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Simmy's Naked Turbo Project

Discussion in 'XJ Modifications' started by Simmy, Feb 25, 2017.

  1. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    nothing to update this thread with any progress as home renos currently in the way.
    I did manage to score some shiny shocks off an 83 XJ900RK or 84 XJ750RL.
    These will give my Seca some bling and it's all Yamaha, I like that.

    900shocks.JPG
     
    Franz, hogfiddles and k-moe like this.
  2. MattiThundrrr

    MattiThundrrr Not a guru

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    Oooh, offset reservoir? Sparkly!
     
  3. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    confirmation that the RJ tank needs mods to fit the Turbo petcock.
    turbo petcock.jpg

    seca tank.jpg
    2 years searching this is the best tank I could find. There is one big dent in the top otherwise it is pretty good.
    There is no rust anyway.
    IMG_0260[1].jpg
    My plan is to cut the petcock mount right out of the turbo tank and just lap it onto the RJ tank for welding.
    Turbo tanks are all over ebay and not worth more than scrap metal
     
  4. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    For the actual turbo unit rebuild I packaged it up with the new replacement seals kit and sent off to Cherry Turbos here on the Canadian side.
    At least this way I know it will be perfect.

    I received a BoostValve in the mail. This will enable adjustment of boost pressures. Looks to be real quality kit machined from aluminum.
    I bought some Ducati 900SS silencers because I liked the look of them.
    I'm thinking the bike will look better with 2 pipes even if it does add weight.
    As you can see it will not be that easy to swap over the snaked bends and make it fit.
    Pictured is the waste gate side (RH). The left hand side is a similar challenge.
    The welds will be carbon to SS. At least I think the Yamaha pipes are just CS.
    The Ducati flows just 450cc's from each side so I'm not sure if the left side only will flow everything the XJTurbo exhales.
    Need to know this before I go to this trouble. Did I say I love the look of them?
    Ducati pipes.jpg
     
  5. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Here are the bits removed from the RJ frame which will be welded on to the LJ frame.
    RJ Frame bits.jpg
    On the LJ the battery sits on the left. The RJ battery sits on the right.
    It appears the left side lower clip for the RJ side cover will interfere with the battery.
    I can either install a slimmer battery or mount the clip not so deep and modify the side cover tab.

    Below is the tab I'm talking about. It doesn't have to be so deep.
    I can modify the side cover here.
    left sidecover.jpg

    The pic below shows how much shorter the RJ tail is to the LJ
    RJ vs LJ tail.jpg
     
  6. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    It appears the RJ has less steering angle than the turbo but without the steering stem assembled it is hard to tell.
    The RJ has slightly lower handle bars maybe this is why.
    The RJ had tapered bearings installed but the races are impossible to remove., there is no shoulder to catch the punch.
    The LJ still had balls so I can't just fit it together at the moment to see.
    I think I will run a few passes of weld on the LJ stops before painting the frame. Easy to file it down later if needed.

    RJ steering stops.jpg
    RJ above
    LJ below
    LJ steering stoips.jpg
     
  7. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    That was a mild brain fart as I was only comparing the fork lock.
    The steering stops are at the bottom of the stem.
    Actually it is the RJ with the tighter steering. This makes more sense because the LJ has all that fairing.
    Below, the vernier is on the LJ, then I moved it to the RJ stem without adjusting it so you can see how much different it is.
    I took some basic measurements of the stops on the lower fork clamps and it appears the stops are the same on both.
    I will need to assemble the RJ triple tree into the LJ frame with the ignition installed to make sure this all fits, - before painting.
    The trouble is that one bike had tapered bearings so now the parts don't easily interchange.
    I was planning to buy new tapered steering bearings but now I have to fit the ball type back onto the RJ clamps just to verify the fit up.

    LJ steering stops.jpg

    RJ steering stopsn.jpg
    lower fork clamps.jpg
     
  8. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    I assembled the RJ fork clamps to the LJ frame with the main switch installed to verify the fit and to make sure
    it clears the fuel tank at full lock. Steering lock works with key, good to go.
    IMG_0293[1].jpg
    IMG_0295[1].jpg
    You can see where I cut off the bottom edge of the main fairing mount to clear the RJ's headlight mounting frame.
    I'm undecided about cutting these mounts completely off. If I ever mount some type of fairing these might come in handy.
    The LJ serial number tag is in a weird spot because of this tab.
    IMG_0297[1].jpg
    All clear with the steering lock to tank
     
  9. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    As I long suspected the mounting plate for the fuel pump fouls with the RJ tank.
    I put the bottom of the tank in the picture so you can see that the RJ tank actually has a bulge which protrudes
    down between the frame rails to carry extra fuel.
    I have 2 options, relocate the fuel pump or bash the fuel tank in .

    IMG_0303[1].jpg
    IMG_0298[1].jpg
    You can see above this interference keeps the tank about a 1/2" from resting in place.
     
  10. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Question for JeffK, you installed an R6 fuel pump. Was it smaller and how did you mount it?
     
  11. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    Very cool, followign this build for sure.

    If you put an @ symbol in front of a users name, it will alert them that you mentioned them. In this case @JeffK
     
  12. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Jay I did not know that.
    Just looked up R6 fuel pump on ebay. It is full of new $20 Chinese units I've read best to avoid.
    Spotted a used genuine Yamaha unit for $40.
    In any event it will not be much of an ordeal to re-position one lower.
    I will proceed to remove the OEM fuel pump mounts.
     
  13. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Can you just use a small (thin) spacer at the rear of the tank to "jack up" the RJ tank slightly (so as the clear the pump mount)? A 1/4" at the back might translate to 1/2" clearance in the area of concern........
     
  14. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    It’s a lever with the pivot at the steering stem. Half way out where the fuel pump mounts will be twice that where the seat joins up. There would be a large gap to the side covers, no good.
    The OEM fuel pump seems huge compared to an R6. I planned to replace the fuel pump with a higher pressure pump anyway. The fact it is smaller solves my issue. I really want this thing to look like the bike Yamaha should have built. I met up with Brian at BDesign (we’re in the same town) and he is making me custom graphics which will enforce the illusion. I’m not revealing anything more on this at this point.
     
  15. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Only difficulty with that solution is that the input and output on the R6 pump are on the same end of the pump, instead of being on opposite ends like the turbo pump...........this can make fuel hose routing a bit of a challenge, given the placement of the petcock, pressure regulator, and the check valve. And don't forget to save and re-use hose spiral springs on the outside of the fuel hoses, those are to prevent the hose from collapsing internally when the hose is forced into tight bends.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2018
  16. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Len, more stuff to noodle on and another sleepless night thinking about this nonsense.
    Perhaps the ultimate solution is to install the pump in the tank like the R6. More tricky welds though.
     
  17. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    I would recommend a Nike solution.......
     
  18. JeffK

    JeffK Well-Known Member

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    I was watching all your recent updates and was waiting to comment and didn't see your question. I mounted the R6 pump using a clamp, with it's collar in the same location as stock, wired directly to the stock connection so it comes on with the starter...etc.

    I had to mod the tubing since I mounted it with the outlets opposite of the stock configuration but that was just a bit of plumbing but it's tight in there so be mindful. The R6 pump gives me plenty of psi, well above the 18 or so I run.

    Your bike is looking good! I had no idea that you were building this practically from the ground up!

    jeff
     
  19. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    tail.jpg
    RJ tail fitted to LJ frame, not welded yet
    tubeinsert##.jpg
    I had some 7/8" tubing on hand from some previous project.
    A little time on my shade tree lath (bench grinder) allowed it to fit inside the sub-frame tubing.
    tube insert.jpg
    nice easy gap for welding. Still need to V it out a bit with a bastard file
    IMG_0318.JPG
    RJ and LJ have same seat latch bracket, this saves effort
    IMG_0317.JPG
    seat latch
    seat hinge.jpg
    One seat hinge ready
     
  20. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    fitted frame Dec 2018.jpg
    I have the frame as far I can go in my garage now.
    I fitted and tacked all the XJ650RJ side cover tabs and seat hinges but its not welded out yet.
    My welding sucks, and I know many welders.
    After that its sandblast and paint.

    I'm also consolidating everything else that gets sandblast and paint.
    My last bike resurrection I sandblasted and painted all the black stuff myself.
    If I can get all this stuff done by a professional it will sure make my life easier.
    Powder coating is my dream.
    After the frame I'm going to focus on the motor.
    For now I'm hoping I can just revive the original numbers matching Turbo motor.
    It will be infinitely easier to revive this XJ650LJ if I keep everything mechanically stock.
    If I get it running with more boost it might be all the fun I need.
    Big displacement is a later possibility but I always envisioned doing that alongside a running bike.
    That's why I have the 900 and another Turbo motor for a mock up.

    I have the original wiring harness and also the RJ harness. I'd like to lay them out on a table.
    I can see salvaging parts of the RJ harness around the headlight.
    Another big dream would be to have a wiring harness all complete and ready to strap in.
    I have the entire XJ650RJC headlight and instrument cluster from what was a museum quality bike with 13,000 kms.
    That was the holy grail find I needed to build this bike.
    It was being cafe'd. I also have the seat, side covers and blinkers from that bike.
    My wiring mods are basically just an Atari delete I think.
     

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