1. Hello Guest. You have limited privileges and you can't "SEARCH" the forums. Please "Log In" or "Sign Up" for additional functionality. Click HERE to proceed.

XJ750J Refurb

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by turpentyne, Jul 5, 2018.

  1. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

    Messages:
    17,451
    Likes Received:
    5,495
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    City of Seven Hills
    That should be the neutral switch. The oil level switch is further back on the pan, more toward the center. The oil level switch has a pigtail coming out of it, where the neutral switch just has a single wire attached by a crosshead JIS screw.
    Degrease it and find the weeping oil.
    The exhaust collector has to be removed in order to get the sensor out.
    The collector is difficult to remove with the headers still in place, and pretty impossible to remove separately if it's been on long enough for rust to build up around the gaskets.
     
  2. turpentyne

    turpentyne Active Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    100
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Desert SW
    hmm... Too bright out now, I think, to get a good look now. Couldn’t spot it. I’ll have wait til dark and try with a flashlight. Maybe i figure out which wire and trace it down to the pigtail.
     
  3. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    10,621
    Likes Received:
    2,918
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Great North Woods
    do easy first replace the crush washer just a couple of bucke
    the neutral switch can be removed with a special socket with exhaust in place
     
  4. turpentyne

    turpentyne Active Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    100
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Desert SW
    Yeah, I think that's the approach I'll take now. I've moved on to a starter rebuild.

    But... tell me more about this special tool for the neutral switch? I don't need to bother with it now, but I'm curious about adding that tool to my arsenal!
     
  5. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

    Messages:
    10,621
    Likes Received:
    2,918
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Great North Woods
    it is a socket that has been cut away on the sides to fit into the cramped space
    xj4ever sells them
    Neutral Switch Tools:

    HCP15718 Aftermarket neutral position switch REMOVAL SOCKET. On many models, it's almost a physical impossibility to remove the neutral switch from the crankcase "well" without removing the exhaust system or removing the engine from the frame.....the left lower frame tube conspires with the exhaust system to make it unbelievably difficult to access the switch. This special "open side" socket is the proper size to squirm through those restricted spaces and make it possible to remove and re-install the position switch without going through a tremendous amount of effort. Standard 1/4" drive socket should be used with a 3" extension bar, or, it's even easier to use when attached to the HCP13516 flexible shaft driver listed below.


    HCP13516 Aftermarket flexible "spring shaft" 1/4" SOCKET DRIVER TOOL, just the thing to use with the HCP15718 socket above to reach the neutral switch. Large plastic handle with 6" long flexible shaft.
     
  6. turpentyne

    turpentyne Active Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    100
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Desert SW
    I spent a little time cleaning up/dielectric greasing a few connections on the bike today, and I'm curious about a couple things around the regulator/rectifier area:

    You can see in the photo below, there's a relay (ignition? brake switch?) zip-tied to the frame. I haven't found yet in the manuals where that originally should go. Also, I noticed that the plastic plate that the regulator/rectifier are mounted to only has one screw, where it attaches to the old chain & lock cubby hole. It's got the frame clips up top... but the way that thing shifts back and forth, I wonder if there's another anchor point that it's supposed to have? Not seeing one, but I figured I'd ask.


    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2018
  7. turpentyne

    turpentyne Active Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    100
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Desert SW
    oh...maybe that's the starter circuit cut-off relay? oh.. damn. nope. That's under the tank. ok... still stumped.
     
  8. Toomanybikes

    Toomanybikes Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,428
    Likes Received:
    645
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Tsawwassen bc
    90D6DEC5-D217-4E45-89FA-B30A63CCBB38.jpeg It would have had a rubber holder that goes on this peg
     
  9. turpentyne

    turpentyne Active Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    100
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Desert SW
  10. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

    Messages:
    7,982
    Likes Received:
    1,219
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    At My Computer
    The 4U8 is the sidestand relay, it should have a spot of blue paint on the latching tab.

    HCP11105 Aftermarket rubber RELAY HOLDER for original metal-lid "cube" type safety system, headlight, sidestand, fuel pump, etc. relays. This grommet has a square opening (it's a copy of the original grommet), and molded of a thick-wall rubber compound. NOTE: does not fit the later style plastic-lid cube relays. Each:
     
  11. turpentyne

    turpentyne Active Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    100
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Desert SW
    Hah! I made the assumption you wouldn't have those... Silly me!

    On a side note, mine definitely has the blue mark, but I swear it says 4U6-00.. I've looked at so many angles trying to see if it's an 8 with the number scuffed, but it very much looks like a 6.
     
  12. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

    Messages:
    7,982
    Likes Received:
    1,219
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    At My Computer
    Gotta be an 8.........there are no 4U6 relays. Time for new glasses! :)
     
  13. turpentyne

    turpentyne Active Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    100
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Desert SW
    I've pulled the clutch cover and taken out the plates. I'm looking at the basket wear, and .... hmmm... I think its ok with a little smoothing, but maybe not? On a few spots, I can feel the wear edges by running my fingernail along each rib. Maybe not all of them, but definitely a few.

    I want to get more experienced opinions. I'm not sure that'll smooth out with just a scotchbrite. Maybe I'm being overly cautious. Dare I file on those edges a little and suck out the filings & dust?

    Here are some pictures, as best I could manage. Not sure if they'll give a good idea of the wear. The outer basket seems ok at first glance. It's the inner basket I'm a little concerned about.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2018
  14. turpentyne

    turpentyne Active Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    100
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Desert SW
    While I'm waiting for an oilstone to come in the mail so I can clean up the baskets... I've found a mystery washer.

    Walked up to the work table this morning, and saw this little washer sittin' there lookin up at me, all lonely-like. No idea where it came from. The only recent parts on the table have been the starter and the Clutch cover + clutch pressure plate. And I don't think it goes to any of those things. oh, and I rebuilt the gas cap. I know it's not the washer that goes in there, because I've got video of myself putting it back. But that is close to what it looks like

    Figured I'd see if somebody recognized it before I chalked it up to mischievous ghosts trying to confuse me.

    this thing:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2018
  15. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,251
    Likes Received:
    937
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Nothern Indiana
    Looks like a crush washer from oil drain plug? Or a brake line crush washer ?
     
  16. turpentyne

    turpentyne Active Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    100
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Desert SW
    I think that's just the lighting and the gunk on the washer. it's steel. I should've cleaned it before the photo instead of after. At least I'm feeling a little more like it's not some essential part trying to escape.
     
  17. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

    Messages:
    7,982
    Likes Received:
    1,219
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    At My Computer
    Spacer washer for the armature shaft in the starter motor?

    If you had specific dimensions (ID, OD, thickness, material) that might help to identify it.
     
    cgutz likes this.
  18. turpentyne

    turpentyne Active Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    100
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Desert SW
    ok - I'll get dimensions when I'm home tonight. Is there another one, aside from the 'thin' washer and 'thick' washer that are on the armature? Maybe I didn't notice a 3rd washer?
     
  19. turpentyne

    turpentyne Active Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    100
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Desert SW
    Ok.. dimensions for my mystery washer.

    Outer diameter = 17.3mm
    Inner diameter = 11.9mm
    Thickness = 1mm

    I’m pretty sure it’s steel.
     
  20. turpentyne

    turpentyne Active Member

    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    100
    Trophy Points:
    43
    Location:
    Desert SW
    So... I threw together a video of replacing my steering head bearing... but I wouldn't call it my best work... at all.

    I can't bring myself to put it in the 'how-to videos' section. Maybe y'all can get a laugh out of it and decide for yourselves?

     
    Jetfixer likes this.

Share This Page