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New rider and new member

Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by Adkride88, May 8, 2022.

  1. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    I used blocks of wood and a hammer as l said took me ages to break the joint with multiple hits on the exhaust ports upwards and using a timber lever on the carburettor side cam tunnel.
     
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  2. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    Copy that.

    This is what I get for getting a project bike for my first bike haha. I'ma make it work. I'll consider it training for when I'm teaching my daughter to wrench on it when she's older.
     
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  3. Fuller56

    Fuller56 Active Member

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    Also there are some plastic sleeves on the outer most studs that collect moisture and rust and hold the cylinder block tight. I think they are there to "protect" the studs but..... Heat gun and PB Blaster in there might help.
     
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  4. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Those were a lot of hassle for me. I did not know about them before I stripped the engine. They go up to just below the threads on the studs so might not not affect the removal of the head too much. Cylinders were another matter on my engine. If I have to do them again on another XJ I am using a blowtorch to burn them off as much as possible as they are visible through the fins on the exhaust side of the cylinders. The outer studs on either side of the engine don't have them because they are not exposed to the road and the right one is the main oil feed to the head anyway.

    Here is one of the new black plastic sleeves on the stud on my engine. I used the shrink tube normally used for wiring repairs, I think it was 9mm or mabe 12mm not sure now. I think Yamaha used the tube to prevent the studs ringing on the cylinders, I read that somewhere on the forum.

    1652561766487272221542491268661.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2022
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  5. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    So .... Here's the thing. I'm apparently just an a$#hole.

    Haynes manual came today. Looking at it I realized that the little bolts on the front werent counted into the 12 holding it on. It was never going to come free; there's 4 more bolts on top that I missed because they were covered with leaves and pine needles. That's been vacuumed out and is now sitting with PB blaster, I'll try to break em loose once our daughter goes to bed.
     

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  6. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    Bright side to today, I got all 3 drain plugs extracted from the bowls that were stuck, also the mix screw in the one carb that had that stripped and stuck. Now I just need a 10mm bolt extractor to get those last 2 valve seats free and I'll be in business with the carbs. Then it's just a matter of finishing their cleanup, getting the few new parts I need for them from xj4ever and getting em back together.
     
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  7. Dan Gardner

    Dan Gardner Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Ha! That's the best thing I've heard all day @Adkride88 !! Very amusing. I love those kind of stories - we've all done it, and if you can't laugh a little then what's the point?

    Sounds like you're making excellent progress!!
     
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  8. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    @Dan Gardner I'm trying, that's for sure. I am still hoping to have it going inside of a month. Maybe it's optimistic but I like to challenge myself.

    Carb jets- I should have written down what size was where. My kit has #40, #80, #110, #120. I know 40 is pilot... I'm thinking 110 is main jet, 120 is main air jet, and 80 is the pilot air- am I correct in that assumption?
     
  9. Dan Gardner

    Dan Gardner Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  10. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    I didn't even need to use a sawsall.

    Funny how easy things are to remove once you actually take all nuts/bolts out.
     

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  11. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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  12. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    There's corrosion on some of the parts inside the cylinder head. I'm going to go out on a limb and assume yes, they need to just be replaced? Guessing at a minimum this gets ultrasonic bath, just want to make sure I put it back together as I should, and not end up needing to tear it apart again in 6 months

    Yes, that's a spider nest inside of it too.
     

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  13. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    Corrosion? Not from where I’m looking. Don’t need to replace any of that. Clean the valves if you want with a rotary wire brush, be nice around the seats. Kerosene and paint brush the head, then pressure wash or hose it off. The biggest issue is cleaning the internal oilways, I would drill the end plugs out and replug, not sure if you have that capability? Whatever - don’t get crud into the oilways.
     
  14. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    @Minimutly I can just wire brush these off? Surface rust of varying severity
     

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  15. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    I definitely don't have the capability for that, same as getting the broken bolt out of the cylinder head. I am taking that to shop to get it out since I don't have a welder and it's in there too tight for vise grips. Regretfully
     
  16. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    Oops. Watched a video on YouTube and saw they annealed their copper washers to use them again.

    MAP was the wrong gas for that. Started with 6 washers, finished with 3 + a blob. At least 2 survived for the main jets in 2 carbs. The other 2 carbs still need their valve seat removed. I'll order them when I order the v seals and other few assorted parts I still need
     
  17. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

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    Yes, wear gloves and a dust mask - the wire brush will ruin your hands and the chemicals in the carbon dust is probably harmful.
    Just had a close up look at the inlet valve in no2 pic - might be worth putting another pic of that up once you’ve cleaned it, it looks more rust than carbon, which is very unusual.
     
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  18. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    That side of the bike is the worst part. Im guessing it's the side the was against the outer wall of the garage it was sitting in for 20y. Carbs 1 &2 we're really bad, 3 &4 much less so. The inside of engine looks to be the same. I think it was just how condensation preferred to form over all those years and the water/water vapor in that side of the engine did a number on it.
     
  19. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    Target is 4 weeks, week 1 officially over. Status- carbs mostly cleaned, 3&4 partially rebuilt. Exhaust off, cleaned out. Cylinder head off/cleaned to take to shop for broken bolt removal. Cam shafts cleaned. New gas tank en route (opted for a 750 tank for the look and extra miles). Front brake disassembled for when rebuild kit comes. New rectifier, wiring harness, throttle tube and cable en route. New blade fuse box installed (will need to reconnect to new harness once that's here). New AGM battery, spark plugs on standby.

    I don't think that's a half bad week, having only done it a few hours each night and on weekends when my daughter was napping, especially since I've never worked on a bike before. Lots of learning. Let's see what I can get done in the next week. Bunch of parts en route, bunch more to order still.
     
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  20. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

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    I somehow missed this comment. I haven't even gotten the cylinder block off. Haven't even tried. I think I absolutely should be, so I can really get the whole thing cleaned, but I'm getting deeper and deeper into this engine and I won't lie; getting uncomfortable with my ability to put it back together in a working manner. I would love to pull it all out and get everything shiny clean but if it needs parts to be dialed in to tight tolerances... I've never done *any* engine work, not even on cars. Once it came to engine trouble, my toolbox has historically been my wallet. I need to watch a good bit more on YouTube about tearing engines down before I dive too much deeper into it. I can take anything apart, that's not the problem. Putting it back together is where I'm at the edge of my skill set.
     

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