Stator coil wires??

Ok so I am trying to test my stator. Well the manual says to track down the 3 white wires and use the ohm tester. well I can't do this yet because I have to go buy some allen head sockets tomorrow to get my side cover off to trace the wires but I was wondering if anyone could get a picture maybe off of a manual and point out where they are at to maybe save me some time. By the way I have a 92 xj600s.

 

If you go to www.carlsalter.com you can download a free pdf version of the diversion/seca II manual.

You do not need to undo the stator. Find the voltage regulator and unplug it. It is underneath the l/h or r/h side panel (I think). Ther are either 4 or 5 wires. Red charges the battery and there may or may not be a black (On later models). Left pic is an early 4 wire model and the right the later 5 wire.


Just test at the plug - no need to dismantle!

One word - well a few - of caution. Be aware the diversion (And my bike because it is a later model) use a permanent magnet alternator. So if anyone says "Check your brushes" - it does not have any!

 

ok yea i found that plug pretty easy earlier but i wasnt sure if thats where i had to test it. and it has 3 white and one red wire. So I have a multimeter that has the ohms selection on it.. will that work?

 

That's the guy. Check each pair of white wires. I think the spec is 0.5 ohm. Don't be surprised (or concerned) if it reads a bit higher (1-1.5 ohm). What you're really looking for is that it's not open or shorted.

You should also check each white lead to ground. They should all be open, or infinite resistance.

 

in the manual it says it should read between .32 and .48

 

0.5 IS 0.48! Don't forget you are also measuring the resistance of the meter leads and is your meter that accurate? What were your symptoms- Fried battery , Flat battery, lights getting dimmer?

 

my sypmtoms were I bought a new battery. charged it.. let idle for like 30 mins. Went to go for a ride after idling and it died within 5 miles from the start. Had to jump it 5 times to get it home that day. Have since tried it all over again and same thing keeps happening. Didnt start doing this til after I put the new battery in my bike. Took my battery in to be tested but since I didnt have it fully charged they couldnt tell if it was bad or not.

 

I would charge the battery then start the bike. Use your meter to test the battery voltage (I think there is a testing section in the manual). At Idle, the alternator output will be low so only expect 12 or so volts. Over 2000 rev/min, the alternator should start charging the battery, so expect 13.5 to 14v. If you rev further the output shouldn't go above about 15 volts. The exact figures are in the Haynes book.

A rough-and-ready check is to run the bike and switch the headlight on. As you rev the engine, the lights should get brighter.

If the stator checks out ok, make sure there is continuity between the red wire and the battery positive, before you condem the regulator.
This was a fault i had years ago on an old Honda 500, where a connector was corroded.

 

The alternator doesn't produce charging voltage until about 2,000RPM. It's a wonder it didn't die before you started to ride. I can envision you riding off on an almost dead battery and before it gets a chance to take a charge you use the brakes, lighting the brake light, and killing the ignition due to low voltage. There isn't enough juice in the battery to start it so you jump it. It runs until next time you use the brakes. Repeat all the way home.

Charge it up again. Start, measure battery voltage at 2000RPM. If you've got more than 14V your stator, rotor, brushes and rectifier circuits are all good. Run it up to 3000RPM, if the voltage is below 15 the regulator circuit is working too.

 

Here's a real quick check: If your headlight doesn't brighten up a bit when you rev the engine off idle, then you know your battery is not charging.

 

ok so i tested the stator and it seems good. my battery is fully charged. when i bought the battery i put it on directly from auto zone where i bought it. Didn't do any charging to it before I tried riding home an hour on it and thats when i had to jump it 5 times. Could riding on it brand new without charging it have ruined my battery in someway to where it wont keep charge?? any help is greatly appreciated.

 

I would have thought that if the bike started, as long as you were running at reasonable revs, it should have charged.

I think the battery should be ok.

What results did you get measuring the battery voltage at different rpms?

 

well the meter I have isnt the best and it just read into the good and not the replace part.

 

Ok, Perhaps you know some one who has a voltmeter/multimeter who can help, or test it for you.

It's really important to know what is coming out of the regulator to advise you better.

One quick test - unplug the regulator and put a meter between the red wire in the plug and the black wire to the frame of the bike. You should be measuring the battery voltage (Dont run the engine). If you cannot "See" the battery voltage, there is a wiring fault between the regulator and the battery.

Regulators can fail but who wants to spend $80 unless you have to!

 

i have a multimeter and when I tested the regulater plug it made the needle go all the way to the right whether I had it on 10 all the way up to 1x

 

This might sound a daft question, but can you pm me a link to the type of meter you are using. It sounds like it isn't on the right range. I might be able to advise you better. Alternatively, if it is a basic auto/battery tester which just says bad or good it won't give the information we need.

 

would either of these meters work? I went to my local bike shop and explained to them what was happening and the mechanic said it doesn't sound like the stator but it could possibly be the voltage regulater. But will either if these meters work to test it??

http://cgi.ebay.com/CASE-LOT-of-2-DIGIT ... 27af8cd553

http://cgi.ebay.com/Pocket-Digital-Mult ... 2c5348fbd9

 

Yes - as was said before, you need to measure 12 - 15 volts dc accurately. Also 0- 5 ohms for the stator winding resistances.

As far as I know, you cannot test your regulator (But you could the earlier ones). so it is a process of eleimination. If the stator checks out and the interconnecting wiring to the battery is OK then it will be the regulator

Mark

 

well crap. I'm not very good with electrical stuff lol. Maybe I should spend the $30 bucks to take my bike to the shop and have them do the testing for me

 

That might be a good idea, especially as they seem to know what they are talking about.

I work as an electrician so am happy with these sorts of faults, however I find the pure mechanical stuff harder!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XJ600-XJ ... 45f0a652c9

How about this? $14 for a regulator - if it isnt the fault, you've lost almost nothing!

 

ok I just bought that. 21.05 after shipping. Also bought me a digital multimeter from walmart today.

 

Seca2rider. Check this message from an XJ600 (Like mine) owner.
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=22180.html

My bike had the worng regulator and The later xj600 (FJ600 in the us) had a 4 terminal regulator, like yours, with a permanent magnet alternator. Read the text, as Peter says there is a 5th wire grounding the case of the regulator. Has you seca2 got this ground wire, or does the case bolt to the frame?

 

mine is like his. It has 3 white wires and 1 red one. now im stupid when it comes to electronics lol. mechanic stuff I can do but electric stuff terrifies me. On my multimeter what should I set it to to test my stator at the regulator plug?? Sorry I know this is stupid

 

You want to be on the ohms range, 0 to 5 or something like that. I think the spec is 0.5 or there abouts. Look at the alternator drawing in your manual. The windings are arranged in a "Star" formation so you have to test the star ends. Measure white wire 1 to 2, wire 2 to 3 and wire 3 to 1. All the 3 readings should be roughly the same.

Is the case of your regulator connected to the frame?

If the windings check out ok, Run the engine with the meter on the DC VOLTS range, 20 volt (Or so).

Put the test leads across the battery terminals red to + and black to -,and as the revs rise, the measured voltage should go up. No more than 15 volts.

If they dont. stop the engine, key off and set the meter back to the ohms range. Measure between the battery positive and the red wire on the regulator plug. You should get a really low reading maybe 0.2 ohms, showing the wiring is good from the regulator to the battery. If not, It could be a bad connection. If this IS good then it is the regulator at fault , and you have one on its way.
This happened to me many years ago. The Haynes manual is colour coded and should be a good help.

Hope you get on ok - as I am at GMT - my bed is calling!!!!

 

Ok so I got my bike running YAY but now the weather here is shit again grrr. so the thing im going to do next is reseal my tank. It has a bunch of crap in the bottom of it so I am taking it off today and using some old gas to get everything out of the bottom. What do yall suggest I use to clean the rust out and reseal my tank?? Something in the inexpensive range would be awesome..

 

Disclaimer: I have not tried this!
http://www.youtube.com/user/KOKKINAFEGA ... rSs8fxWqoU

This is a mechanic from Crete - he uses white spirit and normal bright zinc plated nuts (Not too big as they might damage the tank!)

Mild steel so you can fish them out with a magnet.

His varnish is about $10.

 

My tank isnt to terribly bad. Doesnt have chunks of rust in it or anything just a light coating of rust on the inside.. Could I use a paint thinner to get the rust out?