Your Carbs NEED to go CLUNK!!!

5,000 rpm's means that you have Throttles involved. To make 5-Grand the Engine needs Main Jet Fuel.

A stuck Diaphragm would "Open the Gate" to letting Main Get Fuel race the Engine, ...

But, ... there would also NEED to have AIR along with that Fuel.
<><><><><><><><>

The most Common issues causing High RPM after a Carb Job.
>) Bench Sync done with too large a feeler.
>) Linkages fouled by Clamps.

>>) Carb Rack Cable Attachment Point JAMMED-UP under the back of the Head.

 

makes sence rick. but after i shut the bike off, i hit the carbs with my hand a few times and it starts up and runs good. so im sure the only thing i can dislodge would have to be the floats or the slides, am i right?

 

You can Burnish (maybe even polish) the Carb Bores without removing the Carbs.

Remove the Tank
Remove the Carb Hats.
Take-out the Springs and Piston Assys.

ScotchBrite Pads:
3/4" Wide Strips

Gray - Medium #7446* - "Scrub & Clean"
Scrub Bores completely clean.

White - Super Fine #7445** - "Finish"

*Gray / Hardware Store

**White / Order or AutoBody Supply

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-0004 ... B002KI94Y8

 

nnnnnnnniiiiiiiiiiiccccccccccccceeeeeeeeeee! what about material falling into the carbs? do these type of pads not leave alot of stuff left over?

 

Actually, ... they don't.

They don't crumble.
You can only use a strip slightly wider than your finger.
Inert.
Non-metallic.

Lean on the White ScotchBrite and you'll get great results.
After you do the White ScotchBrite ...
You can to Old Tee-Shirt and Polishing Compound.

I use a DREMEL Tool.
I Cut ScotchBrite Wafer Discs out of the sheet.
I made a Cookie-Cutter Disc Maker by Sharpening BOTH the Inside and Outside Diameters of a stripped 19mm Socket.

7 ScotchBrite Discs will fit on a DREMEL Sanding Drum Mandrill.
You place a Mini-Flat Washer and an EXTERNAL Star Washer on the Dremem Bit.
Force ... 7 ScotchBrite Wafers on the Mandrill
Fasten them on with the Screw, Flat Washer and External Star Washer fitted to hold the Wafers from not spinning free and you have a Marvelous Cleaning Tool.

 

wow im loving it, ill let you know how the cleaning goes. i feel like i should have to pay for this kinda help, you guys are awesome help

 

Rick: After we polishes everything, would we vacume or blow everything out of the carbs?

 

Vacuum.
Be careful not to draw fuel from the Emulsion Tube.

There shouldn't be much in the way of anything to vacuum.
The Oxidation film gets into the Pad.
The Pad doesn't really "Break-down"or disintegrate.

Cut a New Strip of ScotchBrite as the scrubbing picks-up the film.

(L) :: ScotchBrite Scrub :: (M) Dremel Polish :: (R) Polished Bore

 

Thanks

 

status update:
i made sure all the slides "go clunk" and they all did perfectly. but, i had one needle sticking inside the slide body so i sanded alittle bit of that plastic plug deal off and the needle would then slide in and out of the housing nicely. ok i though that would do it. so i put it together and went to start it, first off the bike wont start on the first try, ever. i have to hit it with starter fluid to get it to bog to life, but after that it will start nicely on its own. and i still have the same exact problem the bike revs and wont let go. so while its running like crazy i hit the carbs and it goes away! i can do this over and over again. but if i only use about a quarter throttle to rev the bike the revs will fall back down again, its only if i use more than that, like half throttle. what am i missing?

 

Search for articles on:

Enrichment Circuit

The Cold Start Mechanism for this Engine is NOT a Choke.
It's an Enrichment System.

The Enrichment System begins with the Siphon Tube, Fuel Bowl Well (Reservoir) and associated Metering Ports, Jets, Passages and Plungers ALL being CLEAN ... passing Fuel and delivering the Starting Enrichment Fuel to the Combustion Chambers.

If your Enrichment Circuitry isn't operating at FULL Effeciency, ...
Getting the Bike to Start and Run from dead Cold is going to be VERY Difficult.

 

Rick,
I think I've read some of your stuff in Hustler.

 

Not likely, ...

I can't imagine why you'd say that.

 

Enrichment wells not clear as Rick suggested;

and/or

Float Levels. How did you adjust/verify them? You need to use fuel and the clear tube method; dry-setting is only a starting point.

 

mr fitz, i checked the floats using dry and tube meathod and they look great. as for the choke i did remove them and clean inside the ports and all the related components. so i should be good there. my bike doesnt rev up anymore either it was slightly out of sync i suppose the blades were hanging up because of it. but now i have a different problem ill post

 

Rick, I like the post and the way you've written it ;-) Even in my Duthc-English it's funny (and makes me wiser )

 

When I first came-aboard, I tried to get the process mixed with some details that made it fun to read and urge the reader to give the procedure a try.

Back in 2006 I started trying to see if I could just help-out one guy at a time.
It turned-out that "The Old School Method" got to be as much fun for me to write as it was for folks to read and try.

Over 10,000 Posts ago; it was as much fun as it is now.
I really do believe this Forum deserves to be featured in a Bike Mag.
There have been some absolutely amazing stories told on here.

We have people that go out of their way to help others get a bike in shape.
Plus, I just finished-up a set of Carbs sent to me with Parts ordered from our very-own chacal, that got here in good time and made "Getting the parts" the easiest part of the job.

 

Just wanted to post this video to show what this looks like. The left side has not been cleaned or polished. The rest have been done.

Clunk Video

 

I have to agree with what RickCoMatic said above. The biggest part of my decision to buy my XJ, honestly, was this site. All bikes have problems. What distinguishes our XJ's from the others is the best moderated, best manned, most helpful, and most productive website I have EVER SEEN.

I challenge anybody to go to another forum and find posts that are so meaningful combined with "arguments" that come to a real resolution, rather than end in a flame fest.

Sure, there are perennial disagreements, but at least some of them have been resolved since I've been here. For instance, I don't see any car oil being recommended for a motorcycle anymore.

The only recommendation I would make is if someone, anyone, would have more authority over the "FAQ" section. I think some of these resolved disagreements as well as the known issues/solutions should have a permanent, easily accessed, centralized space.

But what do I know, I'm just an EN2.

 

Since writing the article, I've been through a couple of transitions to get the Carb Bores Cleaned and Polished.

1. Cleaning Tool:

Using a 19mm - 12 Point Socket that has been SHARPENED to use -- "Cookie-cutter Style" ... I cut-out 19mm Discs of Gray ScotchBrite Pad and mount 7 Discs on a Dremel Sanding Bit ... using External Star Locking Washers resting on Flat washers to keep the Discs moving on the Bit.

This arrangement, I very nicely trim into a "Ball-shaped" Scrubbing Tool and use to Burnish the Bore free of Oxidation.

2. Polishing:

Using a DREMEL Buffing Wheel and Jewelers Rouge's No.-5 & No.-6, ... apply a Polished finish to the Diaphragm Piston Bore.

 

Something else you can use i am sure it doesn't work quite as well is. Cut a coat hanger bend it over 180 degrees with a pair of pliers so its tight against its self cut a piece of 600 grit sand paper long ways Fold it in half long ways slip it in the coat hanger in the middle of the sandpaper. Put it in a drill get the flaps in the bore and hone it out

 

LOL This really made laugh!!! I think everybody knows how that feels!!

 

Jmemmer, an excellent illustration for folks that really need to see something to "get it". Thanks for the contribution that reinforces many of the positive and true comments in this thread about what makes XJbikes so awesome.

 

Firstly can I say a huge thank you to everyone for the help provided. The bike we have is a 1984 XJ 750 Seca fitted with Hitachi carbs. It exhibited many of the problems described in these hallowed pages. Consequently the valve clearances were adjusted carb bodies polished etc etc. Despite all of this, the bike would not idle. As a last resort we took the mixture adjustment screws out to check them. We found a small amount of white furry deposits, ie corrosion. When I say a small amount, I mean very very small. The carbs were set with a colourtune. Once this had been done, the carbs were balanced, and hey presto, problem solved.
Just for information, the bike would run fine and tick over great as long as the throttle wasnt opened past 3000rpm. Once past 3000 rpm it would not return lower than 3000 rpm. Not an option. We could get it to run superbly but then it would not tick over. Hope this is of some help.