Valve Shim woes

Ok, so I got my parts shipment early this afternoon (Kudos to Chacal for the prompt shipment!) and decided to get started on adjusting the valves.

The valve bucket hold down tool took a little getting used to, but once I did I was able to get it lined up every time on the first try. Combining that with BigFitz's idea of using a Hemostat (aka Fisherman's Forceps), and I was making pretty good progress for my first time through this process.

I was having a little difficulty with the Intake valve shim on #3, when it popped out, skittered along the engine along the timing chain guide, hit the front cam, flipped sideways and disappeared into the engine next to the front cam sprocket. 8O

Short of completely tearing the engine apart or turning the bike over and shaking it (ala piggy bank style), I have no idea how to find it and get it back out.

Anyone have any ideas on how to get that shim out?

 

Long magnetic tool. Lots of prayer. Hold your lip just right. And then take off the oil pan if none of that works (which means removing he exhaust, etc..).


In other words, bummer dude!

 

If he uses a magnetic tool, should he toss the shim if he catches it? I read somewhere here that magnetized shims are bad news.

 

unfortunately, yes. It should have gone straight down; one of those things that looks like an old fashioned car antenna with a magnet on the end will probably do the trick. If you're lucky it hung on the side of the camchain about halfway down and didn't drop into the sump. Go easy and don't turn the motor over.

 

Bigfitz, I picked up one of those retractable magnetic pickup tools and (of course) the magnetic end is too large to fit into the cavity. I'll have to see if my local Sears/Ace/etc has one with a smaller pickup head.

I figured that if the cam lobe hitting the bucket tool could crack the head, I didn't want to think what could happen if I turned the motor over with that shim floating around in the engine...I do actually want to ride this bike again at some point, so no worry about that engine turning until I get that shim out.

Yes, magnetized shims are bad. In this case though, all of my shims are noticeably out of spec will be getting replaced.

If it means removing the exhaust to get at it v.s. pulling out and tearing the engine down completely, I think I can live with that.



Thanks for the ideas so far guys. If you come up with any more, by all means let me know.

 

Kyrrin, I was in a NAPA parts store a few yearts ago and they had a "magnetic valve shim retrieval tool" with interchangeable magnets. From smaller than a pencil to over an inch in diameter. Google 'magnetic pick up tool'. And see if that helps.

Good luck!

 

May have found the answer for you. Lowes has a "probe and hook" set, 13 pc, in theirb Kobalt tool line. There is a retractible magnet that has a diameter less than that of a pencil.

 

OK. It's out....Y255

Magnetic pickup tool (different one with a smaller magnetic tip) - didn't work...

Drop the oil pan - didn't work...

Here' how far I had to tear down the engine before I could get to it with the magnetic pickup tool...

Needless to say, I'll be ordering some new oil pan and cylinder head gaskets from Chacal shortly (they're not supposed to be crunchy, are they...?)

Word to the inexperienced (and seasoned as well) - when it comes to changing the valve shims, block off the cam chain passage with a rag or paper towel to prevent having to tear the engine apart to find a stray shim...

 

Actually might have been easier to turn the bike upside down and hake it!

Bummer. At least it's done. And just think about all the new, exciting things you've learned about 550 engines during the process.....

Just curious....why didn't the magnetic p/u tool work?

 

If I could have, I probably would have piggy banked it :lol:

The pickup tool kept trying to grab the chain and wouldn't let me get the end deep enough into the engine to find the shim

 

I can relate to this suffering. This happened to me too. It happened just after I reassembled my engine for the SECOND time, after totally reassembling the engine the first time only to have to tear it down again due to an improper oil sleeve and a huge leaky mess when I fired it up (see post "Learn to Suffer". But I only got it out by pushing it past the crank into the sump, and removing the bottom cover - luckily the exhaust was already off the second time. A meat skewer with a magnet end attached didn't work for me either - same reason - it stuck to the cam chain.

 

Ouch Kyrr... Nice reminder to be extra careful and take preventative measures.

 

Where did the shim end up if it didn't fall into the sump? I'm just curious, glad you got it out without FURTHER teardown.

 

It ended up inside the crankcase, along the front edge where the #2 piston counterweight would pass by. (Pistons #2 and #3 were at BDC, with #1 and #4 at TDC so the #2 and #3 counterweights were up). I could not see it at all, and it was not in the sump - I was on my back with the pan off feeling around blindly with my fingers and was just able to stick my finger in far enough to "find" it and then slowly slide it out.

 

Fitz, it ended up all the way down at the bottom of the front cam chain tensioner, on the left side of the bottom sprocket.

Since I refused to turn the motor for fear of causing damage to it, the shim didn't get any closer to the sump. Even with pulling the oil pan off, I wouldn't have been able to reach in and get it like 4nik8r did, as it was too far forward in the engine.

Suffice to say, I now have have a magnetic pickup tool in both my "indoor" (home repair/maintenance/remodeling) and "garage" (vehicle maintenance/repair) toolboxes because of this experience.