1. Hello Guest. You have limited privileges and you can't "SEARCH" the forums. Please "Log In" or "Sign Up" for additional functionality. Click HERE to proceed.

New rider and new member

Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by Adkride88, May 8, 2022.

  1. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    655
    Likes Received:
    251
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    East Rochester, NY
    Keep parts separated. Take pictures as you go.
     
    Adkride88 and Franz like this.
  2. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    I think I just effed up and two carbs are toast.

    The float seat was in TIGHT. I've tried bolt remover with breaker bar. Tried heat. Finally got out screw remover, picked one that fit the holes. First one I picked was too big. Split that hole in 2 spots. Thought I'd just have to replace the one body, used smaller remover for second one. Cracked that too.


    Are these toast? I feel like they are trash now. They even soaked overnight in acetone/ATF to really try to free them up. Fml.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,893
    Likes Received:
    827
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Scotland UK.
    Yes look like it, don't know if they can be repaired unfortunately.
     
  4. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    RIP. Im debating on trying to JB weld them just to get through for even a few months, then replacing this winter. This is another hundred bucks in parts... I should have waited till After we got the house to do this.
     
  5. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,893
    Likes Received:
    827
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Scotland UK.
    Take your time with your project. It's easy to damage parts especially ones that have not been apart for decades.

    If they cannot be repaired someone here may have the carburettor bodies you need.
     
  6. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    655
    Likes Received:
    251
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    East Rochester, NY
    Do all the other work you can, then put the bike in the back of the pickup truck and go to the carb clinic to fix the carb issues.
     
    Adkride88 likes this.
  7. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    If time allows it, I'll be there. If we close on our house that week... I won't be. I'll have to put everything on hold so we can get moved (and then put bike repairs on hold to do the high priority repairs we know are waiting for us in new house). All we know is we're looking at some time in June. Not sure of the exact date.
     
  8. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    @Franz looks like they're toast. I had with me when I dropped cylinder head off at the machine shop/HD shop in next town over. He said they're ruined. On a good note he did say my engine looks perfectly fine except that bolt, which he remarked would be easy to get out since it didn't break off inside the hole and had plenty to easily weld to a new nut.

    I got a stern warming to not use scotch Brite on the engine, and he said just clean it up with a spray can and a razor blade, get new gaskets on it and get it back together and should be good to go. I'll just pick up a new pair of #1&2 and be good to go. I sent Hog a pm to see if he has some, and there's some on eBay too. I've got other things to putter on so I'll be plenty busy until I buy a new pair.
     
  9. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,893
    Likes Received:
    827
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Scotland UK.
    I had the same problem with a broken bolt on my 900f and got the machine shop to remove it. It is best to do that rather than risk making the part worse. Post some more pictures of your progress if you want so we can see how your build is going.
     
    Adkride88 likes this.
  10. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    Times like this I'm glad we have really cold winters here in NY. It would have been a bad day to open that housing up and have that be live



    I'm doing a deep dive into electrical now while I wait for my 2 new carb bodies to show up, and for my cylinder head to come back to me. I thought rectifier was bad, replaced it. Still blew new fuse, so I figure there's a crimped wire somewhere, or something's not grounded correct. I bought a wiring harness too so worst off if I can't find what's wrong, I'll just replace it all and see if that does the trick.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,027
    Likes Received:
    598
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Wisconsin, Tomah
    Ya those bees are not fun...I am sure you would have had a heads up when you started to pull it apart and one or two came out. Anyway, glad they were gone and that you can clean it up.

    Before you start to buy lots of parts, do some good trouble shooting and testing of each item and that will save you some $$.

    Keep going on the project and get some good trouble shooting skills developed with this bike for future projects.
     
    Adkride88 likes this.
  12. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    Alright. These things (that I'm indicating with my pick, pic 1) around the bolts that hold the cylinder head on- do I need to remove the lower chunk of my engine down to the crank case to remove and replace them? The larger ones look good (pic 2). Figured I was only going to have to do gaskets and orings in the engine, but then these little buggers start disintegrating. I'm already going to have to order a bunch of little stuff like v seals and washers for the carbs, and other little incidental things so I want to maximize my shipping cost to make the most of it.

    Status overall is bike is down an entire front fork (pic 3). Bearings fully cleaned and ready to pack/assemble again. Going to use wire brush to get rust from inside headlight housing and clean that all up. Front wheel has wd40 on it so I can maybe get it off the fork to set aside for getting new tires. I'm hoping to get fork disassembled, cleaned, reassembled this weekend. Oh and both handlebar controls are working great again. They were completely frozen up, mud wasp nest in one, they were bad. Now they're working great, even polished up the electrical contacts in them. They look as beat up as ever but they're working great. I might possibly try to squeeze in getting some rust off my exhaust pipes this weekend too.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,893
    Likes Received:
    827
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Scotland UK.
    My engine was out of the frame because l was splitting the cases. When you remove the cylinders some of the loose dirt and the sheathing Yamaha put on the studs in your 1st picture can get into the cases. You have to remove the cylinders to get the old sheathing off. The mistake l made was not burning as much off through the front engine fins before l removed the cylinders. The problem l had was the sheathing bunched up between the top of the studs and barrels. I took my time so l didn't damage anything and eventually got them off. To compound the problem the stud on my 900f engine at the front centre of the cylinders was corroded. Ended up using heat from a MAP gas torch to free it. The sheathing was to protect the studs from corrosion and prevent ringing between the barrels and studs. Use a torch to see at an angle behind the frame tubes between the fins if the sheathing is intact in the sections exposed to the road. You might be able to just refit the head.

    I was thinking if it would be possible to unscrew the studs from the case on the sheathed ones to see if they could be removed easier re-sheathed and refitted that way. I wonder if anyone has tried this? Then again they will probably be difficult to remove given all the time and heat cycles they have been through. Then again you don't want loose bits of sheathing getting into the stud holes in the case :eek:.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2022
    Adkride88 likes this.
  14. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    @Franz I had to read that several times to understand it, hah. So if I'm understanding correctly that sheathing is just to protect the bolts, and has no active function and as long as it's still intact down low should be fine to just forget about for now.

    I do plan to eventually fully strip it all down, but if I don't have to do it now, I don't want to me
     
  15. Adkride88

    Adkride88 Member

    Messages:
    73
    Likes Received:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    8
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    @Franz RIP- the ones along the rear of engine are great. Along the front ... 5 of 6 bolts are corroded. Can see exposed bolts in fins

    This means a teardown, yea? Fml. I don't want to end up down in the crank case. I am nervous I'll take that off to replace bolts and end up needing to do piston rings or something, and then be way in over my head trying to set clearances and whatever else I need to do.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,893
    Likes Received:
    827
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Scotland UK.
    Yes the sheathing protects the studs. I expect the ones at the rear of the engine to be fine as they are not facing all the road dirt and rain. If you don't want to remove the cylinders until later you could do that and spray some heat resistant paint on the studs at the front of the engine to give them some protection. If you decide to remove the cylinders you don't want to break any piston rings. I don't know if you can buy replacement rings now. As for valve clearances you should check them anyway even if you decide not to remove the cylinders.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2022
  17. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,893
    Likes Received:
    827
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Scotland UK.
  18. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,893
    Likes Received:
    827
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Scotland UK.
    If you have not done so I would advise you to put a rag or tape over the cam chain tunnel to prevent anything falling into the crankcase. When my engine was out I lost a bolt down the opening of the cam chain tensioner :eek: I got it out with a magnetic pick up tool fortunately. Make sure during reassembly the exhaust cam chain guide is inside its pocket in the crankcase. Let me know if you want a picture uploaded of this.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2022
  19. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,405
    Likes Received:
    547
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    West Wales, uk
    What did you use to screw them up? An easy-out? (Like a tapered left hand thread thing?) that job was only ever going to have one outcome...
     
    Adkride88 likes this.
  20. Minimutly

    Minimutly Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,405
    Likes Received:
    547
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    West Wales, uk
    I would go further than telling you to take your time - STOP STRIPPING THE ENGINE NOW.
    If the barrels are not worn, or the base gasket is showing signs of leakage, leave the block in place. It doesn’t need removing. Sure, clean the head and valves, lap the seats, set the clearances, but then put it back together, carefully.
    Get a set of carbs cleaned and bench set, do the rest of the stuff around the engine, get it running and riding, do the sea foam thing with the oil if you want - did you free off the clutch?
    Sorry, but that’s the best advice I can give.
    Good luck.
     
    Timbox, Adkride88 and Franz like this.

Share This Page