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Simmy's Naked Turbo Project

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Simmy, Feb 25, 2017.

  1. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    you are awesome!
    I have complete respect for anyone who can look over a schematic and quickly understand it.
    Thank you.

    My apologies to the hosting site, I burned my bandwidth allowance with all these diagrams.
    Now I can list the parts I need from Chacal.
     
  2. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I doctored these changes and labeled a few things for final revision
    It might be a good sticky in the DIY section.
     
  3. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Well that does look nice

    So that includes mating connectors and terminals to adapt the Turbo harness to the RJC gauge cluster for a nice clean fit?
     
  4. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    Just keep in mind that I cannot find any documentation on the pinout of the RJ diode pack therefore may have to swap the B/R wires if things do not work as expected. You may have traced this out already.

    *edited to correct wire color
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2019
  5. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Yes I was able to salvage the connector blocks and any coloured wire from the donor RJC bike.
    I'm putting new terminal ends on everything I've changed and trying to avoid splices.
    It should look like a Yamaha wiring harness when I'm done.

    I have just the RJC schematic, you're right they could get mixed around, need to keep that in mind.
     
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  6. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    So I am confused by this - the R/W wire and Simmy agrees? Anyway this should be the diode pack for the RJ - not sure if RJC matches so may want to check P/N for that.

    upload_2019-11-29_18-9-57.png
     

    Attached Files:

  7. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    Yikes, my bad. Long week I guess. I meant B/R wires, the diagram has a B/R wire for both the wire from the oil switch to diode and from the oil light to the diode. I don't have a diode pack in front of me to look but I'll gladly pull my headlight out tomorrow and see what the corresponding wires are if needed.

    I corrected my mistake above but thank you for pointing that out. Hopefully I didn't confuse you @Simmy !

    If rooster53 has the correct diagram for the RJ block, the G is the oil sender, B/R is the light, and L/W is from the starter button/solenoid ground connection.
     
  8. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I knew what you meant, I didn't actually notice you said R/W instead of B/R.
    Here is a good pic of the RJC diode block and connectors
    RJC diode pack.jpg
     
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  9. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    thanks Rooster, the pin out is the same, so I assume the same diode between RJC and RJ.
    I looked through the supplemental manual I have for the RJC but couldn't find its P/N.
     
  10. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    The diode blocks should be the same as long as the RJC has a sidestand safety switch and associated relay...……….
     
  11. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I'm not intending to clutter up the dash with a boost gauge. The OEM gauge was pretty much useless as I remember.
    The needle swung all the way to the right with any amount of boost. Who needs that?
    I do plan to buy a cheapie mechanical gauge and temporarily mount it for setting up the BoostValve.
    An alternate fuel pump is all I still have to buy for this bike.
    So that should be it for any wiring woes.
    I'll go ahead and post the final plans. I sure hope everything works.
    final wiring diagram XJ650LJ RJ.jpg
     
  12. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I have 2 boost pressure sensors.
    Both measured 2.2V, so both within the specified range 2.0-2.3V at atmospheric.
    After hearing the trouble @JeffK had with his measuring 4V, he cut it apart and pre-bent the strain gauge,
    sure glad I didn't need to get into that.
    IMG_0746[1].jpg
     
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  13. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    the conversion to the tail of my bike is pretty much completed.
    It is a fully restored tail end of the standard Seca now. Except for 2 x-welds everything is standard XJ650RJ.
    The rear fender is in the best condition I've ever seen one.
    It came from the same bike as my instruments and headlight.
    I also have the seat from that bike but it looks like someone added padding.
    I'm using another seat from a Seca which had just 6,000 kms on it. It's an original seat without rips
    but I already have a cover from Chacal.
    The wiring is still a big job in front of me. I was planning to route the wiring under the steering like the standard Seca but I just noticed the larger oil cooler closes off this route.
    The wiring needs to go back along each side of the neck of the frame just like the Turbo has, this will be visible but lots of bikes are like that.

    notes.jpg
     
  14. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    diagram.jpg
     
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  15. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I showed this before where the RJ sidecover bracket fouls the Turbo's R/R.
    There's really no concern with this, I can slightly wedge the plastic tray back to clear.

    intersection.jpg
     
  16. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I took this picture last spring actually.
    Isn't this the epitome of a cafe racer?


    profile.jpg
     
  17. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    @Simmy did you remove the Yamaha sticker off the tail? I'm curious as my 82 650RJ does not have it either and I can't tell if there was ever one to begin with. The bike is in fantastic condition so I don't believe it just wore off.
     
  18. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I have 3 tail pieces on hand with original paint and none have the Yamaha decal.
    My other Seca on my sidecar started out as the red one but I custom painted it 26 years ago. I can't recall if it had Yamaha across the tail?
    IMG_0764[1].jpg
     
  19. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    Thanks. The decal is still available and decently priced but I’m on the fence if I like it there and I can’t tell if mine had it originally.
     

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