Discussion in 'XJ DIY How-To Videos' started by Joshua Olkowski, Aug 2, 2018.
I'd drop the oil and inspect the clutch.
I STAND CORRECTED. It was in fact the starter motor. I bought a whole engine block off an old Maxim and have been using parts off of it so I thought, what the heck, let's swap out the starter motor. The situation has been rectified. That isn't the clincher though because changing out the starter motor also remedied another situation that has plagued me since owning this bike, IT FIXED THE CHARGING SYSTEM!! For the first time in two years the charging system responds the way it's suppose to. When I gas it you can see the needle on the voltmeter go up immediately. It's never done that. It would take a good ten seconds of building up speed before it would get to full charging output. It also STAYS at full charging output on the voltmeter while I ride where as before it would go down even after 10minutes of riding. I tried everything! I tried swapping out the rotor, stator, RR, cleaned wires, new brushes, you name it, I did it. For some reason the starter must have been constantly drawing from the battery but that would mean the starter solenoid would also have to be on too, righ? However, when I changed out the solenoid I was still having the same issue. I would love someone to explain this to me.
Hello. I'm having a little trouble trying to figure out how to replace the front left turn signal. The PO had changed it once before with a heavy metal casing one (the original Seca 550 turn signals are plastic.) I found a plastic light that looks like the original, however, it looks like it might have a different wire set up. The one on my bike that I'm replacing (the metal one) has three wires coming out of it one of which looks like a ground that connects to the screw that holds the socket housing and the other one I found only has two, one of which connects to a metal ring that lies at the base of the spring inside the socket housing. I decided to hook it up the way it's already done on my bike and the funny thing is is that it works as a signal light but it doesn't turn on with the key. Seca 550 has running signal lights. Is it possible that the metal light acted as ground and so that's why the wiring set up isn't working with the plastic?
should only be 2 wires ground and hot. 3 wire light you are describing a light that has a dual filament bulb and has a light on as a running light
seca 550 does not have running lights single filament bulb.
there are "spare" hots and grounds in the bucket for a bike with a faring
Well this is kind of interesting because all four of my indicator lights turn on when I turn the key.
if there is 3 wires you have a dual filiment buld on the holder . could be someone wanted more visibility (to be seen) at night and put them on from another bike .
got a photo?
do they stay solid and also flash?
I mod most of my bikes for all running lights just for car to see me. I think it helps but to each their own.
Do you have a multi/volt meter? A 12 VDC test light? Using those to test the wires running to each light will tell you if you have just turn lights or running lights. As stated above if you have three (3) wires running to each light, you can bet it has been modded.
First I should say that all four lights are not running lights just the front two and yes they have been modded. I figured it all out and Im good to go. The bulb is a dual filament bulb. I'm curious about these extra spare hots and grounds in the bucket. Do all XJ's have these?
yes they are for when you put a cowling on the front
you should pick up that 81 you know of for parts
Happy 2020. Nice to be back on here. I finally found all the pieces to the exhaust and waiting on new gaskets. I've been using an old 4 into 1 Kerker and I'm curious how the bike is going to perform with the original exhaust. Having said that, when installing the muffler gaskets is there anything special like including a sealant or something of that nature that I should know about?
If your bike was setup for a 4-1 and now you are going back to a stock set up, you have to wonder a few things. Have you looked at the main jets to see if they are stock? Has the air box been modified for the 4-1? As long as it is all stock you should be good.
Everything is stock so not worried there but now I'm curious if I should have modified things for the Kerker.
A color tune will tell you what is going on inside each cylinder. That and when you take it out if it runs out of throttle or backfires when you let off the throttle. These signs should tell you that it is either too lean, needs to have bigger jets or the fuel level is wrong and starving the engine at WOT. Many posts on how to adjust your carbs for 4-1 exhaust, opening up air box or even changing the air filter. That is if you want the bike to run the best it can. If you are just into riding her and can deal with some of those issues, ride and have fun.
color tune is good for seting mixture and the pilott jet circuit. the instructions say you can rev it up for a brief time to see the main jets.
just pull your spark plugs and see what they look like
I'm not sure what you mean by running out of throttle but the only issue I had with the throttle is that it would sometimes just not go when I'd take off in first. But quickly releasing the throttle and opening it up again solved that and I just got use to doing that. The spark plugs look great. No sign of rich or lean mixture at all.