XJ550 Seca - Ignition Issues (No Solenoid Clicks)

First and foremost, I have attempted to search through our forums for similar scenarios and want some extra input on things to test and protocols to follow for my newer bike. I've never tested a solenoid before or dived into electronics but I've got my Clymer manual ready to jump on any suggestions.

I recently pulled and cleaned the carburetors on the bike - before I did this, the bike would start, but it had issues idling - thus the carb clean/rebuild. I suspect that I jarred something loose or messed with a ground on accident when reassembling the bike. Not sure what else could have happened. Maybe one of the safeties is gunked?

Here's what I know:
1. Before the carbs were pulled and rebuilt, I had recently replaced the old starter with a brand new starter from XJ4Ever.
2. I disconnected only the negative lead on the battery while working on the carbs - and left the positive connected to the wiring harness/solenoid. I am daft when it comes to electronics/wiring - I am assuming there is no issue with this? No chance for 'frying' the solenoid while I was working off the bike?
3. Brand new battery + charged to 12.5-12.6v reading from multimeter
4. Have not pulled the solenoid to see if anything has changed there, not sure how it could if it was just sitting there.
5. Fusebox is still original and held together pretty poorly (was hoping to fix one thing at a time, checking to make sure the bike runs before carrying on) - will be replacing with new fuse system from XJ4ever (Thanks Chacal!) Currently, the ignition fused is literally held together with a bread-tie from the PO. I think this MIGHT be the culprit but wanted to seek advice before squirreling around in the bike.


From what I've read, there are 3 safeties on my Seca - Clutch, side stand, and neutral switch, correct? Assuming I should check those first?

The bike is getting power and allows for signals/lights to work, neutral switch is on, tried all matters of clutch in/out while attempt to press the starter button but nothing happens. Not even a single click from the solenoid now.

Fuse situation is really calling to me because one of the metal holders for the old glass tube fuse is literally held on by a thread of metal. I'm assuming if the fuse connection is poor, the bike won't even close the circuit to attempt to start, right?

Thanks guys.

 

get a cheap inline fuse holder and replace the ignition fuse set up with that for now . ignition fuse controls starting system.

to test the sidestand relay disconnect the black/white wire at the tci it has a bullet connetor about 3 inches from tci or just pull the sidestand relay under seat.

run/kill switch in on position?

bike in neutral does neutral light come on?

onto solinoid. if everything is working properly in ignition circuit (safety switches) and pushing button does not turn starter, do you hear solinoid clicking?
does oil light come on when pressing starter button? if it does you know your button works.
starter button grounds through bars if yours are painted it will cause issues.

unplug the 2 wire connector to tci.
on the main harness connector

put meter probe to red/white wire and ground. you should see 12 volts with key on .
put meter probe to blue wire and positive on battery press starter button you should see 12 volts.

next measure ohms to soilnoid at the solinoid connector.

if you have that voltage
make sure battery and starter connections to solinoid are clean and tight.
with starter cable removed
plug solinoid in with meter on starter cable side and battery press starter button see if you have 12 volts.
if you do not solinoid contacts may be bad.

reconnect starter cable jump with an old screw driver across the 2 nuts this should spin starter

bad clutch switch will stop bike from starting in gear

 

on another note under gas tank aside of ignition coils is the connector for your right control. make sure it is clean and tight or bike will not start or turn over .
I have 3 550s and all 3 had an issue with this connector being lose . push wires into connector as well

 

Gives me a really good starting point. Appreciate it.

Before I start these tests, I do know neutral light comes on but oil light doesn't light up when pressing switch. I'll pull the assembly and check that the button still works. Connections all look clean and tight on the solenoid itself, which are housed under rubber covers. Should I just go ahead and replace the entire fuse box with the new unit I received? Seems like I'd be diagnosing electrical issues anyways once it's put into place. Received it from Chacal last week.

Sorry, just to clarify - when you say pull the starter cable, what are you meaning exactly? Disconnect the cable at the starter itself? Apologies, as I mentioned - I'm fairly daft when it comes to electronics and I'm teaching myself along the way.

 

Pulled the tank to check the connection and it seemed tight and fitted correctly. When it comes to cleaning those, what is the protocol? Never actually cleaned wiring/electronics before - and the the fact that the wires are housed in those plastic connectors makes it confusing for a newbie like me to understand how I should clean those.

 

electronic contact spray cleaner will clean up oxides and diry old grease
use a little dielectric grease to protect connectors when reassembled.

make sure wires are fully inserted into connectors before and after reassembly.

just as a rule/guideline any connector you take apart you clean before reassembly when you have some down time clean a few more.

it is most important that the fuse is solid in its connections so it will let amps flow throught it. inline blade fuse holder is under 5$ and is the heart of the ignition power supply.

 

this is a 20 amp fuse holder just under 5$ the red wire fuse hold er is for glass fuses and also 20 amp rated about 2$ good for a tempory fix

 

if oil light does not light up you eathier have a bad bulb or your starter button is not working /grounding may need cleaning.
of course if you are not getting 12 volts to red/white wire at solinoid the button has nothing to work with to make bulb light.
this function is a bulb test.

if you have the new fuse box put it in

starter cable is the black cable that runs from solinoid nut pull that connection and clean it up and solinoid nut . thought I had a bad solinoid untill i cleaned both of those cables attached to nuts
odd that it is black but that was yamahas little joke

 

Yes, the oil light not illuminating indicates either a bad starter switch / wiring or no ignition power (bad fuse box)

Neutral light is signal fuse

 

Update for future reference on any searches:

I went ahead and replaced the original fuse box with Chacals upgrade kit - and the bikes starter is now engaging. Seems to be the ignition fuse was at fault on the original block, as one of the metal blades was severely worn.

So, thankfully all is well in that regard! Now - onto the harder part.. making bike actually start and idle after its resurrection!!

thanks all.

 

And BEFORE you even think about riding it: https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/...r-brake-bike-owners-please-take-a-look.15874/

You absolutely have to take it apart and look, you cannot go by how the brake feels or seems to work.