First and foremost, I have attempted to search through our forums for similar scenarios and want some extra input on things to test and protocols to follow for my newer bike. I've never tested a solenoid before or dived into electronics but I've got my Clymer manual ready to jump on any suggestions. I recently pulled and cleaned the carburetors on the bike - before I did this, the bike would start, but it had issues idling - thus the carb clean/rebuild. I suspect that I jarred something loose or messed with a ground on accident when reassembling the bike. Not sure what else could have happened. Maybe one of the safeties is gunked? Here's what I know: 1. Before the carbs were pulled and rebuilt, I had recently replaced the old starter with a brand new starter from XJ4Ever. 2. I disconnected only the negative lead on the battery while working on the carbs - and left the positive connected to the wiring harness/solenoid. I am daft when it comes to electronics/wiring - I am assuming there is no issue with this? No chance for 'frying' the solenoid while I was working off the bike? 3. Brand new battery + charged to 12.5-12.6v reading from multimeter 4. Have not pulled the solenoid to see if anything has changed there, not sure how it could if it was just sitting there. 5. Fusebox is still original and held together pretty poorly (was hoping to fix one thing at a time, checking to make sure the bike runs before carrying on) - will be replacing with new fuse system from XJ4ever (Thanks Chacal!) Currently, the ignition fused is literally held together with a bread-tie from the PO. I think this MIGHT be the culprit but wanted to seek advice before squirreling around in the bike. From what I've read, there are 3 safeties on my Seca - Clutch, side stand, and neutral switch, correct? Assuming I should check those first? The bike is getting power and allows for signals/lights to work, neutral switch is on, tried all matters of clutch in/out while attempt to press the starter button but nothing happens. Not even a single click from the solenoid now. Fuse situation is really calling to me because one of the metal holders for the old glass tube fuse is literally held on by a thread of metal. I'm assuming if the fuse connection is poor, the bike won't even close the circuit to attempt to start, right? Thanks guys.