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Lost power

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Plumper, Jul 24, 2019.

  1. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    With the system closed or in normal operation mode, can you get pressure? Made sure the little holes in the bottom of the MC are clear and clean of gummed up stuff or old caked on bake fluid. My old go to method is vacuum on bottom nipple with a wrench on the nipple. Pump MC handle and hold it to the bar. Release the pressure with the wrench and the bleed nipple and see if there is fluid coming out going to the vacuum tube. There should be some movement. This will not happen very well if the MC is not clean to work as designed.
     
  2. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Please clarify which model of XJ you have. There are variations that require some special care for bleeding the brakes thoroughly.
     
  3. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Yamaha actually stopped fitting those shields during the production run.
     
  4. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  5. Plumper

    Plumper Member

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    I've got a 82 maxim 750, when the system is closed it will gain a little bit of pressure but not much, and I did make sure the holes were clear at the bottom of the mc, I used a guitar string to clear the tiny one
     
  6. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    the seca info will work for you.
    edited for maxim

    3. Break loose 2 bleed fittings (be sure to put down cat litter or drip pans).

    4. Tie the brake lever to the grip.

    5. Fill the master cylinder

    6. Wait overnight (or at least a few hours)

    7. You should now see brake fluid coming out. Close the bleeders, and untie the brake lever.

    8. Bleed the brakes as normal, keep filling MC

    9. You aren't done yet. There will still be some air in the system. The next step cures that, no matter what method you use to fill and bleed the system.

    10. Use a vibratory sander (no sanding pad) and slowly run it along the brake lines, calipers, and distribution block from bottom to top. This will move any remaining air bubbles up into the master cylinder. Tap (or vibrate) the master cylinder to get the air bubbles to come out of the return hole. This process can also be done with a box-end wrench or other similar tool, and tapping the calipers and lines (it just takes longer).

    11. Do one final bleed normally, just to be certain that the calipers are fully bled.
     
  7. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    my maxim was a little spongy/soft on the test ride. when I kept the lever pulled at the light but slightly released the rest of the air i missed came out. 2 sets of lights and it was perfect. I guess the motor vibration and pulled lever took out the rest of the air.
     
  8. Plumper

    Plumper Member

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    Thanx I'll try that tonight, that sanders a good idea
     
  9. Plumper

    Plumper Member

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    So when all bleed, where should the brake fluid level be at? Between the lower line and top of glass? Want to avoid this hydro lock you speak of
     

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  10. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    There are two lines cast into the master cylinder. A fill is to the top line. Between the lines is fine, but generally you want it at the top so you can easily notice pad wear, or if there is a leak.
    If your master cylnder does not have an upper line, just leave a bubble showing at the top of the glass.
     
  11. Plumper

    Plumper Member

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    Ok thanx, I opened my brake and bleeders like in the directions and my mc drained in about 5 mins so I closed the bleeder and I'm sanding my lines now and pumping the brake so hopefully I'm close
     
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  12. Plumper

    Plumper Member

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    Well I think I got it, go for a test run tomorrow after work, they still feel loose but this is my first bike so I don't really have anything to compare it to and I'm pretty sure they weren't working properly before cause I just unclogged that tiny hole, before I drained it the brake lever was super tight but my calipers were also sticking and not opening fully, maybe this is how there suppose to feel and I've been screwing with it for nothing, when the lever is pulled as far as I can get it it's about 1/4" away from the handle bar there is some pressure there but pulls back fairly easy
     
  13. Plumper

    Plumper Member

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    Test run went pretty well, bikes running good now just in time for winter, now it's time to get started on my goldwing
     
  14. Plumper

    Plumper Member

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    So I'd like to get rid of the original gauge cluster, 82 maxim 750, I'm looking at this it says it takes a 12mm cable, so is this a fairly simple process, when I take my old gauges off if I just open them up and see what wires go where and match them up to new unit is that it? Also to find a new tach I know mine is electronic right now, what should I look for in a new one, is there a certain gear ratio or number or anything
     

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  15. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    raskal likes this.
  16. Plumper

    Plumper Member

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    Cool thanx
     
  17. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    the tach will have settings for cylinder count
     
  18. Plumper

    Plumper Member

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    O ok so if I get a tach that's a 4 cylinder one and electrical I should be fine then eh? Just connect the wires
     
  19. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    yes it will have a way to set it for 4 cylinder yamahas, it may be that it is set to 2 cylinder . our bikes have a wasted spark ignition so it fires 2 times in the 4 strokes.
    some work by wraping around spark plug wire some hook to coil
     
  20. Plumper

    Plumper Member

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    Ok thanx
     

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