Me and my New XJ750 Maxim and I mean NEW!!!

17k on the clock, as for the parking, you cant park on the side of the road because otherwise all the boat trailers would park there and no one would be able to get to the landing. They don't care about me, lol

 

I had a discussion with a friend. We are wonder how the turn signal cancels on the XJ750? If I go around a corner and not give it a lot of gas coming out, it doesn't work. When I give it a lot of gas, it goes out. I can't imagine it works off the RPM.
How does it know when to cancel?

Chris.

 

The self canceling is based on a criteria of time and distance. When both are met they turn off.

 

What do I do if sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't?
Chris.

 

That canceller is a finicky son of a gun. In my attempts to get it working I've found that the bulbs, sockets, and wiring have to be in good shape. Mine work most the time, if the battery is healthy, and the sockets have no corrosion, if, etc. I replaced the canceller with another one from junkyard, made it worse, so there's a chance they go bad. Oh, make sure the magnetic reed switch behind the speedo works. That's how it measures distance. If I knew the exact discrete components in the canceller I'd just make one.

 

When the Valves last adjusted: 7/3/2012, did you take it in or do it yourself?

Chris.

 

X2.

It has nothing to do with acceleration

 

On mine? I did it myself, I've never taken a bike in to a shop for anything but tires. It's not that hard, I had some clearance issues, and a little issue getting the valve to stay down so I could get the shims out, but just took a little practice. I recommend the bucket hold-down tool, but I used a thick wire-tie stuck down the spark plug hole, because I'm impatient. I was able to swap two and replaced the other ones.

 

Huh?

Check the valves yourself, SUPER easy. The tutorial is on the site here:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... art=0.html

Check the clearances now, pull and record all the shims, and then head over to dave as he has a shim pool and will hook ya up proper.



And i see you also like mountain biking, perhaps you will be able to appreciate my other beloved steed:

 

Tip - normally number plate is obscured in photos on the www.

 

Yes it is. Mine works most of the time but on occasion it's fools me and stays flashing.

 

Bikebandit is unbelievable!!! I called up to order my tires Monday, at 1:30pm. The person on the phone tried to up-sale me, so I hung up to think about it. I called back at 2:00pm and ordered the tires.
I woke up this morning to take my dog for a walk and the UPS guy was walking to the door with a tire in hand. I got my tire delivered to my door in less then 24 hours!!! I got the lowest price shipping.

I got one tire. He said the other one maybe coming out of another warehouse.

This leads me to a question. My official Yamaha Service Manual says the front axle nut torque is 8.0ft-lb. it lists the rear one at 80ft-lbs.
8.0ft-lbs sounds pretty lose.

How come the axle torque is so lose on the front axle nut?

Chris.

 

I'm a little late to the tire discussion, but I run 712s on my Seca, 1100 miles and no complaints, even in pouring down rain.

 

Misprint.

 

The front 712 seems nice. I went around a corner about 5mph and it slipped. Kind of scary.

Chris.

 

Brand new tires need to be "Scrubed in". Go to a parking lot and do figure 8's, starting off with light turns and progresively getting deeper (leaning more) that will ruff them up some so they grip better. New tires are slippery you need to be carefull the first 100 miles or so.

 

This is good advice, thank you very much.

 

I get lazy, lol :?

 

I can see they made this bike go very nice at 55. I understand, since we had the 55mph limit then. On a bike with a sprocket, you can change the gear ratio with the change of sprockets.
Can you do this with the shaft gears?
Sure wish this had a 6th gear or the 5th was higher.

Chris.

 

Just figured out the turn signal cancel. Sometimes I would go around a corner and it would cancel. Other times I would go around and drive down the road with it still on. I then would have to manually cancel. I was thinking it was not consistent.

People tend to put the turn signals on to late. Your supposed to use them 100 to 300 ft from the turn. If you do that, they cancel just after the turn. It's when you don't turn them on soon enough, it seems like there not canceling.
Knowing this, I now see mine cancel every time.

I changed the fluid in the front brake. We cleaned out everything and flushed it.

We also changed the oil and filter. We put the new oil in and it seems it's darker then the old oil. I guessed that Motorcycle oil might be darker then motor oil but my friend didn't think so.
Any reason the new oil seems darker then the old?

Thank you,
Chris.

 

The old oil was from up north? ;-)

No really if your saying that the old oil coming out was lighter than the new oil going in...well then something was way wrong with your old oil or your new oil wasn't new. Fresh oil is translucent, amber, and very viscous (you can't create friction when it's present); whereas old oil will be opaque, black, and closer to water when it comes to viscosity. This is normal and what you will find 99.99% of the time.

The 'tangible' differences you will see between automobile and motorcycle oil are non-existent. The differences that exist are chemical not visual. Modern car/truck oils contain friction modifiers and these are not compatible with wet clutches, and for the most part were never intended to be used in air-cooled motors-since they don't exist in the modern automobile world.

Please don't think I'm talking down to you or preaching, but there are some great books out there about motor tech and all that goes with DIY maintenance. I have been working on all kinds of motors and mechanical things for the few decades I have been old enough to do that sort of thing, got off to a rocky start when I was 4 but that's another story, and believe it or not-Every time I pick up a manual or guide or book on this subject I learn something new (and every time I'm on XJBikes).

This one, Zen and Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, is really good:
http://www.amazon.com/Zen-Art-Motorcycl ... m_sbs_b_22

You already have the most important qualities: a willingness to learn and ask questions.

 

I guess to clarify,
The old oil was "opaque, black, and closer to water" out of the bike. The new oil was new looking, it was lighter then the old.
Looking at the old oil in the window, then looking at the new oil, in the bike, it looks darker then the old stuff.
Maybe since I was expecting lightER oil, it seems darker.
Chris.

 

OMG!!
I finally got the rear tire.
I would like to apologize and say thank you to bigfitz52.

When I got the bike, we looked at the rear tire and saw some checking but otherwise it was not to bad. When we took the tire off, we realized it had bubbles all over the tire! Separations everywhere! Big bumps.
The tire was cracked and bubbled all over the place. This thing was getting ready to explode!!
When I rode the new tire, I could not believe it, it rode so nice.

We looked at the brakes and saw they where coming off. Since it was just the edges, *we put it back and called it good.

One thing about the tires. Today, I was very stressed that I got the Shinko's. We tried to balance it, but ran out of weights. We had to take it in and it ended up with 5 1/2 oz of weights. I asked the shop guy why it needs so much weight and he told me the tires are junk. I responded that they had good reviews on the site. He snapped back with, "Bull Shit, I wouldn't put these tires on my kids tricycle."
I got a bike finally, started running out of money and got tires that where not expensive, but had good reviews. They had more, and better reviews than all the other better name brand tires. I tried to do the best I could with what I had and after I get them, I now have junk tires.

I will try and start a new thread but wanted to coment since these are the answers to stuff here.

Chris.

*Just kidding. The breaks looked real good. Not coming off at all. After cleaning them, they work great!!

 

I like it!

 

Shinkos are mostly fine I know a number of people running them with no issue. The 712s I put on my 750 used the same exact weight (little different position) as the Dunlops that came off it. And the guy that mounted them said he has had good luck with them except one tire that wouldn't balance that got replaced free by whoever they ordered through.

 

I saw a 83 pamphlet from Yamaha with this seat, but I didn't want to argue. I went to the Yamaha Shop today and the guy said Yamaha had three seats that year. This is the stock seat, although it might not be the one that's on your bike.

Just to mention, I looked at what he was looking at and I saw with my own eyes the different seats in the Yamaha Program on his screen.

Chris.

 

Nice bike. But I agree with bigfitx52. If you keep riding it as is, youre just looking for trouble.

 

Bike is in excellent condition. Only thing I need is a better windshield.

Chris.

 

I'm late to this thread, but gawd! It's so shiny!! It's gorgeous! And it's nice to see you've got maintenance and upkeep in hand.
I have Dunlop D404s on mine and I have no complaints at all. I bought mine at rockmountainatv.com, and was very pleased with the service.

 

umm.... still has the original front brake lines doesn't it?

 

Just caught up on this thread this morning. First I have to say that this bike is looking very good. I bought one of the same year about two years ago and it looks like crap compared to yours, PO sprayed flat black almost everywhere!
Now that you've realised the tires that were on your bike were shot, you should have come to the same thought with your front brake lines and your rear brake shoe. These should be your next priority on a very short term.

Better safe than sorry, English people say, go do these brakes right away (just for the rhyme)!
I'm a French Canadian, BTW.