's inside threads by running The Knurl > IN, to the end and back OUT; several times. Add additional NeverSeize, if needed, to insure the Knurl Adjuster moves freely, without binding. "Exercise" this vital Clutch adjustment mechanism until it is able to move with precision. The Smooth and precise adjustment of this feature is absolutely necessary to properly and precisely adjust the Clutch.

Make sure the Locking Ring is on tight, at the end.
Bottom the Knurl into the Perch, against the Lock Ring.
Turn Knurl OUT 3-1/2 Turns. (Exercise the Knurl IN and OUT, in this particular area, until it adjusts velvety smooth, with no binding or resistance.)

The Cable:
Out with old and in with the new. Follow your notes or taped-on arrows.
Thread the end which attaches to the Clutch Perch > up through the bike < Starting at the Case Mount and ending at the Clutch Lever Perch.

At the Clutch Perch:
Thread the Cable through the > lined-up slots < of the Perch, Knurl and Locking Collar.
Put the lead barrel "Bullet" into the Clutch Lever "Bullet Hole" and mount the Clutch Lever, the Clutch Lever Pivot Pin and tighten Hex nut.

Make a "Final adjustment check" on the Knurl and Locking Collar. Run the Knurl OUT 3-1/2 turns -- positioning the slot > Inboard < to prevent the Cable from escaping during the remainder of the replacement and adjusting.

Critical Proceedure:
Use the Knurl's "Thumb Wheel" Locking Collar and LOCK the KNURL tightly in place, 3-1/2 Turns OUT. Place the Cable Sheath's End-Fitting FIRMLY into it's seat at the open end on the Knurl.
SECURE the sheath against escaping from the Knurl's seat with a strip of Vinyl electrical tape until all Cable and Clutch adjusting is complete.

Down at the Case:
(Mod's for Performance and Precision Adjustment of Clutch include some additional hardware items.)
Place a Hex nut, a Stainless Steel washer and a Nylon washer on to the Threaded Clutch Cable Adjustment end. (Nut, Stainless washer, Nylon washer.)
Slide ... or slip-in from the top ... the Threaded Adjustment End into the Clutch Cable Holding and adjustment mounting bracket. Secure the bottom of the Threaded Adjuster with additional hardware items:
Place a Nylon washer on first.
Place a Stainless Steel washer on next.
Place the Hex nut on the Adjuster; third. (Substitute NyLoc Hex nut for stock nut.)
Rubber Dust Shield; last.

Critical Procedure:
While holding the Threaded Adjustment End tight into the mounting bracket; tighten the Lower Hex nut, with sufficient force, until BOTH Nylon washers "Crush" and mould themselves to, and around, the top and bottom edges of the holding bracket.

[Use standard, thin, stainless washers. Use Nylon washers that are "Soft", about as thick as a Nickel or slightly thicker. The Nylon washers are > supposed to < get Crushed and become non-slip fasteners ... holding the Threaded Barrel of the Clutch Cable, firmly, in the same place, while final installation and adjustments are carried out. Also, to allow fast and accurate adjustments of the upper and lower hex nuts should future cable adjustments be necessary.]

With the Threaded Adjuster tightened in place; place the Lead Bullet End of the Cable into the Cable Attachment Pivot at the end of the Throw-out arm. Push the arm UP, as before, using a proper tool, and capture the Bullet in the pivot attachment devise. Don't fold-over the tab until ALL the Clutch Adjusting is complete.

Release tension on the Throw-out Lever.
Inspect and insure that the Bullet end is firmly seated in its holding slot.
Now, check the Throw-out lever for Cable Slack and Throw-out Lever End Play.
Remove all Slack and End Play.

If the Cable is slack and the Throw-out lever has loose End Play ... LOOSEN the LOWER Hex nut on the Threaded Cable End Adjuster and TIGHTEN the UPPER Hex nut > Holding the Barrel from rotating by holding the Fixed Hex Flats atop the barrel, just above the locking Hex nut on the Threaded Adjuster ... until ALL the SLACK in the CABLE is REMOVED and Throw-out Lever End Play is reduced to Zero Lash.

ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH:
Continue adjusting the Threaded Adjustment End of the Clutch Cable until you remove ALL the Slack in the Cable and the Throw-out Lever is > "On the edge" of ZERO LASH. NO End Play." Use finger pressure on the exposed cable to "Feel" the adjusting process.
You need to adjust the Throw-out arm to ZERO Lash. Such that adjusting the Hex nuts on the Cable's Threaded Adjustment by only one or two flats will provide just a hint of LASH. Adjust the Cable at the Lower Cable Mounting Bracket for ZERO Lash at the Throw-out Lever.
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** [ You need the whole throw-out on these XJ Clutches. It is not unusual for the adjustment to be complicated by the improper replacement of the Clutch Throw-out Arm, after any work, which might have made removing it convenient or necessary. If you are not getting enough Clutch throw-out; it might be necessary to reposition the Throw-out LEVER a notch or two Counterclockwise on the splines of the Clutch Throw-out ROD.

Remove the Throw-out Lever from the splined end of the Throw-out ROD. Turn the ROD Clockwise until its motion stops upon contact at the clutch.
Maintain contact at the Clutch by holding the ROD fully Clockwise and reposition the Throw-out LEVER back on the spines to where it's new position removes cable slack.

Make the necessary adjustments to all the lower components and adjustment features until you get ZERO Lash at rest ... and complete movement of the ROD Clockwise when the Clutch Lever is pulled.] **

The Clutch is preliminarily adjusted. Although, it very well might be Precisely adjusted.

Test ride and observe for the ease of shifting, finding Neutral, and NOT bucking or jumping into gear.

Further fine-tuning of the Clutch Adjustment is done by adjusting the Knurl, on the Clutch Perch, IN or OUT as needed.

The ability to tweak the adjustment of your Clutch using the Knurl ... allows you maintain Perfect Adjustment at all times.
This feature also allows you to make immediate adjustments if heat becomes a factor in the Adjustment.

When the fine-tuning and adjusting is done ... LOCK the adjustment with the Knurl Locking Ring. Lock it up TIGHT. Most clutch problems are a result of the Knurl vibrating and loosing it's position.

Good job adjusting that Clutch.
Like a new bike ... ain't it???

 

If that's not the definition of "step by step", then I don't know what is.

Good job and thanks! I'm sure I'll use that info in the future

 

You'll have to excuse my lack of knowledge, but I've been working on my xj650 and my clutch is all over the place. I read your step by step, but I'm still a little confused. It seems as though the throw out lever has too much travel to be taken up by the clutch lever. how far should the throw out lever be able to move? Thanks!

 

What you need to do is take up the "play" in the throwout mechanism before installing the lever. (You may need to remove the c-clip and move the lever "back" a spline or two.) The rotating shaft that sticks up is "geared" to the throwout piece, they call it a 'pushrod' but it actually pulls. Be sure the shaft is rotated fully clockwise (looking down from above) before you install the lever. Right now your lever is just taking up the play in the mechanism and not pulling the clutch open. Actual "throw" once the lever is actually pulling against something is about 1/2" at least on a 550. (I just went out and measured on both my bikes.) And Floogle: +1 on "forgetting that whole selling thing."

 

I adjusted it this afternoon and failed again. I took all the free play out of the shaft, and now it doesn't have enough travel to engage the clutch fully. does this mean it's a problem with the clutch itself? I read an article on adjusting the clutch pack on a harley. Can I adjust the clutch pack on my bike?

 

"and now it doesn't have enough travel to engage the clutch fully" If you mean DISENGAGE, then like I said, you may need to move the lever "back" a spline or two so it has more range of pull. If it truly won't engage, then you need more play in the mechanism. The clutch pack itself is not adjustable, the screws simply tighten down against their stops.

 

Today I did what Rickomatic advised at the top of this thread, that is; moving the lever back 2 notches on the spline at the engine case, now the gear changes are so smooth and quick, maybe better than its ever been. Thanks for that tRick.
Try it you`ll like it.

 

Hi Rick,

Followed your instructions on clutch cable replacement on this post and sure enough, once all connections and adjustments were made the feel at the lever was really smooth.

The old cable was still OK but after pulling it in and then easing it out it had started to feel a little notchy. That is, as you relaeased it it didn't have a smooth progression. More like it was being released in small slightly stuck steps. Which made clutch engagement at low revs a somewhat tricky affair where in one of thoses steps it would just grab, not because of the clutch plates but because the release wasn't smooth.

Like a new bike ain't it?

You bet.

Thanks. Hope all is well Rick.

 

I have zero play in mine now but ever since i've got my bike its crazy hard to pull the clutch in like i'm going to get carple tunnel from using my clutch i think. I tryed spraying WD-40 in the clutch cable and moving it back and forth to get it worked in and spraying the lever on the clutch itself but its still hard as hell to pull.
Should I try putting new clutch springs in or something?

 

WD-40 is the wrong stuff, and will make the cable worse.
You should completely lube the cable (properly), or just replace it.

 

K well the cable moves freely but the level thats on the clutch case that the cable connects to is impossible to move. so? what do i have to do?

 

You have to POSITION the the Throw Out Lever on the Throw Out Rod to be in an optimum position for moving easily when the Cable is pulled.

Remove the Throw-Out Lever from the top of the Rod that extends down into the Case.

Remove ALL the SLACK in the ROD.
(Turn the Rod Clockwise until it make contact with the Pinion that releases the Pressure Plate. I use a Shoe Lace and wrap it around the Top of the Rod.
Then, I wind it a few times around the Rod and "Pull it" ... causing the Rod to Rotate Clockwize. Once the Slack is out from the Rod ... Tie or Tape the Shoe Lase to KEEP the ROD tight against the Pressure Plate.)

With the Skack removed from the ROD ... Position the Throw-Out Arm on the top of the Rod ... very close to where the Cable Attachment fits to the Clutch Cable.

Once you have the Slack removed and the Lever in Position... Adjusting the CABLE Slack will make the Hand Lever easy to operate.

 

The 550 clutch should be relatively "light" pull-wise. When you say "impossible" to move, are you talking about moving it with your fingers? You won't be able to. (Not enough "mechanical advantage.")

But it should pull smoothly with the cable attached and adjusted correctly.

If not, you may have a problem with the throwout shaft or "pull rod." You might want to go ahead and pop the cover off, and have a peek. (Be sure to order yourself up a new gasket first, you WILL destroy the original upon removal.)



The gear teeth on the bottom of the throwout shaft (at the top of the diagram) engage with teeth cut into one side of the "pull rod."

Cracked or broken teeth on the shaft, a bent shaft, a crack or excessive wear in the housing where it supports the shaft, debris in the teeth, or a failed pull rod bearing can all cause stiff clutch action. The throwout mechanism is all in the cover (except the pull rod, plate washer and bearing) you should be able to figure out what the problem is once you look in there.

Oh, and TIME is right; WD40 is evil. WD=water displacement; it wasn't supposed to be a do-all lubricant. It will gum up over a relatively short time, and you do NOT want to discover the hard way (like a stuck throttle cable) that it wasn't a good choice. (I learned the hard way.)

 

Thank you fitz!
I'll be checking it next weekend when i'm back home.

 

I removed the cover to replace clean out oil level window (Which is still foggy) Now I cannot get the cable back into the throw arm (this is the right jargon correct?) I oiled it up (with motor oil) pushed and pulled but nothing. It won't budge. It was a pain just getting the cover back on, it finally jived with the rod on the inside, but not it wont budge. Where to go from here?

On the oil level window note. I have 2.6 quarts in, just as recommended, and I was watching the window as i put in the final .6 quarts. I still have not seen a bubble, or any indication that it is filling up. Any suggestions to fix this problem?

[/img]


p.s. This might be a nice picture if someone wants to label it for the tech section. Since i am going through this and will probably have to take the cover off a again I will be happy to take picts of the innards and email them to a member wanting to diagram it.

 

Can you move the Shaft that goes down inside the Case?

Whenn you replace the Cover,... you need to capture the "Push-rod" (Which is really a "Pull" Rod") and ease the Cover on while turning the Shaft ... to take-out the slack while the Cover is buttoned-up.

Then, when you get ready to attach the Cable ...
You have to Rotate the Shaft Clockwise. Hold it.
Set the Throwout Arm upon the Splines.
Fasten it.
Lever the Throwout Arm clockwise to affix the Cable end.
Make the final adjustment.

If anything that's supposed to move, ... isn't moving.

Start from Square One.

 

great Rick. In my collection of bikes I've joined other forums and almost non of them are as good as this one. The members' dedication is what makes it and yes folks, you know it, this is the text book example.

so remember my thread 2 weeks ago about my clutch being hard to pull, approximately 60lbs pressure!? I found the problem today.

it was the cable, a Brand New Cable, but it was the cable. the cable had no resistance At All when disconnected so when it gets connected and the resistance comes back it leads someone to look eslewhere. But today, with a bud, we routed the cable the most simplest way possible without the tank on and gave it a tug and it was better. I couldn't beleive it. so I put my finger on it and pushed it agains the frame as if the tank was on and Bam it was tight. WD40 fixed it but I'm still going to buy a high quality new one immediately. So now the cable is coming down the right side of the bike, UNDER the tank, not on the inside tunnel of it. Good luck everyone

 

You'd have been better-off using 3-In-1 Oil or a Capfull of the Oil you buy for the Bike.

WD-40 is closer to a Cleaner than it is a Lubricant.

 

Hey guys, I need some clarification on this. Finally got the stripped bolts of the clutch casing(?) and was able to get the cable back onto its perch, but it looks nothing like the drawing. Is there a difference with this on the 400s than the bigger bikes?

Ok, that pic does make it official, there is a difference on mine.

Can someone quickly tell me how to adjust the clutch play on my set up or point me in the right direction?

 

Agreed, and I actually said I wanted to use Motor Oil :lol: but how the hell do I get it in there?! I used a Cable Luber Tool that accepted the straw of the aresol can

 

You undo the Cable from the Lever.
Elevate as high as possible.
Pass Cable end through neck of small funnel.
Duct Tape the Funnel Nect to the Cable ... Oil tight.
Keep the Cable and Funnel elevated.
Fill the Funnel with enough Oil to submerge the Cable end.
Let Gravity go to work.

As the Oil seeps into the Cable it find its way to the other end.
Where you need to put paper towels.
A bunch.
Until you drain the Funnel and stop the flow.

It can get messy but its very effective.

 

Started from square . Still couldn't move the lever...by hand. Reread this thread and saw something about my hand not having the mechanical advantage. I knew the rods were locked in right because i heard them click in, I could also move the throw out arm when I replaced the cover with the arm 180 degrees opposite of where it should be.
I Used a pair of vice grips to spin the throw out arm and got the cable back in its nook. Clutch feels more or less the way it used to, just a smidge tighter. Will do fine tuning in the morning.

 

Don't forget you can remove the c-clip from the clutch attachment and move it over a couple of splines until the tention is close enough to adjust from the clutch handle.

 

And I was thinking to myself today 'man do I need to adjust my clutch!'...lo and behold here is this discussion. Thanks Rick!

I had to basically let out the handle all the way before the clutch would catch, now it works just like it should.

 

If the bike is on the sidestand you won't see any oil.

Put it on the centerstand (or hold it vertical for 5 minutes if you don't have a centerstand) then check.

 

If ... :
You clunk shifting from Neutral into first.
Have the Bike "Pulling" on you when the Lever is pulled, ... the famous "Red Light Creep".
Have to fight with the Bike to get it into Neutral.
Can't get into Neutral to move the Bike.

Take 45-Minutes and do a Complete Clutch adjustment.

You will be happy you did.

 

Perhaps an obvious question, but if the clutch is adjusted properly but starts slipping around 6500+, is it time for a new clutch?

 

When you know the Clutch ISN'T Tight. And, it starts slipping "Under Load" ... You have probably used-up all the fun that that Clutch had to deliver.

Don't let it slip.

Don't "Burn-up" the Steel Driven Plates.
You might be able to replace just the FRICTION Plates.

But, if you Scorch or Blue-burn the DRIVERS you can't leave them in there. You'll have a Clutch that GRABS or doesn't take-up smoothly because the DRIVERS are Burned, Warped or worse.

Be honest with the job.
Replace any blued DRIVEN Plates when you replace all the FRICTION Plates and all the Fun and Performance will return.

 

New clutch cable and adjust per Rick's guide done this past weekend. Can't believe I didn't do it sooner. Easy as pie.

 

Thanks Rick, it started slipping under heavy load on the way back from a little cruise a couple weeks ago and I have been busy so I looked into the adjustment again and rode it once and still slipped under heavy load. I really don't think I burned anything up if it is I will replace it though.

 

Got the new clutch in and took it out for some dialing in... got it feeling pretty good so I thought I would test it out, holy man I brought the front wheel off the ground taking off, not real high but still, WOW a new clutch is sweet

 

So this is my 2nd time screwing w/ the clutch. I just put in all new plates and am now toying with cable. I can not get it to not clunk. There is no slack in the rod. I have tried placing the throw arm in multiple locations, finally found one where i can get the full range of motion and it still clunks. I used a small pair of vice grips to confirm that this rod will not go any farther. I have tightened up the cable to where it might even be to tight...clunk. gave it slack...clunk. Went back to the step by step a few times...clunk...?

 

I answered your other thread.

What "clunk" are you referring to? When dropping into first from neutral?

It WILL clunk dropping into first from neutral, even warmed up. COLD it will clunk rather vigorously; once warmed up it is a lot less violent but it will still clunk. It's the nature of the beast; probably a bit more so on the 550s because of the chain-driven primary.

 

Hey thanks, saw your other post. Actually thought i deleted this one, i ran into something else you wrote on another thread and it answered my question. It clunks from neutral to first when i first start out...never when riding. I guess that's just how it goes, although it still makes me cringe a bit.

Other gears are fine, little click into 2nd (down and up). Judging by your other post, i need to give my self a bit more free play. Thanks for all the help navigating me through my clutch process.

 

I just followed this step by step today and I'm not 100% sure if I did everything correctly. I replaced my cable with a brand new one, lubed it up, routed it the same way, taped it into the knurl and adjusted at the bottom. I got the cable down to the point where there is absolutely zero play in the lever, however the clutch lever feels VERY light and the 'recoil' isn't as strong in the lever. When I pull the clutch lever in and let go, it takes a bit for it to go back out. Anyone have an idea as to where I could have gone wrong here?

 

Post a pic of where you have the THROW-OUT ARM attached to the Splines on the ACTIVATING ROD.

You need to Rotate the Activating Rod Clockwise removing all the Free Play out from it before attaching the Throw-Out Arm.

You want the ANGLE of the THROW OUT ARM to be back enough so the Cable MOVES the ARM as far as possible whenn the Lever is pulled.

You want the Lever adjusted so that when you begin to Squeeze the Pressure Plate begins to move.

Rotate the Rod extending into the Clutch Case until the Free Play is gone.
Hole it in that position with a Shoe lace wound around the shaft and pulled like starting a small engine.

Hold the Rod tight.
Put-on the Arm angled toward the back of the bike.
Get enough angle so that the Arm moves through the whole PULL of the Cable.

 

That's the part I missed. I pulled the throw out lever off the splined shaft, turned it and put it back on and then pulled the lever. The first half of the pull felt the same, then it started to actually grab the clutch. From there, I just adjusted it and got it to where it felt like there was zero lash. It's at the point where I can't even touch the lever without starting to engage the clutch, which is probably too tight, but I can fine tune that later on. Big thanks for the write-up and the help!

 

Once you get it right, ... keep it tight.

If your Clutch is adjusted to have Zero Lash:

First Gear "Clunk" is greatly reduced.
Neutral Fight is eliminated.
Red Light Creep, ... Gone!

Use the Perch Adjustment Knurl to Fine-tune it to be Tight without causing Slip.
That's where you want to be.

 

Absolutely zero lash can have the clutch starting to release when you turn the handlebars; and will quickly burn up the pull-rod bearing.

You need 1mm-3mm play at the lever (factory spec,) which isn't much; but it keeps there from being a constant load on the throwout mechanism.

 

Since my issue seems to be a clutch issue, I moved to this thread. So, now when I pull the clutch in and put it in gear, the bike starts to roll with the clutch lever still pulled and when I release it, the bike dies, like the clutch isn't engaging/releasing.......feels like I'm close and maybe it's an adjustment thing. So I adjusted from the handlebar side, very little lash and now it goes in gear but has the red light creep still in first, very hard to shift up into second and wouldn't shift up into third. Could I have the clutch working backwards, so that when pulled it thinks it's in gear and when out things it's in neutral? Or is it just not disengaging fully? Sorry, but I can't wrap my minds around the mechanics here..

 

Here's the "mechanics:"

The pressure plate is pressed against the "stack" of plates by the five (or six) springs, which makes it so the plain and friction plates "lock together" and the clutch engages. When you pull on the lever, it lifts the pressure plate away from the pack just enough that the plates can slip in relation to each other, thus releasing the drive between the engine and transmission.

If your clutch is dragging, which it is, either A: It's not adjusted properly (and I covered the 550's throwout lever positioning in detail in the how-to) or if it IS properly adjusted, then B: something's not right in how you reassembled it, so that it's not releasing properly.

First off, look closely at the throwout lever positioning pic. The end of the lever should be pointed at the "rear" of the little rectangular 'pip' cast into the housing, when the lever is pressed fully forward as shown. if not, reposition the lever.

Maybe we need to go back over the assembly and see what might be amiss. What exactly did you replace?

Did you soak your new friction plates in oil before installing?

Did you get the "clutch boss spring" in the center of its special friction plate?

Is that 'assemblage' in the third position "in?"

How MANY plates were installed?

 

Throwout lever is aligned with the mark on the housing, I replaced the friction plates after soaking them overnight. There were 7 plates total I believe because that last one went to the 6 o'clock position like in your how-to. The boss spring is in the correct place, however, I didn't see a special friction plate or metal plate. Your write up said it had a different OD, is that overall diameter? Is it a friction plate or a metal plate that is special. I'm feeling strongly that there may lie my problem. If it's a friction plate that is special, I didn't see one that looked different in the ones that came out. I had a new set of plates to install, and a used set from an 8k 550 that I could have used. Neither set had any friction plates that were different looking. I'll take it apart and be looking at it all again. Can you tell me anything more descriptive about the special plate and does the boss spring fit against it somehow?

 

I stand corrected, I looked over the original friction plate set that came out and there is one plate that is different, it appears to have smaller or shorter tabs and a smaller ring diameter than the other plates (was looking for larger OD, is there a difference in the Maxim and Seca plate sets?). Could this be it? It's also the 3rd one in the stack, not sure if it was coming or going. Checking new stack to see if there is one like that in there. We'll get to the bottom of this yet, lol.

Ok, the new set had a ring like that also, it even had little notches at the top and bottom so you could tell the difference, I"m such a moron, lol. Putting it back together now, let's see if that makes a difference!

update: Victory! It turned out to be the order of the plates, and my "special" friction plate ended up being smaller SD diameter and had little notches on the 12 and 6 oclock tabs. Once buttoned all back up and clutch adjusted, rides like a dream! Thanks Rick and BigFitz and everyone for your invaluable information!

p.s. and it did that "pop" again on reassembly. Sounded like a friggin new jar of jelly getting opened, scared this sh*t out of me, lol. Some of my plain plates were slightly warped, I figure between that and the springs compressing, it was just pushing the whole stack down and popped when seated, who knows.


Mac

 

OK, so you didn't carefully read and follow the how-to as meticulously as you thought.

The "special" friction plate has a larger ID (and therefore a "narrower" friction area) to accomodate the clutch boss spring (wave washer.) I'm glad you got that figured out.

However, you missed an important point: Those warped plain plates needed to be replaced. If you KNOW that you have some warped plain plates, order up a new set and get them changed out. No sense beating up on the other new components by running them.

Are you tightening the bolts up in a criss-cross pattern, a little bit at a time? If not, that could be the reason for the "pop."

 

Will get the new plates ordered...your logic is sound, lol. I did indeed tighten the bolts up in a criss-cross pattern, perhaps with too many revolutions per bolt, we'll see what happens when the new plates come in. Thanks for your help!

 

You need to be using a torque wrench lest you snap something expensive: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-2530- ... -3459.aspx

 

what would cause a chatter every time the clutch is engaged?

 

Drive Discs that are Scored or Burned badly.

Friction Discs that are badly in need of replacement.

 

I just replaced my clutch discs because when trying to shift from nutural it would grind then clunk into gear and the engine would stall. New clutch springs and discs installed.. Same exact problem.

Even when I use a wrench to turn the lever until it won't go further clockwise and hold it there while shifting, it still grinds then clunks into gear stalling the engine. If I had more hair I would be pulling it out. Its a 83 XJ750 Maxim. I replaced the clutch springs, alligned the dots, torqued the bolts properly in the diagonal sequence, took care when installing the cover...
I can't figure out what Im missing. I am using a wrench to test it completely ruling out clutch lever adjustment problems.

When I put t in 1st gear, engine off, and activate the clutch, I can spin the rear wheel with my hand but can definately feel resistance. The more I spin it the easier it gets... CRAP this is killing me. Im going to take a break. If anyone has ideas please post them before I drain the new oil and take the cover back off.

Thanks.