want to confirm next steps after smelling gas from oil filler opening

To be fair, I should also add, that this could be in my head. I'm a big guy and have been riding a 1300 V-Star. The 650Seca is a big difference in every way imaginable (size, weight, power, handling, RPMs, loudness, ride position, etc.).

That said, I tend to pick up on things like this (car or bike) and I believe there was a difference in how it performed from a stop between the start of my commute and the end of it.

 

One other possible thing is the clutch could slip especially if you had put synthetic oil in ...with a worn clutch this could show up as not having as much ump .

 

I've been sticking with conventional 4-stroke motorcycle oil. Any suggestions as to how to go about testing the clutch?

 

If the clutch is adjusted correctly, engine side first, then lever, it will NOT slip under load, unless your oil is really out of spec, clutch plates, springs are worn

 

I have never taken the clutch cable off. I did adjust the cable yesterday to make sure I had the play in the clutch handle stated in the manual.

I'm about to leave work and fire it up again, so we'll see how it goes.

 

OK. I noticed two things:

First, with enrichment circuit on, it didn’t start at the push of a button. I tri d a couple of time and then I gave a small twist of the throttle and it started and stayed running.

Second, when I took off from the parking lot, the clutch seemed to grab better than I remember this morning. However, I don’t really feel the “friction zone” until almost the end of releasing the clutch lever. Once moving, I never notice any slipping or loss of power. Just a lack of “grab” when getting started.

 

when my clutch was going it slipped at 5K under load, starting out hard never seemed to bother it.
if Hogfiddles did the carbs, he might set them a little rich and that's better than lean, talk to him about that.
but anyhow it's close so don't go far adjusting them, figure from 12:00 to 1:00 for leaner or 12:00 to 11:00 for richer

 

Loosen the adjustment at the lever end, then adjust the engine end, first, you want about 3-4 mm of play before the plates start to lift/disengage , but this is also a very personal option.....

How many miles?

Was she stored, for a long time, plates could be sticking, hard to wear out the clutches on these >45,000 miles, all things considered normal operating parameters!!

 

I took up all the slack I could at the engine end. I'm in the middle of the lever-end adjuster with about 2 mm of play. I can add a couple more. I've also put a new clutch cable on the shopping list.

Maybe what I'm experiencing is normal, but it's very different compared to the fuel injected V-Star 1300 I've been riding. With the lever squeezed in, I only feel the friction in the last 20mm of the lever. So, when starting out, there's not a very large friction zone to use. This is in contrast with the larger amount of throttle twist needed.

22,000+

Several long rides at the end of the 2016 season. One spin on the highway on a warm day in February 2017. On the center stand since then, until this past weekend.

 

I don't believe my issue is clutch. I believe it is idle mixture.

I took a long ride on the highway and spent some time in a flat parking lot, paying attention to clutch engagement and acceleration responsiveness. while standing still, I can feel the clutch engage earlier in the lever than I thought. But, I need more throttle than I would have think to keep it from dying. Notably, once rolling, it feels a bit sluggish until I near 3000 RPMs. Based on my reading, that's when the main circuit starts taking over from the pilot circuit, leading me to think idle mixture.

 

go back to the parking lot with a screwdriver, try again like it is then turn your mixture screws from 12:00 to 1:00 and try it again

 

1. Just curious..... what does it do if you remove the air filter?

2. If you need me to go back in and double-check or look anything over, I will.

3. Have you checked the balance again?

Dave F

 

Dave, just out of curiosity, where do you usually leave the mixture screws set?

 

For the 650/750 hitachis I set them at 2.5 turns out plus 1/8 additional turn.

 

@Polock, @hogfiddles, I'll check everything out Thursday evening and post results back here.

 

OK. I've had the chance to get a variety of rides in and pay closer attention to how the bike is acting.

First, starting. It very seldom starts with a simple push of the button, usually requiring a twist of the throttle. It happens whether the bike is hot or cold. I can live with it for now, but I'll keep working on it.

Next, bogging down when taking off from a standstill. I'm about 90% certain this is in my head. As I've gotten more used to this bike's higher RPMs it's been less of an issue.

After I get back from Sturgis, I'll tackle the next two issues. When turning at very low speed, the bike REALLY wants to turn. At speed or when going straight, it tracks incredibly well, but a low speed turn it feels almost instable.

Also, I hear a clunk from the front end when I go over a bump.

I'll start with bearings and forks.

Thanks again, everyone.

 

It's time to start planning the front end work. I don't have a heated workplace, so I'll start with research and getting the parts. I'll be ordering the tapered bearing kit and performance fork kit fromXJ4Ever and I'll contact Len directly for parts and advice. But, I also wanted to get input from others on my forks.

I seem to have an aftermarket air-assist kit (see photo). The other fork has the same setup and you can see a small tube running between them. To make it fit, the fork top is about a 1 cm proud. I'm not committed to keeping them or getting rid of them and wanted to hear from the experts.

Are these common? Should I keep them?

 

I've not seen a set like that. Being able to adjust the air spring is a good thing. Unless you plan on upgrading to a modern fork, I'd keep them.

 

I should also ask, if I keep them, what should the pressure be?

 

The only thing I have to go by is the specs for the 750. Start with 6 PSI and increase to your liking. Maximum is 17 PSI. More air for more load.

 

What is that copper tube..........is that the air line? That sure looks fragile.......

 

It’s a rubber or plastic line and I believe it’s the air line. It’s the only connection between the 2 sides. I’ll have to see about making a replacement if I break it removing everything.

 

It looks to me like it simply ties the two air chambers together to achieve equal pressure in both tubes easily perhaps?

 

That would be what it does. Same system as on the factory Maxim air forks. Makes setting the air pressure a much less teduous affair.

 

It is a bit tedious to set both tubes to the same exact pressure on my 82 650 maxim. Luckily I have a low pressure gauge that goes in 1/4 lb. increments, so that helps some. Have to take into account what pressure you lose when you take the gauge off too.

 

that looks like a aluminum fitting with a copper line, so there is really no way to attach them but push it in and goober it up.
the 7psi is at rest, who knows how high it goes with compressed forks, if it leaks you could end up with negative pressure

 

Before I order parts, @chacal wisely suggested I double check that these are the right forks. They have the dual disc brakes. The calipers and replacement rotors fit perfectly. And, they match the forks on the other Seca in the corner. But, taking a belt-and-suspenders approach to maintenance, I thought I'd ask the audience.

 

They look correct to me.
There is a casting number on the inboard side of each fork lower.

 

Well- the 650rj was not air-assist forks. So either:
1. Somebody drilled and added thise hideous homemade things

Or

2. The fork tubes have been swapped out for air-assist ones, and someone added those hideous homemade things

Or

3. Etc....

 

My suspicion is that an amateur machinist made them as a project. The finish on the part that the schrader valve connects to is not of production quality, and the OEM fork caps have been used as the base for the system.

If it were a aftermarket set it would be far more efficient to make one-peice caps that replace the OEM parts entirely (really it'd be better to do that in a home shop as well).

 

The 650rj has plain fork ends, are not air-assist, and have plain black rubber cap that plugs into the top of the fork