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Suggestions for popping the brake calliper piston

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Jadds, Mar 4, 2022.

  1. Jadds

    Jadds Member

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    So, I have read and read about the various ways to pop the piston in the great threads on here but I am in a spot of bother and would love some suggestions if possible. Bikes are XJ650 4K1. I have 4 sets of calipers that are old and need a rebuild. One method that I am unable to use is the existing brake fluid and lines as they had already been removed from the bike and were sitting by themselves. Compressed air is not an option either as I don't have an air compressor. I don't have a pulling tool but I do have a grease gun.
    Grease guns can generate a ton (or up to 4500psi) so should have enough but according to threads on here (and I can already imagine )will be really messy when finished. As I understand it, the bleed nipple for the caliper is designed to let air and fluid out. when fully tightened it is designed to block any fluid from escaping but when loosened a 1/4 turn will allow fluid (and air) to escape. I don't think they are designed to allow grease into the caliper but the nipple itself is a good fit. My grease gun will not thread into the caliper brake fluid line. So would I need to get an actual grease nipple of the same thread size as the bleed nipple and pump the grease through there?
     
  2. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    @Jetfixer uses a grease gun to remove pistons. He will know how to connect it. He will see this alert.
     
  3. Jadds

    Jadds Member

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  4. Jadds

    Jadds Member

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  5. bensalf

    bensalf Well-Known Member

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    i've used several methods, including the grease gun and air.
    but by far the most reliable method, and least messy, is to use the original master cylinder ,and a brake line, to push them out.
    put the master cylinder and lever, in a vice or workmate, atatch the brake line, and fill the sytstem with brake fluid and bleed a little , you dont have to bleed every last bit of air out.
    then simply push one piston out , then push it back in with a G clamp, (make sure you push it back in squarely, by putting a socket in the piston well)
    then push the opposite piston out.
    once you've got them moving, you can push one piston completely out, then use an old brake pad with a piece of rubber between and the G clamp, to seal the hole.
    then push the other piston out.
    it sounds complicated but once set up, its easy , and you can do all your calipers, the same way, at the same time.

    getting grease out of all the passageways, uses loads of brake cleaner
     
  6. Jadds

    Jadds Member

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    Hey bensalf, Thank you! Unfortunately I don't have any brake lines either. When I bought the bikes they were pretty much dismantled into a load of boxes. but no brake lines (which is good in a way as I assume they would have been the original from 40 years ago). So perhaps I should look at getting some new ones. The grease gun is not ideal I agree but it seems my only route at this point. Or I just bring them to a shop and have them worked on. But that defeats the point of me doing the rebuild :). When you have done it before did you use the bleed nipple? I am contemplating using some thread tape on the bleed nipple so it doesn't need to seat right down and has a good seal.
     
  7. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

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    I did my XJ700 with air in the bleed screw hole. Unscrewed the bleeder and used a rubber tipped air gun shoved into the hole.
     
  8. Jadds

    Jadds Member

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    I guess id need a compressor for that. Although its probably a good investment.
     
  9. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    This might work with a simple car tyre inflating compressor. Car brake caliper is bigger though.

     
  10. Jadds

    Jadds Member

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    Thanks Franz! managed to pop it using the bleed screw and a grease gun. The bleed screw just needed some cleaning to free up the bleed channel in the screw.
     
  11. Jadds

    Jadds Member

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    Any comments on the quality (or lack thereof) of the piston and bore? To my untrained eye they look like they just need a good clean. No noticeable gouges or damage.
     

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  12. Huntchuks

    Huntchuks Well-Known Member

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    Clean it first so it can be inspected.
     
  13. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Great they are out. Clean them and make sure there is no pitting and they should be good to go. Pitting can damage the new seals.
     
  14. Jadds

    Jadds Member

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    Good call. :) will do
     
  15. Jadds

    Jadds Member

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    @Franz thanks for the tip. will clean them up and have a good look.
     
  16. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Post some pictures once they are cleaned.
     
  17. Jadds

    Jadds Member

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    Affirmative
     
  18. Jadds

    Jadds Member

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    Hope these photos show the pitting on the caliper. photo 474 shows pitting on the face of the piston, 475,476,477,478 shows pitting on the sides. and 479 shows inside of caliper bore with brown crud. I don't have scrapers that can get that stuff off just yet. But I think the inside of the bore looks ok, thankfully.
     

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  19. Jadds

    Jadds Member

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    Making my own assessment...the piston needs replacing.
     
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  20. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Yes I would replace them too. Look pitted and scored in places.
     

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