Engine Re-assembly

Well the old 650 is going back together slowly and surely. Used Locktite 515 to join the cases and I have a few questions for the Knowledgeable Ones.

1. Will that stuff every actually cure? It has been three weeks and it's still tacky/gooey.
2. Is the best way to pre-lube the engine (other than oiling everything well during assembly) to crank it over without plugs? It will be three months from assembly to fire-up.
3. Is there a need to re-torque the bolts after assembly? Seems to me the answer is "no", given that the bolts are Locktited.
4. Once I add oil, do I need to fill the middle gear area separately?

Advice for anyone else needing to do complete dis-assembly: you will need the Yamaha service manual, a Haynes manual and this forum. None of the three have complete information, but combined, it's all there. Other than Torx sockets and a torque wrench, most of the tools required you already likely have.

It's a lot easier than you think. Even with only 3/4 dis-assembly (didn't pull head or rotating power parts) there is an unreal number of parts and bolts. Once the complexity of all these parts wears off, you will be fine as it's not as bad as your brain makes it out to be. Make cardboard templates for the bolts so you will know where they all go. A standard one-hole punch is perfect for bolt holes.

And again, I need to thank XJ Forever - great service and advice, fast shipping. All the kudos seen in the other threads are all true - this is the place to go for XJ parts. Question is, will he ever run out?

 

On Parts that go together without a Gasket but needing a Sealant applied ... I use Permatex Form-a-Gasket or Indian Head Gasket Shellac.

On Bearing Surfaces that will rotate before Oil Pressure comes up, ... I coat the Bearing Half Shells and Journals with some Synthetic Grease.
Likewise faor the Cam Bearings and Raw Aluminum Surfaces the Cams will spin on before the Pressure comes up.

I put Marvel Mystery Oil in a small, lathe-type, Machinists Oil Can and apply a few drops of lube-oil to the threads and Nuts that will be torqued-down to hold the Cylinder Head.

Before you get ready to actually START the Engine ...
Without Spark Plugs ... turn-over the Engine on the Starter Motor for 3 or 4 -- 15-second runs.

This will allow the Oil Pump to push some Oil into the voids and fill the galleries and the Middle Gear cacity with Oil beforoe the Engine is actually Started.

After you have run the Engine up to temperature and it cools; it is a good practice "Torque-check" the Cylinder Head Nuts again.
My wrench lets me add 3 Foot Pounds which I add to the Cylinder Head Nuts the second time around.

 

http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93791_515EN.pdf
Says it "cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces" unquote. What ever is oozing out isn't in the absence of air is it? I'm with Rick, I use the Permatex Grey, works like a charm.

Use a good quality assembly grease containing molybdenum (Sta-Lubed makes a good product). The grease will remain in place for years if you don't fire it up right away and will wash away as oil pressure builds and displaces it. It will not harm the engine in any way and will protect the metal surfaces for those precious few minutes until full pressure is built up.

Once you have used Loctite, you should be good to go. Note: do NOT use Loctite on head bolts/nuts, they will require a retorque.

No, it is part of the sump on the 650/750s. I don't know about the 550/1100s.

 

The service manual says to fill the oil filter with oil (.3 of a liter IIRC) in order to prime the oil pump on a freshly reassembled engine.