Gas smell in oil

Yes l think so.

 

I can't seem to see anything for a nut to hold on to when I look down the tube. It appears to be round or am I missing something?

So everything is apart, but I can't get the old seal out. Any tips?

 

If you can apply some heat from a heat gun you might be able to lever it out with a screwdriver. If you can get under the seal you could try a slide hammer if you have one.

 

Or a tool like this, I did mine with a screwdriver.




Seal Pull I think it is called.

 

I tried some PB blaster for awhile, but then went to a little heat and out it came. 39 years of sitting in there cemented it in.

 

Now to clean all that black crud out of there.

 

If you don't have a seal driver you can use a piece of plastic pipe or a socket to fit the new seal into the slider. I have used a tube off a paint roller in the past.

 

I have some extra PVC I was going to use. I'll sand down the edges so they won't damage the seal.

 

Parts came, thanks to Len!!! Putting everything back together, but ran out of energy. Game 4 of the playoffs is on. See if Montreal can hold this lead. Back at it tomorrow.

 

When you have the carbs out and are replacing the needle n seats, after you install the floats you can have the upside down where the weight of the float is holding the needles closed. Put a (clean) piece of long hose on the fuel inlet tube and use your mouth to lightly blow air into it simulating light pressure, while you feel around the seats for air leaks. Lifting the floats and letting them drop back into position, you should hear and feel the pressure drop and build back up. Do this several times for each one to confirm there is no seeping before you finish buttoning them up. Always confirm a repair before moving on,

Ohh, and I about s@#t myself reading you took sandpaper to the needles and float pins. on the needles- weather rubber or metal tipped, sand paper has granules that cut into the surfaces leaving striations, and will never smooth the whole flat surface which is needed to seal properly. I'm afraid you may have some damaged new needles. Only apply a rubber safe fuel dissolvable lube on the tips for assembly. for your float pins use some "0000" ultra fine steel wool.

"Sandpaper he said"...... this guy, lmao. Not poking fun, just caught off guard by it.

 

Maybe something to consider, happened to me yesterday while setting the fuel levels. When you bent the tang of the floats to set the level, the floats themselves on both sides tend to bent a little too (hope you understand what I mean...) If this happens one side can be higher than the other side. I think this causes less or an uneven pressure on the float pin causing it to leak. So make sure there on a nice flat level to each other.

 

I didn't use sandpaper on the needles and seats, rather the pins and where the pin goes through to make sure nothing is binding ( they have been sitting since 1994 ).

 

Checked both sides when setting float levels. I'm pretty sure Len's parts will do the trick. Doing the fork seals first then the carbs. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

Front end is done, now for the carbs!

 

Floats are set with no leaks!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you Len for the best parts and advice around!!!!!

 

And thank you everyone who helped on this! Had her running. Synced 3&4 then 1&2 then 2&3, color tuned. Still a bit rough.

 

Still can't get the color tune to be blue. All are yellow to orange. Which way do I turn the pilot screw to make them leaner?

 

IN is leaner.

 

On holidays and time to get this bike running properly. Synced 3&4, 1&3, 2&3. Color tuned, but I have the screws almost all the way in and still no blue. Not sure what to do now. It's running terrible.

 

Just set them all at 2-1/2 turns and check the sync again.

 

I'll give it a try

 

I have a Colortune also and my experience is not successful either.
Starting at 2-1/2 and tweaking 1/4 turn each way until it responds nicely has been my method. I haven’t given up yet with the Colortune, just need a rainy day with nothing to do.

 

Set them back to 2 1/2 turns out. Synced again. I did 3&4 not much change. Did 1&2 started to race, so I turned back the idle screw so it idled at 2000. Did 2&3 and it raced again but also surged and bogged down the surged again. I did the propane torch to see if there were vacuum leaks and no change. When I flip the throttle it takes forever to come back down.

 

Sound like it may be pulling fuel from main circuit.. Are the slides hanging?... and their bore silky smooth?

 

I'm pretty sure they are good and clean. I don't think they are hanging. I'll check again tomorrow. I'm almost tempted to pull everything apart one more time, but I really don't want to.

 

Well you said propane test passed, so its either pulling main circuit fuel, or carb pulling internal air leak past main circuit...etc

Start and idle it, throttle slightly so diaphragms activate, and visuall watch the slides, they should drop fairly quick once throttle flys close.

 

I think I should pull them off one more time and hit them again with some 1000 and WD 40

 

No!... Polish the bore's with #0000 steel wool. Not grit paper. the paper removes material, where as wool will polish. also make sure the main needle jet in bowl is pulling and seating the washer and emulsion tubes tight.

A seep in this area can cause even idle level vacuum to suck fuel.

And note the 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 turns is an estimated starting point, you can even start at 1 3/4 to 2 turns, just keep mental note of each carb adjusters position. And your end position may not all be exactly the same on each, but should aim for them to be.

Me (personally) I turn them in tighter (less) increments than 1/4 or 1/2 turns.
I treat them like the seconds marks on the clock not the minutes marks as most seem to do.

 

Steel wool and WD 40 or just by itself?

 

Make sure its #0000 steel wool, and use mothers, or any other aluminum polish.. Use finger to apply verry little to surface (light coating) all the way around bore, and then polish with wool. then clean rag to wipe clean each time. Repeat as necessary

Make sure whatever amount of polish used does not get into any ports etc...
Also keep carb bodies upside down while using the wool, as the fibers will break down, and could clog into carb holes etc...

Slides may not be your issue, but can eliminate it as a possible cause afterwards. Helping you narrow down the actual issue.

 

Not sure what you mean when you say " also make sure the main needle jet in bowl is pulling and seating the washer and emulsion tubes tight."

 

I'm coming into this thread late... Not sure of your bike and carb model, but in the bottom of the carb base inside the bowl. You have your two brass jets.

The center largest one is for main circuit fuel delivery and is controlled by the needle on your slides, you know the long needle on the end of them when u had them out?

Throttle controls the carb fly's, metering the amount of vacuum the engine is producing, thorough the carb venturi. when throttle is. closed and up to to 1/3rd of the way open the controlled vacuum is fairly low and carb uses (idle) jet for fuel and is limited by your top air adjusting screws for the idle jet and air mixture (ones u been adjusting).

As you keep rolling on the throttle vacuum level increases, the (main) jet circuit takes over, the diaphragms in top actuates and pulls that center needle away from the hole in main brass jet, into the exit of the carb (part that you mount into the rubber intake boots) while mixing with the air passing thorough the carb opening and into cylinder.

The part the needle feeds into when closing (letting off throttle) is brass and removable and called (emulsion tube)..... when the main jet in bowl area is removed. The main jet will have a brass washer with it. The jet, when tightened pulls the the emulsion tube towards it sealing top side of It, and washer seals the tube at the bottom, as main jet sits submerged in the fuel in bowl.

(now to my point..lol). If the tube is not sealed after main jet being tightened the engine vacuum can suck fuel straight out of the bowl.
Imagine you put a straw in a soda can and suck...... Same principal if emulsion tube is not sealed.

 

My bike is a 1982 xj650 Maxim that had been sitting since 1994. Original Hitachi carbs. This is my last piece to complete. Did the gas tank, the brakes, fork seals, and many other little things over the last two years. So frustrating, because I just wanna ride! Lol. I get at it tomorrow.

 

Ok, I have no hands on experience with the Hitachi carb rack, but the general theory and operation I described will still apply if they have (CV) rubber diaphragms on top side.

 

I'm sure the top hats have no cracks or rips and are fine, but I'll check them again also.

 

Took the carbs out again. There was gas in the boots that hold them in place. Took the steel wool to them and they do slide much better. Changed the oil again. A bite to eat and try running it again.

 

Had one more quick check. Do I have the pilot and main Jets reversed?

 

FYI - Those are the air jets you're looking at there. The fuel jets are located inside the float bowl.

 

I used the wrong term, but if they are backwards would that cause more vacuum to draw gas to the cylinders?

 

? hard to tell, those are the air jets and their backwards

 

Just to make things interesting, note that there is a mistake in the Haynes manual for these.

As noted at http://xj4ever.com/catalog/c-hitachi.html
NOTE: the Haynes workshop manual for the XJ650 and XJ750 models has the incorrect placement noted for these air jets----the main air jet and pilot air jets are reversed in their picture and caption.

 

I understand they are air Jets, but having them backwards would that lead to more vacuum and draw too much gas?

 

it might but the main thing is it causes the bike to not run
is there a reason you ask?
don't over think this just fix it

 

It's still drawing excess gas to the cylinders. The bike runs, but really rough. If I hit the throttle when syncing, it takes forever for it to come down and sometimes holds at 3000 or more.

 

those jets might be your whole problem, with some long screwdrivers you should be able to fix it without pulling the rack
those are really clean carbs, i'm jealous

 

Wow!!! Thanks for the compliment!!! The only thing I didn't do was boil then. I already had the rack off, so making the change wasn't that hard. Now to put them back in, hopefully for the last time. Thanks for your help!!!

 

@Polock is correct, those in the top only control the "Air" not fuel. fuel control "jets" will be located in carb base in the bowl.

If your external adjusting screws are located down low on the carb body, then they adjust "Pilot" Fuel.

If the external screw is up high on the carb base then it will adjust "Pilot" Air

ones in top side are for "Pilot" air
and enrichment circuit.
fuel in the diaphram area indicate too much airflo into this area sucking in fuel with it.
(wrong jets in wron holes)

 

That was the problem. Changed the plugs as well and it fired up right away. Guess it was pulling too much gas and that's why I couldn't color tune. Synced, color tuned and running fine!!!! Thank you to everyone who helped me out!!!

 

Trying to upload a video of my bike running, but the file size is too large. Does anyone know what the maximum size is?

 

Can you upload it to YouTube and put a link here?