petcock update

so i pulled the tank and with the petcock in the ON position, it was still dripping slowly. when i leaned the tank toward the side of the petcock, it leaked more quickly. the only part that looked old and worn looks like an O-ring but in my manual they call it a spring and the online shops call it the wave washer. should i just replace this or buy a $34 petcock rebuild kit and replace the parts that come with that? i still think an extra on/off switch is a good idea, just gotta figure out how to fit it in.
thanks

 

The Kit might leak too.
Many who have tried to install a Kit wound up with Oil in the Sump.

My very best advice on this matter is:

Add a Briggs and Stratton Fuel Shut-off Valve for "No leak-by Insurance.

Don't bother rebuilding a Petcock.
You can get a Brand New one for $64.00

The old one lasted a quarter of a Century.
Get the New Petcock and start working on the next 25-Years!

 

Rick, just because you can't fix it doesn't mean someone else can't. Personally, I don't see the need for a second petcock, but then again, Paranoia Pays.

Fonz, replacing the wave washer by itself likely will not fix the problem. If it isn't the vacuum diaphragm, the other likely candidate(s) would be the back of the selector lever itself being warped, and/or the rubber "distribution valve" behind it with the five holes being flattened or damaged.

My distribution valve was fine; it came with the rebuild kit I had gotten earlier. I replaced the wave washer and selector lever o-ring (don't forget the silicone grease!), and flattened the back of the selector lever with some fine grit sandpaper (600 or 800 grit, I forget which) spritzed with WD40.

Chat with Chacal; he has the parts you will need, plus technical expertise.

 

well, paranoia got the better of me. just ordered a new petcock assembly and the extra on/off switch. i might just have to put the old one back in on wednesday and leak because the weatherman is calling for 68 degrees. Rick, how difficult/easy was it to install the on/off valve? i saw something in a post about it that you had to trim down the one side with a dremel.

 

The switch's valve has a lnow that is made long on one side to act as a direction indicator.

With the longer side of the Valve left on ... it will either hit the underside of the Tank, ... if you put it on there one way ... or, it will be right on the Top of a the Outside Carb, if you mount it 180-Degrees the other way.

Niot wanting to hear it contact the Tank or have it bumb the Carb ... I trimmed the "Long side" down to have no one side longer.

You might not need to do any trimming if you get a Non-Briggs & Strattton shut-off valve.

Either way, it was easy and the Gas gets turned OFF not instead of juet relying on the Petcock.

 

i ordered the one that you posted awhile back.

http://www.hyperparts.com/wc.dll?ctwp~g ... rt~120-212

 

Hold on!... it's a wee bit more complex than that.
IF yr vacuum petcock is F'd you really need to either rebuild it, or Replace it entirely. (miKesSX.com has a rebuild kit for $16 and a Brand new non vacuum unit for $38 )
Reason is: the damned thing is a major Vacuum leak.. not overly good for either your Idle nor your valves to run with an open air leak :roll: