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Reassembly of Clutch Cover - '82 XJ750J Maxim

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by fiveofakind, Oct 2, 2013.

  1. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    After putting on the clutch cover plate, how does one know that exact position of where to have the clutch lever rod when first applying the cover back unto the clutch housing......I know it should be fitting into the teeth of the pull rod ( throwout pull rod inside ).....

    But the exact position of where it should be on outside is confusing.....or does one adjust the position on the outside for the clutch lever rod....once the clutch cover is attached....by taking off circlip...pulling of lever rod & re-positioning it....

    and what is that raised line etched into the clutch cover housing for...near the outside rod in pic...

    Any help would be appreciated....

    Thanks in advance.

    see attached pic....

    [​IMG]
     
  2. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Place the Cover back-on with the Throw-arm removed.
    Let the Rod rotate as the Cover is re-mounted.
    Once the Cover is back-on and tight, ... go about the process of adjusting the Throw-arm to the Rod after rotating the Rod to remove free-play.

    I wind a Shoelace around the Rod and pull the slack out.
    (Much like starting a rope-pull Go-cart Engine. Pull-out the Free-play and Tape the lace to the Cover while positioning the Throw-arm and Cable-end.)
     
  3. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    what is the raised line for on the clutch cover housing.....???

    & the factory service manuals don't tell you jack about any of this process for changing out friction & metal plates & reassembly....

    So much for the factory service manuals sometimes....the Japs could use a good American technical writer.....
     
  4. adrian1

    adrian1 Active Member

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  5. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member

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    The "ring" on the outside? Cosmetic. Part of the gasket between the inner and outer covers.

    Here's the clutch "how-to" except yours is simpler. You won't have asymmetrical tabbed plain plates or a special friction plate w/clutch boss spring in it, just friction plates and steels. The principles are the same however: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html
     
  6. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    Fitz, I meant the raised line on the clutch cover up by the clutch lever rod & spring ........what is the purpose of that...nothing ????
     
  7. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member

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    That has a purpose too.

    That is the "alignment mark" for the little "pip" on the heel of the actuating lever to line up with when the lever is pushed forward by hand until it stops. (Which brings the pullrod up against the back of the pressure plate.)

    Unfortunately, I don't see any sort of alignment mark on your actuating lever to line up with it.

    Start with the lever pointing straight inboard from that mark, and then back it up one spline's worth and see where that puts you.

    I suspect a PO has replaced the little lever with one from a different bike, like a 550.
     
  8. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    I am the PO....& yes, upon further examination, there is what appears to be an alignment mark on actuating lever, a small punch mark on end of lever...

    So here is what I have done so far:

    1. Installed 8 new friction plates - all 8 are the same
    2. Re-used all 7 metal plates
    3. New clutch springs - 5 of them
    4. Re-used washers & bolts - oh well....
    5. Torqued to 7.2 ft/lbs.

    What is the purpose of the aligning the dot on pressurre plate to the dot on the clutch hub.......??? Just curious.....

    Question 1: the pull rod has about 2-3 mm of movement in & out - is this about right ???

    Just curious......I pushed & pulled on it to see what kind of movement I had...turns fine...no binding....

    Teeth on pull rod & teeth on shaft pinion gear are fine......

    Re-installed cover with new gasket & pinion gear is aligned with pull rod teeth....so that is all good.

    Question 2:

    Now with the cover on.....I can only turn the shaft that the actuating lever goes on with my fingers for again 2-3 mm in a round motion ....does that seem right ?? Hope this not a dumb question......is that because the pull rod is up against the pressure plate with new tight springs installed ???

    Question 3:

    Just not sure how to set the actuating lever on the shaft to attached the clutch cable to ? Will I be able to pry up on this lever & get more movement out of the pull rod as the springs will compress inside ??? Just curious... I don't want to force anything or break something because of a stupid move.....

    I believe I am also there.....just have to figure out the repositioning of the actuating lever back on the shaft on the oustide to attached my cable....

    Thanks for the patience with this.....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Heyitsme

    Heyitsme Member

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    My God.. that was epic.
     
  10. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member

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    STOP!

    You put it together DRY? Looks like it in the pics...

    You didn't read my how-to, or the manual. Pull it back apart and soak the new friction plates in fresh oil for a couple of hours, lest you glaze them and burn your plain plates before enough oil manages to get into the clutch. Slather everything else with fresh oil as you're assembling it.

    You turn the shaft clockwise until it stops, (so the pullrod is up against the back of the pressure plate) then put the little lever on with it's mark (the one I didn't see) aligned with the line on the cover. If it turns out you need a tad more "pull" you can back it up a spline.

    The aligning dots on the hub and pressure plate are because those parts are not 100% symmetrical and if the dots aren't aligned the pressure plate can bind on the hub.
     
  11. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    Fitz, I did read your tutorial...all 8 friction plates were soaked for about 2 hours in fresh 4-stroke oil......the 7 metal plates were dremeled & scotch-brited, wiped off & put back in between each friction plate......but not soaked in oil.....

    Cover is now on...if I have to....I can pull back off and soak everything again.....

    The pic above makes it appear that the outside friction plate is dry & was not soaked.....hence your questioning of re-install.....

    You state above...."Turn the shaft clockwise until it stops"....that would only be about a 2-3 mm movement of the outside shaft but I can feel that the pull rod is up against the pressure plate......so I deduct that is right ......then re-attached cable......

    Does that sound right ?
     
  12. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    Sorry, another question....

    With regards to actuating lever, when you state

    "You turn the shaft clockwise until it stops, (so the pullrod is up against the back of the pressure plate) then put the little lever on with it's mark (the one I didn't see) aligned with the line on the cover"

    Is this done without the spring already hooked to the lever...because if it is... the spring will then draw the lever back to the left mis-aligning the marks

    or is it done with the spring on the lever ( creating tension )..so that when you turn shaft to the right until it stops......& hope marks are aligned....

    Just a little confused.....

    Haynes nor factory service explain this procedure at all......the manuals suck....a definite lack of information.....

    Thanks for your patience....
     
  13. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member

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    Yes the little spring will draw the lever back, that's its job. You hook it up last. It's just there to keep the cable taut.

    You want the end result to be such that when you push the little lever forward by hand, it stops with the marks aligned.

    Sorry about the soaking in oil thing; as long as you did soak the friction plates you should be OK, but for future reference everything should be dredged in oil when reassembling a "wet" clutch.

    And I know the manuals suck, hence the work I put into the "how-tos."
     
  14. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    Your how to's are very much appreciated and your advise highly respected.....thanks againfor your help
     
  15. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member

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    No worries; keep asking questions if getting it properly adjusted doesn't want to happen.
     
  16. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Do The Full Monte adjusting your Clutch.

    Start at the Perch.
    Position the Knurled Slack Adjuster half-way.
    SEAT the Cable in the receiving-end of the Adjuster.
    Have someone HOLD the Cable-end in that Adjuster while you go-about the business of positioning the Bottom Cable Adjustment Barrel to position it for any needed repositioning to guarantee MAXIMUM THROW.

    When you take all the Slack out, ... use a Pair of Padded Vice Grips to lever-over the Throw-arms Attaching gizmo.


    You need the whole throw-out on these XJ Clutches. It is not unusual for the adjustment to be complicated by the improper replacement of the Clutch Throw-out Arm, after any work, which might have made removing it convenient or necessary.

    If you are not getting enough Clutch throw-out; it might be necessary to reposition the Throw-out Lever a notch or two Counterclockwise on the splines of the Clutch Throw-out ROD.

    Remove the Throw-out Lever from the splined end of the Throw-out ROD. Turn the ROD Clockwise until its motion stops upon contact at the clutch.
    Maintain contact at the Clutch by holding the ROD fully Clockwise and reposition the Throw-out LEVER back on the spines to where it's new position removes cable slack.

    Make the necessary adjustments to all the lower components and adjustment features until you get ZERO Lash >> OBTAINABLE << using the Knurl at the Clutch Lever.

    ZERO Lash, or a Dollar-Bill's width of Free-Play will:
    Prevent "Red Light Creep" ... "Neutral Fight" ... "Clunk-Jerk" shifting into First.
     
  17. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member

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    If you run completely ZERO cable play, you can burn up the wafer bearing. It wasn't intended to be in constant contact.

    BUT you only need 1mm ~ 3mm at the handlebar lever, which isn't much. Just enough to keep from murdering the wafer bearing.

    A brand new, OEM clutch cable also does wonders. No "stretch."
     
  18. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    Rick, Great write-up & thank you......makes perfect sense.....between you & Fitz....I will tackle this tomorrow.....getting close to firing up my 30+ yr old bike.....last time it ran was '07......I have put plenty of money into restoring this bike I have owned since day one.....

    However, I am in no hurry to rush to get it done....as the weather here allows 12 months of riding.....i will be back on the road soon enough....
     
  19. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member

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    Come February, when my garage is iced/snowed in and you're tooling around SoCal on two wheels...

    EAT A BUG for me.
     
  20. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    I will GoPro a couple videos of the bathing beauties in San Diego for you.....

    I agree with 1-3 mm of freeplay at the handlebar lever...just enough to keep the pullrod off the back of the pressure plate.... I dont want to burn up the thrust bearing....I believe that is what you are referring to...

    Off to Octoberfest for some brauts & beer.....& funky chicken dancing.....yee ha....
     

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