Signals not flashing; horn not working when stopped

What voltage on the capacitor? 12V's? That's what my guy is asking me.

 

There is no 3 terminal relay that functions in the same way as the propriatary OEM relay. If there is a need to replace an OEM turn signal relay all you need is a 2 terminal relay with input and load. The C terminal is for the capacitor, which is used by the auto-cancel circuit.


There is however a method for using two realys in concert that retians the auto cancel feature.

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/posts/401875/

 

Yes, 12V at a minumum. The cap can be a bit less than 1200uf and it will still work, but the signal flash rate will be slightly (just barely) altered.

 

cap shows 16 volts printed on it, resistor is 1 watt
cap physical size is what needs to be concerned with so it fits the case and holder it can be glued in if dia is smaller

cap is polorized (+ and -) note when removing there will be a black arrow .
the plus side hooks to holding bracket

 

I have a 1/2W and 2W resistor. Should I use the lower one? Presumably, the lower wattage resistor would need less voltage to get the relay blinking.

 

that is not how resistors work wattage is what they will take use what will fit in the space.
resistors build up heat as they work in a circuit, the wattage is just to tell you how much the resistor will withstand before failing.
if the 2 watt will fit use that.

 

I used the Novita EP34 (Advanced auto didn't carry LED two terminal all electronic ones) with a wire going from the 'E' terminal to ground. I used the original rubber grommet mount with a long enough cable tie that went through the grommet hand held the relay at the same time. I used the following 1156 LED's :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181963147793?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Very impressed with these led bulbs.

 

Mine was 12. Not uncommon to have a spec change based on availability though. Just so long as it's not rated for less than 12 volts there won't be a problem. Even a 10V cap will work, it just won't last for long (maybe a year).

 

voltage drop across resistor would likely keep voltage low enough

 

I just checked my electronics store - and they have a 1200uf 35v capacitor. I'm assuming it's better to go over rather than lower like a 10V capacitor?

 

will it fit into the cube is the question? and yes cap voltage being higher is not a problem

 

The saga continues. Shoddy work but...

Changed to a (new) 1000uf 16v capacitor and didn't improve it.

Then swapped with a 150 ohm (2w) resistor and it improved it. But the resistor was salvaged from an old component - Because the store didn't have a 1w rated resistor.

I measured the original resistor and it measured at 150 ohms. Doesn't make sense that it would improve it.

My signals start to flash at 1100rpm but not at idle at 1040 rpm.

I wonder:

If the signal cancelation relay is the last variable. I think the reason why the 2 pole after market relay fixed my issue because it by passed the canceling unit.

Is it possible that a resistor cam misbehave if it's old despite measuring the correct resistor?

 

Bump your idle up to 1100 RPM. That's where the engine really prefers idle to be, despite what the manual says.

If the resistor were at fault it would be at fault at all engine speeds.

 

unplug your canceling unit see if things work then

 

I know this is an old thread but I changed the fusebox today (and installed new connectors) to prep for summer. Solved my signal problems during idle, no horn during idle and especially my starting problems! Previously I had to put the fuel to prime and the choke to max but now it starts beautifully and instantly.