XJ700 Maxim doesn't start

I'll probably end up working on it later tonight. I just stopped and got some gas and more oil for it because I doubt the guy added fresh oil if he hadn't ridden it in a few years.
And to answer your question it is the terminal that is broken, not the cable connector. There is a hole in each terminal that a bolt goes into and the has a screw at the bottom so you attach the connector to the terminal type thing. It looks like someone just ripped the bolt out of the negative terminal so it's only a half loop or open hole and not a full loop or closed hole terminal. That's the best I can describe it. Would a picture be better?

 

photo would help.
is the square/rectangle nut still there?

 

let me know if that worked and you can see it. I'm not sure how to put the picture up...

 

there it is again. I hope this one loaded this time

 

considering age of battery and that damage I would replace the battery. there may be internal damage.

 

Sooooooo we might have a problem....
Just went to drain the old oil and put in some new oil. First off, that oil came out like a bat out of hell! Second, it didn't have the consistency of oil at all....it was dark like oil, and slippery like oil on the ground, but almost smelt a little like gasoline. That, and there was over a gallon of fluid in there...What do I do? Is that normal? Should I just fill it up and see what happens? Please send help!!!

 

just add new oil you have a fuel and oil mix happens all the time .

what you have to do next is find out why you were full of oil and gas.

most likely reason is float valves failed in carbs time to remove carbs and clean them.

you may want to change the filter .
once the bike runs put some seafoam in the oil and run it for a few miles drain oil and add new filter.
you have a lot of work ahead of you
so now it is time to make a plan budget and time line.

for me it is motor running first
and doing all the "free things"


The Information Overload Hour

IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN

 

That's the plan is to get all the free things going so I can get it running and then do the fine tuning and cosmetic and little things later. Okay, I'm glad it's a semi common thing. That makes me feel a lot better.
I'll go fill it with oil and put in the new filter and add some gas and try to get it to turn over. The guy I bough tit from said that he did some work on the carbs and even ran them through an ultrasonic so I will do that later and just trust that he set it up right. If not, I'm fine doing carb work. that stuff doesn't bother me.

 

you can turn over the bike without fuel. if carbs are leaking oil will become contaminated again.

remove and inspect air filter. you can spray some starter fluid into the air box and see if the bike starts it will run for a few seconds

I had 2 rescues with full crank cases at least your rings should not be stuck

the first thing to decide is a budget or in for a penny in for a pound.
then what I do is get the valve clearances in spec.
then compression test.
next remove carbs to rebuild and clean.

free things is cleaning connectors and connections you will need crocus cloth electronic spray cleaner and dielectric grease.
controls will need a little internal cleaning and some silicone spray to lube them.
ignition switch
Clean and lube the ignition switch
gas cap
Your Gas Cap and You​

 

I would remove the carbs and bench inspect them and test them off the bike to see if they leak (they will) before filling them up on bike. how does the fuel tank look inside any/much rust?

 

There is some rust in the tank but not a ton. Not enough that I would be worried about it or anything. Just spots here and there. Normal.

 

It doesn't have an air filter. It has pods on it.
What should I do for that?
Just take off the carb all together and check for leaks with it off?

 

remove pods and give it the starter fluid test.

try to find an air box for bike.

remove the carbs open the bowls and inspect them.
you should clean them make sure the wells in the bowl bodies are clear so that the enrichment tubes can pick up fuel.

when using starter fluid do not have pods on bike the pods tend to go up in flames if you get a back fire. buy a fire extinguisher keep it handy when ever you work with solvents and gasoline could save your bike home and life.

 

Note taken. I'll go take them off and check it out and then see if it is the battery terminal, the starter relay or the starter solenoid that is causing it to not start.

 

What should I look for in the carbs that would make fuel run into the engine oil?

 

the float needles are what meters fuel into the carbs could be stuck open or crapped up .
they are what fills your crank with gas you will /should replace them

read the church of clean before and during dissembly you will need a JIS screw driver for the screws if you have an inpact driver those bits work well

 

video to watch
https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/dry-and-wet-set-fuel-levels.123053/#post-623371

 

Okay, so here's an update. Took the carb apart and it was awful! soaked up and then scrubbed it down with a wire brush and removed all the jets and tubes and everything. Got it squeaky clean!
So I put in a little bit of gas and it holds it well! Also adjusted the floats and the last person to do it put one of the floats on upside down....So I tried to hook it up to test the starter and everything and I believe I hooked it up correct. One to the engine and one to the red lead connected to the solenoid. And I got nothing....I go more of a click when I reattached the terminals and just tried jumping it like normal. It sounds like its clicking from the solenoid but I don't know if that means anything?
Where else can I try to hook it up and test it?
I want to say that I don't think it would be the starter or the starter switch because it's trying to start and it clicks, it just doesn't turn over.

 

Just kidding! It's leaking!!! right out of the bottom of the exhaust. What could it be? I thought I set the floats correctly...

 

You used the old float needles.
You can't halfway-refurbish old carbs, especially after they've sat for so long and been messed with by a PO. Do it all.
IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN
Cleaning your Mikuni carbs
Why you should replace butterfly (throttle shaft) seals.
Replacing your Hitachi throttle shaft seals (same is true for the Mikiuni carbs and the procedure is almost the same)

Setting the fuel levels